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Old 08-29-2017, 02:20 AM
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We did lead-follow through traffic last weekend at ORP. The cars didn't have enough traction for some reason, we were all off a second or two, so we decided to rather have fun playing in the traffic. I do have the NT01s, and my friend's '17 Camaro 1LE has Pirelli DH slicks.


In other news, I realized Hankook TD 221s are on a closing sale on eBay and and some merchants. I bought a set of 2x285/30/18 and 2x295/30/18 tires with soft compound, brand new, at $119 each!!!! Looking forward to trying them out : ) My cheap TSW Nurb 18x10.5 set of wheels will also be delivered this Friday, and I will decide if I should try the Pirelli DH scrubs or the TD 221s first. We'll see : )

And this is how Oregon Raceway Park looks like, and why I like it (safe!!!). I took the video using my Mavic Pro:

Last edited by X25; 08-29-2017 at 02:25 AM.
Old 08-29-2017, 05:00 AM
  #642  
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Originally Posted by X25
We did lead-follow through traffic last weekend at ORP. The cars didn't have enough traction for some reason, we were all off a second or two, so we decided to rather have fun playing in the traffic. I do have the NT01s, and my friend's '17 Camaro 1LE has Pirelli DH slicks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDHaCrjXeEk

In other news, I realized Hankook TD 221s are on a closing sale on eBay and and some merchants. I bought a set of 2x285/30/18 and 2x295/30/18 tires with soft compound, brand new, at $119 each!!!! Looking forward to trying them out : ) My cheap TSW Nurb 18x10.5 set of wheels will also be delivered this Friday, and I will decide if I should try the Pirelli DH scrubs or the TD 221s first. We'll see : )

And this is how Oregon Raceway Park looks like, and why I like it (safe!!!). I took the video using my Mavic Pro:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUC_0HU_nj8
Awesome. I love tracks with no walls and just runoff for days! Great for testing limits of car and driver. My home track is like that (other than the few flag stations)

Will running a 285/30/18 and 295/30/18 not put the car too low? Front tire is 1" smaller, rear tire is 2" smaller (or vehicle 0.5" lower at front, 1" lower at rear).

Last edited by BrunoTheMellow; 08-29-2017 at 05:10 AM.
Old 08-29-2017, 12:27 PM
  #643  
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Originally Posted by BaylorCorvette

That said, I had a terrible experience geting my coil overs and sway bars. First they send me the rear bar to a C6, they corrected that once I found out..
How can you tell C6 bar from C7? I have one of their earlier C7 bar kits and I do not like the alignment of rear bar to hime joints. Plus mine is constantly popping and clicking as I drive. Getting a lot of noise out of the right rear of car and I keep thinking it is from the sway bar.
Old 08-29-2017, 05:42 PM
  #644  
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Originally Posted by BrunoTheMellow
Awesome. I love tracks with no walls and just runoff for days! Great for testing limits of car and driver. My home track is like that (other than the few flag stations)

Will running a 285/30/18 and 295/30/18 not put the car too low? Front tire is 1" smaller, rear tire is 2" smaller (or vehicle 0.5" lower at front, 1" lower at rear).
Yeah, this will likely leave the car too low, and remove the rake that probably helps in handling and lift. I will hopefully be OK since I will use the trailer to get to the tracks, but even then, I will need to be careful at places of the track where you can bottom out. I'm sure my stiffer springs (over OEM) will help, too. We'll see!

Originally Posted by AKKutz
How can you tell C6 bar from C7? I have one of their earlier C7 bar kits and I do not like the alignment of rear bar to hime --> heim-link? joints. Plus mine is constantly popping and clicking as I drive. Getting a lot of noise out of the right rear of car and I keep thinking it is from the sway bar.
Do you have stiffer endlinks as well? Back when I talked to Anthony (at LG back then), he told me stock endlinks would fail and also get noisy with their sway bars.
Old 08-30-2017, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by X25
Do you have stiffer endlinks as well? Back when I talked to Anthony (at LG back then), he told me stock endlinks would fail and also get noisy with their sway bars.


Yes, I have the heim joint links that LG provides. I have also purchased a variety of bolts, nylocks and washers to try to get the spacing so that the heim isn't binding. Not sure if I have some other issue. I get a lot of creaking etc from right rear on corners and short/sharp inclines (like the driveway into work 5 days a week).
Old 08-30-2017, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by AKKutz
How can you tell C6 bar from C7? I have one of their earlier C7 bar kits and I do not like the alignment of rear bar to hime joints. Plus mine is constantly popping and clicking as I drive. Getting a lot of noise out of the right rear of car and I keep thinking it is from the sway bar.
Originally Posted by AKKutz
Yes, I have the heim joint links that LG provides. I have also purchased a variety of bolts, nylocks and washers to try to get the spacing so that the heim isn't binding. Not sure if I have some other issue. I get a lot of creaking etc from right rear on corners and short/sharp inclines (like the driveway into work 5 days a week).
The C6 rear bar is adjustable. The C7 rear bar is not adjustable.

Funny you mention suspension noise. After my last track event I was driving my car around on the weekend and notice some minor suspension noise from the rear and then a LOUD pop from my front passenger when the steering wheel is at full lock. I've been meaning to check it out but I've been a little preoccupied with Hurricane Harvey. My area (League City) got 54" of rain in the last couple days. Luckily it has passed and my house and Corvette stayed dry! I'll probably check out the suspension this weekend and see what's going on.
Old 08-30-2017, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by AKKutz
Yes, I have the heim joint links that LG provides. I have also purchased a variety of bolts, nylocks and washers to try to get the spacing so that the heim isn't binding. Not sure if I have some other issue. I get a lot of creaking etc from right rear on corners and short/sharp inclines (like the driveway into work 5 days a week).
Originally Posted by BaylorCorvette
The C6 rear bar is adjustable. The C7 rear bar is not adjustable.

Funny you mention suspension noise. After my last track event I was driving my car around on the weekend and notice some minor suspension noise from the rear and then a LOUD pop from my front passenger when the steering wheel is at full lock. I've been meaning to check it out but I've been a little preoccupied with Hurricane Harvey. My area (League City) got 54" of rain in the last couple days. Luckily it has passed and my house and Corvette stayed dry! I'll probably check out the suspension this weekend and see what's going on.
OK I actually have that creaking noise, too! I didn't think too much about it, thinking it's coming from coilovers, but AKKutz if it's happening to you, too, then it must be the sway bars. Perhaps the mounts run out of grease in time? In any case, it's not a noise a new car should make for sure, and it might also be a sign of additional bind at the mounts, etc.,, which is not good for handling.

BaylorCorvette, I'm glad to hear that everything is still OK on your end!

Last edited by X25; 08-30-2017 at 02:30 PM.
Old 09-05-2017, 06:56 AM
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Updates:
  • TPMS leak: It turns out Costco does not use a rebuild kit for TPMS, unless specifically asked (DiscountTire always did without having to tell them). Anyhow, long story short, my R7 rears were slowly leaking when I came back home, and looks like the culprit was the seals that were reused. I found that Schrader 20047 is the correct rebuild kit for us, that comes with stem, seal, nut, and cap. I ordered 16 of them from RockAuto, so I will just provide it to the tire shop when it's time. Speaking of which, I will also switch to my race shop for tire mounts from now on; he does it for similar price, and I don't need to tell him what the use of the tire will be for, etc.
  • Tire-slip: Kamran suggested we can use his old trick from the motorcycle world to prevent slips: Using hair sprayer instead of tire-soap to mount! Hair spray becomes sticky when it dries, so it even improves on the friction. I think it's a great idea, and I already ordered my fashionable large spray can of Vidal-Sassoon hard-hold hair spray : P
  • Rear sway bar noise: I inspected, and greased the rear mounts of the sway bar, and then went out for a test drive to see if the squeak that happens at large droop (i.e. getting into a parking lot, driving over bumps, etc.) is gone, but the answer is no. I always thought it comes from the coilovers anyway, and I honestly don't care enough. I have a truck, an electric car, a Miata, and a bicycle before I'd commute with my now-very-low Corvette.
  • Transmission leak:
    • My transmission has been leaking since Epoch, and I am yet to figure out from where exactly, and why.. except, I might have finally figured it out, today. I decided to not swipe the leak for a while, and drive around to see where the drops accumulate. This test failed at my previous attempts, since 100+ MPH track speeds blew the fluid out of its origin, and I couldn't locate the source.
    • Anyhow, looks like the fill plug is leaking! I opened up the fill plug (the car was level on the lift), and a pressurized air came out as I did. What's more, despite the leaks, there was also transmission oil coming out of the fill plug.
    • Here is my hypothesis: Unlike previous gen Corvettes and other cars I did this service on, filling to the fill plug line from empty ends up overfilling the transmission. This might be due to some interaction between cooler lines and the cooler's fluid; not sure. Once the car runs and purges the air in lines, etc., it pressurizes the main transmission casing, which becomes enough of a force to make the fill plug leak. I did relieve the pressure, and let the excess fluid drain as well (it wasn't much). If it no longer leaks at this point, I think my last remaining big issue with my car will be fixed; fingers crossed!
  • ECO mode: I tried ECO mode many times before, but they were always during my drive to RMP track days, on the highway, with cruise control on. I decided to thoroughly test this mode, yesterday: It is AMAZING! All that nervous throttle and unnecessary surges are gone, the car drives very smoothly, and you can hit amazing fuel consumption on the highway! Right now, I'm feeling stupid that I insisted on running my car in Sport mode in the city. This mode is very stealthy, no one can 'hear' what you're doing with your right foot, and is a joy to drive. This has very much increased my respect to the OEM tune; thanks GM!I'd still much prefer GM removing all 100 lbs of this hardware, and give me no AFM, but if we have to have it, sure, I'll use it : )


The stem, cap, plastic washer (seal), bottom nut, and the top nut (not in pic) all come with the rebuild kit. I do have 16 of them now : )


Used Amsoil NLGI#2 inside the mounts, but made no affect on noise. So they were either not noisy, or both coilovers and the sways squeak.


What happens in ECO mode, stays in ECO mode.

Last edited by X25; 09-05-2017 at 07:01 AM.
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Old 09-05-2017, 08:57 AM
  #649  
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Originally Posted by X25
We did lead-follow through traffic last weekend at ORP. The cars didn't have enough traction for some reason, we were all off a second or two, so we decided to rather have fun playing in the traffic. I do have the NT01s, and my friend's '17 Camaro 1LE has Pirelli DH slicks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDHaCrjXeEk

In other news, I realized Hankook TD 221s are on a closing sale on eBay and and some merchants. I bought a set of 2x285/30/18 and 2x295/30/18 tires with soft compound, brand new, at $119 each!!!! Looking forward to trying them out : ) My cheap TSW Nurb 18x10.5 set of wheels will also be delivered this Friday, and I will decide if I should try the Pirelli DH scrubs or the TD 221s first. We'll see : )

And this is how Oregon Raceway Park looks like, and why I like it (safe!!!). I took the video using my Mavic Pro:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUC_0HU_nj8
What an awesome looking track! I'll have to fit that into a west-coast swing :-) But tell your friend in the Camaro to turn his music volume all the way down when running the PDR on track!
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Old 09-08-2017, 06:26 AM
  #650  
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Getting ready for Monday's ORP track day; it will be fun testing different tires the same day!
I'll have two sets of tires:
  • On CCWs: R7 295/30/18F, 315/30/19R
  • On TSWs: Pirelli DH scrubs 305/660/18F, 315/680/18R
These tires are very similar in size. I used R7s only once, and the scubs, who knows.



Transmission leak seems to be OVER!

What I found:
  • I was never able to figure out where the leak was coming from. The air flow at high speed seems to blow the traces away, making it impossible to trace.
    • I have been driving the car around at low speeds (around town) for the last week, and did not wipe any fluid. When I put it up to the lift, I was able to trace the leak back to the fill plug.
      • When you fill the transmission up to the fill line (until it starts leaking from the plug), it seems to end up overfilling the transmission. No wonder after you run the car for a while, when you open the fill plug again, quite a bit of pressurized air comes out of the plug, as well as a bit of fluid.
        • And yes, this transmission seems to be air-tight. I don't think the older generation Corvettes' transmission were.
          • I let the air out, and waited for the excess fluid to stop flowing, and then put the plug back in.
            • Result: NO LEAK! I'm looking forward to checking it out after the track day as well, but I feel much better about it already.
              • I think this can happen to anyone, and we should note this if anyone has a how-to on transmission fluid change on C7s.


Pirelli DH scrubs on TSW 18x10.5 ET65 wheels.


They are a bit less than 21 lbs, but they're also only rated for 1350 lbs load. At least, they are certified by JWL, VIA, and TUV unlike many other wheels available in the market.


Fronts are nicely tucked in, but can't say the same for rears. It's not the tires' fault, but rather the offset of these wheels for the rear is not aggressive enough. Well, they were very affordable at least : )



The look of rear from its top. It's protruding just a little bit.


The fronts look good. They touched the brake ducting reflector, though, due to offset being too aggressive for fronts. It actually removed some of the balancing weights off : )


The wheel weights touch the bottom side of the brake pad pin lock. Can you see it? No, since I already used black touch up paint after filing them a tiny bit.


So many tires to test before end of the season!

Last edited by X25; 09-07-2018 at 06:59 PM.
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Old 09-08-2017, 08:17 PM
  #651  
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Testing with hair spray was somewhat successful. Front left stays on the mark without moving at all. Front right moves only about 3". I was able to do several 30 minute sessions in 90 degree temps, until both my fronts were corded inside/out!

Just mounted more fronts today, with the hopes of doing some fall/winter trackdays (?). This time I asked my tire guy to mount them dry! No hair spray or soap water. He wanted to use just soap without water, and I said no! he is awesome; I watched him carefully muscle the tires on without ripping the beads off! Don't try this at home!

I'll know how these work in comparison, hopefully this year. But, using soap water is pure madness, after what I experienced with them slipping over a 1/4 of rims!

Last edited by Kamran; 09-08-2017 at 09:10 PM.
Old 09-10-2017, 10:50 PM
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FYI, I asked the guy who changes my tires about TPMS and he does so without removing the TPMS. The seals are never broken, so no rebuild kit is needed.. at least that's his perspective.
Old 09-10-2017, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Kamran
Testing with hair spray was somewhat successful. Front left stays on the mark without moving at all. Front right moves only about 3". I was able to do several 30 minute sessions in 90 degree temps, until both my fronts were corded inside/out!

Just mounted more fronts today, with the hopes of doing some fall/winter trackdays (?). This time I asked my tire guy to mount them dry! No hair spray or soap water. He wanted to use just soap without water, and I said no! he is awesome; I watched him carefully muscle the tires on without ripping the beads off! Don't try this at home!

I'll know how these work in comparison, hopefully this year. But, using soap water is pure madness, after what I experienced with them slipping over a 1/4 of rims!
After talking to you, I also went to the shop with hair spray (Vidal Sassoon Strong hold). I had a few complications:
  • You need to use quite a bit of spray to mount 4 tires. Needless to say, the whole shop smelled great by the time we were done, but I was a bit worried that the nice girly smell might not be what shop owner was looking for. It also makes you a bit high at some point : P I started looking for alternatives (like hair hold putty, etc.) that don't have aerosol.
  • The Pirelli DH scrubs were very tight. So much so, that we needed 100+ PSI to pop them in! We first thought it was caused by the spray, but we later tried with the soap as well, and they also needed a lot of pressure. We did the fronts with spray and rears with the tire soap. We did the same on R7s, but we really could just use the spray: R7s popped in very easily at around 40 PSI.
  • Looks like it gets much easier to mount R7s after the first mount (the first time we did, it required 66+ PSI).
  • All 8 tires/wheels are marked, and I'm hoping to try them out tomorrow. We'll see how it works!
  • Speaking of which, why did you do dry mount? Isn't the hair spray supposed to turn sticky, i.e. even better than using nothing at all?
  • We all know, knurled bead would be a great solution. I'm seriously considering BC Forged wheels. There is a set of red Signature wheels (also manufactured by BC Forged) with knurled bead, etc., 18x11 and 18x13 available in for sale section, but it's for wide-body only. Kamran, perhaps you should grab them?
Originally Posted by daleong
FYI, I asked the guy who changes my tires about TPMS and he does so without removing the TPMS. The seals are never broken, so no rebuild kit is needed.. at least that's his perspective.
Himm, not a bad idea. I can ask that next time, and ask only the stem to be replaced, and nuts re-torqued.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, there's one last project coming up:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1595547349
Originally Posted by X25
I just got the BMS filter, and have a dyno session scheduled on Sep 23rd. The engine is otherwise stock (LT1). I intend to drive with the BMS filter for a while, and let the ECU learn anything it needs to pull back to safety (if it deems necessary). Once done, the dyno should show the regular gains, not additional gains that sometimes happen when you spook the ECU by changing the airflow with a new filter, all in a sudden. Once I get the numbers, I will quickly swap back to stock filter, reset the ECU, and get a few more dyno pulls. This should hopefully return accurate-enough numbers (since ECU is tuned for this filter anyway).

On the top of this, I also plan to analyze my trap speeds at my local tracks, which should also tell me if there was a measurable increase in power.

I'll post results at my build thread. Looking forward to it : )

Last edited by X25; 09-11-2017 at 01:00 AM.
Old 09-11-2017, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by X25
After talking to you, I also went to the shop with hair spray (Vidal Sassoon Strong hold). I had a few complications:[LIST][*]You need to use quite a bit of spray to mount 4 tires. Needless to say, the whole shop smelled great by the time we were done, but I was a bit worried that the nice girly smell might not be what shop owner was looking for. It also makes you a bit high at some point : P I started looking for alternatives (like hair hold putty, etc.) that don't have aerosol.[*]The Pirelli DH scrubs were very tight. So much so, that we needed 100+ PSI to pop them in! We first thought it was caused by the spray, but we later tried with the soap as well, and they also needed a lot of pressure. We did the fronts with spray and rears with the tire soap. We did the same on R7s, but we really could just use the spray: R7s popped in very easily at around 40 PSI.[*]Looks like it gets much easier to mount R7s after the first mount (the first time we did, it required 66+ PSI). [*]All 8 tires/wheels are marked, and I'm hoping to try them out tomorrow. We'll see how it works![*]Speaking of which, why did you do dry mount? Isn't the hair spray supposed to turn sticky, i.e. even better than using nothing at all?[*]We all know, knurled bead would be a great solution. I'm seriously considering BC Forged wheels. There is a set of red Signature wheels (also manufactured by BC Forged) with knurled bead, etc., 18x11 and 18x13 available in for sale section, but it's for wide-body only. Kamran, perhaps you should grab them?
The only issue I have with the hair spray is all the jokes my tire guy dishes out that I have to put up with!

We mount the tires quickly after spraying the beads, without putting on too much before it start drying. I typically give him a hand holding one side up so the tire stays level while he works the other side. He doesn't soak the tires, just enough for a quick mount before drying.

Haven't tried Pirellis since the diameters don't seem come close to a delta of 1", while equal or smaller overall diameters (25.5"+/-/26.5"+/-).

I decided to try a dry mount, because I forgot to take the spray with me. And didn't want to drive back. So it was time for a new experiment, which is worth the try anyway. As long as I don't forget to take it with me, that's the way I'll be mounting my tires. Dry mount is risky since you may rip the tire.

I've seen the red wheels in classified. They are a bit too flashy for my taste. But I'm sure you can get a more suitable color for the same price, once you negotiate!

They are pretty reasonable considering what I would have had to pay for mine to get the knurled edges.

By the way we never had to rebuild tpms's.

Last edited by Kamran; 09-11-2017 at 02:39 AM.
Old 09-11-2017, 02:33 AM
  #655  
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Originally Posted by Kamran
The only issue I have with the hair spray is all the jokes my tire guy dishes out that I have to put up with!

We mount the tires quickly after spraying the beads, without putting on too much before it start drying. I typically give him a hand holding one side up so the tire stays level while he works the other side. He doesn't soak the tires, just enough for a quick mount before drying.

Haven't tried Pirellis since the diameters don't seem come close to a delta of 1", while equal or smaller overall diameters (25.5"+/-/26.5"+/-).

I decided to try a dry mount, because I forgot to take the spray with me. And didn't want to drive back. So it was time for a new experiment, which is worth the try anyway. As long as I don't forget to take it with me, that's the way I'll be mounting my tires. Dry mount is risky since you may rip the tire.

I've seen the red wheels in classified. They are a bit too flashy for my taste. But I'm sure you can get a more suitable color for the same price, once you negotiate!

They are pretty reasonable considering what I would have had to pay for mine to get the knurled edges.

By the way we never had to rebuild tpms's.
C7 is much more forgiving to tire diameters / delta than C6 and prior. Pirelli DH has 18" wheel choices of 305s at 645 and 660mm tall, and a 315 at 680mm tall, and I do have 2 of each. 305/315mm with 660/680mm tall tires seem to be pretty good fit for C7. My 325 NT01s are also about 680mm tall, but since these TSWs are offset outside by 6mm, I may still break my fenders; we'll see!

If that 315/680 ends up being too tall, I will mount the front 660s to rear, and mount 645s to the front for about same diameter difference.
Old 09-11-2017, 02:42 AM
  #656  
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Originally Posted by X25
C7 is much more forgiving to tire diameters / delta than C6 and prior. Pirelli DH has 18" wheel choices of 305s at 645 and 660mm tall, and a 315 at 680mm tall, and I do have 2 of each. 305/315mm with 660/680mm tall tires seem to be pretty good fit for C7. My 325 NT01s are also about 680mm tall, but since these TSWs are offset outside by 6mm, I may still break my fenders; we'll see!

If that 315/680 ends up being too tall, I will mount the front 660s to rear, and mount 645s to the front for about same diameter difference.
My rears are 12.5" (went down from 13"). Not sure if Pirelli has anything that fits me though. I was debating them for a while until I heard GS does better on R7's. I may try R888R's next year so I don't have to ask friends to volunteer hauling my wheels/tires every time!


As far as your new project, I would pay close attention to your A/F ratio, and ask them to print it out if they can hook it up to measure. You want a flat A/F ratio, for a smooth throttle response. If you are going that route, I'd get it tuned to eliminate the torque dip in the 3-4K rpm. I'd love to do that but I fear the wrath of GM warranty police!

Last edited by Kamran; 09-11-2017 at 02:43 AM.
Old 09-12-2017, 05:43 AM
  #657  
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I was at ORP today.



Well, it was hot. It has an impact on lap times. My time with NT01s last time when it was hot (80 degrees F or so) were about 1 second slower last time compared to my best time I got in April (1:53.5 vs. 1:52.2; April lap was probably done at 60-70 degrees F or so).


I had fronts installed with the hair sprayer, and rears with the tire soap. None of the tires moved on the wheels! They were actually very hard to put on (required 100 PSI). I presume they're made a bit tight to avoid movement on wheel; great, thanks Pirelli : )


The rears rubbed a little bit with the wheels offset 6mm outwards, but it was very little. Looks like 18x10.5 TSW Nurburgrings with 305/660/18F, 315/680/18R work just fine.


These tires pick up a lot. A LOT. At $550/set shipped, it's a pretty good deal. Even if the life of these tires is 3x lower than NT01s, they would still make financial sense (provided they perform well).

This is the video of the fastest lap. Disregard # of laps; I just never turned off the lap timer between my sessions. I did 1:52.3 on CCW direction, which is same as my personal best on CW. Considering it was hot, I think I can do even better times when it gets colder.


Well, I stripped one of the lug nuts, and could not clean up the threads enough. As such, I was not able to switch to R7s for test : ( It got pretty warm in the afternoon, anyway, so perhaps it's not too big of a deal. Regardless, I'll be carrying extra lug nuts from now on : )

Last edited by X25; 09-12-2017 at 05:45 AM.
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To '16 Z51 Arctic White track build

Old 09-12-2017, 11:13 PM
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daleong
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For the transmission leak, I had a buddy who has access to the service manuals look up the transmission fluid drain/fill procedure and it is noted to run the car for 2 minutes in neutral after the initial fill. This is for the fluid to recirculate. Then you have to reopen the fill plug and verify the fluid is at the correct level. Much like the differential drain/fill process.

So by trial and error, I think you got to the GM recommended service procedure
Old 09-12-2017, 11:23 PM
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X25
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Originally Posted by daleong
For the transmission leak, I had a buddy who has access to the service manuals look up the transmission fluid drain/fill procedure and it is noted to run the car for 2 minutes in neutral after the initial fill. This is for the fluid to recirculate. Then you have to reopen the fill plug and verify the fluid is at the correct level. Much like the differential drain/fill process.

So by trial and error, I think you got to the GM recommended service procedure
I actually did that, but it was not enough. I can't say that it would happen to everyone, since I fitted Z06 cooler core in there, but mine needed a bit of driving. What's surprising to me is that after running the transmission, I'd think It would need more fluid since it would be bring air from lines, not less : )

Last edited by X25; 09-12-2017 at 11:29 PM.
Old 09-13-2017, 02:54 PM
  #660  
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lol @ 80*F being "hot" my last track event it was 101! 80*F is my fall/winter temps mid day!


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