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Free C7 TB Mod Rework/Recalibration for PTBs*

 
Old 03-02-2019, 11:06 PM
  #21  
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Interesting idea and it looks like a affordable and also easy to install mod which is nice. Does this change the sound of the engine at all? To an audiophile I mean? Do you have any videos on YouTube posted yet?
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Old 03-02-2019, 11:14 PM
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Mamo, Z06, 2016, LT4 (2017 lid), aFe Momentum intake, Kooks LTH + x-pipe, aFe Mach Force axleback, custom tune from Excelsior Motorsports.

***edit, just read you already have all 6.

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Old 03-02-2019, 11:18 PM
  #23  
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Thanks Mehrloving, no, it won't change the sound. It just redistributes power earlier and more linear/predictably, feels great.
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Old 03-02-2019, 11:24 PM
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BTW, all six reworked test samples are on their way back to members. We engine tested, 1ea of each of the 3 brands reworked and confirmed they can accept the rework and perform just as the SE8223-100 part made from new OEM's. Let's see how you like them. Again, thanks for participating.
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Old 03-02-2019, 11:30 PM
  #25  
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Will you be doing an exchange program? So I don't need to have my car down for 2 weeks. This would be for a stock gm unit
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Old 03-02-2019, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by poughkeepsie View Post
Will you be doing an exchange program? So I don't need to have my car down for 2 weeks. This would be for a stock gm unit
We are not planing to do the typical core exchange, that is, the type in which you get someone else's reworked core w/o any of us knowing what it has been through. What we could offer in this cases is a "borrowed" OEM TB from us backed by a deposit from you. Once you receive it, you would ship yours to be reworked, and after you get your reworked unit, you can ship the borrowed part back and get the deposit refunded. It would take a couple of extra days and about $20 in extra shipping costs, but I think it is worth it. No doubts, no headaches later on.

What do you think?
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Old 03-03-2019, 12:09 AM
  #27  
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After having some issues getting my C7 on the road right due to some body work problems I'm proud to say this is a game changer.

No it didn't add 500whp to my car or turn it into a responsive electric motor swapped Corvette.

What it did do was effectively "tightened the slack" from the old cable days. My throttle feels a good bit more responsive once I got it idling fine.

When combined with my BMS filter it did have more of an intake noise and felt more responsive still.

Going back to stock with BMS it didn't have the same feeling when adding 30%+ throttle which is where I felt the most "slack". The porting was actually very nice and install is so simple even I could figure it out.

I really do like this upgrade & would love to see flow numbers compared to others
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Old 03-03-2019, 01:33 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by James Dean View Post
After having some issues getting my C7 on the road right due to some body work problems I'm proud to say this is a game changer.

No it didn't add 500whp to my car or turn it into a responsive electric motor swapped Corvette.

What it did do was effectively "tightened the slack" from the old cable days. My throttle feels a good bit more responsive once I got it idling fine.

When combined with my BMS filter it did have more of an intake noise and felt more responsive still.

Going back to stock with BMS it didn't have the same feeling when adding 30%+ throttle which is where I felt the most "slack". The porting was actually very nice and install is so simple even I could figure it out.


I really do like this upgrade & would love to see flow numbers compared to others
James, I'm glad you've got your car back and appreciate your feedback, it could not have come at a better time. We do have our logs and logs from members posted here. See:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1598860139

and

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1598731649


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Old 03-03-2019, 07:41 PM
  #29  
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Your website is really nice, simple and thorough, just like it should be. I am sold on people/companies that sell data not magic and am looking forwards to getting mine installed. I should be seeing mine arrive just in time for me to take it on a nice long weekend trip too! That said my past work, when I did actual work lol, was only quantified by time slips and never had anything tested or dynoed. I am looking forward to comparing what I think is a 95% fixed stock TB that I am driving on now as I think you have enough real scientific info to make something that is 100% better than stock. Just curious how it will do in eco mode, where I sometimes notice a slight plateau in response during a few degrees of input around the 8-13% range. Kudos again for the nice website!
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Old 03-03-2019, 09:56 PM
  #30  
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Thanks a lot, Yourconfused. Looking forward to your review. I'm sure our MTB doubles the rate of change of air flow of the OEM in the part throttle range. I can also tell you that, if you find it lacking a 5% or whichever number it is, I'm going to work w/ you to get it to 100% as long as you are willing to bear w/ me on it.
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Old 03-03-2019, 10:10 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Thanks a lot, Yourconfused. Looking forward forward for your review. I'm sure our MTB doubles the rate of change of air flow of the OEM in the part throttle range. I can also tell you that, if you find it lacking a 5% or whichever number it is, I'm going to work w/ you to get it to 100% as long as you are willing to bear w/ me on it.
Now this is customer service done right!

Andy from A&A, Steve (tech) from Vararam and you are the best that I have dealt with thus far. Keep up the good work! I am a (honest) fan.
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Old 03-04-2019, 08:14 PM
  #32  
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Received my throttle body. I can tell a difference in the shape. I also recieved the "learning" instructions. Looking forward to testing this in the cold air...
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Old 03-04-2019, 08:33 PM
  #33  
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Got mine today. Thank you for the super fast turn around time and free work.

This will be going on my 14 Z51 MRC NPP A6 which has my once stock TB (going on 10th or so revision of porting to get the desired results, which Solar Performance just so happened to have been working out ahead of me, as I was not overwhelmed, but rather underwhelmed by the results of the Mamo TB) with Vararam intake and the SR1 x-pipe (Corsa knock off) as the only mods to an otherwise stock daily driver. I was about to put the Mamo up for sale when this option became available but I was a bit reluctant to go for it as I kinda wanted to recoup my money to an extent. I thought the Mamo was better than stock, and a decent amount of material was removed which smoothed out the flow path for most likely much better/less turbulent air flow during WOT but no way was it a "game changer" on the LT1 as people kindly refer to it as. Just my opinion.

Initial Solar Performance impression after unboxing:
Looks like only a little material was removed and in an uneven looking manor which I assume is due to the hand port job done by Tony, which would have removed a bit more in some areas than others due to the nature of hand jobs. (not knocking hand jobs as i am quite fond of them personally lol) The finish of the machine work is interesting. What mill bit do you use? It looks like it was done in 2 differing arcs on the outer, filter side, as well as the inner, motor side, of the TB. It looks to me that you went with the rotation of the bit on one pass and against the rotation on the other pass, on both sides with the outside of the TB being noticeable both visually and to the touch while the inside is just a visual detection, due to the finish of the cut. Just initial observations. I did a bit of CNC PLC ladder logic programming years ago and wouldn't have a clue how to program modern mills so I am not sure how you manufacture these. 99% of the fabrication work I use to do was prototype work so there was no need for that stuff. I would be curious how the finish was achieved on the Mamo TB as it looks like the final texture was done with a loaded up stone due to the smearing of the metal. Gotta keep a little texture for a nice boundary layer and all. Sanding drum, taper cone, flapper wheel and carbide (or HSS) bits and stones all have differing finishes and aluminum is more of a tattle tale than other metals. A bit of ivory soap, WD-40 or actual cutting/cooling fluid can go a long way for a smooth finish. I know almost anyone that just read "ivory soap" will be saying WTF is this idiot talking about. lol

Overall I was surprised that more material was not removed but being that there is a difference, and what looks to be in the right areas, I do expect that a difference should be noticeable. I am a bit of a cynic so I will report back once I get it installed and will only give as unbiased of a review as I can.

It is now 32 outside and dark so I won't be putting it on until Wednesday when I am off and it will also be a bit warmer, like in the 50's I think.

Thanks again Mike!

Last edited by Yourconfused; 03-04-2019 at 10:26 PM. Reason: I lied and installed it at 1 below freezing to get fast results
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Old 03-04-2019, 08:34 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by snampro View Post
Received my throttle body. I can tell a difference in the shape. I also recieved the "learning" instructions. Looking forward to testing this in the cold air...
Thanks for the note about the learning instructions. I didn't even check my box until you posted that. How did he know that I like collecting pens! lol
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Old 03-04-2019, 11:34 PM
  #35  
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Yourconfused, note taken, the tool is HSS, nothing fancy, maybe we should try carbide.

The cut has to be tapered and tangent. It cannot have constant depth, neither the intersection will be straight, it is either that or tangent. Hence the two arcs, getting the tangency right at the ends where it is harder. We could get rid of the witness line but I'm sure it will make no difference.

We have reworked 5ea of the brand in question and none of them were equal to each other in terms of what can be expected from the repeatability of a machine tool. If you see tool marks from the previous job adjacent to the end of our cut, which I saw in some cases, then that is it.

Good stuff, thanks!
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Old 03-05-2019, 09:06 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Yourconfused, note taken, the tool is HSS, nothing fancy, maybe we should try carbide.

The cut has to be tapered and tangent. It cannot have constant depth, neither the intersection will be straight, it is either that or tangent. Hence the two arcs, getting the tangency right at the ends where it is harder. We could get rid of the witness line but I'm sure it will make no difference.

We have reworked 5ea of the brand in question and none of them were equal to each other in terms of what can be expected from the repeatability of a machine tool. If you see tool marks from the previous job adjacent to the end of our cut, which I saw in some cases, then that is it.

Good stuff, thanks!
Due to the price difference a 4 flute HSS is all you would need since Al is so soft. I was just rambling. lol
Witness line was the word I was looking for. lol Been a while since I worked in that area. You are correct in that it makes no performance difference but I guess you would see that in your simulations anyway.

I drove the car first without doing the re-learn and the car acted like someone eating salsa that was too hot but the only thing calming the taste buds down was to eat another bite. lol
Whoa, too much air flow for that throttle angle, backs off despite requested throttle position, then played it conservative on throttle angle before letting control be handed back over to the driver. About like expected. I performed the first part of slow revving to 4k ten times and have so far gone through 3 drives letting the car cool for 90 minutes between. The car is driving more normal but far from like it should. Tomorrow I need to change the oil and then I will give it a couple more drives and hopefully by Friday it will have learned the new profile. Currently there is a wall of resistance past the initial tip in somewhere in the 15-18% range which requires a decent amount of pedal travel to overcome. Meaning it is nice and responsive at first and then there is a big dead spot. When in auto the car is having hell with with shifting and going onto V4 mode as it isn't sure what VB angle to be at despite unchanged throttle pedal position so it falls on its face for half a second. The A6, even in track mode, will shift into 5th, 1600rpm and V4 under light load, small acceleration. Putting the car in manual mode helps things out a lot if RPM is kept closer to 1800-2K rpm for shifting. I don't think I will have anything else to report back until the car gets a few more miles on it. I am curious about how normal driving will sound as I have noticed the whistle come and go around a certian butterfly position. This would be fun to play with on a flow bench.
No check engine light though.
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Old 03-05-2019, 10:27 PM
  #37  
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Yourconfused, I expected a bit of that, in fact there is another member testing the same PTB rework going through the learning routine and experiencing the same. This is something to be added to the instructions (expect the car to be rough for a few driving cycles).

I have been thinking about disconnecting the battery or the ECM fuse overnight before changing the TB so it will learn it more quickly. The problem is that many other learned values from other systems/sensors would be lost too, so, that could backfire. Eventually, they will be all relearned, but still, you don't want to destabilize all the systems that were honed just to get done w/ the TB faster...I'm still pondering this question.

The good thing is that, that is the sign of a difference, and no codes mean that the old vs. new MAF offset is within ECM compensation limits. It is a matter of time now.

BTW, if you had the stock TB on while your PTB was our for rework, it probably made a bigger MAF difference/shock for the ECM.
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Old 03-06-2019, 05:02 AM
  #38  
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Interesting reading your experience. I installed mine yesterday but didn't have time to run through the procedure and so haven't driven with it yet. I'll make sure my PDR and OBD II are up and running for the procedure, might be some interesting plots...

Data are fun!

EDIT: Just saw Mike's comment and pulling the battery to reset the ECM. This was a trick I used on my '94 VIPER all the time. There was a manual procedure to sync the two throttlebodies when the car ran more rough than it normally would. When you did the sync, it worked best to remove the negative battery cable and short it against the positive terminal, clearing the memory and resetting everything, or so the legend was at the time. It made the car run way better, and I probably did it religiously 3 to 4 times a year... But that was a much simpler car with way fewer sensors...

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Old 03-06-2019, 03:09 PM
  #39  
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put about 40 miles on it today in 3 trips. started in my heated garage at 53 deg F without issue. Did two revs to 4K there, then pulled out into 19 deg F temps. Did the other 8 revs outside, then drove. I noticed one stumble when I was pulling out of my neighborhood, other than that, no issues or anomalies.

I can tell a big difference. I have not got on it hard, but the car is more responsive down low. Honestly, it feels ready to go just like my VIPER mentioned above did...

Mike, I'll send you a link to my PDR files on my google drive...
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Old 03-06-2019, 03:25 PM
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That's great, Snampro. Thanks for the feedback. Did you get to reset the ECM? Did you lose any other setting or something significant? Thx.
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