berniefranko

can you take it off and get it checked?

eboggs_jkvl

How's the 350A fuse on the battery? You can move the positive lead over and bypass the fuse to check it.


Elmer

c54u

There probably is a way to check it if it is removed, but your best bet is to get the car to a dealer for them to diagnose the problem and fix it.

berniefranko

is this on the battery or under the matt in the back

berniefranko

is that on the battery or under the matt in the back

berniefranko

and i have power to everthing

NSC5

If it is telling you to depress clutch to start then the BCM isn't sensing the closure of the clutch safety switch. Could be a loose connector or if the car was stored over winter rodent damage is also a possibility. Time to have the dealer send a flatbed for it.

berniefranko

yes might be sounds like it but you said BCM where is that located

berniefranko

plus would every single thing works besides the starting so would it still be the BCM

eboggs_jkvl

ON the battery in the rear of the car. It stops the high amps to the starter but has other 12v requirements still functioning.

Elmer

TEXHAWK0

That is the fuse he said he had already checked back in my post#11.

Don't even have to remove the main cable. Just check with voltmeter from +battery terminal to the main cable to the car.

Boiler_81

I would suspect a wiring issue. The car is not seeing the closure of the clutch switch. If it is not a wiring issue it will be an electronic module issue. Either way, at this point I would have the car at the dealer and let them figure it out.

berniefranko

well at it again and still nothing 99.9 percent of the car works but it just wont turn over i dont get it
took fenders off and looked at both modules can you get them looked at?

berniefranko

yes fluke all of them and every fuse in the car

intake68

Make sure you check your grounds. There is a grouping of them on the front left frame rail in the engine bay. Then follow them to make sure other ends are secure as well. I had a simular issue, car had power, would go to start and it would say immobilizer not recognized even though the keyfob would unlock the car etc. Once I plugged in with the GM gds2 software you could see the voltages coming in. It was a bad ground on the left side of engine block. Ten seconds later after tightening up all was right in the world.

VictorBarron

I will say you are a very determined fellow in your pursuit. I would be calling the dealer for a flatbed as was discussed earlier.

fnbrowning

As Victor Barron said, it is long past time to call a dealer. Your warranty covers towing and repairs.

Or, is there something you haven't told us, berniefranko?? Did you do a warranty-canceling engine mod and you can't get free dealer support?

Tell us everything, start at the beginning.

berniefranko

yes thats what i will do today is clean the grounds ,thanks

berniefranko

yes it is out of warranty
all i can say is everything works but 2 things
wont crank over
and trunk release wont work with remote and also with inside button have to use the key to open it but it will close automactically

c54u

You may want to check your dash ignition switch with a multi-meter to see if there is connection when you press the button to try to start the car. I am not sure how to remove the switch.

You may want to check to see if you have 12 volts at the starter with a multi-meter.

You may have a bad starter or bad starter solenoid and may have to remove the starter it to test it on the bench. Not sure how hard it is to remove starter to test it.