2017 Grand Sport Clicking
#21
Advanced
If I remember correctly, my '18 GS did that since it was pretty much new. I did nothing about it for about 1800 miles. Couple of days back, I had to remove the wheels to bleed the brakes. After bleeding, just put the wheels back on (no cleaning of mating surface ) and torqued the lug nuts to 100 ft-lb. The clicking is completely gone. It has been about 150 miles since then and the clicking hasn't returned.
#22
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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Looked for something interfering and sure enough, the plastic brake ducts and brake cooling air defector in the GS wheel came very close to a wheel weight on the very inner edge. Trimmed the plastic a small amount a few times. Mostly gone but still slight noise until recently, when it stopped.
Just changed oil at 1 year and had the car jacked up. Sure enough that wheel weight was warn away on the very outer edge! Whatever was hitting slightly wore it away and/or it wore as well! Not much clearance around those front GS tires, inner wheel wells, plastic air dusts etc! The air deflector goes into the wheel. I had checked the wheel clearance with the car jacked but then the wheel hangs down. Had not tried to jack it up under the "A" frame with the wheel at full right lock. Not much room to get a jack in that space. The sound is gone now!
Definitely would try the GM solution of removing the wheel and cleaning the interface surfaces. Torque in 3 steps. I did that initially but no help. Now that I have confirmed it is something hitting that wheel weight can understand it had nothing to do with the wheel contact.
Last edited by JerryU; 05-09-2018 at 09:41 AM.
#23
Advanced
If I remember correctly, my '18 GS did that since it was pretty much new. I did nothing about it for about 1800 miles. Couple of days back, I had to remove the wheels to bleed the brakes. After bleeding, just put the wheels back on (no cleaning of mating surface ) and torqued the lug nuts to 100 ft-lb. The clicking is completely gone. It has been about 150 miles since then and the clicking hasn't returned.
#24
Advanced
One way to differentiate tire chatter/hop with the clicking noise is that you can physically feel the car vibrate/jerk in case of tire chatter/hop. But for the clicking noise, you just hear snapping metallic noise without any vibration/jerk that you can feel.
#25
Melting Slicks
When its cold I get wheel hop. When hot I get the clicking.
#26
Advanced
Over the last two months, I've had to take out the wheels a number of times. The clicking disappears for a few days after every time I attach the wheels and torque them down. This is the case with stock wheels as well as aftermarket wheels. The clicking gradually comes back and it is annoying as hell!
#27
Intermediate
Over the last two months, I've had to take out the wheels a number of times. The clicking disappears for a few days after every time I attach the wheels and torque them down. This is the case with stock wheels as well as aftermarket wheels. The clicking gradually comes back and it is annoying as hell!
#28
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It was loud initially but when I just changed oil could see that wheel weight is warn on the top outer edge ~1/8 inch! Initially had trimmed the air duct and diverter plastic that are in that area. That helped but something still is hitting that wheel weight. It is one very small click per wheel revolution. Either the plastic or weight will wear enough to fully stop!
Last edited by JerryU; 06-07-2018 at 10:11 AM.
#29
Mine is a very rhythmic ( as though it were one click per revolution) that sounds like its coming from the back.Someone brought it to my attention when I was pulling through the pits after driving on track. I noticed it when a friend was driving my car on a go kart/autocross track. I was standing on the side of the track and every time he drove around a right or left turn it sounded like a rock in the tire but louder .
#30
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Also without a load on the wheel it is somewhat unusual to hear a bearing but that sounds like what it could well be! There are inner and outer bearings. Sounds like you need a trip to the dealer.
#31
I didn't not hear a clicking noise. I heard wind noise, gear shifting, some trans noise from gears, exhaust, but no clicking.
#32
Burning Brakes
Ernie
#33
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My 2016 Z06 does the same thing, left front as well. Cleaning the wheel/rotor-hat mating surfaces did not stop the clicking. I can hear the noise with the wheel off and while turning the rotor by hand just as you describe. The clicking is much more rapid than once per revolution and I think it's related to the pads passing over the slots in the rotor. Slightly backing the pads off of the rotor (using a screwdriver to push the pads back and compress the pistons slightly) stopped the noise when the rotor was turned by hand. I "dressed" the edges of the pad's friction material with sandpaper, relubed the edges and back of the pad's backing plate, and reinstalled everything -- no fix; noise is there as before. Why only on certain wheels and cars? ...I have no idea.
Ernie
Ernie
Wonder if it could be some pad build-up on parts of the rotor? Reminded of the squeal I had with the OEM pads on my 2014 Z51. Bedded the pads as per the owner’s manual for tracking using 5 or 6 agreesive stops from 60 mph to 15 NOT the 25 the Owner’s Manual states are needed if you are going to track. Squealing stopped. (Note put Carbotech 1521 Pads on my 2014 and now on my GrandSport to reduce dusting, which they do about 85%, and have never heard a squeal or any noise with them.
Recently read that with hi-performace pads you you need to use the brakes very agressivly periodically to keep pad material on the rotors uniform. Also the square “O” rings on the brake pistons are supposed to pull the pads back everso slighly so they should not contact the rotor.. That pad layer on the rotors is (supposed to be) very thin.
Last edited by JerryU; 11-19-2018 at 08:01 AM.
#35
Thanks for the comments, I'm glad to hear it's just more of an annoyance than anything serious since this is my track car. I'm do to have the rotors changed the next time I have my pads replaced, It will be interesting to see if the noise stops. I'll keep you posted....
#36
Burning Brakes
Very interesting, thanks for the detail.
Wonder if it could be some pad build-up on parts of the rotor? Reminded of the squeal I had with the OEM pads on my 2014 Z51. Bedded the pads as per the owner’s manual for tracking using 5 or 6 agreesive stops from 60 mph to 15 NOT the 25 the Owner’s Manual states are needed if you are going to track. Squealing stopped. (Note put Carbotech 1521 Pads on my 2014 and now on my GrandSport to reduce dusting, which they do about 85%, and have never heard a squeal or any noise with them.
Recently read that with hi-performace pads you you need to use the brakes very agressively periodically to keep pad material on the rotors uniform. Also the square “O” rings on the brake pistons are supposed to pull the pads back everso slighly so they should not contact the rotor.. That pad layer on the rotors is (supposed to be) very thin.
Thanks for the comments, I'm glad to hear it's just more of an annoyance than anything serious since this is my track car. I'm do to have the rotors changed the next time I have my pads replaced, It will be interesting to see if the noise stops. I'll keep you posted....
Ernie
#37
Just and update. Had the car out on the track last weekend and just as suddenly as the clicking started it disappeared after my first session. I think the problem was pretty much as everybody said, dirt build up on the rotor. After some good hard braking it was gone. Since the car sees a lot of track duty you would think it wouldn't get any dirt build up but I guess doesn't matter.
#38
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Just and update. Had the car out on the track last weekend and just as suddenly as the clicking started it disappeared after my first session. I think the problem was pretty much as everybody said, dirt build up on the rotor. After some good hard braking it was gone. Since the car sees a lot of track duty you would think it wouldn't get any dirt build up but I guess doesn't matter.
One article mentioned with racing type pads that it was important to periodically use the brakes aggressively to maintain that uniform layer. FWIW