FYREANT

Good tip for those coming into this guide. I actually made sure to do this myself during the install for fear that it would happen lol

imxz28

Pacing the floor here waiting for your results HA!!
Be sure to post here when you have something for us.

FYREANT

Haha i figured you'd be anxious, Clark! I ended up working late last night and didn't get a chance to call Julio. Hoping to call him after work today. I ended up working late last night and didn't get a chance to call Julio. Hoping to call him after work today. I promise I'll post here as soon as I get the info! Lol

FYREANT

ok guys, instructions for adding a second meth nozzle kit have been added to the end of post #3. Please let me know if you have any questions about it and hope it helps some of you with your install!

Ant

TurboTnZ06

It happened to me, the one line I didn't zip tie, the MAP sensor, blew off, no alky, went lean. Even though the lines are stupid tight, after a year or two, the zip tie ensures the rubber stays tight on each fitting.

TurboTnZ06

A lot of Turbo Buick guys have been converting every boost line to push lock lines.

Julio

Man just saw this post.. wanted to add if it helps, anyone need a decal to make a custom panel just call..

Julio

Box comes apart pretty easy.. lay the decal.. drill through plastic.

HTH

robert miller

Great work as always Julio..

CDH76

FYI for new people installing alky kit first time. The dial thing is a set it and forget it kind of deal. If you don't want to mount it some where visible or run it to a fancy place be used its a lot of work, don't think you'll have to always have access to this dial. I have mine tucked under the steering wheel area by floor. If I need it I just slide it out. Fits perfect

FYREANT

Thanks, Julio! If you see anything in my how-to guide that needs correcting just let me know!

Anthony

Julio

No issues at all. When i've done the install I mount the relay under the subwoofer box using the 10MM nut under it to hold down the relay. But that won't offer any advantage either way, just hides the particular part. I also find that there is a nice big area above the kick panel going towards the divers fender, like a slot in the body to tuck the MAP sensor and controller. I like your place too under the steering column too.. its all good.

I usually T into the blow off valve used on most SC kits. You went the catch can. Zip ties work great on keeping hoses from popping off.

Great job on install. I'll add a self tapping screw to the kit packing, add some more heat shrink, and more 5/32 washer tubing to get the boost signal for the MAP. Keeps guys from going to auto parts stores for trivial stuff.

keithafd

would you expand more on how you install alky control box and Gage in the hidden compartment

FYREANT

That would be it's own thread for another how-to guide. It requires disassembly of a lot of the interior components for this. I'm not sure if anyone else has done a DIY on the interior or not yet. I may do one at some point if not.

blown81bu

these intructions really helped me with my install this weekend...thankyou Ant and Julio for a really nice job on the kit
Like to update a few things cause a 2016 is different in some areas is what i found or it could be because i have every single option..idk
The ground for the relay dont exist I just extended the ground wire and right to a 10mm nut on the negative side battery
The side area in the fender for access to inside is there but a harness runs through there and would make it very complicated to install any wire through there..BUT there is an access area GM did a nice job towards front of area above foot rest they give u a precut piece of material u just pop out and Bingo an easier spot to access the fender or even under hood..Just use your step drill to 1" and add a grommet..great for wideband wiring too
Also when mounting the meth pump the ground for that i just removed the 8 mm bolt with a 13 mm socket and used a larger lug with a washer for ground..no drilling or ever coming loose and the area is factory ground polished...

hope this helps some with the 16s or maybe the fully loaded c7s

Paul Ferrucci 2016 Procharged Z51 A8

scottybazo

probably a silly question,but since the charge pipe is curved,do i have to weld in a bung for the nozzle,or will just securing the two halves,suffice,and seal up correctly?? Thanks

imxz28

I welded my relocated IAT and the nozzle sealed up good with the supplied hardware. See photos

agbullet

Just finishing up my install too! The instructions & PICS were awesome!! Thanks Fyreant for putting this all together and Julio for a great job on the kit. Also special thanks to blown81bu for the many texts & pics from your install!!

By the way, there's no access above foot rest on 2015's!! Wonder if its due to A8 vs M7 (clutch cable) or GM got smart for 2016. Everything else was the same as Fyreant's install. Like the idea to plumb into blow-off valve hose and used the same pump ground as blown81bu. Now to finish a pulley change & FSP breather install and find a place to bring in wideband wiring. Hopefully without drilling!

CDH76

Sorry for the late response. You've probably already done your install but to answer your question, no bung needed. The washers that come with the alky kit have seals that do the job fine.

As you can see in this pic I don't have a bung for the IAT sensor or the alky nozzle.

teddyca

So I have waited months to take on this task. I don't even have the blower installed yet but this was a more tedious install so I decided to take it on first. So I have spent an hour spilling washer fluid everywhere and removing a ton of bolts. Note if you have a kit (I have a APR CF kit) You will need to remove a few screws from the rocker to get the inner fender loose enough to work. So here are my first round of questions.

How do you get all the washer fluid out without removing the actual tank?

We remove the pump and block it off. What do we do with the flow? (Leave it in so we don't get a dummy light?) I assume the car will see "fluid" in the tank and be fine?