How-To: Install Z06 transmission cooler on an M7 Z51
07-05-2016, 07:34 AM
#1
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
How-To: Install Z06 transmission cooler on an M7 Z51
(I will update this first post and thread if anyone comes up with better ideas, and once I test it out at the track)
WARNING:
The red plug one the left is for drain, and right is for fill. Don't forget to open up the fill plug once you start draining from the other plug to relieve pressure as it drains; makes it faster.
As you can see, the difference in size between the cooler cores is huge. Fear not, it (barely) fits. Remove the 10mm bolt of the bottom mount, and the black 12mm nut at the top to set the cooler loose. It will stay in its place since the lines keep it there.
Remove the line-holder tabs with a 10mm deep socket (or wrench for the one by the diff). There are two such tabs, and unbolting them will make it much easier to remove, realign and re-insert the lines.
The other tab is by the diff.
With a hook-pick, remove the retaining rings on the lines. Once they're out, you can pull the lines out.
Make sure you have an oil pan under the lines, since the cooler core will drain once you pull the lines out. Once the lines are pulled out, go ahead, and remove the core, too.
This is how the ducting looks like, OEM. As you can see, it is matching the original cooler core in size.
You need to cut it with a blade to match the shape/size of the new core. This pic above shows how I did it; it spans about 95% of the new core when cut this way.
The top mount of the Z06 core mounts a little higher than OEM Z51, and we have to drill a new hole for the top mount with a hole maker drill bit. Don't worry, it's very easy since the tabs are aluminum.
Marked the location with a regular drill-bit.
What I used to make the hole.
Done!
We will use the Z06 top mount with new hole, and Z51 bottom mount (moved over to the new core using only the left 13mm bolt under the core).
Go ahead, and install the lines. They should just snap in. Once they are, put back their locking (black) rings. Don't forget to install the line tabs back. The line tab by the diff is not impacted, but the tab close to the core will no longer be holding the lines at the right angle. I was able to use a regular 10mm nut (not a 10mm nut with a joint washer like the OEM piece) to tighten it a bit, so it still works.
Once lines are done, we can put back the 10mm bottom mount bolt. I did not tighten the 13mm bolt on the cooler core's bottom until everything else was done, to make sure I can turn the core around and give it the right angle for best fitment.
Since the carpet (fender liner) shape is slightly changed due to changes inside the fender, the OEM mud flap will not want to fit right. I trimmed the inside part of it, which took the tension out, and it fit perfect.
The (accessory extended OEM version) mud flap, installed.
WARNING:
- This mod involves modifying the ducting and bracket. Please read the whole list of instructions before you decide this is something you would like to do. It is not a direct bolt-on (though GM might one day come up with a kit).
- If you don't do the steps properly (e.g. not adding enough transmission fluid, etc.), you can damage your car. Please note, if you decide to do this mod, it is your responsibility to make sure you don't damage your car.
- This is a pretty tight fit. Again, check it out in the pics before you start this endevor
- Z06 transmission cooler core: Part # 23283460.
- A stepped drill-bit.
- (Optional) 10mm regular nut from your hardware store.
- New transmission fluid; you need about 4-4.5 quarts with the new cooler core.
- Fluid pump for the fill.
- Tools:
- Blade to cut and enlarge the ducting.
- 7mm, 10mm, T15 (torx), hook-pick to remove the bumper.
- In addition to above, 10mm deep socket (or wrench), 12mm wrench, 13mm socket for the cooler core replacement.
- Remove the bumper as explained here.
- Drain the transmission fluid.
The red plug one the left is for drain, and right is for fill. Don't forget to open up the fill plug once you start draining from the other plug to relieve pressure as it drains; makes it faster.
- Z06 vs. stock cooler core:
As you can see, the difference in size between the cooler cores is huge. Fear not, it (barely) fits. Remove the 10mm bolt of the bottom mount, and the black 12mm nut at the top to set the cooler loose. It will stay in its place since the lines keep it there.
- Removing the lines from stock cooler core:
Remove the line-holder tabs with a 10mm deep socket (or wrench for the one by the diff). There are two such tabs, and unbolting them will make it much easier to remove, realign and re-insert the lines.
The other tab is by the diff.
With a hook-pick, remove the retaining rings on the lines. Once they're out, you can pull the lines out.
Make sure you have an oil pan under the lines, since the cooler core will drain once you pull the lines out. Once the lines are pulled out, go ahead, and remove the core, too.
- Modifying ducting:
This is how the ducting looks like, OEM. As you can see, it is matching the original cooler core in size.
You need to cut it with a blade to match the shape/size of the new core. This pic above shows how I did it; it spans about 95% of the new core when cut this way.
- Modifying mounts:
The top mount of the Z06 core mounts a little higher than OEM Z51, and we have to drill a new hole for the top mount with a hole maker drill bit. Don't worry, it's very easy since the tabs are aluminum.
Marked the location with a regular drill-bit.
What I used to make the hole.
Done!
- Installing the new core:
We will use the Z06 top mount with new hole, and Z51 bottom mount (moved over to the new core using only the left 13mm bolt under the core).
Go ahead, and install the lines. They should just snap in. Once they are, put back their locking (black) rings. Don't forget to install the line tabs back. The line tab by the diff is not impacted, but the tab close to the core will no longer be holding the lines at the right angle. I was able to use a regular 10mm nut (not a 10mm nut with a joint washer like the OEM piece) to tighten it a bit, so it still works.
Once lines are done, we can put back the 10mm bottom mount bolt. I did not tighten the 13mm bolt on the cooler core's bottom until everything else was done, to make sure I can turn the core around and give it the right angle for best fitment.
- Trim the mud-flap:
Since the carpet (fender liner) shape is slightly changed due to changes inside the fender, the OEM mud flap will not want to fit right. I trimmed the inside part of it, which took the tension out, and it fit perfect.
The (accessory extended OEM version) mud flap, installed.
- Remaining Steps:
- Re-fill transmission fluid.
- Start the engine, let it idle in neutral (clutch not pressed in, so the neutral shaft can turn) for a short while.
- Check fluid level.
- Start the car, rev it below 2000 RPMs. If you can, turn off Traction/Stability controls, and even shift it to first gear; let it turn the wheels.
- Check fluid level and top off the fluid again.
- Hopefully, running the car and transmission cycled the fluid around, and the cooler core is now full of fluid. This second step also takes care of 'air buildup', that not even GM takes care of during production. When the transmission's pump fills the lines and the core, air is returned to the transmission housing, creating positive pressure in the housing. Opening the refill plug back will relieve that pressure buildup, too.
- Re-install the rear bumper as per instructions linked above.
- DONE!
Last edited by X25; 04-01-2020 at 07:20 PM.
The following 7 users liked this post by X25:
360Lemans (07-05-2016),
AKKutz (07-05-2016),
BaylorCorvette (07-05-2016),
daleong (07-05-2016),
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and 2 others liked this post.
07-05-2016, 01:49 PM
#4
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
I have no idea how that would fit. Perhaps someone could get it and try? Besides that, I'd honestly not bother buying the lines; they worked well in my opinion.
Thank you! Yep, the auto cars have the fan.
Thank you! Yep, the auto cars have the fan.
Last edited by X25; 07-05-2016 at 02:42 PM.
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Harris (07-05-2016)
07-05-2016, 05:38 PM
#5
Pro
07-05-2016, 05:43 PM
#6
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
The lines are flexible enough to accommodate anything there. I don't see why A8 fan would not work. We certainly have space and also the mounts on all cores to handle fan. That said, Z06 A8's fan might be too big to fit; another thing to be tried by a brave soul who has an A8
07-06-2016, 07:02 AM
#7
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
Regarding which ducting to use (Z51 or Z06):
The ducting seems to be pretty efficient on using the space. Z06 ducting could be using more space since its fender is wider, causing trouble. I'm guessing using Z51 is a safer bet.
What to do with the stock Z51 transmission oil cooler core:
Wondering what you can do with the OEM Z51 M7 transmission cooler? Well, looks like you could use it as a diff cooler? : ))) The bottom mounts of the diff and transmission cooler are identical, but the transmission cooler is much taller. I don't have any intentions to try this any time soon, but if my diff overheats, this will be another project to see if it works
The ducting seems to be pretty efficient on using the space. Z06 ducting could be using more space since its fender is wider, causing trouble. I'm guessing using Z51 is a safer bet.
What to do with the stock Z51 transmission oil cooler core:
Wondering what you can do with the OEM Z51 M7 transmission cooler? Well, looks like you could use it as a diff cooler? : ))) The bottom mounts of the diff and transmission cooler are identical, but the transmission cooler is much taller. I don't have any intentions to try this any time soon, but if my diff overheats, this will be another project to see if it works
Last edited by X25; 07-06-2016 at 07:10 AM.
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daleong (07-06-2016)
07-08-2016, 01:26 AM
#8
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Member Since: Jun 2015
Location: New Orleans LA
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16
What to do with the stock Z51 transmission oil cooler core:
Wondering what you can do with the OEM Z51 M7 transmission cooler? Well, looks like you could use it as a diff cooler? : ))) The bottom mounts of the diff and transmission cooler are identical, but the transmission cooler is much taller. I don't have any intentions to try this any time soon, but if my diff overheats, this will be another project to see if it works
Wondering what you can do with the OEM Z51 M7 transmission cooler? Well, looks like you could use it as a diff cooler? : ))) The bottom mounts of the diff and transmission cooler are identical, but the transmission cooler is much taller. I don't have any intentions to try this any time soon, but if my diff overheats, this will be another project to see if it works
JV
07-08-2016, 05:49 AM
#9
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
I recently (DIY) installed the oversized LG tranny oil cooler on my Z51 A8, and then had my speed shop install the smaller OEM unit under the rear transverse member as a secondary cooler, spliced into the return line. I plan on testing it at the track in New Orleans this weekend. Temps will be in the mid 90's with high humidity and heat index of 112. I hope the car holds up as long as I do, and vice versa.
JV
JV
Last edited by X25; 07-08-2016 at 05:50 AM.
07-14-2016, 12:30 PM
#10
Instructor
Doing the oil cooler anytime soon?
Thx X25, i have been waiting for this for too long
I am looking at a Grand Sport right now
I wonder if its going to have a normal Z51 Tranny cooler or a
Z06 Version, I'd also imagine the GS will fit the cooler better with the larger panel space
and a Z06 like structure!
Thx X25, i have been waiting for this for too long
I am looking at a Grand Sport right now
I wonder if its going to have a normal Z51 Tranny cooler or a
Z06 Version, I'd also imagine the GS will fit the cooler better with the larger panel space
and a Z06 like structure!
The following users liked this post:
X25 (07-14-2016)
07-14-2016, 01:38 PM
#12
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
Doing the oil cooler anytime soon?
Thx X25, i have been waiting for this for too long
I am looking at a Grand Sport right now
I wonder if its going to have a normal Z51 Tranny cooler or a
Z06 Version, I'd also imagine the GS will fit the cooler better with the larger panel space
and a Z06 like structure!
Thx X25, i have been waiting for this for too long
I am looking at a Grand Sport right now
I wonder if its going to have a normal Z51 Tranny cooler or a
Z06 Version, I'd also imagine the GS will fit the cooler better with the larger panel space
and a Z06 like structure!
I didn't get the question about oil cooler. Do you mean engine oil cooler? I don't intend to add such a cooler, but I'll install the aux rad tonight : )
07-14-2016, 01:39 PM
#13
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
03-29-2019, 01:18 PM
#14
Great job 🙌 are you able to do this same change to and auto transmission car ?
(I will update this first post and thread if anyone comes up with better ideas, and once I test it out at the track)
WARNING:
The red plug one the left is for drain, and right is for fill. Don't forget to open up the fill plug once you start draining from the other plug to relieve pressure as it drains; makes it faster.
As you can see, the difference in size between the cooler cores is huge. Fear not, it (barely) fits. Remove the 10mm bolt of the bottom mount, and the black 12mm nut at the top to set the cooler loose. It will stay in its place since the lines keep it there.
Remove the line-holder tabs with a 10mm deep socket (or wrench for the one by the diff). There are two such tabs, and unbolting them will make it much easier to remove, realign and re-insert the lines.
The other tab by the diff.
With a hook-pick, remove the retaining rings on the lines. Once they're out, you can pull the lines out.
Make sure you have an oil pan under the lines, since the cooler core will drain once you pull the lines out. Once the lines are pulled out, go ahead, and remove the core, too.
This is how the ducting looks like, OEM. As you can see, it is matching the original cooler core in size.
You need to cut it with a blade to match the shape/size of the new core. This pic above shows how I did it; it spans about 95% of the new core when cut this way.
The top mount of the Z06 core mounts a little higher than OEM Z51, and we have to drill a new hole for the top mount with a hole maker drill bit. Don't worry, it's very easy since the tabs are aluminum.
Marked the location with a regular drill-bit.
What I used to make the hole.
Done!
We will use the Z06 top mount with new hole, and Z51 bottom mount (moved over to the new core using only the left 13mm bolt under the core).
Go ahead, and install the lines. They should just snap in. Once they are, put back their locking (black) rings. Don't forget to install the line tabs back. The line tab by the diff is not impacted, but the tab close to the core will no longer be holding the lines at the right angle. I was able to use a regular 10mm nut (not a 10mm nut with a joint washer like the OEM piece) to tighten it a bit, so it still works.
Once lines are done, we can put back the 10mm bottom mount bolt. I did not tighten the 13mm bolt on the cooler core's bottom until everything else was done, to make sure I can turn the core around and give it the right angle for best fitment.
Since the carpet (fender liner) shape is slightly changed due to changes inside the fender, the OEM mud flap will not want to fit right. I trimmed the inside part of it, which took the tension out, and it fit perfect.
The (accessory extended OEM version) mud flap, installed.
WARNING:
- This mod involves modifying the ducting and bracket. Please read the whole list of instructions before you decide this is something you would like to do. It is not a direct bolt-on (though GM might one day come up with a kit).
- If you don't do the steps properly (e.g. not adding enough transmission fluid, etc.), you can damage your car. Please note, if you decide to do this mod, it is your responsibility to make sure you don't damage your car.
- This is a pretty tight fit. Again, check it out in the pics before you start this endevor
- Z06 transmission cooler core: Part # 23283460.
- A stepped drill-bit.
- (Optional) 10mm regular nut from your hardware store.
- New transmission fluid; you need about 4-4.5 quarts with the new cooler core.
- Fluid pump for the fill.
- Tools:
- Blade to cut and enlarge the ducting.
- 7mm, 10mm, T15 (torx), hook-pick to remove the bumper.
- In addition to above, 10mm deep socket (or wrench), 12mm wrench, 13mm socket for the cooler core replacement.
- Remove the bumper as explained here.
- Drain the transmission fluid.
The red plug one the left is for drain, and right is for fill. Don't forget to open up the fill plug once you start draining from the other plug to relieve pressure as it drains; makes it faster.
- Z06 vs. stock cooler core:
As you can see, the difference in size between the cooler cores is huge. Fear not, it (barely) fits. Remove the 10mm bolt of the bottom mount, and the black 12mm nut at the top to set the cooler loose. It will stay in its place since the lines keep it there.
- Removing the lines from stock cooler core:
Remove the line-holder tabs with a 10mm deep socket (or wrench for the one by the diff). There are two such tabs, and unbolting them will make it much easier to remove, realign and re-insert the lines.
The other tab by the diff.
With a hook-pick, remove the retaining rings on the lines. Once they're out, you can pull the lines out.
Make sure you have an oil pan under the lines, since the cooler core will drain once you pull the lines out. Once the lines are pulled out, go ahead, and remove the core, too.
- Modifying ducting:
This is how the ducting looks like, OEM. As you can see, it is matching the original cooler core in size.
You need to cut it with a blade to match the shape/size of the new core. This pic above shows how I did it; it spans about 95% of the new core when cut this way.
- Modifying mounts:
The top mount of the Z06 core mounts a little higher than OEM Z51, and we have to drill a new hole for the top mount with a hole maker drill bit. Don't worry, it's very easy since the tabs are aluminum.
Marked the location with a regular drill-bit.
What I used to make the hole.
Done!
- Installing the new core:
We will use the Z06 top mount with new hole, and Z51 bottom mount (moved over to the new core using only the left 13mm bolt under the core).
Go ahead, and install the lines. They should just snap in. Once they are, put back their locking (black) rings. Don't forget to install the line tabs back. The line tab by the diff is not impacted, but the tab close to the core will no longer be holding the lines at the right angle. I was able to use a regular 10mm nut (not a 10mm nut with a joint washer like the OEM piece) to tighten it a bit, so it still works.
Once lines are done, we can put back the 10mm bottom mount bolt. I did not tighten the 13mm bolt on the cooler core's bottom until everything else was done, to make sure I can turn the core around and give it the right angle for best fitment.
- Trim the mud-flap:
Since the carpet (fender liner) shape is slightly changed due to changes inside the fender, the OEM mud flap will not want to fit right. I trimmed the inside part of it, which took the tension out, and it fit perfect.
The (accessory extended OEM version) mud flap, installed.
- Remaining Steps:
- Re-fill transmission fluid.
- Start the engine, let it idle in neutral (clutch not pressed in, so the neutral shaft can turn) for a short while.
- Check fluid level.
- Start the car, rev it below 2000 RPMs. If you can, turn off Traction/Stability controls, and even shift it to first gear; let it turn the wheels.
- Check fluid level and top off the fluid again.
- Hopefully, running the car and transmission cycled the fluid around, and the cooler core is now full of fluid. This second step also takes care of 'air buildup', that not even GM takes care of during production. When the transmission's pump fills the lines and the core, air is returned to the transmission housing, creating positive pressure in the housing. Opening the refill plug back will relieve that pressure buildup, too.
- Re-install the rear bumper as per instructions linked above.
- DONE!
03-29-2019, 03:06 PM
#15
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
I remember a forum member mentioning that he replaced the oil cooler core with the larger one for his auto car, and also put the older one back in line by the rear leaf springs for additional cooling, which finally let him drive the car at the track without any overheating issues. GM started installing secondary cooler up front on auto cars (starting 2016?); that might also be a good solution to retrofit for older MY auto cars. Starting 2017, that secondary cooler location was also used for all Z51/52/06 manual cars as aux radiator.
Last edited by X25; 03-29-2019 at 03:07 PM.
03-29-2019, 04:19 PM
#16
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Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: cookeville tennessee
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ttt
^^^^ to the one guy above this last post yes you can put the cooler in a a8 car. I have a 2014 z51 that I did the LG cooler in my A6 car plus I mounted the stock trans cooler in place also. But again here no fans on the LG plus I also did a Z06 GM body panel chg out on my 2014 z51 car.. I did all the work other than the painting on the panels.
OP here very nice write up on the mod... Robert
OP here very nice write up on the mod... Robert
Last edited by robert miller; 03-29-2019 at 04:21 PM.
04-10-2019, 12:03 PM
#17
Instructor
Love this, just had the rear end done but discovered this too late. So will have to take it off again to do this. Anyway, what was the result in terms of trans oil temps on the track. Mine go up to 307 on a 80 F day.
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goec2468 (04-01-2020)
04-01-2020, 06:13 PM
#19
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Thread Starter
The shared albums were deleted by mistake, but let me see if I still have at least some of the pics. Checking it out, now.