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Possible bent rod or compressed bearing

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Old 07-13-2017, 06:56 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by tjg9493
I would but my plan was to do a TSP darton sleeved 416 short block some time next year. I know its alot of trouble to get in there to change out the stuff for one cylinder but the car is already on the lift in my garage with the bad head off. Id just like to get my self through to next year on a stock block and wait untill i can afford to shell out the money for a new block.
also any issues with running new rings in a factory hone with 30k miles?
Cylinders with 30K will be glazed over. If you replace the piston rings and do not break the glaze on the cylinder wall the rings won't seat very well. It will still "work", but I wouldn't do it.
Old 07-14-2017, 10:05 AM
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i had a set of ported heads that leaked coolant into cylinder on a ls1. bent the rod when i tried to start it. changed the rod and motor is still running strong after 11 years.
Old 07-14-2017, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by RFZ
i had a set of ported heads that leaked coolant into cylinder on a ls1. bent the rod when i tried to start it. changed the rod and motor is still running strong after 11 years.
did you hone and re-ring at the same time and if you did was it just that cylinder or all of them?
Old 07-14-2017, 12:25 PM
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Have you found out if the rod was bent yet?
Old 07-14-2017, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin Parent
Have you found out if the rod was bent yet?
unfortunately I've been really busy this week so no, but im going to dial indicator them today and even if its not bent, ill probably swap out that cylinders parts anyhow. Id rather just do it now and not when i spin a rod or crack a piston in a week.

when i tried to start the car it stoped and i could hear pretty loudly air/water leaking out (ppppsssssssss) asuming i blew the head gasket with arp studs that would take an immense amount of pressure that the rod and bearing and piston all had to deal with as well so weather or not that cylinder rod/piston/ bearing is damaged i feel that its better to just swap it out for peace of mind
Old 07-14-2017, 12:49 PM
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Agreed. Good decision.
Old 07-14-2017, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin Parent
Agreed. Good decision.
The question now if what grit hone do u buy 180 seems super aggressive as i dont want to take off to much material #400 maybe?
Old 07-14-2017, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by tjg9493
The question now if what grit hone do u buy 180 seems super aggressive as i dont want to take off to much material #400 maybe?
Give ANT a message on it, as long as it has a small amount of pattern on the wall should do the job.
Old 07-14-2017, 03:58 PM
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320 grit. Need to get specific type of material for it too. Look at my "how to" thread on cylinder honing in the C7 tech section.
Old 07-14-2017, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by FYREANT
320 grit. Need to get specific type of material for it too. Look at my "how to" thread on cylinder honing in the C7 tech section.
Awsome thanks
Old 07-14-2017, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by tjg9493
Awsome thanks
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...lt1-block.html

Theres a link to the exact brush hone you need in the thread. You can order the part number through Summit.
Old 07-17-2017, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by tjg9493
did you hone and re-ring at the same time and if you did was it just that cylinder or all of them?
just repaired the one cylinder, ball honed the cylinder, used original piston/rings, no issues
Old 07-17-2017, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by RFZ
just repaired the one cylinder, ball honed the cylinder, used original piston/rings, no issues
how did you ball hone without getting grit in the engine? This is what i would like to do just wasnt sure if i could do it without getting grit in the crank bearings and such
Old 07-17-2017, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by tjg9493
how did you ball hone without getting grit in the engine? This is what i would like to do just wasnt sure if i could do it without getting grit in the crank bearings and such
I sure wouldn't take that risk personally..
Old 07-17-2017, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by FYREANT
I sure wouldn't take that risk personally..
pretty easy, some rags around crank , rags bottom crankcase making sure they do not get caught by hone, light hone without going crazy with honing oil, good cleanup and ready to assemble. i did not have any cylinder damage just bent rod.
Old 07-17-2017, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by RFZ
pretty easy, some rags around crank , rags bottom crankcase making sure they do not get caught by hone, light hone without going crazy with honing oil, good cleanup and ready to assemble. i did not have any cylinder damage just bent rod.
At what mileage did you do the first oil change afterwards? I would hope no more than 100 miles or so as theres no way to "really" get all the fine particles out. That's why they recommend nylon brush honing after ball honing to clean the particles out..



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