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Oil change with Dry Sump

 
Old 04-15-2019, 08:30 PM
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Not So Fast
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Default Oil change with Dry Sump

A friend has a C-7 Manual and wants to change his own oil but has never done it before. Mine is a 2011 A-6 so I told him I would ask about the procedure with dry sump. Any body that can tell me how to, any different than mine with just 1 plug to pull ??
Thanks
NSF
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Old 04-15-2019, 08:35 PM
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runner61627
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There are two drain plugs on a dry sump
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ump-specs.html

Last edited by runner61627; 04-15-2019 at 08:37 PM.
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Old 04-15-2019, 09:03 PM
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franknbeans
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Just watched this one today. Simple to do on the dry sump system.

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Old 04-16-2019, 12:17 AM
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RonC7
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These guys even tell you what tools they used.

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Old 04-16-2019, 12:46 AM
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Kevin A Jones
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This is a very handy ratcheting 15mm wrench for removing/replacing drain plugs.

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Old 04-16-2019, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by RonC7 View Post
These guys even tell you what tools they used.
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing. I love to see the job done correctly with the drain plugs and filter tightened to the correct torque specifications. I would have done a couple of things differently. First, I would fill the new filter to about 3/4 full before installing. Second, I would have used a crow foot wrench the lessened the chance of damaging the drain plug when tightening.


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Old 04-16-2019, 10:00 AM
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chronage
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Nothing special about draining except that there's 2 plugs and the car should be level. I re-fill with 9 qts then top off after letting the engine warm up/shut down for 5 mins. Overfilling is a PITA so avoid that.
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Old 04-16-2019, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ShadowGray19 View Post
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing. I love to see the job done correctly with the drain plugs and filter tightened to the correct torque specifications. I would have done a couple of things differently. First, I would fill the new filter to about 3/4 full before installing. Second, I would have used a crow foot wrench the lessened the chance of damaging the drain plug when tightening.

Any idea where I can get a 15 mm crows foot in 1/2" drive? My torque wrench is 1/2". I tried all the locals spots but all they have is 3/8" drive.
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Old 04-16-2019, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by RonC7 View Post
These guys even tell you what tools they used.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q6q3kKly6HA
Do this
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Old 04-16-2019, 11:55 AM
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I just changed my oil on Sunday and the funnel locks on to your dry-sump tank and will not fall off when adding oil. This funnel works great no mess !!!!

Amazon Amazon








Last edited by wrecker3; 04-17-2019 at 08:17 AM.
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Old 04-16-2019, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by chronage View Post
Nothing special about draining except that there's 2 plugs and the car should be level. I re-fill with 9 qts then top off after letting the engine warm up/shut down for 5 mins. Overfilling is a PITA so avoid that.
I second only adding 9 qts on the refill and make sure you drain from both plugs.

You'll never get all the old oil out, so filling with the published capacity of 10 will result in about a half-quart overfill. I've had mine changed 6 times between my two dry sump C7s, and adding 9 qts. puts it right in the middle of the hash marks every time. That's a good place to keep it to ensure oil doesn't burp through the sump hoses into the CAI.

Last edited by Foosh; 04-17-2019 at 08:20 AM. Reason: clarification
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Old 04-16-2019, 12:17 PM
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Get the car up in the air. Pop the hood and leave the oil fill cap on for now.
Whatever reason, the LT1/LT4 flow oil out at stupid quick when warm, stuff shoots out fast and hard.

Locate the two drain plugs and use a 15mm ratching wrench (prefered tool) or whatever you have that will fit. Make sure you can safely remove both drain plugs with your tools before you drain them.

Loosen both using the tool so you can get them out by hand. I start with the front and let it drain until dripping. Next I use the side plug and once it starts draining, then I open the fill cap and let it rest allowing air to reduce glugging.
Once it's nearly empty, loosen the oil filter so it can dripple out or pull it out quick. You'll get oil on your hands and long sleeves. Once you remove the oil filter and ensure the gasket from the old filter is not on the filter housing.

Inspect the rubber gaskets on your drain plugs, replace them if needed. Clean them and install them. Torque to 18 ft/lbs. Shallow sockets can fit depending on the torque wrench or use a crow's foot.
Clean the oil filter housing area.

Pre-fill your oil filter 3/4 the way. Dip your finger in the oil and lubricate the seal. Install filter tight by hand.

Remove your dipstick and lift the oil cap up. Add 9 quarts of oil then put the cap on and dipstick back.

Clean yourself off and get in the vehicle. Fully depress the accelerator/gas pedal and start the vehicle. This will cause it to turn the engine without using spark or fuel to get the oil lubricated. Do this about 5 seconds and release your foot from the gas. The vehicle will start.

Once it's running allow it to get up to temperature. After it's up to temperature turn the vehicle off and let it sit 5 minutes. Check the oil level and add oil until it's at the top dip stick hole.

TA DAH!

For non-Z51 and all Corvettes 2001+ you can do the Gas pedal trick. It works on automatic and manuals. Not sure if it works on Early C5 Corvettes, but we aren't in their section.

Edit:

Originally Posted by wrecker3 View Post
I just changed my oil on Sunday and it locks on to your dry-sump tank and will not fall off when adding oil. This funnel works great no mess !!!!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-snip 3 pictures-


I have this same funnel, works great on GM and BMWs! As for the oil cap, where did you get that one?


Last edited by James Dean; 04-16-2019 at 12:21 PM.
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Old 04-16-2019, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by LuisZ51 View Post
Any idea where I can get a 15 mm crows foot in 1/2" drive? My torque wrench is 1/2". I tried all the locals spots but all they have is 3/8" drive.
You don't need one. Just get this handy dandy reduction socket and you can use any of your 3/8" sockets with your 1/2" drive torque wrench.


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Old 04-16-2019, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by wrecker3 View Post
I just changed my oil on Sunday and it locks on to your dry-sump tank and will not fall off when adding oil. This funnel works great no mess !!!!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1







Just ordered.
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Old 04-16-2019, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by LuisZ51 View Post
Any idea where I can get a 15 mm crows foot in 1/2" drive? My torque wrench is 1/2". I tried all the locals spots but all they have is 3/8" drive.
Luiz, stop by your local Harbor Freight., and check these out. I used mine quite a bit, and even at the cheap price they do fine. I used the 1/2" to 3/8" at 100 foot pounds tightening my lugs, and it did the job.

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-h...set-62851.html
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Old 04-16-2019, 04:33 PM
  #16  
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And one more VERY IMPORTANT note - make sure you know what size bottles you are buying! The new 0W-40 ESP Dexos2 comes in either quart or liter bottles. Your dry sump will take 9.8 quarts or 9 liters. I bought a case from our Chevy dealership and didn't pay attention to bottle size (I thought all oil came in quarts).

Like someone else said, "overfilling is a PITA. Don't do that."
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Old 04-16-2019, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Rebel Yell View Post
Luiz, stop by your local Harbor Freight., and check these out. I used mine quite a bit, and even at the cheap price they do fine. I used the 1/2" to 3/8" at 100 foot pounds tightening my lugs, and it did the job.

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-h...set-62851.html
I have many of those. Problem is when you add the adapter aren't you back to square one with not having enough room to wedge the wrench in there?
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Old 04-16-2019, 05:34 PM
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JerryU
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Originally Posted by Not So Fast View Post
A friend has a C-7 Manual and wants to change his own oil but has never done it before. Mine is a 2011 A-6 so I told him I would ask about the procedure with dry sump. Any body that can tell me how to, any different than mine with just 1 plug to pull ??
Thanks
NSF
Here is a 12 page picture/text PDF of my changes in a 2014 Z51 and my current Grand Sport.

http://netwelding.com/Changing_Oil.pdf

Lots of good info in other posts and my PDF includes jacking suggestions as well as oil comments. Several have suggested a 6 point wrench, which I found key as the current dry sumps have an oil cooler that leaves little access room. My side drain plug was so tight (excess or wrong quality tread locker) I was rounding the hex with a quality 12 point 15 mm box wrench!

Last edited by JerryU; 04-16-2019 at 05:36 PM.
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Old 04-16-2019, 08:20 PM
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When I change the oil I drain through both plugs until there is no more dripping, change the filter while waiting and once the oil is drained replace the plugs and add 10 quarts. The actual fill quantity is 9.8 quarts but I run on the track which requires a half quart over fill anyways. After the 10 quarts are in I add another .3 quarts to bring it up to the half quart overfill. When I get back from the track I don't drain the excess.

Bill
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Old 04-17-2019, 08:26 AM
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Oil Caps for 0w-40 Oil

12686472 is for non-dry sump
12680708 is for dry-sump

You can order them from Amazon



Last edited by wrecker3; 04-17-2019 at 08:35 AM.
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