X25

When you get the T1 package, it comes with the right shocks. I did check the part numbers, and they were indeed part numbers listed on web sites and the package's instructions. I can find the front (IIRC), but the rear gets superseded by a new part number, which then is marked discontinued. When I asked TrunkMonkeyParts, they told me it's then superseded by FE3 standard shocks, but frankly I don't believe it, since GM still sells the original part# with the kit, and the online catalogues don't show the connection to the FE3 shock.


From outside, they look identical. I'm guessing it's just the valving.

MSR

Ah, ok. I wasn't sure if you sourced the parts or just bought the kit, makes sense now.

Thanks.

-michael

BaylorCorvette

That's amazing considering in 95-100*F ambient temps my oil got up to 273*, coolant 223* and trans 306*

Do you have the P/N's readily accessible for the secondary radiator and any additional hardware?

Were you running 38 PSI hot front and back? I found (to my surprise) I had my best time with my NT01's at 40 front, 38 rear (HOT). We have very similar alignments as well.

Odd that you don't like the GT seats, when I sold my Camaro which also had a harness bar I though for certain I'd need to get a harness in the Corvette, especially since mine has the GT seats. I'm finding that the seats hold me great once the bolster is adjusted. I'm also a large-ish guy, 6'2", 210. So I figured the seats wouldn't hold me as well as someone smaller in size.

Competition mode is only available in in track mode, when you switch to any other mode I believe it turns it off. However if you start off in say sport or tour mode you cannot get into competition mode. I'm fairly certain you'll need to re-enable comp mode when you go back into track. Kind of annoying. Also what's annoying is you can customize your displays in different modes but if you want the sport DIC display in tour it applies the sport display in ALL modes which is annoying. So you either are forced to deal with Chevy's default display's in each mode or a single display in all modes. I wanted to make all my modes display the sport DIC display and then leave track the way it is from the factory, but nope not possible. So I fixed that by only driving in sport mode on the street, frankly I don't like the loose steering wheel feel in weather, eco or tour anyways.

X25

You can refer to post #3 for all part numbers. It's 84037858. I also used Z06 scoops, grille, and transmission cooler.

40/38 probably have same cold temps, anyway; fronts get to higher temps. I think 26 or 27 PSI cold on all corners is where the sweet spot is (but will have to check on that).

I actually hurt my left knee, since I kept pushing myself by the door to stabilize during hard braking; here is hoping seat conversion + harness bar keeps me in place. I'm 205 lbs, but relatively stubby at 5'10" : )


I just don't like any of the modes. I'd love to have the track mode with numbers under those ticks for temps, and TPMS pressures also displayed instead of the stupid battery voltage. OK, WHO NEEDS TO SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE DURING HOT LAPS? Seriously, who? It's mind boggling.

I have an open track day at relatively milder temps next Tuesday at the Ridge. I am hoping to install the harness bar + seats by then. Once done, the only thing left will be the rear LCAs, and noone seems to know about them : ( The service manual's procedure for rear crossmember removal is very much horrifying; I'm hoping to get away with it much easier, but need to validate my theory with someone who's already done it.

X25

Update:
As I've mentioned before, I only have seats, harness bar, and rear LCAs (punted to winter or off time) remaining to install. I finally started working on the seat conversion today:



Since I am also replacing the bottom with the suede-wrapped version, I pretty much had to strip the whole seat. It took me a while to do so, since I did not want to damage anything.


It took me 1-2 hours just to remove the string holding the bottom upholstery. I finally realized that the rail assembly and the magnesium chassis are touching each other (even though they're not meant to), making it impossible for the string to get loose. I used my forged toe link separator fork to push them a bit apart, and it did the trick! Of course, it took me a long time to figure this out.


Finished seat! Another issue was the new airbag packaging, since it works a bit differently. Anyway, I will be much faster when it comes to the driver side.


From back.


From the side of the car.


From the top.


I also attended the first autocross in my life. I got down to 60 seconds in my 3rd attempt. One of the instructor guys had a '14 C7 Z51 with RE71Rs, and he was consistently doing about 57 seconds. I think it was good for a first time effort, and considering I could drive it at the track for only 3 minutes during that whole autocross event! Speaking of which, I find it ridiculous to get to drive for only 3-4 minutes, while wasting half of my day. I am not sure if I would try it again : )

There is an upcoming track day on Aug 9th (TUE), where it will be open format, and only for advanced drivers at the Ridge. It will hopefully be much less crowded, and much more fun!

X25

Car is finished!



Driver's side. It took me much less than the passenger side, now that I know how.


Installation of harness bar pretty much involves removing all the panels by the side of the trunk.


Finished!


Love the suede inserts and the more aggressive side bolsters.


I'm looking forward to seeing how mu the harness and new seats help. The next track day is on Tuesday Aug 9th.

Tires: I was going to try Trofeo R and RE71R next, but decided to keep using NT01s for the time being. Since I am still getting used to the car, using different tires would only add to the confusion when it comes to lap times anyway. I just placed an order for a new set as a backup.

AKKutz

Nice! I'm building somewhat along the same lines. I wasn't going to do the bottoms, but am starting to change my mind. I am doing suede inserts. Do you have the part numbers for the seat bottom covers?

X25

Yep, you should do the bottom covers as well since bottom friction is the most important. I did not do the bottom foam, but that's also an option.

Part numbers:
23133448
22997067

AKKutz

Thanks, interesting (using Trunk Monkey) 3448 is over $30 cheaper than 7067! Did you notice this?

X25

Yep, I paid different prices, too, for no good reason : ) They look symmetrically identical.

Chets LS3

How hard will it be to remove the harness bar. Ie if I need to take it to the dealer. Lol

X25

You need to remove the side panels again, and then unbolt 4 big allen bolts. The fit is very tight, so fitting it back might be a bit hard, too. I would honestly not bother; just remove your race harness, and they won't think much of it. After all, you could possibly be using it for cameras, too, or you're just a poser; how can they know? : )

BaylorCorvette

Those seats look awesome, I really want to do that at some point.

Nice! I've decided to sit out track events until it gets cooler, in the mean time I've been doing autocross events. Both last month and yesterday I've come in second to MSR (poster in this thread) he's a great driver. Like you I'm on the stock MPSS, I was able to ride with MSR on his last run yesterday and he's on the RE71R's. I've decided I'm going to those tires when my MPSS need to be replaced. I was surprised at the levels of grip in a couple areas of the track.

Meanwhile I have my numbers on my rear qtr windows, my license plate says "TRACK IT", I've got track out line decals on my rear window and my service manager knows I track the car He know's it is stock so I don't think he'd make a big stink about a warranty claim. At least not an AFM claim, been down that road once already. Actually I was at the dealership having my truck serviced last week and he was giving me a hard time because I told him I haven't been to the track lately because it is too hot!

BaylorCorvette

Also, I know you list the secondary radiator as P/N: 84037858. Do you need any other supplemental parts to install it or just buy that part number and you're good to go?

X25

That is the part number of the kit, and comes with everything you need. The only other thing you need would be new coolant : )

Unless I can find an org where I can do more than 4 minutes of action, I think I'll pass on the autocross; it's just too short for the time invested. We'll see.

BaylorCorvette

Cool thanks.

And yes I agree about the ROI on Autocross. We usually have over 100 people for our events in Houston which means work time is 1.5-2 hours and we get four runs at around 60 seconds. So four minutes of track time for ~2 hours of work (especially in the summer) SUCKS. However being that you're competing against other people is fun and really the only reason I'm still doing it. The way I figure is it keeps me sharp for the track in the off season and isn't too hard on wear items.

X25

I will be at The Ridge Motorsports Park tomorrow, and this time it won't be nearly as hot; the temps should stay at or below 70 degrees or so.



Finally replaced the clutch fluid in the reservoir for the first time. As expected, it was very dirty. I will keep replacing it often, until it becomes cleaner. I wish it was easy to install a remote bleeder to this car.



My bar mount was too small for the thick roll bar, so I came up with this monstrosity.


Thankfully, my aluminum GoPro mount extensions and roll bar mount arrived just in time today, so I replaced the ugly hack with a decent solution.

Here is a short test video. The vantage point seems to be much better, and it also records my phone screen from where I put it (it conveniently fits snug to the hidden compartment), so I will get to sync data to the milliseconds with ease:

BaylorCorvette

Are you happy with the Amsoil Signature Series transmission fluid? I'm thinking I better change mine soon since last track event it reached 306*

X25

I didn't feel much of a difference in shifting, but my reason to change was better high temp protection and stability anyway, and this fluid is designed for it.

CDH76

Two questions for you.

1) Is that the only way to change the clutch fluid? If so where did you get that tool you are using and how long does that tubing have to be to reach?

2) Where did you get that harness bar and how did it attach to your side walls?

Thanks!