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Track alignment specs are in the manual. Trick is finding a dealer with the proper tool and gauge for the rear caster. Super critical that it's set properly. Even an ask Tadge about the rear caster:
I agree, these should be the first settings you should start with. I have the track setting on my Z (w/o rear caster measurement because nobody had tools) and the one autocross I ran it in netted me FTD against some pretty fast modded C4s and a really fast modded C2. The closest they got to my time was .7 seconds. With R7s the car handled great and PTM Mode was fantastic coming off corners. Cup2s would work great as well.
Bill
Originally Posted by xp800
Track alignment specs are in the manual. Trick is finding a dealer with the proper tool and gauge for the rear caster. Super critical that it's set properly. Even an ask Tadge about the rear caster:
This is a question best asked in the Autox and RRing forum. You are getting answers for Track alignment and in my experience Track and Autox alignment are different primarily in the toe settings. As autox has many more very tight turns you will find many folks like different toe settings than would ever be used on a track.
I used to actually change toe 2 flats out at the autox site as I wanted enough toe out that I didn't want to drive the car on the street in that condition.
This is a question best asked in the Autox and RRing forum. You are getting answers for Track alignment and in my experience Track and Autox alignment are different primarily in the toe settings. As autox has many more very tight turns you will find many folks like different toe settings than would ever be used on a track.
I used to actually change toe 2 flats out at the autox site as I wanted enough toe out that I didn't want to drive the car on the street in that condition.
Actually, I posted the same thread in autocrossing forum and to date have had 219 people read it and zero respond. Thanks for the suggestion, though.
Actually, I posted the same thread in autocrossing forum and to date have had 219 people read it and zero respond. Thanks for the suggestion, though.
ok, let me try and help. Start with the track alignment. But add more front toe out at the front. But you can not run an autocrat alignment on the street unless you are good enough to have a tire contract. I would run essentially zero toe on the front and a touch of toe in in the rear, but had spent enough time on a rack that I knew how many flats to turn and in which direction to get a 1/4 in total toe out in the front and an 1/8 out in back. Now that will make the car twitchy as hell but for a track you want stability but for an autocross twitchy can be good as you need extreme and immediate turn in. Also tire killing camber is good. You can get to much camber for a track but on the quick tight transitions of a parking lot course you don't worry about the camber upsetting high speed braking as much.
now having said all that you still need some current advice from someone nationally competitive running a Corvette. So call Sam Strano and ask him what he runs. You can find him over on the autos/rring forum
ok, let me try and help. Start with the track alignment. But add more front toe out at the front. But you can not run an autocrat alignment on the street unless you are good enough to have a tire contract. I would run essentially zero toe on the front and a touch of toe in in the rear, but had spent enough time on a rack that I knew how many flats to turn and in which direction to get a 1/4 in total toe out in the front and an 1/8 out in back. Now that will make the car twitchy as hell but for a track you want stability but for an autocross twitchy can be good as you need extreme and immediate turn in. Also tire killing camber is good. You can get to much camber for a track but on the quick tight transitions of a parking lot course you don't worry about the camber upsetting high speed braking as much.
now having said all that you still need some current advice from someone nationally competitive running a Corvette. So call Sam Strano and ask him what he runs. You can find him over on the autos/rring forum
camber does not kill tires, toe kills tires. I run neg camber all year.
camber does not kill tires, toe kills tires. I run neg camber all year.
You are mostly correct. High negative camber does not kill the 80% of the tire to the outside of the car. I suppose I was only partly correct as neg camber just kills the 20% inside edge of the tire. And you may be able to run neg camber "all year" but you are killing the inside edge of your tires unless you only drive the Tail of The Dragon and nowhere else.
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