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Noise reduction / stereo upgrade project

Old 01-11-2019, 12:34 AM
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snampro
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Default Noise reduction / stereo upgrade project

My car is a 2016 Z06 3LZ

Just posting this to help anyone out there wanting to rid their car of rattles and road noise and/or improve the OEM stereo with a stage one level improvement, in this case replacing the subwoofers and a few other speakers, but retaining the stock wiring and not adding amplifiers (for now).

I removed the interior panels and carpet in the trunk area. The "how-to" threads in the C7 Tech/Perf forum took the guesswork out of removing all the panels, from the trunk to the doors. I installed "Kilmat" which I ordered from Amazon for about $55, 36 square feet, 80 mil thickness. I also used a roller called "Ogrmar Car Sound Deadener Noise Filter Application Wheel Roller (Black)" for about $6 and that really helped adhere the mat to any surface the roller would fit around. I would post links but I know people don't like to click external links and it is easy to find with a simple search. I found the quality of Kilmat to be on par with Dynamat I previously used, but way cheaper. I put Kilmat everywhere I could, making sure to contact as many rivets or anything that might vibrate that I could find.

TIP: I removed and reinstalled every bolt i saw, and put locktight on all of them to ensure they were never a source of vibration.

TIP: Buy a set of plastic panel removal tools. I used a kit from Amazon called "MATCC Car Panel Removal Tools Kit 18pcs Trim Removal Tool Set Nylon for Car Panel Dash Audio Radio Removal Installer and Repair Pry Tool Kits with Storage Bag" for about $25. This made removing the panels without breaking connectors possible. Seriously, I broke 0 (zero) connectors and fasteners!






I also replaced the 10th speaker, the 8 inch sub at the back of the trunk. I followed the advice of a previous post and went with the "Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 8-inch Shallow-Mount Subwoofer with 600 Watts Max Power" from Amazon for about $70. The quality of the subwoofer, the materials, the size of the magnet, appeared superior to the Bose stock item. The sound was improved. In this case, as with other replacements, the Pioneer fit perfectly, even bolt locations, which made install easy. JL Audio subs I ordered did NOT fit as well, and I stayed with the Pioneer shallow fitment.




I also did all this for the doors. I had the "normal" buzz from both my doors before all this work, but now, even with better subwoofers, the buzz is gone. This time I used two "PIONEER TS-SW2502S4 10-Inch, 1.200 Watts Shallow-Mount Subwoofers" for about $80 each and two "JL Audio C2-350x 3.5-Inch 2 Way Speakers" for $70 for both, one of each in each door. The 10 inch Pioneer subwoofers, again, fit perfectly with bolt holes lining up without a problem, just like the rear. I did try some JL Audio subs, but the bolt pattern was wrong and they interfered with the window when it was retracted. For the 3 1/2 inch woofer/tweeter combo, I went with the JL variety because they fit just fine and that was my preference.

TIP: Seriously, use locktight!

TIP: When wiring the new speakers, take the time to use a multimeter to verify what wire is the Positive and what is the Negative feed. I simply turned on the car, played something on the radio, and tested the voltage with my multimeter. The level varies and is not a massive voltage, so you will need to select the proper DC scale on your multimeter, but it will be obvious which is positive/negative when you do. The alternative is getting a stock wiring diagram. Either way, the colors on the wires do not make it obvious which is which.

Wow, this upgrade made a big difference! The sound improvement is noticeable. The difference between the stock Bose items and these aftermarket speakers is obvious.










I attempted to upgrade the woofers that are just behind the seats near the seatbelts. However, I was unable to find a speaker that fit well in that 5 1/4 inch hole. I will continue to shop for a speaker that fits and update when I do...

I recognize, from other posts, that 100% coverage is not absolutely necessary with sound deadening material. However, I suspect the optimum locations are somewhat impossible to determine through intuition, and at best might be something learned through years of experience I do not possess. So, my approach was to cover what I could, make sure joints and connectors were covered, and make sure the matting was adhered as best I could.

I did add Kilmat under the center console when I did my MGW shifter mod, in addition to the Dynamat included with the MGW kit.

I pulled-up the carpet behind the seats and applied Kilmat there where possible. That was very easy.

I did not remove the seats or floor carpet. I did nothing to the ceiling. I made no attempt to replace speakers in the dash, just didn't wanna bother.

Hope this inspires or helps someone. If nothing else it should save you the cost of ordering multiple speaker sets and sending all but the Pioneers that fit back...
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Old 01-11-2019, 01:07 AM
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Lots of great info. Thanks!
Did the replacement speakers all line up perfectly in pre existing holes?
How many subs does the Vette have?
So, in total you replaced 5 speakers? 2 in each door and one in the trunk?
You think the sound was much better than stock?
Which locktite, blue or red?

Last edited by Matthewstorm; 01-11-2019 at 01:08 AM.
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Old 01-11-2019, 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Matthewstorm View Post
Lots of great info. Thanks!
1 Did the replacement speakers all line up perfectly in pre existing holes?
2 How many subs does the Vette have?
3 So, in total you replaced 5 speakers? 2 in each door and one in the trunk?
4 You think the sound was much better than stock?
5 Which locktite, blue or red?
1. Yes, all the speakers I replaced lined up with existing holes perfectly.

2. The 3LZ/3LT with the 10-speaker Bose system has a 10 inch subwoofer in each door and an 8 inch subwoofer in the back above the trunk electronics. The rest of the speakers are smaller woofers carrying the mid and treble frequencies.

3. Yes, I replaced 5 (five) total. If I ever get into the dash I will probably give those a look, and I plan to find something that fits in the 5 1/4 inch spots just behind the driver's and passenger's heads.

4. I do think the sound is much better. I suspect a lot of that is the sound deadening removing unwanted vibes and buzz, but I also know the upgraded subs make a big difference. Stock speakers are always a cost / weight / performance compromise.

5. Depends on what bolt or nut. Anything I thought I might remove in the future I used blue. Anything I suspected I would never remove again, I used red. Would be fine just to use blue through the entire thing.
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Old 01-11-2019, 01:35 AM
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Would I have the same speaker setup in my 2LT Z51 as you?
Thanks again for the info. Great stuff.
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Old 01-11-2019, 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Matthewstorm View Post
Would I have the same speaker setup in my 2LT Z51 as you?
Thanks again for the info. Great stuff.
I believe you would have 9 speakers, meaning you don't have the single 8 inch sub at the back. So, that would save you the trouble/cost of that speaker...

(Someone correct me if I am wrong, please!)


I was wrong, 2LT has the same 10 speakers as 3LT/3LZ (see below)

Last edited by snampro; 01-11-2019 at 04:40 PM. Reason: error correction for clarity
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Old 01-11-2019, 01:41 AM
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I do have the Premium Sound Package. Just not sure about my speaker count, but I think it's 10.
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Old 01-11-2019, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Matthewstorm View Post
I do have the Premium Sound Package. Just not sure about my speaker count, but I think it's 10.
ah, then perhaps you do have the same speaker layout. It is pretty easy to pull the plastic out of the back of the car to take a look...
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Old 01-11-2019, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by snampro View Post
I believe you would have 9 speakers, meaning you don't have the single 8 inch sub at the back. So, that would save you the trouble/cost of that speaker...(Someone correct me if I am wrong, please!)
2LT/Z and 3LT/Z infotainment are identical. 3LT/Z adds NAV and PDR as standard. Those are optional on 2LT/Z.
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Old 01-11-2019, 12:45 PM
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Does the stock amp have enough power to drive those speakers? What is the resistance of the Pioneer speakers vs the factory?
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Old 01-11-2019, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by subieworx View Post
Does the stock amp have enough power to drive those speakers? What is the resistance of the Pioneer speakers vs the factory?
Likely no but apparently the OP is happy.

Good info on what fits and nice job on the sound deadening. Did you seal the port on the sub enclosure? Did you replace the dash tweeters?

As I've posted multiple times if you really want to improve things get rid of the Bose amp as it cuts bass as you turn up the volume in effort to protect the crappy factory speakers.
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Old 01-11-2019, 04:24 PM
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It's all magic to me. I just don't have the ***** to tear apart my car.
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Old 01-11-2019, 04:50 PM
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Speaker specs are on the spec sheets for each. Since I didn't add amps, I didn't "match" resistance, if that makes sense.

The stock amps DEFINITELY do not have enough power to drive these new speakers, but that means these speakers will not be "maxed out" by the current system.

This is just the first step, Stage 1. As JMII stated and has documented before, the Bose amp needs to go, and I plan to install one two-way or two amps to run the door 10 inch subs, I haven't worked out the details there yet. There is room in the doors for small amps, but then I have to run new power lines, or I could locate the amp somewhere else, but would need to run new speaker leads... However that works out, new amps would include updated wiring. I just wanted to replace what I determined were "problem" speakers (fuzz, distortion, etc.) that are good candidates for future upgrades, and replace them without modification to the structure of the car, meaning they fit in the stock locations. The sound is improved somewhat, but will be dramatically improved with the addition of new amplifiers in the future...

Here are some other threads including amp replacedment:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...to-finish.html

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...mendation.html

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...iy-long-2.html

Good info from JMII: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...acement-2.html

JMII: Was there a thread of yours I missed where you detail the Bose amp replacement? I thought I saw one, but I can't find it right now...

Side note: I believe the front right 10 inch subwoofer was damaged in some manner, either fatigue or something else. Just replacing that single speaker changed the sound in the car.

JMII: I did not seal the stock 8 inch subwoofer box.

Last edited by snampro; 01-11-2019 at 04:58 PM. Reason: added links
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Old 01-11-2019, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by snampro View Post
My car is a 2016 Z06 3LZ
Just posting this to help anyone out there wanting to rid their car of rattles and road noise and/or improve the OEM stereo with a stage one level improvement, in this case replacing the subwoofers and a few other speakers, but retaining the stock wiring and not adding amplifiers (for now).
I removed the interior panels and carpet in the trunk area. The "how-to" threads in the C7 Tech/Perf forum took the guesswork out of removing all the panels, from the trunk to the doors. I installed "Kilmat" which I ordered from Amazon for about $55, 36 square feet, 80 mil thickness. I also used a roller called "Ogrmar Car Sound Deadener Noise Filter Application Wheel Roller (Black)" for about $6 and that really helped adhere the mat to any surface the roller would fit around. I would post links but I know people don't like to click external links and it is easy to find with a simple search. I found the quality of Kilmat to be on par with Dynamat I previously used, but way cheaper. I put Kilmat everywhere I could, making sure to contact as many rivets or anything that might vibrate that I could find.
TIP: I removed and reinstalled every bolt i saw, and put locktight on all of them to ensure they were never a source of vibration.
TIP: Buy a set of plastic panel removal tools. I used a kit from Amazon called "MATCC Car Panel Removal Tools Kit 18pcs Trim Removal Tool Set Nylon for Car Panel Dash Audio Radio Removal Installer and Repair Pry Tool Kits with Storage Bag" for about $25. This made removing the panels without breaking connectors possible. Seriously, I broke 0 (zero) connectors and fasteners!
I also replaced the 10th speaker, the 8 inch sub at the back of the trunk. I followed the advice of a previous post and went with the "Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 8-inch Shallow-Mount Subwoofer with 600 Watts Max Power" from Amazon for about $70. The quality of the subwoofer, the materials, the size of the magnet, appeared superior to the Bose stock item. The sound was improved. In this case, as with other replacements, the Pioneer fit perfectly, even bolt locations, which made install easy. JL Audio subs I ordered did NOT fit as well, and I stayed with the Pioneer shallow fitment.
I also did all this for the doors. I had the "normal" buzz from both my doors before all this work, but now, even with better subwoofers, the buzz is gone. This time I used two "PIONEER TS-SW2502S4 10-Inch, 1.200 Watts Shallow-Mount Subwoofers" for about $80 each and two "JL Audio C2-350x 3.5-Inch 2 Way Speakers" for $70 for both, one of each in each door. The 10 inch Pioneer subwoofers, again, fit perfectly with bolt holes lining up without a problem, just like the rear. I did try some JL Audio subs, but the bolt pattern was wrong and they interfered with the window when it was retracted. For the 3 1/2 inch woofer/tweeter combo, I went with the JL variety because they fit just fine and that was my preference.
TIP: Seriously, use locktight!
TIP: When wiring the new speakers, take the time to use a multimeter to verify what wire is the Positive and what is the Negative feed. I simply turned on the car, played something on the radio, and tested the voltage with my multimeter. The level varies and is not a massive voltage, so you will need to select the proper DC scale on your multimeter, but it will be obvious which is positive/negative when you do. The alternative is getting a stock wiring diagram. Either way, the colors on the wires do not make it obvious which is which.
Wow, this upgrade made a big difference! The sound improvement is noticeable. The difference between the stock Bose items and these aftermarket speakers is obvious.
I attempted to upgrade the woofers that are just behind the seats near the seatbelts. However, I was unable to find a speaker that fit well in that 5 1/4 inch hole. I will continue to shop for a speaker that fits and update when I do...
I recognize, from other posts, that 100% coverage is not absolutely necessary with sound deadening material. However, I suspect the optimum locations are somewhat impossible to determine through intuition, and at best might be something learned through years of experience I do not possess. So, my approach was to cover what I could, make sure joints and connectors were covered, and make sure the matting was adhered as best I could.
I did add Kilmat under the center console when I did my MGW shifter mod, in addition to the Dynamat included with the MGW kit.
I pulled-up the carpet behind the seats and applied Kilmat there where possible. That was very easy.
I did not remove the seats or floor carpet. I did nothing to the ceiling. I made no attempt to replace speakers in the dash, just didn't wanna bother.
Hope this inspires or helps someone. If nothing else it should save you the cost of ordering multiple speaker sets and sending all but the Pioneers that fit back...
Did you have to disconnect your noise cancelling mic?
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Old 01-11-2019, 06:15 PM
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As a former installer from three decades ago commercially and doing the odd install for others over the years I always tried to
get others to use dynamat or some other version, it makes a HUGE difference just with background noise and allows lower
voltage from preamp/head units to amps, well done sir and good advice shared by your efforts!

Last edited by dbirdhouse1; 01-11-2019 at 06:16 PM.
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Old 01-11-2019, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by dbirdhouse1 View Post
As a former installer from three decades ago commercially and doing the odd install for others over the years I always tried to
get others to use dynamat or some other version, it makes a HUGE difference just with background noise and allows lower
voltage from preamp/head units to amps, well done sir and good advice shared by your efforts!
thanks man! I've done maybe 5 installs, others much more involved speaker/amp wise than this, but this is the first time I used matting. I'm really impressed with how it changes the sound in the car.
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Old 01-11-2019, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by snampro View Post
JMII: I did not seal the stock 8 inch subwoofer box.

JMII: Was there a thread of yours I missed where you detail the Bose amp replacement? I thought I saw one, but I can't find it right now.
Sealing the sub box would help. I'm not sure anyone has figured out its port frequency. I'd have to review the specs on the sub to be sure but sealed is normally easy, safer and produces more reliable results as the low frequency roll off is better controlled. A sealed system plays lower (deeper), smoother bass but you will lose output volume. A ported system is louder, but only at the frequency for which is tuned, all frequencies below that (true sub bass) could damage the sub!

Replacing the amp is a bit tricky just because of all the decisions required. It depends on your goals for the system, how much power you want, where do you want to send that power and that fact the different OEM interface units provide different output configurations.
One of the following OEM units is required to add any amp, so you need to start here:
AX-DSP-MOST1
NAV-TV M650-GM
PAC AP4-GM61

These all get rid of Bose processing nonsense (auto EQ, DSP, noise cancelling, etc, etc) leaving you with a nice clean audio signal to send to an aftermarket amp of your choosing.

Now you technically have 8 channels to amplify based on this diagram:


Door mid X 2
Door woofer & dash tweeter X 2 (yes they are apparently on the same circuit - very annoying, but you could wire the tweeters separately)
Center dash mid X 1
Rear speakers X 2
Subwoofer X 1 (factory is dual voice coil so the diagram shows this as TWO speakers but its really just one)

Personally I have no need for rear speakers as they just kill the sound stage and my cargo cover never complaints about the lack of vocals back there. A properly imaged and staged system doesn't need a center channel either. So that leaves you with 5 true channels. You might want to power them all but then you need to make sure the OEM interface you get provides a signal for each and a way to control them via the head unit. If I had to pick a channel to add it would be the center before the rears.

Its hard to beat the value of the NXV JDA 900.5 as a powerful, cheap and compact 5 channel unit - I would configure it follows:
115w @ 2 ohms X 2 (stereo front door woofer + dash tweeter)
115w @ 2 ohms X 2 (stereo door mids)
440w @ 2 ohms X 1 (mono subwoofer)

Just not sure where in the car you could hide the amp. Will it still fit in the rear hatch? Maybe under the passenger seat?

Last edited by JMII; 01-11-2019 at 06:59 PM.
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:22 PM
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Nice job, I bet it sounds great.
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Old 01-12-2019, 09:39 AM
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Thank you OP for this awesome thread, best audio thread in awhile.

I'm considering a stereo mod this year and very much like the idea of doing in it stages like snampro. I have had 3 custom stereo jobs in my 3 previous vehicles, using mostly Alpine, Eclipse, and Focal products, and it always cost me a pretty penny (~$4k per job). I can't foresee completing the project without help, but doing door speakers and Dynamat myself, and then having a stereo shop add some amps and dash speakers sounds like a money saving plan.

Questions:

1 - How did OP decide on the PIONEER TS-SW2502S4 for his 10" sub solution? I am speculating that the primary reason is the bolt pattern. There are at least 7 other 10" shallow subs with similar bolt pattern:

Rockford Fosgate 10" R2D4-10
Kicker CVT124
Kicker 43CWRT101
Kicker 43CWRT102
JL Audio 10W0V3-4
Diamond Audio DMD104SH
Focal Performance P25FS

2- Regarding the PIONEER TS-SW2502S4, I found a review that stated the following (as a negative):

"Though it’s a shallow model, some people may have issues with the fit of this subwoofer in their car, as the standard box hole for a subwoofer will be 9 and 1/8 inches—while the sub itself is actually and 9 ¾ inches in dimension. This is easily modified with a jigsaw, meaning it should be no sweat for the average person to set up. A preloaded box is also another good option that negates this issue."

Did OP need to perform any special mod to fit this subwoofer given the dimensions described above?

3 - Did OP use JL Audio C2-350x for the 2 ways? Did you look at any other 3.5s?
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Old 01-12-2019, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 2016C7.paul View Post
Thank you OP for this awesome thread, best audio thread in awhile.

I'm considering a stereo mod this year and very much like the idea of doing in it stages like snampro. I have had 3 custom stereo jobs in my 3 previous vehicles, using mostly Alpine, Eclipse, and Focal products, and it always cost me a pretty penny (~$4k per job). I can't foresee completing the project without help, but doing door speakers and Dynamat myself, and then having a stereo shop add some amps and dash speakers sounds like a money saving plan.

Questions:

1 - How did OP decide on the PIONEER TS-SW2502S4 for his 10" sub solution? I am speculating that the primary reason is the bolt pattern. There are at least 7 other 10" shallow subs with similar bolt pattern:

Rockford Fosgate 10" R2D4-10
Kicker CVT124
Kicker 43CWRT101
Kicker 43CWRT102
JL Audio 10W0V3-4
Diamond Audio DMD104SH
Focal Performance P25FS

2- Regarding the PIONEER TS-SW2502S4, I found a review that stated the following (as a negative):

"Though it’s a shallow model, some people may have issues with the fit of this subwoofer in their car, as the standard box hole for a subwoofer will be 9 and 1/8 inches—while the sub itself is actually and 9 ¾ inches in dimension. This is easily modified with a jigsaw, meaning it should be no sweat for the average person to set up. A preloaded box is also another good option that negates this issue."

Did OP need to perform any special mod to fit this subwoofer given the dimensions described above?

3 - Did OP use JL Audio C2-350x for the 2 ways? Did you look at any other 3.5s?
1. I went with the 10 inch Pioneers after considering others. I even orders some JL 10s and found they were too small. The Pioneer 10s, like the 8, lined up perfectly. The shallow JL 10s were significantly more expensive, which honestly wasn't a problem, but again, the speakers were too small and the mount holes did not line up. I didn't try all the ones you listed. If you do, make sure to let everyone know the outcome.

2. The larger size of the Pioneer is why it fits, others did not line up and would require fab. I considered several different 10s and even ordered a set of JLs, but I found that only the Pioneer 10s har mounting holes that fit the car and did not require an adapter. The JL shallow 10s were considerably more expensive, which I didn't really care about, but again, they did not line up with the stock mounting holes.

2. The larger size of the Pioneer 10s is why it fit in the car. Others were too small and would require fab work I didn't want to deal with on principle. I wanted this to look as stock as possible, just sound better.

3. I actually just ordered the JL coaxial 3.5 inchers first, and when they fit, just went with them.
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Old 01-12-2019, 10:03 PM
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Did you have to disable your noise cancelling mic?
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