'16 Z51 Arctic White track build
#141
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
Man, great thread! Very detailed and excellent pics. Thanks for detailing this for everyone.
I lived in Edmonds up until 2.5 years ago(wish I still did). Where are going to be tracking the car? Pacific Raceway? I probably missed that, but I know I saw you say something about 2-2.5 hours away, so I'm not sure where that would be.
I lived in Edmonds up until 2.5 years ago(wish I still did). Where are going to be tracking the car? Pacific Raceway? I probably missed that, but I know I saw you say something about 2-2.5 hours away, so I'm not sure where that would be.
I frequent Ridge Motorsports Park in Shelton, WA and Oregon Raceway Park in Grass Valley, OR. RMP is about 1.5 hrs away, next to Olympia, and ORP is 4.5 hrs away. I usually tow my car to ORP, just so I can relax and enjoy the trip without having to hear my track tires growl and wear down for 5 hours : )
I have no idea; it's not documented anywhere I looked. That said, I'd imagine it's the same design of shock with stiffer track valving.
Last edited by X25; 07-15-2016 at 02:19 PM.
The following users liked this post:
juanvaldez (07-15-2016)
#142
Burning Brakes
What grabbed my attention was that both had the same motor (ABL-600 or something like that). Then I looked up the part numbers. What came with the car is 23297387. Look up this part, and you'll see it's listed for both Z51 and Z06:
http://www.iamgmparts.com/chevrolet/..._name=fan-assy
http://www.iamgmparts.com/chevrolet/..._name=fan-assy
Ouch, guess I have a spare fan. I could have sworn the one I took off my car had a sticker that read ABL-500 and the one I put on my car was ABL-600. I could just need new glasses..... money wasted.
#143
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
Is yours 2016 Z51? I wonder if they made the switch at some point for the Z51 cars, too.
#144
Burning Brakes
At least you might be able to send yours back. I can't, I bought it off another member who traded his C7 for an AMG........
Last edited by AKKutz; 07-15-2016 at 02:49 PM.
#146
Racer
Great job on this thread X25. My wife would murder me if my car was in pieces all over the garage. I had to send her out of town the weekend I installed the Z06 grill. I was really hoping the Z06 brake upgrade would have worked with stock 19/20 wheels with only a minimal spacer. Really wanted to do this mod. Especially with the price you found it for. Guess I'll have to go with the Racing Brake two piece rotors unless DBA releases their 5000 series in Z51 fitment. Once again, great job. Can't wait to see how it performs on track.
The following users liked this post:
X25 (07-15-2016)
#148
Pro
ps. Does the fan size really help when on track anyway? I'd think the fan isn't doing too much when at speed... but maybe in the slow corners?
#149
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
I frequent Ridge Motorsports Park in Shelton, WA and Oregon Raceway Park in Grass Valley, OR. RMP is about 1.5 hrs away, next to Olympia, and ORP is 4.5 hrs away. I usually tow my car to ORP, just so I can relax and enjoy the trip without having to hear my track tires growl and wear down for 5 hours : )
I have no idea; it's not documented anywhere I looked. That said, I'd imagine it's the same design of shock with stiffer track valving.
I frequent Ridge Motorsports Park in Shelton, WA and Oregon Raceway Park in Grass Valley, OR. RMP is about 1.5 hrs away, next to Olympia, and ORP is 4.5 hrs away. I usually tow my car to ORP, just so I can relax and enjoy the trip without having to hear my track tires growl and wear down for 5 hours : )
I have no idea; it's not documented anywhere I looked. That said, I'd imagine it's the same design of shock with stiffer track valving.
#150
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
#151
Melting Slicks
#152
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Lewisville TX
Posts: 16,898
Received 406 Likes
on
300 Posts
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Our 2008-2009 ALMS GT2 Corvette would make 490-502 rwhp through legal air restrictions. I do not expect to see a huge HP change in the cars from then til now, as lap times at most tracks have not changed that much.
The following users liked this post:
Kamran (07-16-2016)
#153
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
Did a little bit of number crunching to figure out where I stand on unsprung suspension weight:
So for combination of wheels, tires, brakes, lug nuts (rears missing caliper weights since they're identical):
Verdict:
- Brakes:
- Z06 rotors: front 23.8 lbs, rear 24.8 lbs.
- Z51 rotors: front 20.2 lbs, rear 18.1 lbs.
- Z06 front calipers: 9.3 lbs empty; 14.1 lbs loaded.
- Z51 front calipers: 13 lbs loaded.
- DBA 5000 T3 front rings (only): 23.4 lbs.
- Lug nuts:
- OEM 2.2lbs.
- Improved Racing Alu 1.1lbs
- CCW chrome 2.7 lbs.
- Wheel/tire combos
- Stock Z51: 51.5 lbs front, 60 lbs rear.
- Stock Z06: 55.5 lbs front, 63.5 lbs rear.
- CCW w/NT01s: 47 lbs front, 53.8 lbs rear.
- Z51
- Front: 20.2 + 13 + 0.6 + 51.5 = 85.3 lbs
- Rear: 18.1 + 0.6 + 60 = 78.7lbs
- Z06
- Front: 23.8 + 14.1 + 0.6 + 55.5 = 94 lbs
- Rear: 24.8 + 0.6 + 63.5 = 88.9 lbs
- My setup
- Front: 23.8 + 14.1 + 0.3 + 47 = 85.2 lbs
- Rear: 24.8 + 0.3 + 53.8 = 78.9 lbs
Verdict:
- Even though I didn't plan for it, my unsprung weight is remarkably almost identical to stock Z51, despite having much bigger brakes!
- Another reveal is that I'm about 10 lbs lighter PER CORNER from Z06 iron brake setup, and this doesn't even include the weight difference of MRC system.
- Considering the savings mostly come from rotating mass (tires) with a very high diameter, this should even feel lighter than stock Z51, despite having the same overall weight.
- I could not find Z07 specific weight numbers, but I have a feeling that the light CC rotors would not be able to overcome all these savings.
Last edited by X25; 07-20-2016 at 02:45 PM.
#154
Safety Car
Where do you buy all your oem parts at? Like the D shape, wheel, etc.
#155
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
I came up with a master list of parts, and queried a few online dealers for their best pricing. In the end, I went with TrunkMonkeyParts for the most of it (which cost about $6K), though I've sourced a few parts (suede-wrapped shifter boot, aux rad) from Cultrag since they had it in stock, and the other parts that I added later on from IAmGMParts.com since they usually offer the best price online.
In short, if you know what you exactly are looking for, you can query these dealers and get a bid.
In short, if you know what you exactly are looking for, you can query these dealers and get a bid.
Last edited by X25; 09-17-2016 at 05:56 AM.
The following users liked this post:
X25 (07-18-2016)
#157
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
Almost finished!!! I think it's now ready for the first track day (once alignment is redone).
Everything is now done except: rear LCAs, side rocker panels, seat/harness.
Here is the cooling duct for power steering cooler. I think I cut it a bit too short on the PS side, but well, it should still help.
Here is the ducting seen from the front.
Front splitter and the canards finished! Overall, the quality was good, but two of their bolt locations were unaccessible (due to a plastic piece inside the bumper). I'm guessing APR dit not have that piece in their test car.
GM's instructions on how to remove the ball joint was WRONG! The tool they referred to only works when the whole suspension is removed, while there is another tool (the correct one) which would allow me to remove the ball joint by merely removing the dust covers. Oh well, I did it (for the fronts).
I decided to leave the rear LCAs to the dealer (when I eventually replace my NT01s with RE71s), since it involves lowering the whole rear subframe, and I did not like the implications, since even the transmission is at the rear.
Everything is now done except: rear LCAs, side rocker panels, seat/harness.
Here is the cooling duct for power steering cooler. I think I cut it a bit too short on the PS side, but well, it should still help.
Here is the ducting seen from the front.
Front splitter and the canards finished! Overall, the quality was good, but two of their bolt locations were unaccessible (due to a plastic piece inside the bumper). I'm guessing APR dit not have that piece in their test car.
GM's instructions on how to remove the ball joint was WRONG! The tool they referred to only works when the whole suspension is removed, while there is another tool (the correct one) which would allow me to remove the ball joint by merely removing the dust covers. Oh well, I did it (for the fronts).
I decided to leave the rear LCAs to the dealer (when I eventually replace my NT01s with RE71s), since it involves lowering the whole rear subframe, and I did not like the implications, since even the transmission is at the rear.
Last edited by X25; 07-20-2016 at 09:58 AM.
#158
Pro
Looks awesome! Terrific work and thank you for posting all the pics and details.
One question - in the pic of the PS cooling ducting from the front, where is the cut out for the GM secondary cooler? Was this before you installed it?
Thanks.
One question - in the pic of the PS cooling ducting from the front, where is the cut out for the GM secondary cooler? Was this before you installed it?
Thanks.
#159
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
I actually double-checked during installation since I also initially thought it would be required, but instructions ask that the cover is simply installed back with no cutouts. Perhaps the entering air is supposed to be always going out from main rad, and it's supposed to pull air through the aux rad as well? The bottom cover has channels/baffles, and there's about 1" of space between the aux rad and cover.
Last edited by X25; 07-20-2016 at 04:28 PM.
#160
Pro
The instructions don't state that I should cut anything on the front cover, so I didn't. Perhaps it doesn't need it, that's what I thought? Is there anyone who has the secondary rad with installed pics?
I actually double-checked during installation since I also initially thought it would be required, but instructions ask that the cover is simply installed back with no cutouts. Perhaps the entering air is supposed to be always going out from main rad, and it's supposed to pull air through the aux rad as well? The bottom cover has channels/baffles, and there's about 1" of space between the aux rad and cover.
I actually double-checked during installation since I also initially thought it would be required, but instructions ask that the cover is simply installed back with no cutouts. Perhaps the entering air is supposed to be always going out from main rad, and it's supposed to pull air through the aux rad as well? The bottom cover has channels/baffles, and there's about 1" of space between the aux rad and cover.
Well that addresses the concern I had about the radiator getting damage from road debris with an open cover.. planning on buying one if needed in the future.
Thanks X25.