Inside tire abnormal wear?
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Inside tire abnormal wear?
Hi friends,
My C7 GS has only seen two track days and is otherwise babied and driven non-aggressively. I've maintained all service requirements and recently realized what seems to be abnormal wear on the insides of the tires. I defer to you all, is this normal? Seems extreme.
I have less than 20K miles on it and the wear doesn't seem even at all.
Thanks!
My C7 GS has only seen two track days and is otherwise babied and driven non-aggressively. I've maintained all service requirements and recently realized what seems to be abnormal wear on the insides of the tires. I defer to you all, is this normal? Seems extreme.
I have less than 20K miles on it and the wear doesn't seem even at all.
Thanks!
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Nawambo (04-08-2019)
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Nawambo (04-08-2019)
#4
Drifting
The GS and Z06 have a much more aggressive alignment than the base C7. On my 13 GS I had it aligned with the base model specs and the Goodyear's lasted 15,000 miles. The Bridgestone's that I replaced them with had 33,000 miles on them when I traded the car and they were still in great shape. I don't track my 19 GS so as soon as I purchased it I had the base car alignment applied so I know that my tires will last a lot longer. Taking some of the stress off of the inside of the Cup wheels and spreading it across a broader surface may also help to avoid bent wheel syndrome. Only time will tell.
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Nawambo (04-09-2019)
#5
Race Director
The GS and Z06 have a much more aggressive alignment than the base C7. On my 13 GS I had it aligned with the base model specs and the Goodyear's lasted 15,000 miles. The Bridgestone's that I replaced them with had 33,000 miles on them when I traded the car and they were still in great shape. I don't track my 19 GS so as soon as I purchased it I had the base car alignment applied so I know that my tires will last a lot longer. Taking some of the stress off of the inside of the Cup wheels and spreading it across a broader surface may also help to avoid bent wheel syndrome. Only time will tell.
Set the car up with camber at, or very near zero, and you wont have the scalped inside edge problem.
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Nawambo (04-09-2019)
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Nawambo (04-09-2019)
#9
Drifting
I never track my car so the first thing I did was get a more street friendly alignment. They did warn me not to track the car with the new settings. Here are my settings.
#10
Recommending to someone who goes to track days to set camber to 0 is ludicrous.
As someone who has been racing and aligning street/track/race cars for 15 years I can say that toe is the issue here.
As someone who has been racing and aligning street/track/race cars for 15 years I can say that toe is the issue here.
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Nawambo (04-09-2019)
#11
Race Director
I never track my car so the first thing I did was get a more street friendly alignment. They did warn me not to track the car with the new settings. Here are my settings.Attachment 48301795
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Nawambo (04-09-2019)
#12
Race Director
There is no evidence of feather edging and if you look at the wear bars, its clear the tire is being worn most heavily on the inboard 50% of the tire. The siping is even worn off the inside third and is clearly present on the outside third.
This is a camber problem.
Last edited by PatternDayTrader; 04-09-2019 at 05:20 PM.
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Nawambo (04-09-2019)
#13
You better look at the picture again.
There is no evidence of feather edging and if you look at the wear bars, its clear the tire is being worn most heavily on the inboard 50% of the tire. The siping is even worn off the inside third and is clearly present on the outside third.
This is a camber problem.
There is no evidence of feather edging and if you look at the wear bars, its clear the tire is being worn most heavily on the inboard 50% of the tire. The siping is even worn off the inside third and is clearly present on the outside third.
This is a camber problem.
Yes there's camber wear. The outside has more meat than the inside. But the last 20% or so of the tread has dramatically increased "angle" in wear. Tell me you don't see that?
That type of wear pattern is typical of insufficient toe-in. A car that haz zero toe or a little bit of toe-out produces exaggerated wear on and near the shoulder, just as a car with TOO MUCH toe-in will produce the same wear pattern on the OUTSIDE.
The other possibility of said wear pattern comes from a delaminated tread, where chunks of it falls off due to excessive high temp. But the OP said he's only tracked the car twice, so that's unlikely. Especially for FRONT tires.
A couple of degrees of negative camber doesn't eat the inside of the tire like this.
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Nawambo (04-09-2019)
#14
Advanced
Thread Starter
I'm blown away by the knowledge here. Thanks folks. I have an appointment with my dealer this week, hopefully, they can sort it out.
#15
Race Director
Take a look at the tires and the wear pattern again.
Yes there's camber wear. The outside has more meat than the inside. But the last 20% or so of the tread has dramatically increased "angle" in wear. Tell me you don't see that?
That type of wear pattern is typical of insufficient toe-in. A car that haz zero toe or a little bit of toe-out produces exaggerated wear on and near the shoulder, just as a car with TOO MUCH toe-in will produce the same wear pattern on the OUTSIDE.
The other possibility of said wear pattern comes from a delaminated tread, where chunks of it falls off due to excessive high temp. But the OP said he's only tracked the car twice, so that's unlikely. Especially for FRONT tires.
A couple of degrees of negative camber doesn't eat the inside of the tire like this.
Yes there's camber wear. The outside has more meat than the inside. But the last 20% or so of the tread has dramatically increased "angle" in wear. Tell me you don't see that?
That type of wear pattern is typical of insufficient toe-in. A car that haz zero toe or a little bit of toe-out produces exaggerated wear on and near the shoulder, just as a car with TOO MUCH toe-in will produce the same wear pattern on the OUTSIDE.
The other possibility of said wear pattern comes from a delaminated tread, where chunks of it falls off due to excessive high temp. But the OP said he's only tracked the car twice, so that's unlikely. Especially for FRONT tires.
A couple of degrees of negative camber doesn't eat the inside of the tire like this.
If toe was the main issue here, there would be feather edging across the entire surface of the tire. The reason there isn't, is because most of the vehicle weight is on the inboard 50% of the tire, and there's no getting around that. A tire that's straight up and down, and is also toed out, will not do what you see in the picture, without also feather edging the rest of the tire. In other words, toe out cannot only wear the inside edge of the tire. It wears the entire tire.
Obviously this is sort of a distinction without a meaningful difference, since the cure for either problem, or both problems is the same. Have a proper alignment done.
#16
This might not be everyone's opinion, but it seems to work for me.
This is my street setup, FE6 GS. It has not had much of an impact on tire life/wear and definitely works for my aggressive driving habits especially through our twisted Rocky Mountain roads. I like to corner as much as the car does and it is still accurate on the street. I have two sets of wheels and run this on the street and I would consider reducing a full degree of camber for track applications with turns. YMMV with the type of tire you run and your style of driving. 15k for PSS is a fairly decent life when set up to maximize the performance handling of these vehicles.
IMO your tires will last longer when you zero out your camber and toe, but it does impact the handling performance of your vehicle. I tried and it sucked!
This is my street setup, FE6 GS. It has not had much of an impact on tire life/wear and definitely works for my aggressive driving habits especially through our twisted Rocky Mountain roads. I like to corner as much as the car does and it is still accurate on the street. I have two sets of wheels and run this on the street and I would consider reducing a full degree of camber for track applications with turns. YMMV with the type of tire you run and your style of driving. 15k for PSS is a fairly decent life when set up to maximize the performance handling of these vehicles.
IMO your tires will last longer when you zero out your camber and toe, but it does impact the handling performance of your vehicle. I tried and it sucked!
#17
Hell to the effin YES.
my other ride has -3.5 degrees of negative camber in the front, -2 degrees of negative camber in the rear. 275s all around, and the last set has signs of negative camber wear, but the pattern is consistent throughout the entire width of the tread surface. With 2 degrees of negative camber in the rear the wear across the tread pattern is actually pretty consistent.
When I ran slight toe-out for about 3 years as my track alignment, I would get similar wear patterns. Some minor camber based wear evenly across the entire face of the tread, then the very INSIDE 20% dramatically increased wear, to a point there’s a sharp delineation from where the camber based wear stops and the toe induced wear starts.
Just like the OP’s picture, sans the cords showing (I only had about 10,000 miles on those R comps) Runflats exacerbates the wear pattern, because it’s the inside sidewall that’s reinforced.
I’m at a point where I am beyond CERTAIN that the inside wear is mostly due to improper toe. Camber contributed the graduated wear from more tread left on the outside in, toe and runflat contributed to the sharp uptick in wear on the inside.
my other ride has -3.5 degrees of negative camber in the front, -2 degrees of negative camber in the rear. 275s all around, and the last set has signs of negative camber wear, but the pattern is consistent throughout the entire width of the tread surface. With 2 degrees of negative camber in the rear the wear across the tread pattern is actually pretty consistent.
When I ran slight toe-out for about 3 years as my track alignment, I would get similar wear patterns. Some minor camber based wear evenly across the entire face of the tread, then the very INSIDE 20% dramatically increased wear, to a point there’s a sharp delineation from where the camber based wear stops and the toe induced wear starts.
Just like the OP’s picture, sans the cords showing (I only had about 10,000 miles on those R comps) Runflats exacerbates the wear pattern, because it’s the inside sidewall that’s reinforced.
I’m at a point where I am beyond CERTAIN that the inside wear is mostly due to improper toe. Camber contributed the graduated wear from more tread left on the outside in, toe and runflat contributed to the sharp uptick in wear on the inside.
#18
Race Director
This might not be everyone's opinion, but it seems to work for me.
This is my street setup, FE6 GS. It has not had much of an impact on tire life/wear and definitely works for my aggressive driving habits especially through our twisted Rocky Mountain roads. I like to corner as much as the car does and it is still accurate on the street. I have two sets of wheels and run this on the street and I would consider reducing a full degree of camber for track applications with turns. YMMV with the type of tire you run and your style of driving. 15k for PSS is a fairly decent life when set up to maximize the performance handling of these vehicles.
IMO your tires will last longer when you zero out your camber and toe, but it does impact the handling performance of your vehicle. I tried and it sucked!
This is my street setup, FE6 GS. It has not had much of an impact on tire life/wear and definitely works for my aggressive driving habits especially through our twisted Rocky Mountain roads. I like to corner as much as the car does and it is still accurate on the street. I have two sets of wheels and run this on the street and I would consider reducing a full degree of camber for track applications with turns. YMMV with the type of tire you run and your style of driving. 15k for PSS is a fairly decent life when set up to maximize the performance handling of these vehicles.
IMO your tires will last longer when you zero out your camber and toe, but it does impact the handling performance of your vehicle. I tried and it sucked!