IF you have REMOVED stock seats in the Stingray-please read
03-04-2014, 07:26 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
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IF you have REMOVED stock seats in the Stingray-please read
I am switching out my stock seats for the competition seats (complete assembly) I think its just 4 bolts and elec connectors but any tips for removal and change out are appreciated. I have the coupe do you take them out the opening in the roof or try to go out door without scraping sills. How many elec connectors are their (for sure) how many bolts? anything else I should know to make it easier, THANK YOU
03-04-2014, 08:29 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
4 bolts, a handful (3 I think) of plugs and you pull them out carefully through the door. Once you remove the bolts, lean the seat back forward. Then disconnect the battery as there are airbags in the seats. Then lift the back end of the seat off the studs in the floor and disconnect the plugs. From there lift the seat straight up and out. Having the seat back as far forward as possible will help get it through the door opening easier. It shouldn't take more than 5-10 minutes per seat.
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Avanti (12-10-2018)
03-04-2014, 08:49 PM
#3
Drifting
4 15MM nuts, one large harness plug under the front of the seat and then there is a plastic retainer that is push pinned under there to the seat frame you will have to pull out. Unless you want to take all the plastic out behind the seat where the seat belt/shoulder harness goes and unbolt it from the body, you can unbolt the seat belt part of it from the bottom of the seat, it is a torx bolt a larger one (55-60 if I remember but not sure) you have to hold back the plastic molding to get the torx socket in there it's a tight fit but the plastic want break if you are easy with it. Otherwise you would have to remove the entire plastic molding on the side of the seat which would require removing all the electric seat controls buttons. They are very hard to get off without damaging the plastic trim. There will also be one electrical plug going to this too, it's a small push on 2 wire connector. As mentioned above disconnect the battery before starting the job due to the air bags in the seat bolsters. I would place a thick blanket completely over the door jam area and watch out for the steering wheel even with it all the way up it is very easy the nick it with the seat rails. It would be easier to pull the roof panel for more clearance but do this before you unhook the battery so you can operate the windows. The seat weighs 60lbs 
(3LT with heating and cooling) so she ain't light. 
. It's a tight squeeze but she will come out. 
(3LT with heating and cooling) so she ain't light. . It's a tight squeeze but she will come out.
03-04-2014, 09:41 PM
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Melting Slicks
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thank you for the help, where is the battery on z51
How do I disconnect the battery on the Z51 model, thanks for all the help
4 15MM nuts, one large harness plug under the front of the seat and then there is a plastic retainer that is push pinned under there to the seat frame you will have to pull out. Unless you want to take all the plastic out behind the seat where the seat belt/shoulder harness goes and unbolt it from the body, you can unbolt the seat belt part of it from the bottom of the seat, it is a torx bolt a larger one (55-60 if I remember but not sure) you have to hold back the plastic molding to get the torx socket in there it's a tight fit but the plastic want break if you are easy with it. Otherwise you would have to remove the entire plastic molding on the side of the seat which would require removing all the electric seat controls buttons. They are very hard to get off without damaging the plastic trim. There will also be one electrical plug going to this too, it's a small push on 2 wire connector. As mentioned above disconnect the battery before starting the job due to the air bags in the seat bolsters. I would place a thick blanket completely over the door jam area and watch out for the steering wheel even with it all the way up it is very easy the nick it with the seat rails. It would be easier to pull the roof panel for more clearance but do this before you unhook the battery so you can operate the windows. The seat weighs 60lbs (3LT with heating and cooling) so she ain't light. . It's a tight squeeze but she will come out.
(3LT with heating and cooling) so she ain't light. . It's a tight squeeze but she will come out.
03-04-2014, 10:12 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
The battery is located under the carpet in the trunk on the passenger side. The carpet is kind of tucked under the rear trim panels pull. Its a bit of a pain but it just pulls out from under the rear trim and you can lift it up along the back edge to access the battery and fuses.
03-05-2014, 12:47 AM
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Thanks for this info. Keeping all these how-to's on file.
03-05-2014, 12:57 AM
#8
Drifting
There is 1 trim screw that is attached to the back of the seat trim, remove it and then you can flex out the plastic trim enough to get a torx socket in there to remove the one loctited bolt that holds the belt to the seat. It is pretty tight and will be tight all the way out due to the loctite. This is on a GT seat but I would think they are all the same but I am not positive.
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Bischof (11-10-2015)
03-05-2014, 06:57 PM
#14
Drifting
If you try to remove the front seat outer cushion cover to access the torx bolt that holds the seat belt to the seat, you will be running the risk of replacing it because the seat control buttons are pressed on very tight. Any attempt to pry them will damage the cover. This is why I would recommend just removing the one bolt at the rear of the seat and then you can access the torx bolt. If you decide to remove that cover you better wrap your trim tool with blue masking tape or protect the cover someway. Just my opinion I have already had the seat in and out of my car.
03-05-2014, 07:02 PM
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If you try to remove the front seat outer cushion cover to access the torx bolt that holds the seat belt to the seat, you will be running the risk of replacing it because the seat control buttons are pressed on very tight. Any attempt to pry them will damage the cover. This is why I would recommend just removing the one bolt at the rear of the seat and then you can access the torx bolt. If you decide to remove that cover you better wrap your trim tool with blue masking tape or protect the cover someway. Just my opinion I have already had the seat in and out of my car.
I will get to that as soon as I can tonight.
03-05-2014, 07:06 PM
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
Well, I felt bad, so I stayed at work and got it... Damn you! (just kidding)
You will have to answer to the other angry villagers in my un-boxing thread, though, waiting for pics.
You will have to answer to the other angry villagers in my un-boxing thread, though, waiting for pics.
03-05-2014, 09:58 PM
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03-05-2014, 11:29 PM
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
You're very welcome.
Out of curiosity, how are this many of you getting conversion kits? I thought they were under heavy constraint. Other than those of you doing dealer swaps, could someone let me know what the price to buy the Comp seats was? The only down side to doing this is storing the huge 3LT seats.
Out of curiosity, how are this many of you getting conversion kits? I thought they were under heavy constraint. Other than those of you doing dealer swaps, could someone let me know what the price to buy the Comp seats was? The only down side to doing this is storing the huge 3LT seats.