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Inside tire abnormal wear?

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Old 04-08-2019, 07:32 PM
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Nawambo
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Default Inside tire abnormal wear?

Hi friends,

My C7 GS has only seen two track days and is otherwise babied and driven non-aggressively. I've maintained all service requirements and recently realized what seems to be abnormal wear on the insides of the tires. I defer to you all, is this normal? Seems extreme.

I have less than 20K miles on it and the wear doesn't seem even at all.

Thanks!

Old 04-08-2019, 07:35 PM
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PatternDayTrader
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Too little camber.
Align the front end with camber closer to zero.
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Old 04-08-2019, 07:59 PM
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Mr Triple Black
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Originally Posted by PatternDayTrader
Too little camber.
Align the front end with camber closer to zero.
This is correct. Just watched a YouTube video about this the other day.
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Old 04-09-2019, 07:23 AM
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69 L46 4 Speed
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The GS and Z06 have a much more aggressive alignment than the base C7. On my 13 GS I had it aligned with the base model specs and the Goodyear's lasted 15,000 miles. The Bridgestone's that I replaced them with had 33,000 miles on them when I traded the car and they were still in great shape. I don't track my 19 GS so as soon as I purchased it I had the base car alignment applied so I know that my tires will last a lot longer. Taking some of the stress off of the inside of the Cup wheels and spreading it across a broader surface may also help to avoid bent wheel syndrome. Only time will tell.
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Old 04-09-2019, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 69 L46 4 Speed
The GS and Z06 have a much more aggressive alignment than the base C7. On my 13 GS I had it aligned with the base model specs and the Goodyear's lasted 15,000 miles. The Bridgestone's that I replaced them with had 33,000 miles on them when I traded the car and they were still in great shape. I don't track my 19 GS so as soon as I purchased it I had the base car alignment applied so I know that my tires will last a lot longer. Taking some of the stress off of the inside of the Cup wheels and spreading it across a broader surface may also help to avoid bent wheel syndrome. Only time will tell.
The bolded is the answer.
Set the car up with camber at, or very near zero, and you wont have the scalped inside edge problem.
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Old 04-09-2019, 08:45 AM
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rrsperry
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Nope, I'd say that the toe is off. Unless it's got a crazy amount of camber, like NASCAR -6.5 degrees...
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Old 04-09-2019, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by rrsperry
nope, i'd say that the toe is off. Unless it's got a crazy amount of camber, like nascar -6.5 degrees...
this.
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Old 04-09-2019, 10:17 AM
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I love this place. The knowledge shared is awesome!!!
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Old 04-09-2019, 01:56 PM
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TNSQUIRE
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I never track my car so the first thing I did was get a more street friendly alignment. They did warn me not to track the car with the new settings. Here are my settings.Name:  photo669.jpg
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Old 04-09-2019, 03:55 PM
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Recommending to someone who goes to track days to set camber to 0 is ludicrous.

As someone who has been racing and aligning street/track/race cars for 15 years I can say that toe is the issue here.
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Old 04-09-2019, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by TNSQUIRE
I never track my car so the first thing I did was get a more street friendly alignment. They did warn me not to track the car with the new settings. Here are my settings.Attachment 48301795
I like it for a street car, set up for driving in the right lane more than the left lane.
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Old 04-09-2019, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by subieworx
Recommending to someone who goes to track days to set camber to 0 is ludicrous.

As someone who has been racing and aligning street/track/race cars for 15 years I can say that toe is the issue here.
You better look at the picture again.
There is no evidence of feather edging and if you look at the wear bars, its clear the tire is being worn most heavily on the inboard 50% of the tire. The siping is even worn off the inside third and is clearly present on the outside third.
This is a camber problem.

Last edited by PatternDayTrader; 04-09-2019 at 05:20 PM.
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Old 04-09-2019, 06:59 PM
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The HACK
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Originally Posted by PatternDayTrader
You better look at the picture again.
There is no evidence of feather edging and if you look at the wear bars, its clear the tire is being worn most heavily on the inboard 50% of the tire. The siping is even worn off the inside third and is clearly present on the outside third.
This is a camber problem.
Take a look at the tires and the wear pattern again.

Yes there's camber wear. The outside has more meat than the inside. But the last 20% or so of the tread has dramatically increased "angle" in wear. Tell me you don't see that?

That type of wear pattern is typical of insufficient toe-in. A car that haz zero toe or a little bit of toe-out produces exaggerated wear on and near the shoulder, just as a car with TOO MUCH toe-in will produce the same wear pattern on the OUTSIDE.

The other possibility of said wear pattern comes from a delaminated tread, where chunks of it falls off due to excessive high temp. But the OP said he's only tracked the car twice, so that's unlikely. Especially for FRONT tires.

A couple of degrees of negative camber doesn't eat the inside of the tire like this.
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Old 04-09-2019, 07:41 PM
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I'm blown away by the knowledge here. Thanks folks. I have an appointment with my dealer this week, hopefully, they can sort it out.
Old 04-09-2019, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by The HACK
Take a look at the tires and the wear pattern again.

Yes there's camber wear. The outside has more meat than the inside. But the last 20% or so of the tread has dramatically increased "angle" in wear. Tell me you don't see that?

That type of wear pattern is typical of insufficient toe-in. A car that haz zero toe or a little bit of toe-out produces exaggerated wear on and near the shoulder, just as a car with TOO MUCH toe-in will produce the same wear pattern on the OUTSIDE.

The other possibility of said wear pattern comes from a delaminated tread, where chunks of it falls off due to excessive high temp. But the OP said he's only tracked the car twice, so that's unlikely. Especially for FRONT tires.

A couple of degrees of negative camber doesn't eat the inside of the tire like this.
Are you even being serious with the bolded statement ?

If toe was the main issue here, there would be feather edging across the entire surface of the tire. The reason there isn't, is because most of the vehicle weight is on the inboard 50% of the tire, and there's no getting around that. A tire that's straight up and down, and is also toed out, will not do what you see in the picture, without also feather edging the rest of the tire. In other words, toe out cannot only wear the inside edge of the tire. It wears the entire tire.


Obviously this is sort of a distinction without a meaningful difference, since the cure for either problem, or both problems is the same. Have a proper alignment done.

Old 04-09-2019, 10:15 PM
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This might not be everyone's opinion, but it seems to work for me.
This is my street setup, FE6 GS. It has not had much of an impact on tire life/wear and definitely works for my aggressive driving habits especially through our twisted Rocky Mountain roads. I like to corner as much as the car does and it is still accurate on the street. I have two sets of wheels and run this on the street and I would consider reducing a full degree of camber for track applications with turns. YMMV with the type of tire you run and your style of driving. 15k for PSS is a fairly decent life when set up to maximize the performance handling of these vehicles.

IMO your tires will last longer when you zero out your camber and toe, but it does impact the handling performance of your vehicle. I tried and it sucked!
Old 04-10-2019, 01:03 AM
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The HACK
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Originally Posted by PatternDayTrader
Are you even being serious with the bolded statement ?
Hell to the effin YES.

my other ride has -3.5 degrees of negative camber in the front, -2 degrees of negative camber in the rear. 275s all around, and the last set has signs of negative camber wear, but the pattern is consistent throughout the entire width of the tread surface. With 2 degrees of negative camber in the rear the wear across the tread pattern is actually pretty consistent.

When I ran slight toe-out for about 3 years as my track alignment, I would get similar wear patterns. Some minor camber based wear evenly across the entire face of the tread, then the very INSIDE 20% dramatically increased wear, to a point there’s a sharp delineation from where the camber based wear stops and the toe induced wear starts.

Just like the OP’s picture, sans the cords showing (I only had about 10,000 miles on those R comps) Runflats exacerbates the wear pattern, because it’s the inside sidewall that’s reinforced.

I’m at a point where I am beyond CERTAIN that the inside wear is mostly due to improper toe. Camber contributed the graduated wear from more tread left on the outside in, toe and runflat contributed to the sharp uptick in wear on the inside.
Old 04-10-2019, 01:04 AM
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PatternDayTrader
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Originally Posted by Jaylars
This might not be everyone's opinion, but it seems to work for me.
This is my street setup, FE6 GS. It has not had much of an impact on tire life/wear and definitely works for my aggressive driving habits especially through our twisted Rocky Mountain roads. I like to corner as much as the car does and it is still accurate on the street. I have two sets of wheels and run this on the street and I would consider reducing a full degree of camber for track applications with turns. YMMV with the type of tire you run and your style of driving. 15k for PSS is a fairly decent life when set up to maximize the performance handling of these vehicles.

IMO your tires will last longer when you zero out your camber and toe, but it does impact the handling performance of your vehicle. I tried and it sucked!
I like the caster split. Plus it looks like whoever did this alignment was trying to be precise, so that's always good.
Old 04-10-2019, 08:37 AM
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DSC Alignment Specs

http://www.dscsport.com/wp-content/u...ent-sheets.pdf

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