2017 Grand Sport: Need Ways to Add 50-75HP?
#21
Le Mans Master
I'm doing:
Borla x
ported TB
ported stock mani
Halltech CAI
flex/tune
I'm hoping for about 65 hp and better acceleration.
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#22
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by robz
I'm in the exact same boat you are and couldn't agree more.
I'm doing:
Borla x
ported TB
ported stock mani
Halltech CAI
flex/tune
I'm hoping for about 65 hp and better acceleration.
I'm doing:
Borla x
ported TB
ported stock mani
Halltech CAI
flex/tune
I'm hoping for about 65 hp and better acceleration.
#23
Le Mans Master
Borla ~6hp
TB ~8hp
Ported Intake ~13hp
Halltech ~12hp
E85/tune ~25hp
It never works out when you add that way but that's my story.
Last edited by robz; 08-09-2017 at 04:17 PM.
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The Teknician (04-06-2020)
#24
Melting Slicks
Long tubes are the key to go if you want see meaningful gains. My build was LG Super Pro Stepped headers, ported intake and TB from Weapon X, AFE CAI, 170 degree t-stat... Installed and tuned by Doug Rippie. Car rips pretty good and sounds mean. Throw E85 on top and you should be happy!!!
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The Teknician (08-19-2017)
#25
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
I would start with what your goals are with the car. Think about how long you plan to keep the car and what do you see in 3-6 months or even a year down the road. I've wasted so much money in 20 years pulling stuff off to replace with another piece. Meaning, don't buy a intake manifold if you plan to throw a twin screw SC on in a few months. Don't buy Long Tubes if you plan on a turbo down the road. I know you said 50-75HP but that's the usual starting point. Nobody buys a C7 and wants to mod right from the start and never plan to do anything after that, lol. I remember when I was 21 I bought a 03 Mustang GT new. I told myself I would do a couple mods, tune, exhaust and be done with it. I ended up spending $25K for the next 5 or so years.
I've found that the fun mods make cars more enjoyable. Exhaust, shifter, tint, and some appearance mods. You know the mods you can see and feel daily. I'm a 80s baby and we went different routes first when we planned to race. I started with suspension/ tires/ proper rear end upgrades before adding anything to Torque/HP. Adjusting a factory alignment to your needs helps a car out alot. Whether it's caster to benefit in corner carving, track or changing camber. A freeway/drag type of alignment vs a factory do it all alignment. Can't have a perfect everything alignment. It's impossible. If you are in a environment where it gets cold in the winter get a set of Michelin A/S 3s. I drive my cars year round and make sure they are safe to do so. I don't get much snow but it will get into the 20s sometimes teens.
Other than what I said and everybody above. Think for a few weeks about what you really plan.
I've found that the fun mods make cars more enjoyable. Exhaust, shifter, tint, and some appearance mods. You know the mods you can see and feel daily. I'm a 80s baby and we went different routes first when we planned to race. I started with suspension/ tires/ proper rear end upgrades before adding anything to Torque/HP. Adjusting a factory alignment to your needs helps a car out alot. Whether it's caster to benefit in corner carving, track or changing camber. A freeway/drag type of alignment vs a factory do it all alignment. Can't have a perfect everything alignment. It's impossible. If you are in a environment where it gets cold in the winter get a set of Michelin A/S 3s. I drive my cars year round and make sure they are safe to do so. I don't get much snow but it will get into the 20s sometimes teens.
Other than what I said and everybody above. Think for a few weeks about what you really plan.
#26
Pro
Borla - mufflers? maybe 2 to 4 (saw dyno and arguments of 2 to 10. Don't believe the argument for 10, saw a dyno of I think 4 or 5??). X-pipe less than 1 (saw a dyno here showing .8 hp).
TB - seen that all over the place from 2 to much higher...
Ported intake - hard to tell. Seen dyno with Holley provide a stronger number.
Halltech - seen arguments for more. I have a AFe and got some HP over stock; I think 10.
Tune - always good.
I'd look at some headers (mid-length) for 20+ or long tube if youre good with always running a tune.
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The Teknician (08-19-2017)
#27
Melting Slicks
Vararam old air intake ported t/body ported stock intake and sense the intake manifold was out I matched ported the intake ports on the heads filled tank with E85 and had it tuned.
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The Teknician (08-19-2017)
#28
Le Mans Master
The actual cumulative total is always less than the sum of the parts. In other words, it won't add up like that. "Ricer Math" is when you take the optimal, sometimes unrealistic, best add from each change and come up with a total number equal to or even GREATER then the sum of the parts. Unfortunately, it never works out that way.
Borla - mufflers? maybe 2 to 4 (saw dyno and arguments of 2 to 10. Don't believe the argument for 10, saw a dyno of I think 4 or 5??). X-pipe less than 1 (saw a dyno here showing .8 hp).
TB - seen that all over the place from 2 to much higher...
Ported intake - hard to tell. Seen dyno with Holley provide a stronger number.
Halltech - seen arguments for more. I have a AFe and got some HP over stock; I think 10.
Tune - always good.
I'd look at some headers (mid-length) for 20+ or long tube if youre good with always running a tune.
Borla - mufflers? maybe 2 to 4 (saw dyno and arguments of 2 to 10. Don't believe the argument for 10, saw a dyno of I think 4 or 5??). X-pipe less than 1 (saw a dyno here showing .8 hp).
TB - seen that all over the place from 2 to much higher...
Ported intake - hard to tell. Seen dyno with Holley provide a stronger number.
Halltech - seen arguments for more. I have a AFe and got some HP over stock; I think 10.
Tune - always good.
I'd look at some headers (mid-length) for 20+ or long tube if youre good with always running a tune.
Im betting theres alot in the tune esp with e85 with some experimentation with DI.
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The Teknician (08-19-2017)
#29
Drifting
That's what I have plus ported exhaust manifolds. Not sure what my overall HP improvement is but a WAG would be not more than 40hp total, the bulk of that being the E85/tune. I have been 121mph in the 1/4 minus the Halltech, compared to 116mph stock.
Last edited by bigsapper; 08-12-2017 at 12:04 PM.
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The Teknician (08-19-2017)
#30
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
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One thing you need to be careful about is the end result of your modifications. You can add more peak HP but slow your car down by losing average power under the curve. Mods that add HP tend to do that by shifting the HP/Torque curve higher in the rpm range. If by doing that you reduce low end torque (1000 to 3000 rpm) that will impact you right where you drive the car all the time. How many times are you going to spinning the motor to 6500 rpm with the resulting speeds to get the feel you are looking for?
Another thing to consider is everybody has a built in self limiter in their brain and if they haven't learned how to drive their stock configuration car to the limit they may never drive a modded car past the limit they have already set for themselves. I see this all the time where I sit in cars with Novice Students who are afraid to drive at speed on the track.
I have seen them struggle to push the throttle past a certain point and once they get the feel for the track it takes a lot of coaching to get them to push the pedal down far enough and long enough. I have told people I will tell them when to apply throttle by saying Gas, Gas and when to apply brake by saying brake, brake. Some have complained they didn't remember me saying brake. All they heard was gas, gas, gas, gas, gas. I did tell them to brake but the problem was they were so ingrained into their sense of when to let off the throttle approaching a turn they would start lifting at 600 ft to a turn and I knew they could go to the 300 ft marker at a much higher speed before hitting the brake.
I firmly believe dumping power mods into a new car is a waste of money until the driver is able to use the stock car to its max which is extremely rare to be able to do on the street. No room, too much traffic both pedestrian and vehicular. You want to be like the student I had who had an MR2. As we were crawling up the Esses at the Glen I kept saying more throttle and he said to me that is all there is. It is on the floor, has been there for the last 1500 ft and I only have 134 HP. That is when it is time to add HP.
Bill
Another thing to consider is everybody has a built in self limiter in their brain and if they haven't learned how to drive their stock configuration car to the limit they may never drive a modded car past the limit they have already set for themselves. I see this all the time where I sit in cars with Novice Students who are afraid to drive at speed on the track.
I have seen them struggle to push the throttle past a certain point and once they get the feel for the track it takes a lot of coaching to get them to push the pedal down far enough and long enough. I have told people I will tell them when to apply throttle by saying Gas, Gas and when to apply brake by saying brake, brake. Some have complained they didn't remember me saying brake. All they heard was gas, gas, gas, gas, gas. I did tell them to brake but the problem was they were so ingrained into their sense of when to let off the throttle approaching a turn they would start lifting at 600 ft to a turn and I knew they could go to the 300 ft marker at a much higher speed before hitting the brake.
I firmly believe dumping power mods into a new car is a waste of money until the driver is able to use the stock car to its max which is extremely rare to be able to do on the street. No room, too much traffic both pedestrian and vehicular. You want to be like the student I had who had an MR2. As we were crawling up the Esses at the Glen I kept saying more throttle and he said to me that is all there is. It is on the floor, has been there for the last 1500 ft and I only have 134 HP. That is when it is time to add HP.
Bill
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#31
Le Mans Master
Isn't installing a cam a real PITA with the dry sump?
#32
Burning Brakes
Just an "out of the box" suggestion.
Edit: Just found the following thread you may find interesting...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-10-gears.html
Last edited by DrDyno; 08-14-2017 at 01:13 AM.
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The Teknician (08-19-2017)
#33
Safety Car
Although too late for the OP, I would encourage any new buyer of the GS wanting more power to simply pay a bit more and get the Z06. The GS is a Z06 with less power. Hence if you want a GS with more power = Z06. And the upcharge is slight and you get to keep your warranty.
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The Teknician (08-19-2017)
#34
Le Mans Master
I didnt baseline and not sure what a bone stock GS dynos at but this car should put down ~485whp on a dynojet for anyone interested in approximate gains.
Assuming the car shoul run low 11's in good air at that level.
Last edited by robz; 09-06-2017 at 12:22 PM.
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The Teknician (04-06-2020)
#35
ARH long tubes
MSD Intake Manifold
Air Raid Filter
Throttle body
HP Dyno Tune
New Plugs, and Wires.
Goes into the shop in 2 weeks, cant wait to feel the results!
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#36
Burning Brakes
I guess I am a little slow, but you buy a GS like you want, then you spend the money to get X more horsepower. It looks like to me, that by the time you by the GS,spend the money in mods, you have spent Z06 money. So in the end, looks like the Z would have been a better purchase because you have spent the same money & have way more horsepower. My 2 cents of opinion.
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The Teknician (04-06-2020)
#37
Le Mans Master
I guess I am a little slow, but you buy a GS like you want, then you spend the money to get X more horsepower. It looks like to me, that by the time you by the GS,spend the money in mods, you have spent Z06 money. So in the end, looks like the Z would have been a better purchase because you have spent the same money & have way more horsepower. My 2 cents of opinion.
Some people like to tinker with their cars and enjoy the process of increasing performance under their own power.
Some people do all the work themnselves which keeps cost low and increases satisfaction.
Some people like to add their own SC and design their own builds.
Some people cant afford the Z06 up front.
Some people cant handle the power of the Z06 and are better off without it.
Some people feel its impractical to have all that power on the street and see no place to run the car to its potential.
...all types of people.
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The Teknician (04-06-2020)
#39
Instructor
A good tune alone can get you 30-50hp at the crank and any tuner would tell you to upgrade the air intake for a few bucks. Headers are not crazy expensing and allow more power and a sound you'll love every time you're in the car. If you're not tracking the sound is a total new car you'll love and get a little power while you're at it.
Air intake, Headers, and a good tuner is the best upgrade for the buck and risk to any warranty issues. Once you get miles on it (> 5-10k) then go ahead and upgrade CAM, and do what many of us have done with a little confidence there are no gremlins on the car.
Total guess here the Air intake, headers, and tune will get you well over the 50-75HP you're looking for, and nothing to replace when you want even more out of it!
Have fun with it!
Fred
Last edited by ferraf; 09-10-2017 at 01:06 PM.
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#40
Instructor
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