Cam swap in car?
01-08-2018, 05:22 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Cam swap in car?
Seems like most shops pull the engine to do a cam swap. Any particular reason? If you change lifters, will the heads come out with the short block in place?
2016 Z06 for reference
2016 Z06 for reference
01-08-2018, 05:32 PM
#2
I do it in the car. Tuners remove the engine because the oil pan has to come off to remove the oil pump. Once the heads are off, get below and remove the mount bolts at the cross member, raise engine 2" and support at rear of pan using stand. Remove rear cradle bolts and replace with bolts 3-4" longer in the rear. Front cradle bolts (stock) can just be loosened much of the way. Once the cradle comes down, use a 4" 2x4 block and hockey puck under each engine mount and lower/remove the stand. You now have all the room in the world to remove the pan 
I don't want to brag on how fast I can do heads/cam on a z, because I'm still getting 3k to do it
John
I don't want to brag on how fast I can do heads/cam on a z, because I'm still getting 3k to do it
John
01-09-2018, 01:57 PM
#4
Former Vendor
We do ours with motor in the car.
Feel free to give us a call if needing any info
Feel free to give us a call if needing any info
Last edited by HorsePowerAddicts; 01-09-2018 at 01:57 PM.
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us3rname (12-17-2019)
01-10-2018, 07:52 PM
#5
Supporting Vendor
we don't pull the motor.
__________________
Cordes Performance Racing aka "CPR"
Owner of AZ's premier LSX/LTX motorsports shop
http://cordesperformanceracing.com/
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480-359-5914
Cordes Performance Racing aka "CPR"
Owner of AZ's premier LSX/LTX motorsports shop
http://cordesperformanceracing.com/
www.facebook.com/cordesperformanceracing.com
joe@cordesperformanceracing.com
480-359-5914
01-17-2018, 07:54 PM
#7
To be clear, I don't remove the cradle, or a single ball joint, or need to bleed brakes. It's just lowered 
07-19-2018, 10:41 AM
#10
I do it in the car. Tuners remove the engine because the oil pan has to come off to remove the oil pump. Once the heads are off, get below and remove the mount bolts at the cross member, raise engine 2" and support at rear of pan using stand. Remove rear cradle bolts and replace with bolts 3-4" longer in the rear. Front cradle bolts (stock) can just be loosened much of the way. Once the cradle comes down, use a 4" 2x4 block and hockey puck under each engine mount and lower/remove the stand. You now have all the room in the world to remove the pan
I don't want to brag on how fast I can do heads/cam on a z, because I'm still getting 3k to do it
John
I don't want to brag on how fast I can do heads/cam on a z, because I'm still getting 3k to do it
John
Many thanks, Kemah
07-19-2018, 05:48 PM
#11
Don’t know the thread pitch off hand, but you can use head studs by setting the head 1st and then screwing the studs in with an Allen bit. Sometimes you will have header flange/head stud interference so be aware of that if you use studs. I use the arp bolts and I’m happy with them. I’d also like to say that there is more room to do this on a dry sump car like z51/z06. The oil pan is bit bigger but it’s totally doable. Fireant did his a couple weeks ago this way, be sure to have the steering shaft uncoupled and rack unbolted from the cradle 1st. It’s gotta come loose to get the balancer off anyway.
John
John
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KemahGT (07-19-2018)
07-19-2018, 11:16 PM
#12
I'm Batman..
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Tech Contributor
Don’t know the thread pitch off hand, but you can use head studs by setting the head 1st and then screwing the studs in with an Allen bit. Sometimes you will have header flange/head stud interference so be aware of that if you use studs. I use the arp bolts and I’m happy with them. I’d also like to say that there is more room to do this on a dry sump car like z51/z06. The oil pan is bit bigger but it’s totally doable. Fireant did his a couple weeks ago this way, be sure to have the steering shaft uncoupled and rack unbolted from the cradle 1st. It’s gotta come loose to get the balancer off anyway.
John
John
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John Micheal Henry (07-31-2018)
07-20-2018, 01:07 AM
#13
Former Vendor
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SteenC7Z (03-07-2021)
07-20-2018, 02:49 PM
#16
Next one I do I’ll be sure to provide him with detailed pics, provided it’s not a stick with a stock clutch. At that point, you’ll want to pull the motor to do the clutch. Ant’s How-to threads are the best and no doubt help more people than he knows.
John
John
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07-20-2018, 03:36 PM
#17
I agree that those threads have helped a lot of people behind the scenes....I've learned a lot from those guides. I bet there are a lot of people like me who don't post much, but still use them as a valuable resource.
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07-22-2018, 02:22 PM
#19
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St. Jude Donor '05
Needing a converter is dependant on the size cam you run. Gearing comes next.
