FYREANT

NOTE: This How-To guide is neither endorsed by or property of Corvette Forum or myself in any way/shape/form. All liability stemming from any actions taken in relation to this guide is solely placed upon the end user. (This means you!)

Today I am going to show you how to install the EdgyVette E85 stealth flex fuel kit in your C7. This kit was designed for people that do not like the E85 sensor to be hanging out in the engine bay for everyone to see, and making it hard to make your engine bay nice and bling like mine. Ok so let’s get to it! I've broken the install into three sections.

Section 1:

ECU Pin Install:

The location of the ECU is in the front passenger fender, and can be accessed without removing the fender from the car, however you must be VERY careful to not over flex the fender and crack the fiberglass.

1. Remove the passenger wheel

2. Remove the mud flap by taking out the 7MM bolt on the bottom and them popping off the clips holding it on. This reveals three Torx bolts holding the wheel well liner on.

3. Remove the three Torx bolts, as well as the plastic “push” clips that are holding the liner.



4. Remove the 7MM bolts on the bottom of the wheel well liner / bottom of fender area. There are also two 10MM bolts to remove here as well. Once these are removed, pull the fender out of the way, and tuck it behind the brake caliper for now.

5. Remove the three Torx bolts holding the top of the fender as shown below:



6. As well as the hidden fourth bolt which is under the windshield cowl:



7. The last bolt to remove has to be accessed from the inside of the car. Inside the passenger door jamb, remove this bolt:



8. Remove the 7MM bolts, and the Torx bolts on the bottom of the passenger fender, as well as the three Torx-bolts located under the hood that connect the fender and liner to the car. Additionally, there is one bolt within the doorjamb to be removed.

9. Once all is lose, you will need to pull the fender out (just a little), to expose the ECU. If you look past the ECU, you will see one more bolt that you can access with a long ratchet extension.



10. Next you will want to remove the ECU from the mount and let it hang down (press 2 x clips to remove)

11. Once it is hanging, remove the X1 wiring harness (this harness is the one closest to the passenger side wheel well, meaning closest to you!). When removed you will know it is correct by seeing a blue plastic clip board (see picture below for example).

12. Slip the wire harness (X1) out where the door meets the fender.



13. Carefully remove the plastic top cover holding the wires together. Cut the zip tie, and the housing will unsnap. You will also need to remove the blue connector face, this just pops out with a screwdriver.

14. The flex fuel pin will go in Pin 38. This space is currently not occupied by any other wire.



15. Once you have located the hole, it will need to be punch out as a plastic piece is taking its place.



16. Now feed the pigtail wire from the Flex fuel sensor in through the inner fender, and bring it out so we can put it into the harness.

17. From the back of the wire board insert the pigtail into its new location, push it allllll the way in until it is even with the rest of the connectors.



18. When installed, you will need to snap on the blue plastic clip board face back onto the wiring harness. If done correctly, the new wire you have installed will not come lose when you try to pull it out from the back of the harness.

19. Re-install the top of the wire harness plastic cover, and zip-tie the area from earlier, and replace any electric tape you removed. Now is also a good time to add fresh electric tape to cover up the new wire as well to protect it.

FYREANT

Section 2:

Sensor Installation and wire routing to NPP module or AFM module:

1. Locate the OEM fuel line coming out of the driver side frame rail (above the over axle exhaust pipe.

2. Use fuel disconnect tool to unhook the OEM fuel line.

3. Connect the new E85 sensor assembly so that it is oriented as shown in the picture below:



4. Install the kit with the Racetronix fuel hard line connecter toward the front of the car. Tuck the kit behind factory harnesses (zip tie if you wish). The below pictures shows how the sensor hardware tucks behind the existing harness (yellow arrow), as well as how the wire that plugs into it runs towards the front of the car.



5. Start routing the wiring that plugs into the NPP valves (or AFM valves) towards the back of the car using the path shown in the next several photos.



6. This photo shows the rear portion of the sensor itself, along with the black wire insulator heading towards the back of the car.

7. In the next photo, the left side of the photo is where the insulated wire is coming from, and you will need to feed it along the heat shielded wire that is already there; zip tying it along the way.



8. Again coming from the left and heading towards the back of the car (heading to the right) in the below picture, you can see where I routed the insulated wire zip typing along my path. I chose to plug in to the AFM valve module, simply because my car did not come equipped with NPP valves. You can also see that I tied up the excess wire after getting it connected to the module, and getting the wire harnesses plugged together.



9. Here is another picture (below) taken from directly under the car showing where my tied up wiring is, and how it routes to my AFM module.

FYREANT

Section 3:

Sensor wire routing from rear to front of car for ECU feed:

1. Now we need to route the signal wire from the rear to the front of the car. Follow this path for this:
If you remember this picture from earlier, we are referring to the wire indicated by green:



2. In the next series of photos, I will show you the path that I took to route the wire, zip typing it along the way. The red arrows indicate the direction I am running the wire, leading towards the front of the car.









3. Here you will need to remove these two snap clips, and fold down the area’s that are used to secure the heat shield. We will feed the signal wire up along the side of the heat shield. You can use a small flat head screwdriver to push the wire up if necessary so long as you are gentle!



4. You also need to remove this snap clip farther towards the front, and fold its arm down as well.



5. Again, remember we are routing the wire above this heat shield. Here is the path it will follow:



6. When we get closer to the engine bay, we will need to run the cable over to the passenger side of the car. To do this, follow the below path, so the wire comes out by the wiring harness in the upper right of the picture.



7. Here you can see the wire coming over from the driver’s side to the passenger side of the car, under the torque tube, above the heat shield. There is a solid metal heat shield to the lower left in the picture, route the wire behind it.



8. From there, you can route the wire up, and over the frame rail, and into the passenger fender area:



9. In the below pic, the wire is coming in from the right of the image, and I have the excess wire tied up. You can now connect the signal wire to the wire that you pinned into the ECU that is waiting for connection.



10. Lower your car from stands or lift until the tires are on the ground. Start the car and observe the kit for any leaks. If leaks are present, shut down the vehicle immediately and call EdgyVette.

That’s it! Obviously you will need to be professionally tuned to use this sensor, so please do NOT put any E85 in your car until AFTER you are tuned to do so!

Stay tuned for more How To guides from yours truly!

Ant

0Cajun @ Edgyvette

Hey brother I really appreciate the purchase and the EXCELLENT update to our installation instructions. You have helped us and other members immeasurably. Please keep us in mind for future need.

Cajun

robert miller

Two great guys here more than willing to help anyone to work on these cars.

Cajun, having all the z06 parts painted now plus will have the car back from the tuners going after it this coming wed. Then I think just going to pull the car apart & do the z51 to the z06 look. Thanks for all the parts on this job. Robert