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This is exactly why I spent the bucks and bought a Quick Jack. Got the 7000 so I could lift my F150 too.
BTW, you're the second guy this past week to post something like this using a Harbor Freight Jack.
If you insist on using a jack, look into an Omega Low Profile.
Unfortunate, but you’re not the first person to do this... several others have posted the same. It typically happens when the jack wheels don’t move when lifting and lowering.
The side skirt can easily be easily replaced... can’t really see the extent of the damage to the rocker. Hopefully it’s just superficial and can be repaired. You definitely don’t want to replace it. The rockers are actually glued to the fame and can be very labor intensive to replace. GL.
Heres my set up, note the metal sheets I picked up at a fabricating shop. I always put them under the jack to reduce resistance. I like the hockey pucks. They are rubber the jack is rubber. No guarantees but has worked on numerous vette over 20 years.
How do you drain your oil using ramps without also jacking up the rear of your C7 to level? How do you remove your wheels using ramps?
Ramps seem kind of useless to me considering they are no good for the tasks that most owners need to raise their C7s to perform.
in my garage I have a center floor drain. I angle the car so it is sitting somewhat downhill. I jack the front right leaning the car to the left. So now the car is lowered to the left front. I put Ramps under the front tire for safety, I hate jack stands and slide under. Simple
How do you drain your oil using ramps without also jacking up the rear of your C7 to level? How do you remove your wheels using ramps?
Ramps seem kind of useless to me considering they are no good for the tasks that most owners need to raise their C7s to perform.
Seeing as the oil drain plug on the C7 is in the rear of the oil pan, raising the front just makes it drain easier, and you don't need very high (mine are 4.5" high) ramps to do it.
I never use a floor jack on my C7 - if I need to remove the wheels, I do them two at a time by putting the C7 on my 3" high ramps and then using two of my low profile 2 ton double ram bottle jacks those jacks collapse to 5.5" high and extend to 14" https://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...4445157410.htm I also use the Elite Engineering aluminum jacking pucks
I have the same model Race Ramps and extenders. So easy to use and safer than jacking the car. Only use a floor jack if I am taking the wheels off. I use Reverse Logic pucks with extenders inserted into the jacking points. I stopped using hockey pucks in the jack cup because it creates a potential slipping point instead of a solid seat. The position of the jack wheels (facing towards the car) is also important to allow proper travel.
[QUOTE=Greg00Coupe;1599094540]Heres my set up, note the metal sheets I picked up at a fabricating shop. I always put them under the jack to reduce resistance. I like the hockey pucks. They are rubber the jack is rubber. No guarantees but has worked on numerous vette over 20 years.
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QUOTE]
Yes this is especially a good idea on garage floors that are epoxy or non broom swept finish. 90% of jack slips are not due to puck issues but jacks sliding/creeping on the concrete floor. Vette owners take note of your floor when using jacks.
in my garage I have a center floor drain. I angle the car so it is sitting somewhat downhill. I jack the front right leaning the car to the left. So now the car is lowered to the left front. I put Ramps under the front tire for safety, I hate jack stands and slide under. Simple
Originally Posted by LIStingray
Seeing as the oil drain plug on the C7 is in the rear of the oil pan, raising the front just makes it drain easier, and you don't need very high (mine are 4.5" high) ramps to do it.
I never use a floor jack on my C7 - if I need to remove the wheels, I do them two at a time by putting the C7 on my 3" high ramps and then using two of my low profile 2 ton double ram bottle jacks those jacks collapse to 5.5" high and extend to 14" https://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...4445157410.htm I also use the Elite Engineering aluminum jacking pucks
Again, I find ramps useless, or of very little use if you have to use a jack or jacks anyway. C7 needs to be level to properly drain oil on a dry-sump.
Sorry about that sucks!!! Im willing to bet the concrete floor had something to do with the slipping of jack (more than the pucks) as it looks shiny and did you chock the other wheels prior to jacking?
I did put the car in gear with emergency brake on and I chocked the opposite wheel (front right) where I was jacking. I didn't use a genuine wheel chock but I did put a 10lb bag of sand in front of the wheel. Its possible that was a factor and the floor too. I have noticed some guys put cardboard down to give the floor jack some traction. That's probably not a bad idea.
But again, for $203 I bought the RR-56 Made in USA Foam Ramps which I think is the way to go.They are light yet strong and the Rhino Ramps have deformed on a friend of mine so I won't use those. The billet pucks I have just purchased as well, as much to protect repair shops as it is to protect from my own jacking.
I use the Reverse Logic lifting pucks which have a squared off bottom as opposed to a beveled edge. The 3-ton lo-profile Harbor Freight/Pittsburg jack I use has a deeper dish than the 1.5-ton Harbor freight jack and captures the above pucks much better to resist slippage.
Why did I see your post and then decide to work on my vette?!?!? I have a QuickJack and one of the hoses burst!!!
No damage thankfully, I was in the process of lifting it so I was not under it. Hydraulic fluid everywhere! One side was up the other went down. Thankfully it did not slip off.
I guess it is good that is was on the way up and not completely up or I would not have been able to lower it from the locked position.
I am really lucky a good friend of my mine has a lift so oil changes are easy and safe. I have used his lift to change my X pipe etc. Thanks Tome a forum member.
The beveled edged plastic pucks are garbage! They will slip and slide over the edge on the jack pads. They have caused damage many times just like this. Those who sell them need to stop selling them because this type of damage will continue. You need flat bottom metal pucks so this doesn't happen again.
Again, I find ramps useless, or of very little use if you have to use a jack or jacks anyway. C7 needs to be level to properly drain oil on a dry-sump.
I can't speak to the dry sump, but for the wet sump that I have I can use my race ramps (with extenders) for my oil changes. The drain plug is towards the rear, and the front of the pan is sloped to drain the oil to the rear. Any oil that does not drain is due to the baffling in the pan or just coating the internal engine surfaces and not due to the front being raised higher than the rear. I have found that with the 7 quart LT1, about 1/2 quart remains in the engine and I don't believe that raising the rear would help at all. Take a look at the actual c7 pan to see what I mean.
03-23-2019, 08:11 AM
