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18 x 13 and 18 x 11 CCW's work great. Here's my Wife's GS with them on. They were extra's off the C6Z and work perfect. I put the C7 TPMS sensors in. Lot's of tire choices now.
I've been researching this subject myself and the front 18x11 seems to be pretty unanimous. On the rear it seems like most go with 18x12.5 but others running 18x13. I'm still in the process of deciding what to do.
18 x 13 and 18 x 11 CCW's work great. Here's my Wife's GS with them on. They were extra's off the C6Z and work perfect. I put the C7 TPMS sensors in. Lot's of tire choices now.
I've been researching this subject myself and the front 18x11 seems to be pretty unanimous. On the rear it seems like most go with 18x12.5 but others running 18x13. I'm still in the process of deciding what to do.
If you contact them they will know what you need. I dont have the offsets. These just happened to be straight off our C6Z and work great! I use the same size tires now on both cars. 315/30/18 f and 345/35/18 r.
If I was buying new I would get the TS12'S. I believe they are lighter AND stronger.
THe TS12’s are the top CCW wheel for track use (based on weight and strength). CCW confirmed this with me over the phone. I have the TS12’s in Blue and love them. I’m also running the 315/345 combo with R7’s. 18”x11” with 18”x13”.
I was looking at Signature SV103's or SV107's. They have some recommended fitments for the C7 wide body on their website with 18x11 and 18x13 being one of them.
Since we're looking for best wheel setup, I'd highly recommend that you also get the knurled bead option. This substantially reduces the chances of tires spinning on the wheel, which is an issue with wide high traction tires.
My first set is CCW TS12s. I think they're the best wheels for the job in terms of strength. No other wheel comes close to CCW wheels in terms of load ratings (3000 lbs vs. 2100 or so on other brands), but unfortunately, they don't have the knurled bead option.
Due to this, and after having heavy vibrations at high speed with Hoosier R7s due to tires spinning on the wheel and becoming inbalanced, I went with B.C. Forged for my second set (Signature is also the same manufacturer). They're a bit cheaper yet than CCWs, and provide the knurled bead option. I still saw a few inches of tire movement even with the knurled beads, but it didn't spin enough to make me feel like I'm about to knock the hubs out of the car : )
Knurled bead
B.C. Forged RZ39 on my Z51 (18x10.5 ET52, 18.11 ET79; I'd recommend ET76 for rears for narrow body)
CCW TS12s at 18x10.5 ET51, 19x11.5 ET83
P.S. For serious track duty, I'd highly recommend 18x12.5 instead of 18x13 (for wide body), which usually interferes with control arm, liner, or the fender. It's not worth it, in my opinion.
P.S. For serious track duty, I'd highly recommend 18x12.5 instead of 18x13 (for wide body), which usually interferes with control arm, liner, or the fender. It's not worth it, in my opinion.
I have heard this before and very good advice!!
For whatever reason those extra wheels off the C6Z don't have any clearance issues on the C7GS but that may just be luck. None of the three sets that came with the C6Z do for that matter.
My biggest issues with clearance have come trying to run too tall a tire on the rear so I stopped doing that. Happened when I tried to run tall take off slicks (31/71's) I was getting for a great price and it didn't work out as well as I had hoped. The Hoosier's have never had a clearance issue inside or out.
These can be good track wheel options...But when it really gets down to it, The only American wheel you will see in Professional racing.. IMSA, Pirelli World Challenge, and VLN in Europe is Forgeline... We are the only wheel being homologated by Chevrolet, Ford and Panoz for their GT4 Global Platform At least take a look at our options... We can make the right set up for the performance you are looking for. We can also service the wheels here in the states and our delivery is about 4 weeks... Please let me know if you have any questions... And our Motorsport pricing is very competitive...
I am looking for two fronts for another car. What's the best way to get in contact for a quote and purchase?
Race teams and Pro's do not have all the money ....They have very tight budgets... But they have to use the right equipment. Proven equipment.. Our Motorsport pricing can be very competitive I will PM my number and we can talk about options,,
If I was do do it again I would go with 12.5” as opposed to 13” in the rear. The extra width does not seem worth the extra hassle of install.
I am curious now why none of my wheels have any clearance issues or am I just missing it? How noticeable is it?
I jack the car up, wheels come off, CCW 18 x 13's go on. Nothing hits the wheel anywhere except where the hub meets the wheel and no rubbing inside or out.
How much less backspace do you think would you need for clearance? If you ran 8 3/4" would it clear without changing the width of the wheel?
Now I am curious what the backspacing is so I am going to measure them. lol!!
I am curious now why none of my wheels have any clearance issues or am I just missing it? How noticeable is it?
I jack the car up, wheels come off, CCW 18 x 13's go on. Nothing hits the wheel anywhere except where the hub meets the wheel and no rubbing inside or out.
How much less backspace do you think would you need for clearance? If you ran 8 3/4" would it clear without changing the width of the wheel?
Now I am curious what the backspacing is so I am going to measure them. lol!!
The rubbing happens under load, and I'm sure it would also depend on the compound and the width/height of the tire. In other words, I don't think it necessarily rub in every tire setup.
The rubbing happens under load, and I'm sure it would also depend on the compound and the width/height of the tire. In other words, I don't think it necessarily rub in every tire setup.
Ok but the way I understood it when the words are used "worth the extra hassle of the install" is that there is some kind of installation clearance issue? I was wondering if I am just missing it or I do not have it?
I am going to look at everything more carefully now as I am really curious. I never pay much attention to wheel well liner rubbing but I am curious about that now as well.
One of the reasons to use a wider wheel is to offer better support to the sidewall of the tire. Also with a wider wheel section width and contact patch grows I believe.
Some slicks are narrow so you almost have to stretch them to get them on a 13" wheel and in that case maybe a narrower wheel is in order?
That said if you look at factory racing wheels often times they are very wide in relation to the tires mounted.
I have zero rubbing with 13” wheels and 345 R7’s. My only issues is loading the suspension when pulling the wheel as it barley contacts the upper arm when completely unloaded. It takes an extra 2 min to set a jack stand. That’s it. Slicks fit perfect on the 13” wheel!
My only issues is loading the suspension when pulling the wheel as it barley contacts the upper arm when completely unloaded.
Exactly what I thought and thank you for the clarification. It looks like your backspacing on the rear wheel is set at 9" based on the worksheet.
The wheels on the Yellow car look like they sit just a touch further out than yours and probably explains the reason they have no control arm interference even at full droop.
Anyway based on your experience I would be inclined to measure the the wheel gap at the hub when the barrel touches the control arm and change the backspace / offset by that much. Doesn't help you now but would help someone in the future. Also gives a touch wider track in the rear of the car.
02-12-2018, 06:01 PM
Best Wheel Setup of Track
