How to install: DIY American Racing Mid-Length Headers
#41
Burning Brakes
How did it go removing those two nuts holding the stock cat pipes to the stock manifolds? Did you come up with an easier way than I did to get them off? I have since wondered that if I had either loosened the manifold from the head or even dropped the manifold down if it would have been possible to get to that final nut much easier.
Good luck with the rest of the install.
Good luck with the rest of the install.
Didn't really have an issue. I did loosen manifolds first. I cleared out everything up top, before going below.
I bought a set of through sockets, but didn't need them. I took off the front wheels. Which gave access to both sides. Used a long box-end wrench and a soft dead blow mallet and tapped loose, then ran them off by hand.
I did spray them down, the night before, with WD penetrating oil.
On my car, all the cat pipe, to manifolds where fairly easy. Wish I could say the same for some of the manifold screws themselves. I have large hands and getting to the one driver's side/fire wall was a bear!
The following users liked this post:
C7 x 2 (07-05-2016)
#42
Racer
Thread Starter
So for those of you who decide to take this project on yourself, it appears you can save some time if you either loosen or take out the manifold to head bolts you can get to the two manifold to cat pipe nuts much easier than trying to work around all the obstacles below them. Like I said in the thread 3 of these on each side are fairly easy to get at but there are two, one on each side, that can be a problem.
The following users liked this post:
bhk2 (12-27-2017)
#43
Burning Brakes
When, I put on my mids, I too have difficulty getting the last nut off the manifold connecting pipe. I found that unbolting the manifold from the head enabled me to rotate it enough to get a socket on that one nut that was giving so much problems.
Al
Al
The following users liked this post:
C7 x 2 (07-06-2016)
The following users liked this post:
C7 x 2 (07-21-2016)
The following users liked this post:
C7 x 2 (09-02-2017)
#46
I just came across this thread while researching headers. Would you install mid length with cats over an axle back exhaust? I have the Borla X-pipe and now wonder which is the best bang for buck performance and sound wise while keeping warranty? Thanks.
#47
Racer
Thread Starter
If you are looking for sound and performance and can only go with one or the other but not both, go with the headers If you go with the axle back you will only get sound. If you go with the mid-lengths you will get sound and performance though the Borla Atak sounded awesome even before I put the ARH on. With both on under heavy throttle it is freakin' loud! I was never able to get a good sound clip with my Nikon D5300 because it blows up the internal microphone even from inside the car. The headers work excellent with the Borla x-pipe. I don't think you will be disappointed.
#48
If you are looking for sound and performance and can only go with one or the other but not both, go with the headers If you go with the axle back you will only get sound. If you go with the mid-lengths you will get sound and performance though the Borla Atak sounded awesome even before I put the ARH on. With both on under heavy throttle it is freakin' loud! I was never able to get a good sound clip with my Nikon D5300 because it blows up the internal microphone even from inside the car. The headers work excellent with the Borla x-pipe. I don't think you will be disappointed.
Last edited by SFCTeach; 09-03-2017 at 07:58 AM.
#49
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Farmington CT
Posts: 6,125
Received 160 Likes
on
125 Posts
Cruise-In VII Veteran
This is an amazing post, I remember speaking with you while at ARH.
Nick(owner of ARH) came up with this idea 4 years ago to to allow hp/tq gains without the need to tune.
Nick(owner of ARH) came up with this idea 4 years ago to to allow hp/tq gains without the need to tune.
The following users liked this post:
C7 x 2 (07-31-2018)
#50
Melting Slicks
Awesome post! Thanks for taking the time to lay this out.
The following users liked this post:
C7 x 2 (09-13-2017)
#51
6th Gear
Thanks for the informative post, looks like a quality install.
Did you use anything to shield the starter from header heat?
Looks pretty close with no shielding? My starter just started sticking,
Britanny Spears said likely heat from the headers is the problem on my C5.
Did you use anything to shield the starter from header heat?
Looks pretty close with no shielding? My starter just started sticking,
Britanny Spears said likely heat from the headers is the problem on my C5.
The following users liked this post:
C7 x 2 (09-13-2017)
#52
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks for the informative post, looks like a quality install.
Did you use anything to shield the starter from header heat?
Looks pretty close with no shielding? My starter just started sticking,
Britanny Spears said likely heat from the headers is the problem on my C5.
Did you use anything to shield the starter from header heat?
Looks pretty close with no shielding? My starter just started sticking,
Britanny Spears said likely heat from the headers is the problem on my C5.
#53
great information here. Did you use the gaskets that came with the headers or oem gaskets? How’s everything holding up?
The following users liked this post:
C7 x 2 (06-12-2018)
#54
Racer
Thread Starter
I used the gaskets that came with the headers. OEM were metal and I wasn't sure how those would work with the headers. I recently had the car in the air and found the bolts joining the cat pipe to the x-pipe had worked their way loose. readjusted those and retorqued. Everything else looked just as it did when I installed the system 2 yrs. ago. It still sounds amazing and maybe a little louder.
Last edited by C7 x 2; 06-12-2018 at 11:13 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Dcasole (09-17-2018)
#55
I used the gaskets that came with the headers. OEM were metal and I wasn't sure how those would work with the headers. I recently had the car in the air and found the bolts joining the cat pipe to the x-pipe had worked their way loose. readjusted those and retorqued. Everything else looked just as it did when I installed the system 2 yrs. ago. It still sounds amazing and maybe a little louder.
The following users liked this post:
C7 x 2 (06-16-2018)
The following users liked this post:
C7 x 2 (06-16-2018)
#57
1. Any issue getting the OEM cat pipe out over the studs before it hits the cradle?
2. 100% the drysump lines have to come loose and be moved?
2. 100% the drysump lines have to come loose and be moved?
#58
Burning Brakes
1> no issues
2. Yes, they have to be removed. I tried a couple of time to install the header without removal and wound up scratching the hell out of my ceramic coating! Live and learn....
2. Yes, they have to be removed. I tried a couple of time to install the header without removal and wound up scratching the hell out of my ceramic coating! Live and learn....
The following users liked this post:
ilkSurfer (07-07-2018)
The following users liked this post:
C7 x 2 (09-09-2018)
#60
Drifting
Awesome write up!!!
Did you get any dyno numbers before and after?
Do you think the Headers added much power to your Z06?
Are they still working well without setting any codes?
Thanks,
Bob
Did you get any dyno numbers before and after?
Do you think the Headers added much power to your Z06?
Are they still working well without setting any codes?
Thanks,
Bob