jhauswirth

I had mine in the shop once, it took me over 2 weeks just to get an appointment for them to look at it. And then they told me they didn't have time to look at it that day once I got it there. During that 2+ week wait I read all these AFM actuator posts and came to the conclusion this problem isn't going to be solved easily.

I ended up pulling fuse 32 to disable the actuators, so no more banging. And, to me, I can't tell a difference in exhaust sound. I check the codes occasionally to make sure nothing new has popped up since the CEL is always on. I also went to the track again with fuse 32 pulled and had zero problems.

What I'd really like to know is if you pull 32 before going on the track so that the actuators don't move while they're too hot and then put the fuse back after the car cools off, will that help prevent the actuators from being damaged. I'm going to try this out if I can get the dealer to replace the actuators.

djnice

Pretty sure the actuators will fry whether the fuse is in or out. Maybe install cutouts upstream of the actuators and go open exhaust out the sides.

X25

I probably have said it too many times, but it feels appropriate to remind again: leaving the actuators (with their butterflies) dangling next to the exhaust works. I've done countless track days in various conditions, and never had a problem:
How-To: Eliminate AFM actuator melting issue for aggressive/track driving

lv2jmp

A. Yes, they replace them. But it generally takes two weeks. This last time I had the problem appear at CoTA in Sept, took the car to the dealer, and (cutting a long rant short), I got my car back in time to get it tech inspected at Flamingo Auto, and drove it to MSR @ Cresson the next day. In the course of one month, my car was in my garage for 4 days total.

And it came back from MSR with the problem, so it is back at the dealer.

@X25, I read your post on how to eliminate this, but it requires voiding my warranty. I have 6k miles on the car; I'm not ready to start cutting. Unfortunately, I have to consider this a non-solution. But perhaps my tolerance of track-dealer-track-dealer will persuade me to listen to reason.

I am disappointed that this track beast of a car (2:37 @ CoTA, 2:37 @ MSR 3.1) continues to break. Paddles are great for the track, I have zero issues with my A8 temps (I use manual mode exclusively, and select my own shift points). So why AFM is deleted from M7 because it is more "track-oriented" is a mystery to me.

daleong

Why don't you try the solution BaylorCorvette did? This doesn't sound like something that would void the warranty and it works.

"A GM engineer at one of the IMSA races last year told me the '16's had the "upgraded part" in them. If true, I ruined one at a track event last year. So what I did is unbolt the AFM actuators, and put several washers in between them and the flange they mount to to act as a spacer/heat sink. It also requires longer bolts but I just got those at Home Depot. So far the mod has worked, and I've put a few hundred track miles on the car since I did this. Of course the AFM actuators no longer function correctly but not a problem for me since I never use Eco mode in my M7. "

AKKutz

Well, I'm learning things. I thought that the GS didn't have the AFM actuators installed. I was going to look at a GS tomorrow, but now I think I'll just keep my car.

X25

Manual transmission Z51/GS/Z06 for 2017+ don't have it.

AKKutz

Okay, So I was right in my thoughts.... downside, local dealer has killer pricing on 2017 GS models, but all are A8's.

RapidC84B

Ok so I have a '14 Stingray now... has anyone made a module to plug into them to fool the computer? I don't want to hack the exhaust.

djnice

These guys made delete modules previously. http://efi-tuning.net/ Not sure if they still do.

daleong

No they don't anymore. I was told that HP Tuners now allows the error codes that happen when you remove the AFM actuators to be tuned out via the FSCM module.

RapidC84B

I really don't want to tune the car as I have 1.5 years of powertrain warranty left.

daleong

Fair point.. same reason why I haven't tuned mine as yet. If I break my AFM valves I will do the fix that BaylorCorvette did.

FYREANT

I was told this as well. Though I can't seem to figure out how to do it in HPT. The AFM codes are B-level and the FSCM appears to only show C level and higher codes for me. I'm sure i'm just doing it wrong..

Jhanpa4

Does anyone have the contact to the GM rep here on the forum? My AFM valves failed at the track and the shop here doesn’t want to swap them under warranty because I went to the track and they failed there from the trans overheating

daleong

Maybe if you reach out to EFI Tuning on their Facebook page, he can help you. Just a thought..

FYREANT

Yea I have the contact info for the guy at EFI that knows all this stuff.. I just don't want to bother him too much lol. I'm going to take the car out tonight or tomorrow with the valves disconnected (fuse #32 pulled) and let it generate the codes and then go in and see if I can get them to disable in HPT. If not, then I may reach out after trying and failing.

daleong

Let me know if you figure it out.. i'd like to get mines tuned out at some point also.

FYREANT

Pretty sure I figured it out. Will need a couple days to drive around and confirm. Its important to note that it require tuning the FSCM (C304 on the controller list) which is a seperate computer from the ECM. As a result it requires 2 extra HPT credits to tune that computer.

FYREANT

I figured out how to actually tune the AFM valves out. Thanks to TSloper for his help with this. Check out my guide:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...hp-tuners.html

Ant