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The dealer did not replace my bolts when replacing my rotors under warranty. In all the brake jobs I've done on previous cars with similar Brembo calipers I've never once replaced them either. I'll always just put a little high-temp copper anti-seize compound on the bolts them torque to spec (space permitting).
Yeah. I definitely wouldn't go buy what a dealership did. haha. If not replacing them, just check them (remove, inspect, clean, anti seize and install).
Edit: I thought you meant the pad (guide) pins. Why would you need to replace the bolts? OBVIOUSLY you don't want anti seize on the caliper bolts
Last edited by LoganExplosion; 11-20-2017 at 02:12 PM.
If there was a safety risk to it GM would require it be done during a warranty job (for which the dealership would get paid). Dealers make money off warranty jobs, and in my experience, are eager to do so. My service advisor has always gone above & beyond for me.
I have always re-used mine on other cars, these bolts will have thread lock all over them, I personally do not see the need unless there is damage to the bolt.
If they are not "Torque to yield" bolts, they can be reused with the appropriate thread locker. An inspection of the bolts looking for any cracks or damage should be done before reusing them.
I've no history yet with my '16 Stingray, but with previous cars, I ran dedicated rotors/pads for track days only. Once the caliper bolts were removed, I would carefully chase the treads with the correct size tap and die, and reapply blue thread locker. Never had a problem.
I've no history yet with my '16 Stingray, but with previous cars, I ran dedicated rotors/pads for track days only. Once the caliper bolts were removed, I would carefully chase the treads with the correct size tap and die, and reapply blue thread locker. Never had a problem.
I’ve had mine on and off 8 times already. 4 Track days, 9k miles. I personally am going to replace every 10 times, as I swap out rotors way to often. I’ve had zero issues so far. Please note, I’m not recommending this. Just sharing data.
If they are not "Torque to yield" bolts, they can be reused with the appropriate thread locker. An inspection of the bolts looking for any cracks or damage should be done before reusing them.
Elmer
This. If they are not torque to yeild why would you need to replace them?
If there was a safety risk to it GM would require it be done during a warranty job (for which the dealership would get paid). Dealers make money off warranty jobs, and in my experience, are eager to do so. My service advisor has always gone above & beyond for me.
The page below is about remounting the FRONT caliper, and cleaning the old Loctite off the bolts and the threads the bolts screw into. Then it says to apply fresh Loctite and let it cure, then screw in the bolt and torque it to 162 lb-ft:
The page below is for remounting the REAR caliper, and curiously it doesn't have any info about cleaning the bolts or applying Loctite. It just says "Install the brake caliper bolts...and tighten to...89 lb-ft":
11-16-2017, 10:26 AM
OBVIOUSLY you don't want anti seize on the caliper bolts
