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Old 02-20-2015, 01:14 PM
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How-To: Drain/Fill Engine Oil & Replace Oil Filter (Dry Sump) + Specs

Old 05-16-2015, 10:59 PM
  #21  
Jedi-Jurist
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St. Jude Donor '15
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Thanks for posting all these how-to's, we really do appreciate it. Can anyone tell me what tools I'll need before starting this? Specifically, what do you use to remove and then accurately torque the filter? Links will be appreciated! Thank you.
Old 05-17-2015, 06:24 PM
  #22  
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You'll need either a 15mm socket and socket wrench, or a plain 15mm wrench (ratcheting is even better) to break the bolts.

To remove the filter, you should get a quality tool instead of the cheap $4-$5 cast parts from AutoZone, etc.

Here's a socket version:
Amazon.com: Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool: Automotive Amazon.com: Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool: Automotive

Here's a strap version:
Amazon.com: Lisle 53500 Standard Swivel Grip Oil Filter Wrench: Automotive Amazon.com: Lisle 53500 Standard Swivel Grip Oil Filter Wrench: Automotive

Here's a removal tool for stubborn filters:
Amazon.com: TEKTON 5866 12-Inch Oil Filter Pliers: Home Improvement Amazon.com: TEKTON 5866 12-Inch Oil Filter Pliers: Home Improvement


I recommend the socket version since you can apply the appropriate torque level to the filter upon replacement.

And obviously, you will need the proper pan(s) etc. to catch the oil, but that's obviously implied.
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Old 05-17-2015, 09:09 PM
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Hi Theta, I GOT A 15 Z51 ORDERED FROM AN OUT OF STATE DEALER .could you tell me if there is any I have to do with first oil change or just treat it as any other change. Mileage etc
Old 05-17-2015, 09:12 PM
  #24  
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I'm paranoid and like to change out the first (factory fill) at around 300-400 miles in case of any shavings, larger particles, etc. Quite a few do the same around the 500 mile mark, so that's probably more sane. By changing mine very early, I was able to detect the beginning signs of a serious failure, but it wasn't apparent until the engine was being taken apart for upgrades. Go figure.

Nothing special about the first one - if you want to put magnetic drain plugs in, or use a magnetic wrap on the filter, go right ahead.
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Old 05-17-2015, 09:27 PM
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Theta, Thank you
Old 05-17-2015, 11:37 PM
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Thank you, Theta.
Old 05-17-2015, 11:37 PM
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My pleasure, guys.
Old 05-28-2015, 11:47 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Theta
You'll need either a 15mm socket and socket wrench, or a plain 15mm wrench (ratcheting is even better) to break the bolts.

To remove the filter, you should get a quality tool instead of the cheap $4-$5 cast parts from AutoZone, etc.

Here's a socket version: Amazon.com: Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool: Automotive

Here's a strap version: Amazon.com: Lisle 53500 Standard Swivel Grip Oil Filter Wrench: Automotive

Here's a removal tool for stubborn filters: Amazon.com: TEKTON 5866 12-Inch Oil Filter Pliers: Home Improvement


I recommend the socket version since you can apply the appropriate torque level to the filter upon replacement.

And obviously, you will need the proper pan(s) etc. to catch the oil, but that's obviously implied.
So I finally did the oil change last night and had three small issues. First, the dealer must have over-tightened the bolts as they were not easy to get loose. Second, the lower of the two bolts is in such a tight spot that I could not get the torque wrench in there (I guestimated). I'm thinking I must need a VERY shallow 15mm socket to get clearance (GM should have moved this somewhere else). Third, the socket tool you recommended for the oil filter worked great getting it off, but when you try to tighten it, the design is such that it opens up on you. Basically, when you turn left, it contracts, but when you turn right it expands. Maybe I did something wrong, but I could not torque the oil filter either due to this.

Any help you can give would be very appreciated! Thanks again.
Old 05-29-2015, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by NoOne
What is a Z52 option?


I only have Z51, I feel cheated
Yeah, me too! Why does it say z52, wasn't that a c4 code or something?
Old 05-29-2015, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by halt00
Yeah, me too! Why does it say z52, wasn't that a c4 code or something?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...signation.html
Old 05-31-2015, 10:19 PM
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To correctly torque the oil filter, you will need this tool:

K-D Tools 2790 End Cap Oil Filter Wrench:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SR4MW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SR4MW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Fit is perfect on the AC Delco filter.

Still searching for a solution to torque the lower of the two drain bolts. I cannot find a socket shallow enough to get clearance in there, even with a small socket torque wrench. Any advice on that would be much appreciated.

On another note, how do you all feel about saving barely used oil and putting it back in the car later? I track the car regularly, and the oil in between might see 500-1000 miles at the most. I wouldn't save the track oil, but I am thinking of reusing the 5w-30 (keeping it in a clean container, of course).
Old 06-01-2015, 09:29 AM
  #32  
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Does the Corvette come with magnetic drain plugs?
Old 06-03-2015, 01:36 AM
  #33  
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Default Filter removal tool (super tight)

The apes at the dealer didn't use any oil on the seal when installing the oil filter on my Z51 (2014 with M7). I could not get the filter off using normal tools partially due to the lack of space around the filter.

I found this tool which solved the problem and will work (imo) on any vehicle.

Amazon.com: Neiko 03421A Auto Adjustable Universal Oil Filter Wrench with 3 Jaws: Automotive Amazon.com: Neiko 03421A Auto Adjustable Universal Oil Filter Wrench with 3 Jaws: Automotive

Neiko 03421A Auto Adjustable Universal Oil Filter Wrench with 3 Jaws

With this removal tool you can pretty much install your filter as tight as you like without worry about removal!

What makes it ideal is it attaches to the bottom of the filter where there is room and you can use a large wratching type wrench for removal...

After I got the filter off I had to then remove the old o-ring from the old filter as it was still stuck to the engine (again the dealer did not follow the instructions and lube the filter prior to install).
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Old 06-03-2015, 01:45 AM
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Originally Posted by juanvaldez
Does the Corvette come with magnetic drain plugs?
No. If you'd like to switch at the next change, you can use one short magnetic plug and one longer plug.

I use an M12 x 1.75 x 20mm for the shorter, and an M12 x 1.75 x 30mm for the longer.

They generally have crap on them when draining, so they do work to a degree. Filter wraps do tend to work better for that sort of thing, though.
Old 06-15-2015, 10:11 PM
  #35  
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16
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I'm going to be doing my own oil changes because of the different viscosity requirements between street and track usage, and also because I can get Mobil 1 in 5 quart containers dirt cheap on-line with free delivery to my door.

My question concerns the two drain plug seals. Does anyone use new ones at every oil change, or can they be reused a few times?

Bill
Old 06-15-2015, 10:30 PM
  #36  
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They can be re-used so long as the seal is still viable. Per GM's techlink:

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Old 06-15-2015, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Theta
They can be re-used so long as the seal is still viable.
Thanks, this is my first 'vette, and I haven't changed my own oil since my original '62 Porsche 356B. Sure is fun to get back into serious sports car mania...
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To How-To: Drain/Fill Engine Oil & Replace Oil Filter (Dry Sump) + Specs

Old 11-07-2015, 03:01 PM
  #38  
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Sorry for resurrecting this one - but I just wanted to caution that the 22 ft/lb is a good recommendation. I didn't follow it last time and the filter did leak some oil around it. Nothing too severe.
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Old 11-07-2015, 10:04 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 15C7Z51
Change my oil before and after track - all went well. I was surprised by 22 lb ft for filter- tough to tell but seemed like at least 3 full rotations after gasket made contact. I am use to the 1 turn after gasket contact. Worked fine at 22 lb ft but I was anxious that was overly tight and might compress gasket too much and leak. It didn't
For whatever reason the 1st time I changed oil (almost two years go now in my September 2013 build C7) I tried using a torque wrench. I used a wrench (socket) that fits the whole bottom of the filter so the torque reading was accurate. Did not get close to 22 ft-lbs when I clearly saw that it would be much more than the typical, ~1 turn past the gasket touching! Stopped and installed with my usual ~1 turn and when it feels right! Have done that for several oil changes and it has been fine, not leaks. There is nothing unusual about the filter or gasket. I put a small amount of oil on the rubber gasket from the oil used to partially fill the filter, as I have done for many years on my other Vettes and other cars. IMO, 22 ft-lbs is excessive and could distort the gasket and make future removal difficult. However to each his own.

Last edited by JerryU; 11-07-2015 at 10:10 PM.
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:00 PM
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Help..I can't find the trip on the DIC..

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