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'16 Z51 Arctic White track build

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Old 08-29-2016, 03:48 PM
  #241  
Kamran
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Originally Posted by BaylorCorvette
Like we discussed in PM's, when my trans temp peaked at 306 I hadn't received a trans overheat warning yet but I saw it was pegged so I did two cool down laps plus driving around in the parking lot and the temps barley came off red line.



I contacted Nitto and asked them what PSI and/or temp range I should aim for on track for the NT01's and they just gave me a vague "high 30s" works best. Best I found was 40 up front and 36-37 rear. These were HOT temps. As far as tire temps they didn't give me a number but I try to measure temps and adjust based on the inside, middle and outside of the tire.
Actual tire "surface" temp is not meaningful, unless you have someone waiting for you in the hot pit, so you can pull off for a minute to take temp reading before you head right back out F1 style. It's the temp profile across the tire section, as I mentioned in the other thread.

I "always" pit in the very first stall next to exit. And since I don't have much heating issues, my cool down lap is typically 8/10 to retain as much on track data for measurements in the pit.

Hard for Nitto to recommend exact numbers when there are so many variables, including the nut behind the wheel!

Last edited by Kamran; 08-29-2016 at 04:07 PM.
Old 08-29-2016, 03:53 PM
  #242  
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X25 have you thought about going with anything other than nitto?
Old 08-29-2016, 05:43 PM
  #243  
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Originally Posted by BaylorCorvette
Like we discussed in PM's, when my trans temp peaked at 306 I hadn't received a trans overheat warning yet but I saw it was pegged so I did two cool down laps plus driving around in the parking lot and the temps barley came off red line.



I contacted Nitto and asked them what PSI and/or temp range I should aim for on track for the NT01's and they just gave me a vague "high 30s" works best. Best I found was 40 up front and 36-37 rear. These were HOT temps. As far as tire temps they didn't give me a number but I try to measure temps and adjust based on the inside, middle and outside of the tire.
Regarding Nitto's recommended setup, Just read my post above yours (239); I specifically asked for all those questions, and they said high 30s, 160-220 degrees F, and -2.5 - -5 camber.

Regarding transmission temp, I think it's just not getting enough air to do the job. As I've mentioned before, one of the members who has an A8 has installed the Z06 cooler, and also added the OEM Z51 cooler back inline, right by the bottom of the car, diffuser area, and he said the temps stayed reasonable with both of them working it. This might be the ticket, but I honestly don't like putting a an cooler too close to the bottom of the car since it would be hard to protect it.

Last edited by X25; 08-29-2016 at 05:44 PM.
Old 08-29-2016, 06:05 PM
  #244  
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Originally Posted by chets ls3
X25 have you thought about going with anything other than nitto?
Yes, some candidates I've considered:
Bridgestone RE71R 285/30/18, 325/30/19 (to be released soon).
Hoosier R7 295/30/18F, 325/30/19
Pirelli Trofeo R 295/30/18, 325/30/19

Both Trofeo R and NT01s are pretty consistent in performance as they age, which reduces my confusion when I try different settings / setups, which is crucial for me to get acclimated with the new car and find what can be improved. Trofeo Rs have a much shorter life, though, so I'd like to stick with NT01s for the time being.

I'm sure I'll try many different tires in the long term : )

If it really fits, using 315s would be very exciting. Now that I also ordered the LG G2 coilovers, though, I will also need to consider the impact of its recommended 25mm lower ride height, and rubbing, not to mention the help provided by its stiffer springs. I'm currently planning to either drop height much less (10-15mm), or increase camber to take advantage of it and tuck the tires in.

Last edited by X25; 08-29-2016 at 06:06 PM.
Old 08-29-2016, 07:16 PM
  #245  
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Originally Posted by X25
You should not compare this to autocross. I actually tried various tire pressures during the day, and 36 HOT seemed to work best. Nitto recommends high 30s, so I wanted to try that, too. Below is Nitto's response:


What do you mean with "to low"? FYI, my car is at stock height.
Loosing traction, lower the pressures till you start rolling onto the side walls....I could have sworn you lowered the car when you had it aliened...sorry, my bad....strange you are bottoming out with stock ride height, are the Dukes of Hazard run your track?

Last edited by mustclime; 08-29-2016 at 07:17 PM.
Old 08-29-2016, 07:38 PM
  #246  
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Originally Posted by mustclime
Loosing traction, lower the pressures till you start rolling onto the side walls....I could have sworn you lowered the car when you had it aliened...sorry, my bad....strange you are bottoming out with stock ride height, are the Dukes of Hazard run your track?
No problem; I'll probably lower a bit anyway with the coilovers, so we'll see what happens then.

It's such a sharp compression area that even the '16 ACR-E with its otherworldly spring rates was also rubbing its aeros. The flip side is, if my car starts not rubbing hard, I can get there at incredible speeds and shave the speed right on that region like it's nobody's business : )

There was such a compression area at Spokane Raceway as well, and I was passing so many cars there at the Chump car race by merely delaying my braking.
Old 08-29-2016, 10:20 PM
  #247  
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Hey X25 you got me thinking about upgrading to suede parts after seeing your parts you added. My seats already have the suede middle part so it would be a nice touch. Just a FYI I came across a post where someone was selling the middle console lid that is also suede, part number 23354871. Just in case you are interested. Haven't order it yet myself but just wanted to throw this in here.

Edit: I might add its white stitching not black. I just noticed your items ordered are all black stitching. Would you happen to know if those come in white stitching? (Wheel, boot,shifter)

Last edited by CDH76; 08-29-2016 at 10:24 PM.
Old 08-30-2016, 04:19 AM
  #248  
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Originally Posted by CDH76
Hey X25 you got me thinking about upgrading to suede parts after seeing your parts you added. My seats already have the suede middle part so it would be a nice touch. Just a FYI I came across a post where someone was selling the middle console lid that is also suede, part number 23354871. Just in case you are interested. Haven't order it yet myself but just wanted to throw this in here.

Edit: I might add its white stitching not black. I just noticed your items ordered are all black stitching. Would you happen to know if those come in white stitching? (Wheel, boot,shifter)
I would highly recommend the suede-wrapped steering wheel and the shifter ****. These will reduce the likeliness of your loosing the handle of them during heavy tracking, especially if you don't use gloves. And yes, it looks awesome, too : ))

-----------

In other news, tires are ordered and will hopefully be here by the weekend!

I originally posted on thread: What's a cost effective track wheel and tire setup for my Z51?
Originally Posted by X25
Following on descartesfool stating 1000 times that 315/30/18 works up front and rear (thank you!!), I just ordered 315/30/18, 325/30/19 Nittos to be shod on my CCW 18x10.5 ET52, 19x11.5 ET83 wheels.
  • My goal is to go as wide as possible while limiting or eliminating oversteer. In my case, unlike pure square setup of using C5Z rear wheels on all 4 corners, I will have 315s on 10.5" wide wheels, while the rears are already a bit bigger at 325, and they will be mounted on a much wider 11.5" wide wheel, further stretching the contact patch.
  • Since wheel width usually dictates the actual contact patch width, I am hopeful this will result in about 20+mm or so actual difference F/R, even though the tire spec would only indicate 10mm or so.
  • On the top of this, my T1 rear sway bar is same stiffness as FE4 (Z51 w/MRC), but my fronts are 17% stiffer than FE4 front sways, which should further stabilize the setup.

If this setup doesn't rub, but still needs further balancing, I will buy the LG sways and use the stiffer setting up front to shift balance towards understeer a bit more.
Old 08-30-2016, 09:19 AM
  #249  
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Jesus dude, 315/325 set up can't wait to hear your feedback. Never can have enough traction on a RWD vehicle!
Old 08-30-2016, 02:07 PM
  #250  
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Originally Posted by BaylorCorvette
Jesus dude, 315/325 set up can't wait to hear your feedback. Never can have enough traction on a RWD vehicle!
Yeah, we'll see how it works. In the worst case, if it destroys my front fenders, I'd just get the Z06 fenders :P It might also force me to get different sway bars.

Last edited by X25; 08-30-2016 at 02:07 PM.
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Old 08-30-2016, 06:23 PM
  #251  
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Originally Posted by X25
I would highly recommend the suede-wrapped steering wheel and the shifter ****. These will reduce the likeliness of your loosing the handle of them during heavy tracking, especially if you don't use gloves. And yes, it looks awesome, too : ))
How did you determine that the stitching was black? I'm trying to find the part numbers with white stitching like my 2LT interior.
Old 08-30-2016, 06:28 PM
  #252  
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Originally Posted by CDH76
How did you determine that the stitching was black? I'm trying to find the part numbers with white stitching like my 2LT interior.
I checked them all with TrunkMonkeyParts to make sure they were right. Give them a call!
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Old 08-31-2016, 01:31 AM
  #253  
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Savage on the forum did 315/325. He had to be very specific with rear and front offset to make it work. Down to the mm. He told me on the phone if I planned to do a 325 I needed 1 more mm of offset to clear. Other than that it would rub. But we both have forgeline ga3rs. Unsure on the ccws

Last edited by Chets LS3; 08-31-2016 at 01:31 AM.
Old 08-31-2016, 01:34 AM
  #254  
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Originally Posted by chets ls3
Savage on the forum did 315/325. He had to be very specific with rear and front offset to make it work. Down to the mm. He told me on the phone if I planned to do a 325 I needed 1 more mm of offset to clear. Other than that it would rub. But we both have forgeline ga3rs. Unsure on the ccws
What were the offsets that worked? What about yours? : )

Did he have any thread/post regarding his experience?

Last edited by X25; 08-31-2016 at 01:35 AM.
Old 08-31-2016, 01:36 AM
  #255  
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I'm running 315 Hoosier A7s (autocross and time trial) and R7s for longer hpde's on a 78mm offset 18x11. I would assume you will have tighter clearance on the 11.5s. I think his issue was the 315s up front. The conversation was on the phone and I didn't foresee needing the 1-2mm offset since I would run 285-295s up front.
Old 08-31-2016, 01:39 AM
  #256  
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Originally Posted by chets ls3
I'm running 315 Hoosier A7s (autocross and time trial) and R7s for longer hpde's on a 78mm offset 18x11. I would assume you will have tighter clearance on the 11.5s. I think his issue was the 315s up front. The conversation was on the phone and I didn't foresee needing the 1-2mm offset since I would run 285-295s up front.
OK my rears are actually 19"x11.5", not 18", so it might hopefully be easier. Hopefully 315s up front are easier. Fingers crossed; already ordered the tires!

If this setup works, the only remaining reason to want to go wide-body would be eliminated; we'll see. Of course, wide-body would give me much more freedom on this, and I'd use at least 11" wide front wheels, but if 315 can fit, I don't think I'd need any wider anyway.

Last edited by X25; 08-31-2016 at 01:42 AM.
Old 08-31-2016, 01:39 AM
  #257  
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Ok I found it. He said he needed 60mm up front. 3.1 camber to clear the 315s up front. Mine are 60/78. Needed 79mm for the 335s and fender and a arm clearance

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Old 08-31-2016, 01:46 AM
  #258  
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Also your offsets will vary due to the 10.5/11.5 setup.
Old 08-31-2016, 01:57 AM
  #259  
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Originally Posted by chets ls3
Ok I found it. He said he needed 60mm up front. 3.1 camber to clear the 315s up front. Mine are 60/78. Needed 79mm for the 335s and fender and a arm clearance
Originally Posted by chets ls3
Also your offsets will vary due to the 10.5/11.5 setup.
That's not good. Let's just talk about the front: so you guys have used 18x10 up front, 60mm offset and -3.1 was needed to clear it? I presume these are 315/30/18, not 315/35/18.

My setup is 18x10.5 ET52, so it will clear much better inside, but might rub fenders. Was the car at stock height? I am hoping his car was lowered.

Last edited by X25; 08-31-2016 at 01:57 AM.
Old 08-31-2016, 03:07 AM
  #260  
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Originally Posted by X25
That's not good. Let's just talk about the front: so you guys have used 18x10 up front, 60mm offset and -3.1 was needed to clear it? I presume these are 315/30/18, not 315/35/18.

My setup is 18x10.5 ET52, so it will clear much better inside, but might rub fenders. Was the car at stock height? I am hoping his car was lowered.
I have only ran 285s on the front. Nothing bigger. I think he was at stock height


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