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M7 Clutch noise in neutral

 
Old 01-13-2019, 01:37 PM
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okaythen
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Default M7 Clutch noise in neutral

Well I was doing some burnouts and then I hear some noise in neutral, in N with clutch pressed in the noise will go away, but with clutch out and in N there will be some noise. Hard to describe the noise it sounds kinda of like belts running in the engine and a tiny bit of squeaking noise. You have to listen for it it's not very obvious, but you can hear it even in track mode for exhaust mode. Car seems to drive fine so far. Did I break something?

Burnout I was slipping the clutch at 2500 to 3k rpm, 2017 Z06 M7 with 5500 miles.

I did have 2 failed burnouts, was doing stationary burnout and pressed brake too hard resulted rpm drop and stalled the engine. Did that twice and maybe after that I started hearing the noise. Also the whole night I was practicing burnout for about 80 min, I would do one, drive around for 5 to 8 min then do another one. I can do rolling burnout but not stationary burnout so I was practicing stationary burnouts the whole time. Maybe I messed up something? I just slip the clutch at 2500 to 3k rpm, then brake on the brake pedal maybe 50% down to try to hold the car down. Burnouts were all pretty short maybe 2 to 4 seconds, can't hold the car in place yet.

Thanks for your help.

Last edited by okaythen; 01-13-2019 at 01:42 PM.
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Old 01-13-2019, 03:06 PM
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RonC7
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The only thing that changes in neutral with an M7 is whether the torque tube and transmission input shaft are spinning. Clutch to the floor (disengaged) - torque tube and input shaft do not turn. Clutch up (engaged) - torque tube and input shaft spin.

Good luck!

Ron

Last edited by RonC7; 01-13-2019 at 03:08 PM.
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Old 01-13-2019, 06:24 PM
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Certainly sounds like you hurt the clutch. You won't be able to tell until you take it apart. Might as well buy a new clutch, slave, and throw out bearing and start getting ready for a clutch swap.
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Old 01-13-2019, 08:05 PM
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You worked the clutch hard no doubt but my guess is that its still good.
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Old 01-13-2019, 08:07 PM
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80 minutes of dumping your clutch..,wow, just wow!
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Old 01-13-2019, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by TXshaggy View Post
80 minutes of dumping your clutch..,wow, just wow!
This is why I bought new...
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Old 01-13-2019, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by okaythen View Post
Well I was doing some burnouts and then I hear some noise in neutral, in N with clutch pressed in the noise will go away, but with clutch out and in N there will be some noise. Hard to describe the noise it sounds kinda of like belts running in the engine and a tiny bit of squeaking noise. You have to listen for it it's not very obvious, but you can hear it even in track mode for exhaust mode. Car seems to drive fine so far. Did I break something?

Burnout I was slipping the clutch at 2500 to 3k rpm, 2017 Z06 M7 with 5500 miles.

I did have 2 failed burnouts, was doing stationary burnout and pressed brake too hard resulted rpm drop and stalled the engine. Did that twice and maybe after that I started hearing the noise. Also the whole night I was practicing burnout for about 80 min, I would do one, drive around for 5 to 8 min then do another one. I can do rolling burnout but not stationary burnout so I was practicing stationary burnouts the whole time. Maybe I messed up something? I just slip the clutch at 2500 to 3k rpm, then brake on the brake pedal maybe 50% down to try to hold the car down. Burnouts were all pretty short maybe 2 to 4 seconds, can't hold the car in place yet.

Thanks for your help.
Maybe I’m missing something. What do you mean by saying you’re holding the car with the brakes. That’s how you launch the A8 not a M7 unless you mean you hit the brakes AFTER the car burns out 20-30 yds & stall it cause you don’t depress the clutch. Please more clear description of exactly how you do this. Thanks PS: Especially the last 7 words “can’t hold the car in place yet”.

Last edited by madrob2020; 01-13-2019 at 09:44 PM.
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Old 01-13-2019, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by RonC7 View Post
The only thing that changes in neutral with an M7 is whether the torque tube and transmission input shaft are spinning. Clutch to the floor (disengaged) - torque tube and input shaft do not turn. Clutch up (engaged) - torque tube and input shaft spin.

Good luck!

Ron
Thanks, it's still under warranty, hopefully dealer will cover it.
Originally Posted by eseibel67 View Post
You worked the clutch hard no doubt but my guess is that its still good.
Yeah I kept hearing with stock tires you can drag race it all day the tranny is real strong, then again I was doing burnouts maybe it's kind of different. I found roads that are kind of slippery with some dirt/debris etc. Temp was around 45F so it was pretty slippery. Slipped the clutch never dumped it but wasn't too familiar on how to do stationary burnouts so maybe technique was wrong or something

But if it's hurt, can I still drive it and just take it easy? At least drive it to the dealer no need to tow it right?

I actually got some drag radials for the drag strip just recently, was getting ready for the drag strip ( do you really need some water in the rear wheels for burnouts? With stock tires)

Originally Posted by TXshaggy View Post
80 minutes of dumping your clutch..,wow, just wow!
I never dumped it, I mentioned I slipped it twice but maybe rpm was too high. Temp was around 45F and I found roads that are kind of slippery, then again I was probably doing it too much, should have done it way less? But I kept hearing the tranny is real strong you can drag race it all day. Well next time I guess I will take it easy, hopefully the warranty covers it.

All the burnouts were 2 to 5 sec ish and avg about a car and half length. That's not too harsh on the car is it? Not 30 sec burnout then again I am not too familiar with it, never really done it before except wanting to try it out at the drag strip and you need proper burnouts.

Anyone know how long will it take dealer to fix it? Probably awhile huh and cost will probably be high too if warranty doesn't cover it.



Originally Posted by madrob2020 View Post

Maybe I’m missing something. What do you mean by saying you’re holding the car with the brakes. That’s how you launch the A8 not a M7 unless you mean you hit the brakes AFTER the car burns out 20-30 yds & stall it cause you don’t depress the clutch. Please more clear description of exactly how you do this. Thanks PS: Especially the last 7 words “can’t hold the car in place yet”.
I mean I was trying to do stationary burnouts (hold the car in place and not rolling burnout since that's what you need at drag strip with drag radials, I can always do rolling burnouts but not stationary burnouts, and I didn't have DR I had MPSS stock tires) So yeah I hit the brakes AFTER the rear tires broke loose.

The 2 times that I stalled it I slipped the clutch at 2500rpm, then right away I put the left foot on the brake pedal, I think I pressed it too hard so the rpm kept going down THEN car stalled out. I guess I need to launch at a higher rpm, or after tires broke loose get the rpm higher then press the brake pedal? Got a cheaper FWD and wanted to practice stationary burnout in it to get a feel of it, but FWD it's hard to get the front tires to break loose I heard. So it won't make much sense, oh well.
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Old 01-13-2019, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by okaythen View Post














The 2 times that I stalled it I slipped the clutch at 2500rpm, then right away I put the left foot on the brake pedal, I think I pressed it too hard so the rpm kept going down THEN car stalled out. I guess I need to launch at a higher rpm, or after tires broke loose get the rpm higher then press the brake pedal? Got a cheaper FWD and wanted to practice stationary burnout in it to get a feel of it, but FWD it's hard to get the front tires to break loose I heard. So it won't make much sense, oh well.
No offense, but you need to use LEFT foot to depress clutch & RIGHT foot to apply brakes if you simply want to stop the car after a burnout. The clutch has to be depressed or you will nearly always stall. Colder temps make it much easier to do burnouts since OE tires will not hook up well cooler the temps. At, as you said, 45* they would have a heckava time NOT doing a burnout (actually just breaking loose). Make sure TC is fully defeated when doing these burnouts also.
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Old 01-13-2019, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by madrob2020 View Post
No offense, but you need to use LEFT foot to depress clutch & RIGHT foot to apply brakes if you simply want to stop the car after a burnout. The clutch has to be depressed or you will nearly always stall. Colder temps make it much easier to do burnouts since OE tires will not hook up well cooler the temps. At, as you said, 45* they would have a heckava time NOT doing a burnout (actually just breaking loose). Make sure TC is fully defeated when doing these burnouts also.
Yeah that's what I did when I want to stop the car, I understand that completely. But I was saying I want to do stationary burnout (hold the car in place) and right after you release the clutch you need to move your left foot to the brake pedal so car stays in place, and use right foot to increase/decrease rpm. Yeah I understand what you are saying thanks for your reply!
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Old 01-13-2019, 10:57 PM
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I’ll let someone else ‘splain this who is a 1/4 miler & knows how you do the prep “burnout” with a M7. I’m probably wrong but I don’t think you do a stationery burnout with a M7.

Last edited by madrob2020; 01-13-2019 at 10:58 PM.
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Old 01-13-2019, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by madrob2020 View Post
I’ll let someone else ‘splain this who is a 1/4 miler & knows how you do the prep “burnout” with a M7. I’m probably wrong but I don’t think you do a stationery burnout with a M7.
So M7 you don't and can't do a stationary burnout? It will always be rolling burnout? Open to suggestions/tips I am still learning/beginner, hence the “can’t hold the car in place yet” "practicing" etc.

I can stop the car after or during a burnout no problem, I was asking about stationary burnout techniques. I stalled it because I think my burnout technique was bad, for regular driving I rarely stall the car.

Well I don't really care about all those that much, right now I need to figure out and take care of this noise that's my #1 worry. Thanks for the reply/help.
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Old 01-13-2019, 11:51 PM
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Sounds like the throw out bearing to me bud, see how it runs over the next few days.

You can do stationary burnouts with a manual, it’s a matter of timing (getting off the clutch and into the brakes fast enough but not too hard). Sound to me like you just nailed the brakes too hard. Try it in a wet surface for practice first.

if you want to drag race, look into a line lock!
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Old 01-14-2019, 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by devnull View Post
Sounds like the throw out bearing to me bud, see how it runs over the next few days.

You can do stationary burnouts with a manual, it’s a matter of timing (getting off the clutch and into the brakes fast enough but not too hard). Sound to me like you just nailed the brakes too hard. Try it in a wet surface for practice first.

if you want to drag race, look into a line lock!
Thanks for the reply, yeah that's what I thought about stationary burnout, will drive it some more and see how it goes.

How hard should you nail the brakes? like 50% down or just have to do it and see by feels.


Searched for line lock and that sounds like a good idea, RSD seems like the best one out there will take a look at it. What would shops charge to install it. Any error codes like stability light or anything I should look out for. One post said you need to bleed the ABS?

Rolling burnout won't work at the drag strip right? With drag radials you need at least 4,5 seconds to heat it up real good. Actually I just want to see how fast I can get it to go with drag radials, then maybe visit drag strip once a month or once every 2 months and take it easy on it. So was I too harsh on the car and did too many burnouts, just practice like a handful and call it a day?

Last edited by okaythen; 01-14-2019 at 03:08 AM.
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Old 01-14-2019, 10:16 AM
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I am a huge fan of a manual transmission for a toy car. Except if your fun is drag racing, in which case manual is terrible and and an autobox is way better.

And as far as warranty goes, clutches are generally not covered by manufacturer for exactly this circumstance. The way it will probably go down if you're making a claim is that they will take the car apart at your expense (and its a HUGE job) and will give you warranty for the parts and labor if they think the cause is a manufacturing defect. If the pressure plate is blue and the grease in the release bearing is crispy you will be paying.

I wouldn't be comfortable letting a dealer take my car apart unless Im convinced they have a guy on staff that knows how to do it and isn't learning on my car. If you suspect that you fried the clutch or related part, pay a guy that's an expert in Corvettes to rip it apart and put it together properly.
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Old 01-14-2019, 10:18 AM
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Ok I ran into this video and it sounded just like my problem, The guy forgot to lube the throw out bearing and it was rattling on the fork, somehow it sounds 95% like my noise.

Also drove for a little bit earlier and in 1st gear at 5 to 10 mph and with clutch pressed in, there is some rattling noise, sounds kind of like when you put a metal ring in a chopstick and you make it spin, but louder and more metal sounding. Also the shifter I can feel some vibration, in other gears there is no vibration and noise.

Went to outside to try to hear the noises but can't, even opened up the trunk. Can only hear the noises inside the car.

So is it throw out bearing? One noise happens when I clutch in and in 1st another when I clutch out in N.

Last edited by okaythen; 01-14-2019 at 10:31 AM.
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Old 01-14-2019, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by eseibel67 View Post
I am a huge fan of a manual transmission for a toy car. Except if your fun is drag racing, in which case manual is terrible and and an autobox is way better.

And as far as warranty goes, clutches are generally not covered by manufacturer for exactly this circumstance. The way it will probably go down if you're making a claim is that they will take the car apart at your expense (and its a HUGE job) and will give you warranty for the parts and labor if they think the cause is a manufacturing defect. If the pressure plate is blue and the grease in the release bearing is crispy you will be paying.

I wouldn't be comfortable letting a dealer take my car apart unless Im convinced they have a guy on staff that knows how to do it and isn't learning on my car. If you suspect that you fried the clutch or related part, pay a guy that's an expert in Corvettes to rip it apart and put it together properly.
So what kind of damage to the wallet am I looking at if I have to pay? for labor and the parts.

My neighbor is a tranny specialist at a Ford dealer, I think he fixes a lot of the car from the car club that he belongs to, always see the same model cars when I drive by and they say he is pretty good. Are trannys pretty much the same for all cars so I can go to him to save a few bucks, or I need to go to a corvette specialist.
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Old 01-14-2019, 10:33 AM
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You definately need to invest in a line lock it sounds like. While you're at it go ahead and get a two step put in also. Will save you from buying another clutch bc it will do all the work for you. And this certainly isn't a warranty issue.
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Old 01-14-2019, 10:43 AM
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I'm so glad I ordered a Corvette ,no offense but you burnout people sound like nut cases.
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Old 01-14-2019, 10:48 AM
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This IS my last response. Stationery in my dictionary is “NOT MOVING”. If you have the brakes forcefully applied the wheels cannot spin (no burnout). This is how A8s utilize “Launch Control” by standing on the brakes while going WOT till RPM stabilizes, then releasing brakes. I’ve watched too many 1/4 mile burnouts. The manual folks simply enter the burnout “water box”, release clutch while applying power thru the 40-60’ area then stop & either back up or pull forward to stage depending where the car is. The only way to TRULY do a STATIONARY burnout is as other poster said, use a line lock which keeps rear brakes from engaging & can even be “toggled” on & off. You don’t release the clutch then jump on the brakes to “hold” the car stationary. Have you watched “pros” doing burnouts with manuals? They are spinning the tires while moving forward, not stationary (unless using a line lock). Good luck & have fun at the track!

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