0HRE_Jurrian

If you're looking for extremely lightweight wheels, I can certainly recommend a set of HRE R101 Lightweights which are gorgeous on the C7 chassis.

C7 GS or Z06 Fitment R101 Lightweights:
19x10.5 - 18.00lbs
19x12 - 19.40lbs

Here's a set we've done in Satin Black for this Z06:

Racingswh

I was wrong. 9" backspace with no interference. Maybe the shape of the C10 barrel is different? I have TS12's as well but the bolt pattern is different so I can't test them. Barrel looks the same. No idea.

Anyway I have heard of the issue for sure so it's something to be aware of when you're buying new wheels.

CW4L

Best track rated wheels we use are forgeline gs1r, ga3r in 18” or 19” vx1r, call or text anytime! 440-915-6166

The HRE R101 is another option but the R101LW isnt warrantied for track

rb185afm

CCW warned me it would happen before I bought the wheels. And it just barley brushes. I have installed without loading the suspension, and they went on fine. I just do it for added OCD control at this point. I can turn the wheel and it puts scratches in the wheel. But does not pull metal away.

rb185afm

Some action compression shots. Car is stock ride height range, and corner balanced. I’m running -1.8 rear. Camber. You can see even at triple digits under full compression, tucks up perfect. No rubbing inside or out.

Poor-sha

I had a set of 18x11 front and 18x13 rear Finspeeds but I ended up buying a set of 18x12 rear CCWs since Finspeed was out of business and not returning calls. My issue with the 13" wide rears was at full droop where the wheel barrel would contact the upper control arm. It made no difference what size tire you ran as it was the rim that hit. The passenger side was worse than the driver side and the passenger side eventually wore a deep enough groove in the UCA that I decided to replace it. Again, this was happening when the suspension was unloaded and I think the majority of my contact was coming in T9 on Summit Main since you have the combination of high cornering force and a bump unloading the inside rear.

As others have noted, the other issue is with getting the wheels on and off since the rim will contact the UCA before the wheel is flush with the surface. I didn't even realize I was lowering the car without the wheel fully seated for nearly a year. Then one time I jacked up the rear to swap tires at the track and broke a stud trying to take a rear wheel off. After I put new studs on I learned you have to keep the suspension partially loaded when putting on or removing those wheels and it's frankly more than you might think.

I chose the 12" rear because I typically run the Pirelli 315/680-18 rear tire and while it worked, it was very stretched on the 13" rim. The 12" rear will work for everything from the 315 Pirelli to a 345 Hoosier and I know there won't be any wheel clearance issue.

As far as which brand, late last year I bought a second set of 18" track wheels. I went with Forgeline GA1R and bought them from Gerry at CW4L which was an excellent experience and he even was able to get my order rushed so I could have them in time for my last four day event at VIR. My experience with CCW was not good with multiple delays, changes to the order, and sales people leaving plus at the time they didn't offer knurled beads.

X25

Thanks for chiming in. Indeed, moral of the story is, don't get 18x13 at the rear, especially if you will try to maximize your lap times. Once you do, it will mean hitting the banks, cutting the corners sharp, and keep in mind, the banks that load the suspension also let them unload as you leave them, causing that control arm / wheel damage if you have interference. This also happened to others that I know at my local track.

If you will run 18x13, I think you should switch to coilovers which limit the droop by a big margin, so the control arm no longer interferes. However, we all know that it's not that easy with Z06/ GS, since they come with magna ride which is hard to disable.

The same story happens with Z51, too, and CCW didn't even let me know about the interference when I bought the wheels; I realized that when I had tires mounted on them and installing them on the car for the first time. It was only when I installed my first coilovers, did I fix the interference issue (I opted non-MR Z51 for this reason).

My recommendation: 18x12.5 with knurled bead and high load rating, as well as TUV, etc. approval : )

Racingswh

I have to look more carefully. There's nowhere on the wheel that shows any signs of metal to metal contact. I must be going sloooowwww!

I am doing brakes this weekend to get ready for the first event and I am going to look at the rear suspension carefully.

Poorsha do you know the back spacing on your 12" wheel?

rb185afm

This has not been true in my experience. I tend to be if not the fastest, one of the top 5 cars at any given track day. I have no contact at all on track with my 13” wide wheel bouncing off of burms. And I have put my car on 3 wheels. Not sure what else it will take to contact. Maybe I’m lucky.

CW4L

We have a set of Forgeline GA1R track rated wheels for C7Z at blowout price text or call

440-915-6166

19x10
19x12
Satin Black
Deep Cap

Poor-sha

I do not but I bet Gerry does since I bought from him. I think the amount of rear camber you run could have an effect on this as well.

Racingswh

I had wheels off and looked more carefully today as we went over the car and teched it for the first event.

At full droop the wheels DO NOT touch either the upper or lower arms on either side. Interestingly the right rear upper arm has an angular notch in it. It was an inboard mounted WHEEL WEIGHT that did the damage. The remnants of the adhesive backing for the weight are still on the wheel. Camber is set at negative 1.2 in the rear.

Interesting for that to happen to me since I haven't balanced a track wheel in over 12 years. I have found it to be a complete waste of time or money. Your wheels are out of balance after you roll through the paddock the very first time and pick up track surface "clag". People can happily disagree but I have been doing it this way for thousands of track miles without issue.

Unfortunately my guys who used to mount my tires for me sometimes did it out of habit. I now have a new tire machine and I will do it myself so it won't happen again.

They do not touch the fender or the fender liner on either side.

18 x 11's with wheel weights maul the front brake air deflectors.

So that's the deal with my Wife's GS. 18 x 11 and 18 x 13 CCW's work great as long as they are mounted without wheel weights in the future.

Poor-sha

I think that has a lot to do with it. I'm running at least -2.0 in the rear.

What tire machine did you buy? I'm so tempted to buy one but the prices are crazy for one that will actually mount our tires.

rb185afm

Thanks! This explains why my front brake air ducts are chewed up.

I have my rear camber at -1.8 as that’s all I could get stock.

Racingswh

It's awesome. Semi Automatic. Wheels can be 13.5 wide max. Dual arm assist for dismount. Max diameter for wheels is like 28" or something larger than anything I will ever own.

5 of us bought it and it sits at our friends heated garage. Tried it already with the 345/35/18 Hoosier's on the 13" wheel and it's fantastic.

My contribution is paid back in 3 events but remember I run 3 cars that all use the same size tires. I also noticed since I was having to pay for it I wasn't flipping tires as often and was throwing away lot's of tires before their time was really up.

It's not what I would call a full scale commercial unit but we did buy it brand new. Came with a balancer as well.

Behold the Atlas TC755DAA LOL!!

X25

$4945 for the combo; hmm : )
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/CO...xoCbXAQAvD_BwE

Racingswh

That's it!!

We started talking about it last year complaining about always having to schedule it and people charging us more and more all the time. Once it went to $45 each wheel per mount/dismount we knew we needed our own machine.

My friend Myles was going to buy one anyway so he let people buy in to get access to it. Lowered his cost tremendously. My buy in was $500 but I have to drive over to use it. Couldn't pass it up.

It's actually a lot of fun hanging out working on everyone's stuff, mounting tires, fixing stuff etc. Myles has built about 30-40 Porsche engines in his garage and is a wealth of knowledge. My stuff is a little out of place but they accept me anyway.

Floridamark

What trailers are you guys using? Any pics. Headed down south to pick up my new 28X8.5 this morning. Will post pics this afternoon.

Poor-sha

Did you get the balancer too? Have you tried to mount any of the dreaded run flats?

Racingswh

Yep balancer too.

Only RF's on Porsche's and I personally have never done it. Takes some doing. Sidewalls are STIFF and short making it a pain in the ***.

Hoosier's are like mounting warm butter by comparison. I might have to mount a set of tires on the factory wheels at some point and that will be my first attempt.