M7 Clutch noise in neutral
01-14-2019, 12:42 PM
#23
Pro
I agree that it something to do with the driveshaft or bearings in the torque tube, as the noise is heard when the clutch is released and spinning the driveshaft. In this state there is no load on the throw out bearing and it would not be spinning at engine RPM...just floating long.
My suspicion would be a bent driveshaft within the torque tube or a hurt steady (middle) bearing. Most likely caused when the engine stalled.
I had to replace the driveshaft in my 2005 C6 and the retail price at the time (6-7 years ago) was $2,500 Canadian. US pricing would be a lot less
My suspicion would be a bent driveshaft within the torque tube or a hurt steady (middle) bearing. Most likely caused when the engine stalled.
I had to replace the driveshaft in my 2005 C6 and the retail price at the time (6-7 years ago) was $2,500 Canadian. US pricing would be a lot less
01-14-2019, 12:51 PM
#24
Le Mans Master
Thanks, it's still under warranty, hopefully dealer will cover it.
Yeah I kept hearing with stock tires you can drag race it all day the tranny is real strong, then again I was doing burnouts maybe it's kind of different. I found roads that are kind of slippery with some dirt/debris etc. Temp was around 45F so it was pretty slippery. Slipped the clutch never dumped it but wasn't too familiar on how to do stationary burnouts so maybe technique was wrong or something
But if it's hurt, can I still drive it and just take it easy? At least drive it to the dealer no need to tow it right?
I actually got some drag radials for the drag strip just recently, was getting ready for the drag strip ( do you really need some water in the rear wheels for burnouts? With stock tires)
I never dumped it, I mentioned I slipped it twice but maybe rpm was too high. Temp was around 45F and I found roads that are kind of slippery, then again I was probably doing it too much, should have done it way less? But I kept hearing the tranny is real strong you can drag race it all day. Well next time I guess I will take it easy, hopefully the warranty covers it.
All the burnouts were 2 to 5 sec ish and avg about a car and half length. That's not too harsh on the car is it? Not 30 sec burnout then again I am not too familiar with it, never really done it before except wanting to try it out at the drag strip and you need proper burnouts.
Anyone know how long will it take dealer to fix it? Probably awhile huh and cost will probably be high too if warranty doesn't cover it.
I mean I was trying to do stationary burnouts (hold the car in place and not rolling burnout since that's what you need at drag strip with drag radials, I can always do rolling burnouts but not stationary burnouts, and I didn't have DR I had MPSS stock tires) So yeah I hit the brakes AFTER the rear tires broke loose.
The 2 times that I stalled it I slipped the clutch at 2500rpm, then right away I put the left foot on the brake pedal, I think I pressed it too hard so the rpm kept going down THEN car stalled out. I guess I need to launch at a higher rpm, or after tires broke loose get the rpm higher then press the brake pedal? Got a cheaper FWD and wanted to practice stationary burnout in it to get a feel of it, but FWD it's hard to get the front tires to break loose I heard. So it won't make much sense, oh well.
Yeah I kept hearing with stock tires you can drag race it all day the tranny is real strong, then again I was doing burnouts maybe it's kind of different. I found roads that are kind of slippery with some dirt/debris etc. Temp was around 45F so it was pretty slippery. Slipped the clutch never dumped it but wasn't too familiar on how to do stationary burnouts so maybe technique was wrong or something
But if it's hurt, can I still drive it and just take it easy? At least drive it to the dealer no need to tow it right?
I actually got some drag radials for the drag strip just recently, was getting ready for the drag strip
( do you really need some water in the rear wheels for burnouts? With stock tires)I never dumped it, I mentioned I slipped it twice but maybe rpm was too high. Temp was around 45F and I found roads that are kind of slippery, then again I was probably doing it too much, should have done it way less? But I kept hearing the tranny is real strong you can drag race it all day. Well next time I guess I will take it easy, hopefully the warranty covers it.
All the burnouts were 2 to 5 sec ish and avg about a car and half length. That's not too harsh on the car is it? Not 30 sec burnout then again I am not too familiar with it, never really done it before except wanting to try it out at the drag strip and you need proper burnouts.
Anyone know how long will it take dealer to fix it? Probably awhile huh
and cost will probably be high too if warranty doesn't cover it. I mean I was trying to do stationary burnouts (hold the car in place and not rolling burnout since that's what you need at drag strip with drag radials, I can always do rolling burnouts but not stationary burnouts, and I didn't have DR I had MPSS stock tires) So yeah I hit the brakes AFTER the rear tires broke loose.
The 2 times that I stalled it I slipped the clutch at 2500rpm, then right away I put the left foot on the brake pedal, I think I pressed it too hard so the rpm kept going down THEN car stalled out. I guess I need to launch at a higher rpm, or after tires broke loose get the rpm higher then press the brake pedal? Got a cheaper FWD and wanted to practice stationary burnout in it to get a feel of it, but FWD it's hard to get the front tires to break loose I heard. So it won't make much sense, oh well.
the Hellcat comes with one as an option from the factory.
01-14-2019, 01:02 PM
#25
Safety Car
Member Since: Feb 2016
Location: Bainbridge Island WA
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Hopefully they won't. If this does not fall under to definition of abuse I don't know what would. Although the warranty does not specifically say "burn outs" I'm pretty sure that counts as abuse, and now that it is public in great detail, there is no doubt what caused the noise problem in the first place.
What is not covered:...Misuse of the vehicle such as driving over curbs, overloading, racing, or other competition. Proper vehicle use is covered in the owner's manual.
Last edited by mschuyler; 01-14-2019 at 01:02 PM.
01-15-2019, 02:21 PM
#26
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
What's the cost for just labor alone? To look at what's wrong with the tranny. Let's say not at the dealer but a local corvette shop.
Googled TR6070 real quick and it looks like used for 2k to 2500. But I think the gearing for Z06 is different than other TR6070? Which TR6070 do I need to get or any TR6070 will do. (Asking for later too, might have the need to buy the whole tranny later depending on what I want to do)
Googled TR6070 real quick and it looks like used for 2k to 2500. But I think the gearing for Z06 is different than other TR6070? Which TR6070 do I need to get or any TR6070 will do. (Asking for later too, might have the need to buy the whole tranny later depending on what I want to do)
01-15-2019, 03:22 PM
#27
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
This IS my last response. Stationery in my dictionary is “NOT MOVING”. If you have the brakes forcefully applied the wheels cannot spin (no burnout). This is how A8s utilize “Launch Control” by standing on the brakes while going WOT till RPM stabilizes, then releasing brakes. I’ve watched too many 1/4 mile burnouts. The manual folks simply enter the burnout “water box”, release clutch while applying power thru the 40-60’ area then stop & either back up or pull forward to stage depending where the car is. The only way to TRULY do a STATIONARY burnout is as other poster said, use a line lock which keeps rear brakes from engaging & can even be “toggled” on & off. You don’t release the clutch then jump on the brakes to “hold” the car stationary. Have you watched “pros” doing burnouts with manuals? They are spinning the tires while moving forward, not stationary (unless using a line lock). Good luck & have fun at the track!
I see that's exactly what I wanted to know, to do a M7 burnout that the car isn't moving at all but without line lock installed. I guess it can't be done and only rolling burnouts are possible with M7.
So M7 without line lock (rolling burnout) with drag radial is that good enough to heat up the tires? Or really need line lock for a proper burnout. Tired of keep spending money on everything and every upgrade, would like to avoid it if possible.
devnull or anyone?
Last edited by okaythen; 01-15-2019 at 03:22 PM.
01-15-2019, 07:19 PM
#28
Race Director
Probably throw out bearing. Might also be the pilot bearing / bushing. Considered a wear item generally and not covered under warranty. In my case on my old C6 the dealer considered it a manufacturer defect. If it is burned I doubt it will be covered.
If not under warranty sounds like you need to have a heavier pressure plate and disc put in and replace or machine the flywheel if you are going to beat on it hard.
Labor cost would have been close to 2500 bucks. Time to repair was one week.
If not under warranty sounds like you need to have a heavier pressure plate and disc put in and replace or machine the flywheel if you are going to beat on it hard.
Labor cost would have been close to 2500 bucks. Time to repair was one week.
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okaythen (01-18-2019)
01-15-2019, 11:28 PM
#29
I don't know why people are telling you that you can't do a stationary burnout with a manual transmission. You most certainly can, without a line lock. I've done it on every rear wheel drive manual transmission I've owned. Maybe I'm just a burnout God 
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okaythen (01-18-2019)
01-16-2019, 10:45 AM
#30
Safety Car
Exactly, of course you can. You have to dump the clutch and then stand on the brakes. It can be done but it wears out your rear brakes faster. Also, this sort of burnout won't hurt your clutch if done properly. The OP actually failed at doing burnouts because he slipped the clutch too much and over heated it. He likely damaged the throwot bearing and pressure plate. OP will need to replace the entire assembly and learn how to not damage the clutch doing burnouts. Rather expensive lesson to learn......
01-16-2019, 11:37 AM
#31
Easy answer, just stop doing this............................
01-16-2019, 01:00 PM
#32
Sounds like the throw out bearing to me bud, see how it runs over the next few days.
You can do stationary burnouts with a manual, it’s a matter of timing (getting off the clutch and into the brakes fast enough but not too hard). Sound to me like you just nailed the brakes too hard. Try it in a wet surface for practice first.
if you want to drag race, look into a line lock!
You can do stationary burnouts with a manual, it’s a matter of timing (getting off the clutch and into the brakes fast enough but not too hard). Sound to me like you just nailed the brakes too hard. Try it in a wet surface for practice first.
if you want to drag race, look into a line lock!
Should be covered under warranty - I wouldn't go into much detail on how all this happened: lol:
01-16-2019, 02:42 PM
#33
Le Mans Master
Well I was doing some burnouts and then I hear some noise in neutral, in N with clutch pressed in the noise will go away, but with clutch out and in N there will be some noise. Hard to describe the noise it sounds kinda of like belts running in the engine and a tiny bit of squeaking noise. You have to listen for it it's not very obvious, but you can hear it even in track mode for exhaust mode. Car seems to drive fine so far. Did I break something?
Burnout I was slipping the clutch at 2500 to 3k rpm, 2017 Z06 M7 with 5500 miles.
I did have 2 failed burnouts, was doing stationary burnout and pressed brake too hard resulted rpm drop and stalled the engine. Did that twice and maybe after that I started hearing the noise. Also the whole night I was practicing burnout for about 80 min, I would do one, drive around for 5 to 8 min then do another one. I can do rolling burnout but not stationary burnout so I was practicing stationary burnouts the whole time. Maybe I messed up something? I just slip the clutch at 2500 to 3k rpm, then brake on the brake pedal maybe 50% down to try to hold the car down. Burnouts were all pretty short maybe 2 to 4 seconds, can't hold the car in place yet.
Thanks for your help.
Burnout I was slipping the clutch at 2500 to 3k rpm, 2017 Z06 M7 with 5500 miles.
I did have 2 failed burnouts, was doing stationary burnout and pressed brake too hard resulted rpm drop and stalled the engine. Did that twice and maybe after that I started hearing the noise. Also the whole night I was practicing burnout for about 80 min, I would do one, drive around for 5 to 8 min then do another one. I can do rolling burnout but not stationary burnout so I was practicing stationary burnouts the whole time. Maybe I messed up something? I just slip the clutch at 2500 to 3k rpm, then brake on the brake pedal maybe 50% down to try to hold the car down. Burnouts were all pretty short maybe 2 to 4 seconds, can't hold the car in place yet.
Thanks for your help.