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Hey Everyone,
Thinking of a catch can for the incoming Z06. I have been doing a lot of research and the Mighty Mouse seems like a good design. My question is does anyone know the difference in routing for the Mild vs Wild. There have been members that have installed both ways.
The Mild uses that diverter under the supercharger and is fed to the can, the output is teed into the throttle body hoses so thats where the can gets its vacuum source from.
The Wild hooks and evacuates from the drivers valve cover and then the clean output of the can goes and it teed into the throttle body. Does the Wild still use the diverter under the supercharger?
MMS is the only way to go on a catch can man. David is one of the best guys in here to help a person out plus he runs what he makes. Also he has one hell of a TT vette that is one nice ride.. I run his can on my A/A TI small pulley & all forged motor set up.. Robert
MMS is the only way to go on a catch can man. David is one of the best guys in here to help a person out plus he runs what he makes. Also he has one hell of a TT vette that is one nice ride.. I run his can on my A/A TI small pulley & all forged motor set up.. Robert
I keep hearing this but when I messaged him for help with a can for my SC build he only replied once. Then nothing after that initial reply. Maybe I'll try again.
it catches the blow by. Every engine has blow by and blow by containes, oil, water, acid, etc. There is no way to get rid of this stuff except to route it back into the engine to be burnt. SO this mist travels through the intake and hits the hot intake valve on the way to the cylinder. It burns onto the valve and builds up over time. These new direct inject engines inject fuel right into the cylinder so there is no way to wash the valves. The older port injected engines injected the fuel in the intake runner as a mist so it hit the back side of the intake valve on the way to the cylinder and washed, or helped dissolve the crap that baked onto the valve. Our new engines don't do this so how to you clean that part of the valve? Best way prevention so you don't ever have to.
Go with the MILD. I have 1000 horse but road race and the MILD took a leaking main crankcase seal (blew at track) and completely stopped the leaking which is amazing. Not one drop of oil loss since I installed. I have a more advanced setup now b/c I track hard and needed more capacity for oil mostly so I use his MMS MILD in road race config (essentially instead of filter on top I use a banjo fitting that routes overflow to my AMP breather tank (open style). The Billet PCV diverter is nice. And the MMS one is a true PCV style catch can it is open at throttle and closed at idle / cruise keeping fumes out the interior. I like the AMP open tank b/c it mounts in stock airbox location and the filter is up in the fender routing fumes away (it's open style so smells big time). The AMP tank takes my driver side valve cover line and vents it, but the two rear oil/sidekick tank lines run to my passenger valve cover. That's important b/c it allows not only OIL to transfer between the engine tanks and also important AIR is also balanced between the engine and tanks as oil is pulled/pushed. The front oil tank vent line is routed to the AMP vent port. And the overflow on MMS routes to the second AMP breather port. I use ONE drain line (Fragola lines/fittings with quick valve) that drains for both. Works great been tracking it for months now like this making pretty solid HP numbers ProCharged.
David @ MMS is awesome. He knows his **** and helped me for weeks to get this dialed in. I didn't quite understand it that well at first, but boy I do now, thanks to David. He took so much time detailing it all in emails for me months after I purchased his catch can so he truly supports his customers after, not just to get a sale. Good guy for sure.
it catches the blow by. Every engine has blow by and blow by containes, oil, water, acid, etc. There is no way to get rid of this stuff except to route it back into the engine to be burnt. SO this mist travels through the intake and hits the hot intake valve on the way to the cylinder. It burns onto the valve and builds up over time. These new direct inject engines inject fuel right into the cylinder so there is no way to wash the valves. The older port injected engines injected the fuel in the intake runner as a mist so it hit the back side of the intake valve on the way to the cylinder and washed, or helped dissolve the crap that baked onto the valve. Our new engines don't do this so how to you clean that part of the valve? Best way prevention so you don't ever have to.
Well one way is adding a CRFueler Holley Port Injection setup with 8 port injectors :-). I am being silly b/c I run that now and know it's not feasible for anyone with stock PD blowers, etc. So yeah trying to prevent all that oil coked on is good. I saw a good bit of carbon on the back of my valves pre-port injection and I have a '17 I was amazed how much was there with a car that was a year old at the time.
Get the mild unless you are making crazy insane amounts of power. The MM cans are the best. I swapped my intake manifold at the same time I put the catch can in last year and the stock one had oil all in it. This year I swapped out the ported one I had put in with the can, and it was bone dry. These cans work.
I don't recommend venting to atmosphere unless you are road racing, I think we have an obligation to keep emissions low (while preserving horsepower). The catch can does have a vent on top, but it's an emergency vent so the pressure goes out the can and not blowing through seals in the motor.
I upgraded to a supercharger and make about 660 horsepower and David still recommended the mild.
05-06-2019, 08:57 PM
Mighty Mouse Catch Can
