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WOW MY LUCK!!! 3k Mile Texas Speed highly built short block CRANK SNAPPED IN TWO

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Old 12-28-2021, 07:45 PM
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C5-VERT
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Default WOW MY LUCK!!! 3k Mile Texas Speed highly built short block CRANK SNAPPED IN TWO

** update ** Texas Speed wants me to ship it back to inspect and determine next steps. That's all I can ask for. Shipping will cost me an arm and a leg but what choice do I have. Thankful they are working with me. Very nice of you Texas Speed!

Well, here we are! I am in shock! Never have I seen a crank break or snap on the counterweight. Never. Purchased a brand new fully built short block with the best internals to support 1400 wheel horse. Billet internals, over $10,500 for the short block.

his is a Texas Speed stroker crank so I am hoping they can have some insight as well as help me out. What do you guys think? I have ACL main bearings .001 over, Clevite rod bearings, and Durabond cam bearings. Should I stick with what Texas Speed recommends or go with King main and rod bearings this time around? Also, does anyone know if I should stick with the same Texas Speed stroker crank? i am wondering if they just take a crank and machine it to a stroker? That could be why it cranked maybe it was a remanufactured crank? I thought I paid for a Callies crank but I looked back and I didn't. The engine says rated for 1400 wheel no way with only 3k miles and how I drove this car that crankshaft should have done that. No way. I bet there was already a stress crack and it wasn't seen. I can't explain it but this sucks! Damn $10,500 short block and 3k miles later this!!! Come on Texas Speed help me out here!

What should I do next? Other than contacting Texas Speed with this issue? Any Callies stroker cranks for sale? What other options do I have? Going to do a crank, new main bearings, and new rod bearings. Fortunately, zero damage to anything else thankfully shut the engine off instantly on my lift when the crank snapped.

Here is a Dropbox share with full resolution pics: https://www.dropbox.com/t/m0zDo5L2Fb0M91pl


















Last edited by C5-VERT; 12-30-2021 at 02:00 PM.
Old 12-28-2021, 08:28 PM
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I really hate to spend this kind of money just to turn around and sell the car. Any recommendations? Any used Callies cranks for sale? 4.00 stroker? I'm hoping Texas Speed can work with me on this but I need to explore other options just in case. I just want this car right, all I ever wanted since I started this journey.

https://www.texas-speed.com/p-7227-c...terweight.aspx
Old 12-29-2021, 09:54 AM
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Here is the video walkthrough:
Old 12-29-2021, 10:32 AM
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Woof! That was hard to look at. Good luck on getting parts in there that will give you many miles of pleasure.

Elmer
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Old 12-29-2021, 12:12 PM
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What do the pistons look like? Be curious once you get the rods out if they are not bent. Serious twist load on that crank. This should be something TSP I would think help you out with. Out side of hydro lock, running without dampener, major tune issue. Seems like a manufacturer defect, with as little time you have on motor. You haven’t had it together long enough to beat on it. Doesn’t look like caps got very hot(maybe the one next to where crank broke has a little color). I would suggest having a reputable engine builder put it back together, not something you want to tackle by yourself. There is a lot of tolerances that will need to be checked. Can’t assume anything is good until verified. Hopefully TSP will just swap you out a short block they have in stock. Getting parts is damn near impossible. I wouldn’t disassemble anymore until talking with them and getting plan. Either way document every step- with multiple pictures.
Old 12-29-2021, 01:51 PM
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This is awful to see. My guess is that it had a defect that could have only been spotted with a sonic test.
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Old 12-29-2021, 04:19 PM
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robert miller
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I have never seen that before with a motor that per say is like new. But you do need to check the line bore on that block now for sure. I know what you are going thur Robert
Old 12-29-2021, 05:02 PM
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I'd try to get my money back and find a new vendor.
Old 12-29-2021, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by motojager
What do the pistons look like? Be curious once you get the rods out if they are not bent. Serious twist load on that crank. This should be something TSP I would think help you out with. Out side of hydro lock, running without dampener, major tune issue. Seems like a manufacturer defect, with as little time you have on motor. You haven’t had it together long enough to beat on it. Doesn’t look like caps got very hot(maybe the one next to where crank broke has a little color). I would suggest having a reputable engine builder put it back together, not something you want to tackle by yourself. There is a lot of tolerances that will need to be checked. Can’t assume anything is good until verified. Hopefully TSP will just swap you out a short block they have in stock. Getting parts is damn near impossible. I wouldn’t disassemble anymore until talking with them and getting plan. Either way document every step- with multiple pictures.
I inspected every single spot as best as I could and couldn't find any other damage. The saving grace was the crank snapped when I was barely revving it on my lift. If I was driving the engine would have been complete toast. Soon as it snapped I heard a noise and killed the car. So I feel like I was in the best situation if you can call it that for causing little or no collateral damage. I know I am SICK of dumping money in this car thought. You don't want to know the amount I have in this thing!! I just spent $2500 a month or so ago to get a Katech High Flow oil pump and do an Improved Racing dedicated oil cooler setup. I had no idea this was going to happen. I pushed my stock motor and crank so much harder than I ever pushed this motor. I spent so much money on it I honestly wanted to just enjoy it for a while. But the bad luck just plagued me.

I am not one to own my mistakes or the reality of things but in this case, I really feel like this was some type of defect in that crankshaft that caused this. I don't know how they make their own in house stroker cranks or if they are even refurbished from stock cranks. No idea. Regardless it would be nice if they could help me out all I want is just what I ordered. Even if I have to ship back the block on my dime and let them fix and ship back. I have promoted them like crazy and would love to keep doing that. Not asking for a handout just hoping to work out something that's fair. I feel like for $10,000 I definitely didn't get even close to my money's worth. I could have just rebuilt my stock block and engine for half and probably been fine.

Let's hope they respond I will keep everyone updated. Does anyone have other contacts at Texas Speed I can reach out to?

Thanks! Michael

Last edited by C5-VERT; 12-30-2021 at 02:02 PM.
Old 12-29-2021, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by robert miller
I have never seen that before with a motor that per say is like new. But you do need to check the line bore on that block now for sure. I know what you are going thur Robert
In 26+ years of building engines, I have never seen this either. It honestly has to be some type of defect in that crank. I can think of so many other things that would have failed before that crank would snap like that. I've bent rods, spun bearings, etc. but nothing ever like this. I'm hoping I can get Texas Speed to take it back and get me fixed up maybe for just the cost of shipping. All I want is what I ordered, but at least with reliable parts. It was the entire reason I spent so much money on going with such a high-end short block and reputable engine builder. I was back and forth with them and LME. I know they both do great work but let's see if they are good people and will work with me.

I know you understand Robert buddy and I'm sorry for everything you are going through. I hope you have a wonderful New Year friend! ~Michael
Old 12-29-2021, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Hardtop
I'd try to get my money back and find a new vendor.
I honestly doubt that would happen. But I would expect them to help me out at least get me back to the original setup I purchased. I mean you can look at the internals they still look like the day the thing arrived! Other than the crank of course.
Old 12-29-2021, 06:28 PM
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Looking at it from pictures at a distance, I'd say that fracture looks very grainy, like I'd expect to see on cast or sintered metal. Example being the shear break used to split the big end of the sintered rods on the 2.2 GM ecotech 16v engines.

I would expect a forged or billet material would have a cleaner smoother fracture, with an grain as fine as flour, not as rough as sugar for example.

Last edited by gavinfdavies; 12-29-2021 at 06:37 PM.
Old 12-29-2021, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by gavinfdavies
Looking at it from pictures at a distance, I'd say that fracture looks very grainy, like I'd expect to see on cast iron or cast steel. Example being the shear break used to split the big end of the cast rods on the 2.2 GM ecotech 16v engines.

I would expect a forged or billet material would have a cleaner smoother fracture, with an grain as fine as flour, not as rough as sugar for example.
Good callout. I'm not sure but I thought all Z06 crankshafts were forged??? I know this is their own proprietary stroker crankshaft so I'm not sure how it's machined or where it comes from.

Here is a Dropbox share with full resolution pics: https://www.dropbox.com/t/m0zDo5L2Fb0M91pl
Old 12-29-2021, 06:59 PM
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Compare the finish between the crank and the rods. Given they're both supposed to be forged, they sure look different. I know that cast stroker cranks exist, I think Scat do them, but they're still supposed to be pretty good. I can't get over how jagged that crack is. Puts me in mine of either a brittle fracture of a VERY coarse grained metal, or a ductile tearing of something over a few dozen cycles. But it looks clean, no necking.
I would point out that I'm merely some bloke on the web, and while I do work on inspecting jet engines, fracture mechanics is not my specialism.


Old 12-29-2021, 07:15 PM
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I would send that short block back. They should replace it or do the proper machine work and parts to get it right. This is exactly why I chose to have my short block built locally.
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Old 12-29-2021, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by C5-VERT
I honestly doubt that would happen. But I would expect them to help me out at least get me back to the original setup I purchased. I mean you can look at the internals they still look like the day the thing arrived! Other than the crank of course.
Kick and scream if they don't make you happy. There are plenty of reputable vendors that would stand by their work with a warranty. Even then, a busted crank like that is inexcusable and I would sell it if they get it running again..
Old 12-29-2021, 08:09 PM
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Unless TSP have a special crank that goes into their shop builds looks like they claim 950hp out of their crank? Says forged, but no other info on heat treatment etc?

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Old 12-29-2021, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by C5-VERT
I really hate to spend this kind of money just to turn around and sell the car. Any recommendations? Any used Callies cranks for sale? 4.00 stroker? I'm hoping Texas Speed can work with me on this but I need to explore other options just in case. I just want this car right, all I ever wanted since I started this journey.

https://www.texas-speed.com/p-7227-c...terweight.aspx
FYI…That is the incorrect part number above Texas Speed has the part numbers and descriptions all FUBAR.
LTx dry sump cranks are the 5UO part numbers

5UO-31T-MG-58 (6 weight)

5UO-31W-MG-58 (CCW 8 weight)
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Old 12-30-2021, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by douniasg
I would send that short block back. They should replace it or do the proper machine work and parts to get it right. This is exactly why I chose to have my short block built locally.
** update ** Texas Speed wants me to ship it back to inspect and determine next steps. That's all I can ask for. Shipping will cost me an arm and a leg but what choice do I have. Thankful they are working with me. Very nice of you Texas Speed!
Old 12-30-2021, 02:25 PM
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Texas Speed will work with you.


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