Theta

I will take a look into the progress of that. I have to remember back to what we discussed regarding how the valves acted when exposed to voltage directly.

The last time I looked into it, we were talking about using a rather large PWM generator on a 12v relay. Kind of stepped out after that, so I'll need to open that back up and look around.

Theta

Finally cleaned up the parts section, so that's looking good - alternatives added, and the list looks complete. Back to full emphasis on the wiring guide, then back again to how to wire in the resistor - that's going to be fun without soldering.

FYREANT

Awesome. thanks man. I can try to help anyway possible, though I am not an electrical engineer, I've got a can-do attitude lol

meyerweb

Looking good, Theta. I like what you did with the shrink wrap to help keep that single lug connection in place. That didn't look very stable otherwise.

MIGHTYM0USE

pardon my ignorance, but ive seen this topic develop since the '14 dropped and the 'word' all along was that you couldn't do it like you could the c6 and here i see it is basically identical situation, remove fuse, add switch (and fuse).

what did i miss? sorry for not reading all pages.

now what I need to know is how to add or activate the wiring for a non npp car to run npp mufflers please and thanks

Theta

Nothing, really. On page 2, I made reference to the fact that someone did nearly the exact same thing 8 years ago. So, I'm not trying to re-invent the wheel. Just different sizes of things, part numbers - different way to skin another similar cat.

I could do about 20 of these mods in the time it's taken me to do the write-up. Pictures, descriptions, part numbers, etc. are all a pretty big pain to organize into one coherent thread that anyone here can easily follow. Sometimes it's just a matter of sitting down and copying everything from your brain onto paper (or bits in this case) - I'm sure you know this from your catch can instructions, etc.

This is a pretty hot topic - over the last year, I've probably gotten 30 PMs regarding this. It's the same thing FYREANT was hoping for, and I'd like to do this next. I need a valve to work with, and it will take a little time. We can't do anything with the CCM, so it will have to be a switch and PWM generator relay.
.

grandpawmoses

Theta,
Have you looked at the installation video of the "Curb Alert"? It shows routing wires from the under hood fuse box back into the cabin without removing any bolts. Look at it from the 8:45 through the 9:30.

Theta

I've seen that method used on a few different installs now, but I loathe the idea of sending voltage around body panels (even when hidden) instead of using proper routing through the firewall. It's a little harder to get it through the passenger side opening of that area, but not impossible.

Perhaps I can have this as an option for people who don't want to remove the wheel liner, as it will also require the wheel to come out (and a jack needs to be added to the parts required list in doing that).

I guess it comes down to what people would rather do - spend more time on the wheel well/firewall method, or less time on the 'outside the car' method. Always compromises with any method, unfortunately...

grandpawmoses

I think if I encase mine in 1/4" flexible plastic conduit from the switch to the fuse box (plus it's fuse protected) it'll be okay.
One more thing I thought of.....when you plug the "add a circuit" into the fuse box, it could plug in one of two different ways (180 degree rotation). If plugged in the wrong way, the fuse won't be on the +12V lead, that is, the fuse won't be on the battery side of the switch. I guess I said that right. The circuit would function correctly either way but the fuse would be in place after the added switch circuit.
(Maybe I better go sit down).

Theta

Absolutely valid thought. Before posting those installation pictures, I tested the circuit to find the 'common' +12v, and the left side is hot. This is much better than having the right hot, as that would really have caused some ugly routing issues flipping the assembly upside down!

Theta

Good news also on the NPP conversion front - looks like I'll be able to move forward on that research shortly. I have everything drawn up and the proof of concept completed.

Now, to get everything in front of me with the right equipment...

But first, I need to finish up this install thread!

grandpawmoses

I was sure you had. Just wanted to throw that out there in case someone following your work decided they might plug it in the other way. Thanks again for the good work. We all know it took a lot of your time and we appreciate it.
GPM

ckosiek

Sorry if this sounds dumb, but how does this mod differ from the sound management options offered in the driving mode menu on the touchscreen?
Thanks,
Charlie

xp800

Some light reading:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ck-result.html

Theta

3pitbulls

I'm really considering this on my new Z51 NPP c7..Theta can you help me on finishing up the rest of wiring going to switch. ..inside the car...thanks..

Theta

Sorry, doing that now - spent yesterday designing a circuit and buying new lab equipment to make the non-NPP to NPP mod (and in the process, a 3-position full-control circuit for the racing guys) a reality.

meyerweb

Don't apologize. You're doing us all a big favor. We can wait.

grandpawmoses

Well, I ran in to a problem with the switch location. I had to order the "add-a-circuit" so I decided to go ahead and install the wiring and the switch (I chose the same switch and location you are using). The problem is that when the infotainment screen goes down, it hits the switch. When the infotainment screen down, there's 1/2 inch clearance from it to the little side panel where I mounted the switch. I don't see much room to move the switch down (allowing for the console left side trim overlapping the little side panel). I'm going to take a fresh look at it in the morning & see what I come up with.

Theta

I'm actually fighting that now. The solution I'm working on now involves flag disconnects. Trim the leads and use flags - that gives you the extra space. Found flags at AutoZone, as well.

That's that kind of thing that makes these take forever - we find out weird stuff like this along the way. The screen shouldn't be that far back, but it looks like it turns in a bit.