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Just a quick note as long as your amp can take high level input (ie speaker level) there is no need for a LOC. Also for ignition turn on that can be found multiple places in the car but most name brand amplifiers ( Kicker,JL,RF) have the option to turn on via the speaker signal like the LC2 he talks about above.
Do you notice any kind of signal loss by using only one channel for sub? I have a Hertz HDP 5 I'm hooking up with a JL stealth box and for the sub I can either do L + R pre out through a DSP or Just the Right ( or left for argument sake) single channel direct high input to the amp. I guess my thinking is if the music for some reason played bass tones in stereo there could be some beats that you just don't hear?
Just a quick note as long as your amp can take high level input (ie speaker level) there is no need for a LOC. Also for ignition turn on that can be found multiple places in the car but most name brand amplifiers ( Kicker,JL,RF) have the option to turn on via the speaker signal like the LC2 he talks about above.
Could you please let me know where I can find ignition turn on assuming I don't have an LC2 or an aftermarket amplifier with speaker level inputs?
Do you notice any kind of signal loss by using only one channel for sub? I have a Hertz HDP 5 I'm hooking up with a JL stealth box and for the sub I can either do L + R pre out through a DSP or Just the Right ( or left for argument sake) single channel direct high input to the amp. I guess my thinking is if the music for some reason played bass tones in stereo there could be some beats that you just don't hear?
I have the same question. I was going to use both front subs for signal into the LC2 into a 2 channel amp to my Stealthbox. The box only has one set of inputs but it's a dual voice coil sub.
I guess it's obvious that I don't know **** about installing a subwoofer.
er-
Yes, but in my case I am replacing all the speakers and going active. It looks like I need to run fresh wires for the tweeters, everything else can stay?
No door panel removal needed: You connect the input of the added subwoofer amp to the front door woofer signals at the Bose amplifier speaker output wires (connector X1, pin#1 solid yellow = +, pin#5 yellow with black stripe = -) located below the rear cargo floor. You also need to disconnect the left and right microphone wires (amp connector X3 pin#4 & pin#5), also located at the Bose amp. These need to be disconnected to disable the active noise cancellation. See the first post in this thread.....
I've reaad through a bunch of the posts on this so for starters thanks for the info. This is giving me the confidence to do the install myself. I went to a local shop and they just said $750 for install, no parts. That is ridiculous so I'm going to try, and here are all my thoughts.
1 I don't care if the stealthbox fits in the corner, I've only used the entire trunk once and that was to transport my headers. JL makes a rectangular box with the same sub as the stealthbox for $280 less http://www.jlaudio.com/cs112lg-tw3-c...-systems-93305
2 I have an amp from a previous 2 12" setup https://www.crutchfield.com/S-RrYtKr...GM-D8500M.html this should power the sub just fine. It ran 2 400W RMS subs. At 2 ohms it does 600W and the JL sub is rated for 400RMS at 2 ohms so it should have power leftover.
3 Wiring: I know how to run the power and ground to the amp, very straightforward, put them on the power and ground terminals from the amp. The amp has 2 30A fuses but there is another fuse in the power line from my old setup. So I'll just keep that. The positive and negative speaker outputs go to the subwoofer terminals on the JL box. I have RCA inputs on the amp and the option to switch input from RCA to speaker but my understanding is to use speaker? Tap into the front right sub signal at the factory amp detailed earlier in this thread. Just splice right into them with the the L/R input lines from the amp. I have a separate system control terminal on the amp but if I use speaker inputs from the sub I don't need this right?
4 Disconnect the mics from the appropriate terminals at the factory amp.
5 The LPF and gain on the amp are set so I'll leave those as is unless it sounds bad but I don't anticipate wanting to mess with those. I have a bass **** for the amp as well which I'm sure I won't turn up all the way.
Is there anything I'm missing? Do I need a LCI or anything else? I haven't bought the sub yet but if my understanding of everything is correct I will buy it and wire it up then report back. Thanks.
Is the factory amp area the only place a amp will fit? Is there room under the seats or ?
Look at the size of your amp then get an object that height and slide it under the seat (or test fit the amp itself). You want airflow though to keep things cool though. Not sure how much there is under the seat. Also be mindful it could get wet if you drive when rain/snow etc. is on the ground.
Just a quick note as long as your amp can take high level input (ie speaker level) there is no need for a LOC. Also for ignition turn on that can be found multiple places in the car but most name brand amplifiers ( Kicker,JL,RF) have the option to turn on via the speaker signal like the LC2 he talks about above.
My amp has the option to switch between speaker or RCA and it advertises turning on via the speaker signal. I didn't buy a LOC but I'm curious if I still need the wire to tell the amp to turn on. If I don't install one will the amp always stay on, even when there is no speaker signal? Guess I could check after I install this weekend and see if/how long it takes to shutoff.
Thank you to Joesgtech for the very valuable information. I bought the Audio Control LC2i and hooked it up as instructed. I also cut and taped off the noise cancelling microphone wires. After installation I was extremely happy with the upgraded sound with the added subs.
I used a 500 watt Kicker amp and two Dual Voice Coil 2 ohm Solobarics in a sealed box.
I learned that the rear trunk lid has way less rigidity then the C5. At around 350+ watts it starts to vibrate badly. I have set it up for max volume around 300 watts. This is way under-powering my 1200 watt subs but they still sound really good and it blends very well with the stock speakers.
My next step is to build a custom ported box that is worthy of the car and will look better in the trunk and face the ports toward the rear of the seats where the sound enters the cockpit area.
Looks good and you might have confirmed that my dual 10 idea would be overkill so I got one 500W 12 instead.
Does your amp have speaker inputs or did you get the LC2i just to be safe? I’m holding off buying it and trying to see if I can wire directly to the yellow wires from the amp.
My LC2 has a right and left channel. Do you bridge it with the 2 wires coming from the factory amp or just use one set? I need to get this wired. Been putting it off too long. Thanks
03-21-2017, 10:36 PM
