87 vs 91 octane, HP loss, MPG loss, knocking???
#121
Melting Slicks
That occasional part throttle knock is exactly what I'm talking about. You can tune an engine well enough to get rid of it right now, but what happens next week on different fuel? You can't say you're going to tune out every last bit of it without giving up power somewhere, and if you're as experienced as you say you are, you know that and are just arguing for the sake of arguing.
The factory tunes give up power for additional safety factor, but as you say, you can still get some knock with those tunes as well. These tunes generally have so much more time in their setup than any aftermarket tuner that it makes you wonder why they still leave so much power on the table...
It does take more than one good spike to blow up most engines that aren't rotaries. With a rotary a single strong ping can break an apex seal. That doesn't happen with piston engines. With piston engines if it's blown up as soon as you start hearing the knock, then you've been in trouble for a while and didn't realize it.
Yes, E85 will allow you to go way past MBT without any audible knock. And then things get kinda interesting, but you have to be not paying attention to get to that point.
The factory tunes give up power for additional safety factor, but as you say, you can still get some knock with those tunes as well. These tunes generally have so much more time in their setup than any aftermarket tuner that it makes you wonder why they still leave so much power on the table...
It does take more than one good spike to blow up most engines that aren't rotaries. With a rotary a single strong ping can break an apex seal. That doesn't happen with piston engines. With piston engines if it's blown up as soon as you start hearing the knock, then you've been in trouble for a while and didn't realize it.
Yes, E85 will allow you to go way past MBT without any audible knock. And then things get kinda interesting, but you have to be not paying attention to get to that point.
Its been over a year and 17,000 miles and it hasn't 'knocked' since. I log every drive and have hundreds of logs with no knock in them. Ive also increased the sensitivity of the knock sensors to be sure.
Also, at 20psi+ of boost pressure on 93 if you 'knock' once its over. sorry pal 1 shot kaboom
Tuned 150+ cars never have knock in them, 7 different ECU and who knows how many different platforms. The part throttle knock only occurs if you get bad gas which is why I run silent exhaust and warn my tuned cars owners to use methanol injection. it isn't a tuning issues its a fuel issue.
Last edited by Kingtal0n; 01-18-2019 at 07:18 PM.
#122
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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From the OP:
After doing some research on octane I’ve got a confession. I didn’t know lower octane could cause damage to the engine. I wasn’t versed in what happens when lower octane is used. Yes I saw that it could cause knocking, what ever that was. But I wasn’t really up to speed on what that meant.
So should I mix in some of the 100 octane race fuel and/or add Techron to the approximately 12 gallons of fuel that I now have left in the tank and then top off with 91 octane from the gas station? Should I also change the oil and see if there is anything in there that shouldn’t be? The last oil change was done at 510 miles, the low rpm break-in, and I now have about 2600.
I found a couple of good articles about octane. A simple one here for us newbies : https://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine-knock.htm
After doing some research on octane I’ve got a confession. I didn’t know lower octane could cause damage to the engine. I wasn’t versed in what happens when lower octane is used. Yes I saw that it could cause knocking, what ever that was. But I wasn’t really up to speed on what that meant.
So should I mix in some of the 100 octane race fuel and/or add Techron to the approximately 12 gallons of fuel that I now have left in the tank and then top off with 91 octane from the gas station? Should I also change the oil and see if there is anything in there that shouldn’t be? The last oil change was done at 510 miles, the low rpm break-in, and I now have about 2600.
I found a couple of good articles about octane. A simple one here for us newbies : https://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine-knock.htm
RE blending what you have with 100 octane?? I would not bother. Just start using the highest octane available in your area. Lots of places only have 91 octane, which is fine. Avoid lugging the engine at low rpm and no WOT until you go though say two tanks and you'll be fine.
SIDE BAR
My markting communications manager got a great deal on a new sedan but he didn't understand that 6 cylinder engine he thought would be great for gas mileage had a turbocharger. He refused to use the recommended hi test gas the owner's manual said was required. He never used hi test and wasn't about to start!
Made the same suggestion to him, just don't put your foot to the floor and don't lug the engine. With an automatic trans that usually takes care of the lugging issue, i.e. if you use a lot of throttle starting at low rpm it will down shift automatically. It's only us with standard shifts must be careful.
He had that car for a number of years and the way he drove he never used close to WOT anyway. Car was fine and he was happy buying regular gas!
Last edited by JerryU; 01-18-2019 at 07:46 PM.
#125
#126
For what it's worth, in a normally aspirated airplane (non-turbocharged), a properly leaned engine produces approximately 75% power at full throttle at 7,000 ft msl.
This would apply to a non-turbocharged ground-bound vehicle at the corresponding altitude.
Stardusterone
This would apply to a non-turbocharged ground-bound vehicle at the corresponding altitude.
Stardusterone
#127
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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For what it's worth, in a normally aspirated airplane (non-turbocharged), a properly leaned engine produces approximately 75% power at full throttle at 7,000 ft msl.
This would apply to a non-turbocharged ground-bound vehicle at the corresponding altitude.
Stardusterone
This would apply to a non-turbocharged ground-bound vehicle at the corresponding altitude.
Stardusterone
This famous PhD petroleum engineering professor was giving talks all around the country. He was making so much money he hired a chauffer to drive him. After 1 year as they were going to a University to give that talk, the chauffer said, “Professor I have listened to your talk over 50 times. Here you are making all this money and I’m just getting by! In fact I bet I can give that talk better than you!” The Professor said, “Well let’s see. I have never been to the University and we’re about the same size. Let’s switch cloths and you give the talk.” The Chauffer did an outstanding job giving the professor’s speech with more expression and enthusiasm. He got a standing ovation.
Then the moderator said we have time for one question! A student asked, “Professor if 2 million years ago a dinosaur died and is now covered with 6350 feet of sediment and a drill bit hits that area, what will the ph of the soil be? The chauffer said, “Sir I am surprised that let someone like you in this prestigious University and you ask such a simple question. To show you how simple, my chauffer is in the back of the room, I’ll just let him answer!”
ON SUBJECT:
I view this octane and altitude question rather simplistically. At lower engine speeds if with excess timing or a lean mixture you get some pining when you put you foot to the floor, just give it less throttle and it goes away. You have less cylinder pressure as the manifold pressure was lower due to throttle butterfly position. As altitude increases it’s the same as not having the throttle open fully, i.e. less octane is needed to avoid preignition with altitude!
Last edited by JerryU; 01-19-2019 at 09:46 AM.
#129
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2000
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False economy!!!
Use 87 and the computer just says "the idiot is using 87" and retards the spark.
Then the gas mileage goes down, and cost goes up.
Premium is cheaper to run!!!
<<<<<------------my first Corvette. Bought new in 1967
Use 87 and the computer just says "the idiot is using 87" and retards the spark.
Then the gas mileage goes down, and cost goes up.
Premium is cheaper to run!!!
<<<<<------------my first Corvette. Bought new in 1967
Last edited by ztheusa; 01-19-2019 at 10:49 AM.
#130
Melting Slicks
I am in Vegas and I mostly run 91 since that's what's available here, elevation here is 2000 and I often drive it hard during the summer. Did I damage the engine some? Maybe some knocks since it's only 91 and hot here?
Really need 93 min huh?
Really need 93 min huh?
#131
The Z06 is designed to work with 91 as large markets like Ca don’t have 93. Your octane sensor pulls timing when it sees 91 octane. I believe it drops you around 50 WHP.
#132
Pro
87 octane in a Vette
Why would you even risk this? The possibility of ANY damage, to the engine, far outweigh ANY savings. What's that old saying? Penny wise and engine foolish? Just not worth it IMHO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#133
Racer
Funny how some think there is a sensor to determine the gas you use, like some sort of fuel analyzer or something. The truth is there is a sensor that determines engine pre-ignition (knock) and reacts to your dumb decision to put 87 in. It then adjust the timing to minimize the negative effects.
Last edited by LarryFL; 01-26-2019 at 10:09 PM.
#134
Melting Slicks
Drag racing does Z06 need 100 octane? 100 is for road racing tracks right?
#135
You can run 87 octane if you are in the middle of Alabama and need to get home but all they sell is 87.
91-93 is recommended for usual use even if you aren't racing. On a Z06 or ZR1 it's HIGHLY suggested that you run the best fuel possible or else.
In my 2006 Honda S2000 I run premium and get better fuel economy and about 20whp more on a dyno. The engine's computer will automatically adjust timing, hopefully before any major damage, and reduce performance. That car doesn't have direct injection, is half the cylinders, and nearly half the horsepower. My wife ran 87 in it and prior to a mountain weekend and we got some light pinging on The Back of The Dragon. Kept it easy, used some octane booster and things were good. No major damage done. Probably 200ish thousand miles on that engine (AP1 2.0 in AP2 body) and I'd treat the Corvette better but if it works for you then keep on until it doesn't.
91-93 is recommended for usual use even if you aren't racing. On a Z06 or ZR1 it's HIGHLY suggested that you run the best fuel possible or else.
In my 2006 Honda S2000 I run premium and get better fuel economy and about 20whp more on a dyno. The engine's computer will automatically adjust timing, hopefully before any major damage, and reduce performance. That car doesn't have direct injection, is half the cylinders, and nearly half the horsepower. My wife ran 87 in it and prior to a mountain weekend and we got some light pinging on The Back of The Dragon. Kept it easy, used some octane booster and things were good. No major damage done. Probably 200ish thousand miles on that engine (AP1 2.0 in AP2 body) and I'd treat the Corvette better but if it works for you then keep on until it doesn't.
#136
I personally would always run the highest octane possible with FI. In that heat your losing a lot of power. But, as I see Z06’s run around Thunder Hill on 91, with a GM backed warranty, I think they have running on 91 relatively safe. One reason I don’t like FI on the track is the insane fuel cost, as I would not put my personal supercharged track car on an actual road race circuit without at least 100 octane.
#138
Melting Slicks
#139
Race Director
A lot of people in Canada prefer ethanol free fuel though, better MPG and you don't need to worry about your fuel system when the car sits in storage all winter long. And up here it actually costs less to use ethanol free premium from Costco compared to the other brands with 10% ethanol. (and for those that don't use Costco, our Shell premium is ethanol free too)
Last edited by Patman; 02-01-2019 at 03:15 PM.
#140
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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Works in race cars as the octane is much higher and you can run very high compression that more than compensates. That extra fuel it uses does help cool down the mixture.
The 4 cylinder Offy engine dominated Indy and other series from the 1930's to 1970's because it could run 15:1 compression on Ethanol. With it's one piece cylinder head and block- no head gasket issues! That 252 cid engine could produce 420 NA hp!