X25

I think it would. I checked the available space for a fan, and there was a pretty big space available in front of the core. Again, it's a $200 experience. Tire experiments cost $1300+, choosing the wrong (very hot) track day costs $300, so in the grand scheme of things, $200 feels OK to experiment with in my opinion : ) In the worst case, you can always resell it to someone who would have a use for, and drop your loss to $50 or so.

Another example, my AFM experiment was actually a $1000 experiment (since if I burned them, GM would not replace them under warranty, and I'd need to foot the bill since they're not on the muffler anymore). Thankfully, it worked!

Car54

I like your logic and I have used it myself and may again in this case. Each time I try to reason thru the process I am still stuck with....if the only line I can get is too long, then why isn't the cooler that is listed in the parts catalog a direct bolt on to the z51 instead of being one bolt off like yours. Based on what you have done I can make it work....but why do I have to. Why can't I buy the line from the 2016 z51 a8 and maybe the cooler from the 2016 z51 a8 and bolt it up. In the parts catalog the cooler for the z51 is the same part number as the z06 so why did you have to do the modifications to make it work. It may forever remain a mystery until I can talk someone with a 2016 z51 A8 into letting me take the drivers rear fender liner off and look.

Thanks

Bill

X25

These are very valid questions. In my case, I just blindly ordered the Z06 cooler core in my case, and decided to play with it before ordering more parts.

In order to answer your questions, we'd need to compare part numbers from all sorts of configs. If you have time, I'd recommend that you note the part numbers of lines, fans, and cooler cores of various setups, and see what you have vs. what those setups have to deduce what you need to do to your best guess:
2014 A6 Z51
2016 A8 Z51
2016 A8 Z06

I usually use iamgmparts.com or cheapestgmparts.com for such part look-ups.

Car54

I just looked at both of those websites and got the same result as before. The only trans cooler shown for the z06 and stingray ( z51 was not an option) is the small rear cooler and the tube type porcupine coolers both of which we know is incorrect for the z06 and it should show the front cooler as well for the z06 and does not.

X25

Updates:

T1 Suspension kit, replacement shocks
The kit came with shocks with following part numbers: Front 22873513 Rear 22873509. Both of these parts are marked as discontinued. When you check with dealers, they tell you that 23202880 and 23202881 are replacement parts. However these parts also happen to be the part numbers currently shown by parts catalog for Z51 FE3. So in other words, we are supposed go back to stock FE3 shocks when it comes to replacement???? Even though it's supposed to be discontinued, when you buy the $2880 T1 kit, it comes with those specific shocks.

This doesn't make sense at all, and I contacted Chevrolet Performance Parts 1-800-450-4150. I literally got no help at all, and they did not even understand what I am talking about. In the end, the second person I was talking to has connected me back to a GM customer service rep, who prompted me to 'talk to the dealer', despite mentioning that I already did.

Anyway, I contacted TrunkMonkeyParts, and asked what I should do, asking that they should not tell me to buy those new part numbers, which are also the ones listed on parts catalog for FE3 Z51. Interestingly, they told me that the recent T1 kits also started shipping with those new part numbers! Now I am wondering if those shocks are any different than the shocks that came stock with my '16 Z51. Yes, the part numbers are different: 23313991 (more expensive than the new one), and 23313992 (not found online).

This is very confusing, and also disappointing.

When it comes to replacing shocks
After losing my trust on what shocks come with what valving, I started talking to Anthony at LG, regarding their G2 coilovers. I am inclined to eventually get these coilovers. I would especially love to have either more spring rates or compression dampening, since as is, I am currently scraping the bottom at one of the very high compression brake zones of Ridge Motorsports Park (right after caroussel). We'll see how this will shape up.

I can actually switch earlier to check on it, if I can find a buyer for T1 shocks. Otherwise, I might want to use them a bit if I could only sell them for cheap.

Replacing rear LCAs
I also asked Anthony for his advice on how to replace the rear LCAs, which require lowering the whole rear subframe, and he had this brilliant idea!
Will do, thanks!!!!!!

BaylorCorvette

Yup the LG G2 Coilovers are on my short list of things to do. Best option out there IMO.

X25

Well, just ordered the coilovers!

Spring rates:
LG G2 coilovers at 750 lbs/in F, 700 lbs/in R spring rates. It translates to 13.4 kg/mm F, 12.5 kg/mm R for a car at 3350 lbs curb weight, somewhat comparable to my race Öhlins on my NC Miata at 12 kg/mm F, 7 kg/mm rear for a 2550 lbs car.

Rebuild costs and interval:
The rebuild costs $275 if it doesn't require parts, and Anthony mentioned they did not have to rebuild their coilovers for the Optima challenge car for many years, which is encouraging. I would probably want to get them rebuilt after about 2 full years of service, meaning end of 2018, if I hopefully keep the car that long!

Sway bars:
T1 bars are 40% stiffer up front, 20% stiffer and equal to FE4/5/6 at the rear compared to my FE3. LG bars are 40% stiffer both front and rear compared to FE4/5/6, which means they are similar to my front, while the rear is stiffer by another 40% from mine.

In other words, if we assume FE3 sways are 100, and would like to compare relative front/rear stiffness:

• FE3: 100x / 100y
• T1: 140x / 120y
• FE4+: 120x(?) / 120y
• LG (soft front hole): 168x / 168y

I put x and y there to avoid confusion that front and rear are the same stiffness; they obviously are not.


The LG front sway's stiffer hole should bump the stiffness, and make it similar to T1 in terms of balance. At soft setting, LGs's sway bar maintains stock balance.

I am running out of funds, so I don't think I will get the LG sway bars, too, but it would be great to compare the results of G2 coilovers (1) with T1 sways, and then with LG sways, perhaps if I get them next year. It will be fun!

P.S. I will soon have T1 shocks for sale; excellent opportunity for other T1 users, if you need a spare, since we can't seem to find them without the full kit.

BaylorCorvette

That was quick! Didn't keep those T1 shocks for very long

X25

It will be fun to compare results for sure. The new T1 kits are now shipping with OEM Z51 FE3 shock replacements per one of the forum parts vendors, so GM probably decided we wouldn't notice (!) the difference in valving: )

In short, if I will have to switch, I thought I might as well do sooner than later. The question that remains (besides where to set ride height) is now the sway bars. In my experience, much stiffer sways don't always help (though my brother always stuffs the stiffest sway bar he can find on his cars), so I would love to compare the results. I have a feeling though, that LG's sway bars would still be a better match; we'll see when I get more funds or if LG decides to run a special.

AKKutz

Seat of the pants, I have the Z51 MRC. I'd get a lot of over steer with stock sways. Was relatively easy to induce. Now with the LG bars, none. I have to work real hard and get the car real upset to get her to step out like the OEM set up did! Comments at the track are how flat my car was in the turns! LG bars, only suspension mod to this point. Running stock ride height, stock run flats.

X25

Glad to hear! I'm not sure if I understand why it would reduce oversteer, though, since it keeps the F/R balance of OEM bars. I suppose you are using the stiffer front sway hole setting then? That would probably balance out and reduce oversteer.

My car will have substantially higher spring rates with the coilovers, and it remains to be seen how even stiffer sway bars would impact the handling. Hopefully, if I can get acclimated with the car by then, I can find the impact through analyzing some of the technical corners around here. It will definitely be a lot of fun.

AKKutz

Yep, mount the fronts in the outer most holes!

X25

Outer-most as in the hole that is farther away from the main bar itself? If so, that increases the moment arm length (leverage) of the suspension on the sway bar, so it is the softer one. The stiffer one will be the inner-most hole, closer to the main bar (that crosses the car), which will provide less leverage to the suspension to overcome the sway's resistance.

If so, now you have a new setting to try out

LT5Vette

Great info to follow as I start to do track days.

BaylorCorvette

This is great, you're getting the sways and coil overs that I'm planning to down the road. Hopefully you'll have everything dialed it by then and I can just copy

X25

Haha, right, but I'll first use the coilovers with T1 sways. We'll see!

X25

Just came back from a track day at the ORP. They ran CCW, which I haven't done in years, and it was also very hot, so I was pretty busy today : )


Tires:
I think the rears are not big enough; I had hard time putting power on the ground early enough. My friend just ran at the RMP with his C6 GS with Nittos, same 275 fronts, but with 325 rears, and he seems to be able to put the power down much better. I could try his setup (275F/325R), but then it would still not be ideal, since my T1 sways are meant to use the car with wider fronts (compared to stock staggered setup).

NT01 does not have 295/30/18, which I think would be ideal. ENTER: 315/30/18 for fronts!!!!

Has anyone tried this tire for front fitment on a C7 Z51? My wheels are 10.5" wide up front, and 11.5" wide at the rear. As such, I think 325 rears would be nicely stretched, optimizing contact patch, while 315 fronts would be pinched by 10.5" wheels, which is not too big of a deal since NT01s have very stiff sidewalls (won't be bouncy), and I don't need all 315 tires can provide for fronts anyway.

This will be an experiment (315F/325R NT01s), and if it fails for whatever reason (rubs, car doesn't feel right, stability control tries to kill me, etc.), I will just give fronts to my brother to be used on his Viper, and will have to stick to 275s up front for the test of 275F/325R setup.

Transmission temp:
Despite having the Z06 size cooler core, the transmissions temp hit the upper redline in as little as 8-10 hot laps (20-25 minutes?) at 85+F weather. It never gave me the warning, but I started cool down laps just in case. During the cool-down, temps did not go down fast, either. After 2(!) full cool-down laps, I was finally out of the red zone. Did anyone else have any such experience? Does it go down fast, or does it go down very slow in your experience?

The fact that it takes too long to cool down tells me that it either doesn't get enough air flow, or perhaps something is wrong with the cooling system or my install, even though it would be hard to imagine how.
FYI, this is how I installed it:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1592563870




Apologies for the bad pics; I was still at a hot track (doing cool-down lap), so I had to be quick.

mustclime

Lower your rear air pressure if you are losing grip..IMO...Higher air pressure reduces grip....I autoX with less than 30psi in the rear. and low 30's in the front. With the pressure up to over 40psi in the rear i have little doubt you can not put the power down.

Just a fyi, when they talk about Cold tires on the TV for racing, they are not just taking about the rubber temps, they are talking about the psi in the tires. Start your track session with low pressures and let them climb up to the target pressure.

I like your thread but i really think you are going about tuning your suspension the wrong way...most of your problems IMO are because you are to low including your overheating but that is just my opinion. keep us posted.

X25

You should not compare this to autocross. I actually tried various tire pressures during the day, and 36 HOT seemed to work best. Nitto recommends high 30s, so I wanted to try that, too. Below is Nitto's response:
What do you mean with "to low"? FYI, my car is at stock height.

BaylorCorvette

Like we discussed in PM's, when my trans temp peaked at 306 I hadn't received a trans overheat warning yet but I saw it was pegged so I did two cool down laps plus driving around in the parking lot and the temps barley came off red line.

I contacted Nitto and asked them what PSI and/or temp range I should aim for on track for the NT01's and they just gave me a vague "high 30s" works best. Best I found was 40 up front and 36-37 rear. These were HOT temps. As far as tire temps they didn't give me a number but I try to measure temps and adjust based on the inside, middle and outside of the tire.