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Thanks. I am having the shop do the install and alignment, so I just wanted to know what to tell them. I just wasn't sure if the shims created any sort of riding issue with the long tabs on them, where installing a (1) stock washer next to the frame would eliminate that.
No - you won't have any problem at all with any riding.
Do you have the camber kit?
Who is doing your alignment - a dealership? If so, then they'll know the torque specs for the bolts for the dogbones, as well as the bolts for the LCA's.
If it will be a performance shop, hopefully they'll know the required torque specs, which are quite high to try to get the eccentrics tight so they won't slip.
One of the things that some owners have had a problem with is getting toe adjusted properly. I have the Granatelli adjustable toe-links which make it very easy to set toe.
Mark@AMT Motorsport has the Granatelli links, and also supplies a plate to lock in the toe. Without Mark's plates, the Granatellis use the stock eccentric on the cradle end.
Mark's plates should take all the worry out of your toe alignment slipping!!
Below is the OE toe link. You can see it's just a solid rod. The entire toe alignment is done with an eccentric washer - it has a very limited range of adjustment, is difficult to make adjustments to toe (especially to fine tune it!), and is susceptible to slippage:
And below is the right rear of my car with the Granatelli adjustable tie-rod type link. At the very left end you can just make out the OE eccentric behind the stabilizer bar bracket. I have since replaced that eccentric with Mark's plate:
Got a local speedshop doing my install and alignment. I have a set of the Granatelli toe links, with the plates from AMT, and the AMT camber kit which they will be installing at the same time.
They did the alignment on my Z51 before. I brought them in my caster tool(which I got from you!). I'll look into the torques required tonight and have them listed for them.
... I brought them in my caster tool(which I got from you!)...
Oh yeah - I hope it's working good for you!!
Below are pictures of the front and rear torque specs in my 2016 Service Manual.
However, the installation sheet I have from AMT says the nuts for the bolts through the LCA bushings and camber plates are only 80 lb-ft. I think the 125 lb-ft for the eccentric cams is to try to get them tight enough so they won't slip, but with the plates you just don't need that much.
Those specs on the rear suspension page for the "Adjust Link Nuts" are for the factory toe link. The inner one has the factory eccentric cam, but if you're installing the Granatelli links their installation instructions might have a spec - I can't remember - and with the AMT plate there won't be any slipping.
The factory bolts that hold the UCA's and dogbones to the frame are 48 lb-ft, but with the shims, AMT instructions may have a spec for their nuts.
Below are pictures of the front and rear torque specs in my 2016 Service Manual.
However, the installation sheet I have from AMT says the nuts for the bolts through the LCA bushings and camber plates are only 80 lb-ft. I think the 125 lb-ft for the eccentric cams is to try to get them tight enough so they won't slip, but with the plates you just don't need that much.
Those specs on the rear suspension page for the "Adjust Link Nuts" are for the factory toe link. The inner one has the factory eccentric cam, but if you're installing the Granatelli links their installation instructions might have a spec - I can't remember - and with the AMT plate there won't be any slipping.
The factory bolts that hold the UCA's and dogbones to the frame are 48 lb-ft, but with the shims, AMT instructions may have a spec for their nuts.
Good luck with the alignment!!
I hope Mark chimes in on the LCA torque. The instructions I had said that the bolts that went through the LCA with the AMT camber plates were to be torqued to 130 lb/ft.
As you said the others were:
UCA bolts - 48 lb/ft.
Granatelli toe links:
- 55 lb/ft at the bolt that replaces the eccentric.
- 45 lb/ft at the other end where the tapered bolt is.
I'm going to start up another thread with my experience doing the alignment myself.
Our instructions say 130 ft lbs on the LCA bolts. We only spec that much because that's what a non-lubed Grade 10 M14 bolt is designed to be torqued to. We used to say 85 ft lbs on those, but I had too many mechanical engineers reprimand be for recommending too low a spec! But since we're not using friction to keep the eccentrics from slipping any more 130 ft lbs sounds like alot, but again it's the recommended torque for that bolt.
This is the bolt that goes in place of the rear toe link eccentric, correct? I thought you said 55 lb/ft?
BTW, thanks for the awesome customer service and responding so quick to my mails last Friday night!
I did say that, and I apologize. I half forgot it was an M12 bolt and not an M10. But as above I said above with the LCA at 85 lbs vs 130 lbs, nothing is going to slip at whether you torque that M12 bolt to 55lbs or 90 ft lbs. But technically, it's an M12, non lubricated, Grade 10 bolt, and the fastener spec for that is 93 ft lbs. If it was on my car, I'd be torquing it to 55 ft lbs
I hope Mark chimes in on the LCA torque. The instructions I had said that the bolts that went through the LCA with the AMT camber plates were to be torqued to 130 lb/ft.
As you said the others were:
UCA bolts - 48 lb/ft.
Granatelli toe links:
- 55 lb/ft at the bolt that replaces the eccentric.
- 45 lb/ft at the other end where the tapered bolt is.
I'm going to start up another thread with my experience doing the alignment myself.
07-25-2017, 11:55 AM
I guess I have your old original installation sheet.