2014 Corvette Stingray C7 Rear Bumper Removal
#61
Cruising
Member Since: Jan 2017
Location: San Diego California
Posts: 11
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Thank you!!
Used your instructions to remove the bumper and install a Z51 spoiler. You saved me $340! The dealer wanted to charge me $350 but I spent $10 on the drill bit and the pry tool! Thanks again!
#62
Tutorial Printable Version
This tutorial helped me tremendously and to say thanks, I made a downloadable / printable PDF version of the source document. By no means I take credit for the tutorial. Thanks again for a great write.
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#63
Instructor
I have to adjust the passenger lower side gap. Seems to be rubbing. Is there an adjustment in there once it is pulled apart??
#64
Just installed Z06 clear tail lights using this write up. The hatch cable does not need to be removed. Have the same issue with alignment now, working on that. Mine is the opposite of the gentlemen above where my gap is bigger at the top and ok on the bottom.
Last edited by vxplt; 11-20-2017 at 11:32 PM. Reason: Spelling
#66
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Stingray30266 (11-21-2017)
#68
Advanced
We have had many requests asking how to remove the rear bumper on your C7. We have compiled a quick run through of how to do so. Along the way if you have any pointers please feel free to add to them based on your experience with the removal. This is a fairly easy process and only requires two people when it comes time for the bumper to actually to be removed. Make sure to have a soft area to set the bumper on.
First, you want to start off by loosening the interior trim panel by pulling towards the front of the vehicle. You do not want to remove this completely as it is not necessary. You are just loosening it to reveal the cable that attaches to your trunk latch. Once you locate this, you must remove it from the latch.
Attachment 48139921
Next you want to remove the rubber gasket trim piece that covers the Torx screws that you need to remove. This is done by grabbing it and giving it a wiggle. You should be able to remove the entire trim piece by doing so. If it does not wiggle out, a flat head screw driver will help by depressing the tabs to they come out easier. Once this trim piece is removed, you will see the T15 screws that need to be removed.
Attachment 48139922
After you remove the t15 screws along the top, it is time to start removing fasteners towards the bottom. In order to do this, remove your rear license plate. You will reveal two 10mm bolts. Remove these.
Attachment 48139923
Once those two bolts behind the license plate are removed there are two additional 10mm bolts that also need to be removed that are located just above the exhaust tip. You will most likely need a short 6 inch extension for these.
Attachment 48139924
Next, way at the bottom of the bumper there will be a total of 10 7mm bolts that need to be removed. 5 on the left and 5 on the right.
Attachment 48139925
Once the 7mm bolts on the bottom of the bumper are removed the next step will be to remove the mudflaps that are just snapped into the bumper. It is best to use a plastic pry tool to get this started then once it is started you can pull the rest off by hand. After this mudflap is removed, it will reveal two t15 torx screws. Remove these as well.
Attachment 48139926
Attachment 48139927
This next step is a little tedious. You need a small tool that has a hook on it. You want to hook the tool in the mesh part of the bezel around your taillights. Pulling back, the corner will release. Once the corner is released you will be able to persuade the rest of the bezel out. Do this same step for the other side.
Attachment 48139928
Now that the bezel is out, you will reveal a t15 torx screw. Remove that screw. You want to repeat this for the other side as well.
So all of the bolts are removed. What do you do next? This is when you want to call over a neighbor to give you a hand. One person should be on each side of the car. Grab the bumper and pull straight back. Don't be afraid. It will seem like you are breaking stuff but you are not. Once you pull back, you will need to fish the rest of the cable out that was connected to your trunk latch. In additions to this there are two electrical connectors that also need to be disconnected. After this is all done, your bumper is free.
First, you want to start off by loosening the interior trim panel by pulling towards the front of the vehicle. You do not want to remove this completely as it is not necessary. You are just loosening it to reveal the cable that attaches to your trunk latch. Once you locate this, you must remove it from the latch.
Attachment 48139921
Next you want to remove the rubber gasket trim piece that covers the Torx screws that you need to remove. This is done by grabbing it and giving it a wiggle. You should be able to remove the entire trim piece by doing so. If it does not wiggle out, a flat head screw driver will help by depressing the tabs to they come out easier. Once this trim piece is removed, you will see the T15 screws that need to be removed.
Attachment 48139922
After you remove the t15 screws along the top, it is time to start removing fasteners towards the bottom. In order to do this, remove your rear license plate. You will reveal two 10mm bolts. Remove these.
Attachment 48139923
Once those two bolts behind the license plate are removed there are two additional 10mm bolts that also need to be removed that are located just above the exhaust tip. You will most likely need a short 6 inch extension for these.
Attachment 48139924
Next, way at the bottom of the bumper there will be a total of 10 7mm bolts that need to be removed. 5 on the left and 5 on the right.
Attachment 48139925
Once the 7mm bolts on the bottom of the bumper are removed the next step will be to remove the mudflaps that are just snapped into the bumper. It is best to use a plastic pry tool to get this started then once it is started you can pull the rest off by hand. After this mudflap is removed, it will reveal two t15 torx screws. Remove these as well.
Attachment 48139926
Attachment 48139927
This next step is a little tedious. You need a small tool that has a hook on it. You want to hook the tool in the mesh part of the bezel around your taillights. Pulling back, the corner will release. Once the corner is released you will be able to persuade the rest of the bezel out. Do this same step for the other side.
Attachment 48139928
Now that the bezel is out, you will reveal a t15 torx screw. Remove that screw. You want to repeat this for the other side as well.
So all of the bolts are removed. What do you do next? This is when you want to call over a neighbor to give you a hand. One person should be on each side of the car. Grab the bumper and pull straight back. Don't be afraid. It will seem like you are breaking stuff but you are not. Once you pull back, you will need to fish the rest of the cable out that was connected to your trunk latch. In additions to this there are two electrical connectors that also need to be disconnected. After this is all done, your bumper is free.
AS an FYI - For those who don't have a pick tool (like me), you can use a zip tie. What I did was took a plastic zip tie and bent it a few times and ran it thru the vent holes. Brought it back thru another vent hole and made a nice loop with the zip tie. Then tugged on it gently. Worked like a charm.
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#69
Instructor
So on my passenger side at the bottom the 2 panels are touching. If I am reading this right the whole rear bumper has to be removed to adjust this??? If not and anyone knows another way it would be much appreciated
#70
Advanced
I also can confirm that the hatch cable does NOT need to be removed. I was able to install my smoked z06 tail lamps and smoked high lamp without having to remove the whole bumper.
#71
Burning Brakes
I hope this helps.
I am at the point of reinstalling the bumper and am slower then most but decided to stop for the day after I got the spoiler installed. In the morning I want to clean everything including the seams and then reinstall. I was worried about how the phase 3 spoiler look would but, no more - it has made the car look aggressive and love it. Will take some pics of it and the tort screws in question tomorrow. Great post.
Last edited by MrGary2011; 12-31-2017 at 01:18 AM.
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danh63 (12-31-2017)
#73
I did the same thing. Watched a video from a dealership on how to install a Z51 spoiler in 20 minutes. Took me and my neighbor 4-hrs.,,,LOL. Took 30-min to just get the template lined up and taped! Hardest part was reinstalling and lining up the bumper!
#74
I pulled the bumper on my 2019 for a little customization:
carbon fiber spoiler
blacked out tail lights
moved rear CORVETTE lettering
changed paint scheme on lower fascia
triple diffuser
lighted and blacked out reflectors
lights in quarter panels and across exhaust tips
carbon fiber spoiler
blacked out tail lights
moved rear CORVETTE lettering
changed paint scheme on lower fascia
triple diffuser
lighted and blacked out reflectors
lights in quarter panels and across exhaust tips
#75
Instructor
Having removed the rear bumper a few times, I would say that the best way to remove the tail light bezel is to use a trim tool. Place some painters tape at the inner most section on the bottom, and slide the trim tool in there. Once you get one tab out, you can slowly remove the rest, just using your hands, by pushing down and out (for top of trim piece) and pushing up and out (for bottom of trim piece). Those tabs are in there pretty good, and if it has never been removed, using the hook tool can easily damage the plastic mesh and even the fins (ask me how I know). Also, when you are putting the rear bumper back on, make sure you check the orange tabs (second picture) to ensure they are in the right position, as they easily get turned when you remove it, which likely is the reason you saw a previous poster with some gap issues.
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17 Z06/Z07 (07-03-2023)