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Here's the first half of the stock off the bandsaw. From solid billets of 6060 Aluminum and 316 Stainless steel. I'll post more vids as I get a chance to upload them.
So, the 5% shifter isn't shorter than stock? I don't want too short...it's threaded for an aftermarket ****? I just got my lower box back from you.
So a lot of people have been asking this same question so here's what I'm doing.
Everyone who's ordered a shifter and anyone who orders one in the next few days will have the option of any height they want. I'll see what the most popular heights are and I'll offer two options going forward.
The purpose of the 5%er is to retain a stock feeling, without all the negative aspects. I made it a tiny bit shorter just because that little bit doesn't make it harder by any noticeable amount, but it does make the throw a tiny bit shorter.
Here are the shifter height options compared to fsctory C5 and C6 shifter assembles. Minus One Inch
and
Minus Two Inches
If you would like something different, different height or different overal height of the **** itself you can let me know when ordering for the next ten orders. I will be taking custom requests at no extra charge for the next ten shifters.
Here are the two available shaft heights compared to the factory C6 shifter.
HEIGHT A HEIGHT B
A Height is a little lower than factory, B Height is lower than that .
FACTORY *****
I'm going to make a shaft tonight to run a factory C6 **** on my shifter. I'll put a couple hundred miles on it tonight and let you know how it does. I think I over emphasized the fact that it spins, it's just different and I wanted to be clear about it. It doesn't spin, it's just able to and you can always just turn it back facing the right way if it did. I'll take a video and let everyone know how it goes. Honestly I overlooked it because I don't like the lopsided **** at all personally.
I got my box back this week and was able to install it this morning. Install is quick and easy. My approach to make lining up the box-to-tunnel bolts perfectly / quickly is to put the stick in 3rd to get the lateral, cinch it hand tight, then work 3/4 a few times to get the box centered. Done in 2 minutes.
Shifter Setup: MGW with Ripper **** on TMODcustoms Z06 hard mount box.
Clutch/Drivetrain: McLeod RST, Fidanza, Tick master, Anti-Venom mod (1 ring)
I thought I had the ultimate C5 stick setup until I installed the box. Instant and notable difference in smoothness and ease of shifting. My chassis has 77k and I thought the box was fine. When I pulled it out today the seal at the rear had blown out, so this upgrade was timely. Shifting is now even lighter and is very positive - which equates to improved speed and confidence. The overall improvement of feel has made driving that much more fun again. Great mod and product!
I was one of those who labored over the decision on types of bushings. Then I realized I had received a Z06 box from the guy who sent it to me on the parts forum here (I sent that one in instead of the stock one from the coupe) and that one is just hard mounted to the tunnel. As the "harshest" option of the three, it can be said without reservation that there is nothing harsh about it and there is nothing to labor over on the bushing decision. You can't go wrong with any option.
Sorry for the delay on the review everyone. I had to finish up the machining on shifters and boxes first and I was dead tired when I was done.
So I put about 450 miles on the shifter with the C6 **** and here's a few things I noticed. After driving sticks forever you know the feeling of a **** coming lose so when I rotates that's your first thought. It's not lose or coming unscrewed, it just spins in the same manner so it gives you that thought at first. It is absolutely more noticeable with an odd shaped or non-round ****. With the round **** of any type I don't notice it once I get over the initial "shock" of thinking the shifter **** is loose. It is odd, that's why I'm making such a big deal out of it, but it was totally out of my mind after a while and I don't think of it much anymore with the round *****.. With the lopsided factory **** it's extenuated because the ball wants to rotate, when your downshifting from 3rd to 2nd aggressively for example. After a while of using it I liked it more when I was driving aggressively, it was like the **** being able to rotate with my hand was a good thing, like it went where I wanted it to go not where I needed to make it go, if that makes any sense. I'm not sure other's will agree with this, when your driving in a more leisurely manner you have to make the effort to keep the **** facing the right way, I didn't like that, but as I just kinda went with it that annoyance went away and I kinda just got used to it. I can't say this will be the case for everyone, it was for me after sitting in traffic for a couple hours. I think it's possible that if your more concerned with keeping the **** factory looking you may be more inclined to dislike it because it's different. I'm not trying to be rude about it, I would simply rather not sell it to someone who isn't going to like it, as opposed to having someone spend their money on it and be upset. That's not what I'm after.
It spin slightly more freely in neutral and between gears. When it's in gear there is pressure on the ball and the bearing so that makes unfortunate sense. I do like the factory **** much better at the lowest setting I offer. I'd prefer it didn't spin, but if I were running a C6 **** the rotation would most defiantly be outweighed by the decrease in slop and increase in precision and all around great feel that the bearing mounted shifter offers, in my opinion. The shifter as a whole is defiantly better with a round ****, that's what I think. I don't know if everyone will agree with me, I bias towards performance and I don't expect everyone to agree with my opinions, maybe no one will. I'm just trying to give the best accounting of my experience, it's how I feel truthfully. At the end of the day I would say that if you want a stock feeling and a stock look this may not be for you, just know that it is significantly tighter and more precise feeling that a factory shifter, even more so while coupled with my lower box. The combination of the two I don't think can be beat, especially for the money.
I did not try the C5 ****, I'm not going to unless people order it that way. I can tell you that because it is directional, but not lopsided like the C6 ****, that it will not be as inclined to spin, it will be much more like a round **** of any kind with the exception that it may need to be manually rotated back to being clocked the correct way (facing forward).
As always, I am interested in everyone's feedback, let me know what questions you have, I'm happy to answer anything I can. Here's a few pics form the machining process.
09-16-2018, 12:23 AM
