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HOW TO: Replacing LT1 Pistons / Installing Vengeance Racing Drop-In LT1 Pistons

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HOW TO: Replacing LT1 Pistons / Installing Vengeance Racing Drop-In LT1 Pistons

Old 11-14-2017, 07:26 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 16Stingray View Post
what was the purpose of swapping out the pistons? Was this to allow a SC to be added? Was there some other type of gain other than they look nice when putting them in?
The stock pistons on the LT1 are not forged. They are hypereutectic. Hypereutectic pistons are nowhere near as strong as forged pistons are. The stock LT1 pistons give out at around 700 to 750 HP. I was already at 650 HP, and was planning to add 200+ more horsepower. Therefore, it was required for me to replace the pistons with stronger ones. The drop in forged pistons are good for 1000+ HP. That is why I did them..
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Old 11-14-2017, 09:50 PM
  #22  
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Since you upgraded the mains to ARP studs and the rods to ARP bolts, why not hone them since the clamping force will be changed?

I like to using 2 feeler gauges between rod pairs when torquing to prevent rod big end rock.

JMHO
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Old 11-14-2017, 09:58 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Mike Jesse View Post
Since you upgraded the mains to ARP studs and the rods to ARP bolts, why not hone them since the clamping force will be changed?

I like to using 2 feeler gauges between rod pairs when torquing to prevent rod big end rock.

JMHO
line honing is best practice for sure. I chose to forego it.
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Old 11-14-2017, 11:25 PM
  #24  
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Its guys like FYREANT and threads like this that make coming to this forum worthwhile after all of the dumb **** I see posted around here.
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Old 11-15-2017, 08:24 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by FYREANT View Post
The stock pistons on the LT1 are not forged. They are hypereutectic. Hypereutectic pistons are nowhere near as strong as forged pistons are. The stock LT1 pistons give out at around 700 to 750 HP. I was already at 650 HP, and was planning to add 200+ more horsepower. Therefore, it was required for me to replace the pistons with stronger ones. The drop in forged pistons are good for 1000+ HP. That is why I did them..








ah ok, so you didn't gain anything from the pistons themselves but swapping them allows you increase HP from other upgrades.
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Old 11-15-2017, 08:52 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 16Stingray View Post
ah ok, so you didn't gain anything from the pistons themselves but swapping them allows you increase HP from other upgrades.
Exactly
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Old 11-15-2017, 11:26 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by FYREANT View Post
Which ones? Got a pic?
I don't have a pic... but if you look at pic you posted in post #8... top left corner where your head bolts up to.. you have M8 tapped and drilled holes.. i don't have those on my LT1.. if you look at the video and screen shot of VR install, they don't have them neither.
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Old 11-15-2017, 11:27 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by FYREANT View Post
The stock pistons on the LT1 are not forged. They are hypereutectic. Hypereutectic pistons are nowhere near as strong as forged pistons are. The stock LT1 pistons give out at around 700 to 750 HP. I was already at 650 HP, and was planning to add 200+ more horsepower. Therefore, it was required for me to replace the pistons with stronger ones. The drop in forged pistons are good for 1000+ HP. That is why I did them..
If you don't change them and you push your car into 9s.. you end up with this... ask me how i know LOL

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Old 11-15-2017, 01:09 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Osman View Post
I don't have a pic... but if you look at pic you posted in post #8... top left corner where your head bolts up to.. you have M8 tapped and drilled holes.. i don't have those on my LT1.. if you look at the video and screen shot of VR install, they don't have them neither.
Ahhh ok. I don't know that those holes are used for anything anyway. Good eye seeing that though lol

Originally Posted by Osman View Post
If you don't change them and you push your car into 9s.. you end up with this... ask me how i know LOL
Exactly. And this is what ringland failure looks like! lol

I am heavily contemplating if I should pull mine to fix the dots or not. On the fence between pull it and make it right, or leave it and assume it will be fine..
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Old 11-20-2017, 10:22 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by FYREANT View Post
Ahhh ok. I don't know that those holes are used for anything anyway. Good eye seeing that though lol



Exactly. And this is what ringland failure looks like! lol

I am heavily contemplating if I should pull mine to fix the dots or not. On the fence between pull it and make it right, or leave it and assume it will be fine..
That would be a hard decision, i think i would just leave it and assume its fine..

BTW how many miles do you have on car since rebuild ???
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Old 11-20-2017, 11:39 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Osman View Post
That would be a hard decision, i think i would just leave it and assume its fine..

BTW how many miles do you have on car since rebuild ???
About 2100 miles now. Many many hard pulls, with a good handful all the way up to 7300 rpm. (I've since dropped the redline down to 6700 since I was overspinning the blower toooo much).
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Old 11-22-2017, 12:11 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by FYREANT View Post
About 2100 miles now. Many many hard pulls, with a good handful all the way up to 7300 rpm. (I've since dropped the redline down to 6700 since I was overspinning the blower toooo much).
7300.. damn.. never been that high

Question, what break in procedure did you use to get rings seated ???
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Old 11-22-2017, 03:12 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Osman View Post
7300.. damn.. never been that high

Question, what break in procedure did you use to get rings seated ???
drove the car VERY nice (no higher than 2500 RPM's) for 600 miles. I then drove about 100 miles to get to the tuner where she was opened open full steam.
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Old 12-06-2018, 07:44 PM
  #34  
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Updated the images in post 2 with pics of proper piston orientation.

Ant
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