For procharger setup ; 160, 180 or stock TSTAT?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
For procharger setup ; 160, 180 or stock TSTAT?
I am reading about all the thermostat failures on here and its freaking me out.
do I want to run a 160 thermostat ? if thats the case should I get the mishimoto ? small rate of failure? do i need a 170 or 180 ? do i buy a mishimoto and modify it replace the bulb or do I modify my stock one with a 170 or 180 bulb ?
or do I keep the stock TSTAT? live in NJ so its not super hot but it does get toasty in the summer.
do I want to run a 160 thermostat ? if thats the case should I get the mishimoto ? small rate of failure? do i need a 170 or 180 ? do i buy a mishimoto and modify it replace the bulb or do I modify my stock one with a 170 or 180 bulb ?
or do I keep the stock TSTAT? live in NJ so its not super hot but it does get toasty in the summer.
#4
Race Director
Member Since: Jul 2007
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 10,763
Received 2,379 Likes
on
1,238 Posts
buy the LMR billet housing with 160 thermostat, set your tune properly for it and don't worry about it. everyone keeps trying to make their own or buy 30$ stats....why? spend 10 grand on FI with other supporting parts but cheap out on the device that regulates cooling your engine? ok..... I have never had an LMR unit failure.
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
buy the LMR billet housing with 160 thermostat, set your tune properly for it and don't worry about it. everyone keeps trying to make their own or buy 30$ stats....why? spend 10 grand on FI with other supporting parts but cheap out on the device that regulates cooling your engine? ok..... I have never had an LMR unit failure.
#6
Former Vendor
buy the LMR billet housing with 160 thermostat, set your tune properly for it and don't worry about it. everyone keeps trying to make their own or buy 30$ stats....why? spend 10 grand on FI with other supporting parts but cheap out on the device that regulates cooling your engine? ok..... I have never had an LMR unit failure.
We use LMR T-stats in our builds and have never had an issue.
#7
Drifting
Member Since: Oct 2013
Location: Fort McMurray Alberta
Posts: 1,746
Received 1,296 Likes
on
479 Posts
2018 C7 of Year Finalist
I had an LMR T-Stat fail... Cost me an extra $400 in troubleshooting, then was told by LMR they were aware of the issue but wouldn't replace mine because shipping was too expensive to Canada. Now I have an LMR billet housing with a stock thermostat thanks to their shitty customer service.
The following 2 users liked this post by blue_bomber697:
robert miller (02-19-2018),
typhoontaz (02-21-2018)
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
i wanna say the stock is 195F . point of changing it is when the car is tuned and heavily modded it keeps the coolant and oil temps lower which results in less timing be pulled by the computer = better track times and safer car running
#9
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: cookeville tennessee
Posts: 28,846
Received 1,762 Likes
on
1,529 Posts
buy the LMR billet housing with 160 thermostat, set your tune properly for it and don't worry about it. everyone keeps trying to make their own or buy 30$ stats....why? spend 10 grand on FI with other supporting parts but cheap out on the device that regulates cooling your engine? ok..... I have never had an LMR unit failure.
Last edited by robert miller; 02-20-2018 at 10:52 PM.
#10
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: cookeville tennessee
Posts: 28,846
Received 1,762 Likes
on
1,529 Posts
ttt
I had an LMR T-Stat fail... Cost me an extra $400 in troubleshooting, then was told by LMR they were aware of the issue but wouldn't replace mine because shipping was too expensive to Canada. Now I have an LMR billet housing with a stock thermostat thanks to their shitty customer service.
I finally got one from MMS I put it on & pulled the part off my car & sold it. Robert
Last edited by robert miller; 02-20-2018 at 10:51 PM.
The following users liked this post:
typhoontaz (02-21-2018)
#12
Drifting
I had the LMR Billet thermostat installed when LMR did my build in March of 2017. I noticed over the last 3-4 weeks coolant and oil temps were elevated, running 215-219 coolant idling and at slow speeds, also running 225-230 cruising at hwy speeds, it has always ran between 175 -199 up until then. I talked to the tech that did my build, he told me the thermostats have a high failure rate, I changed it out yesterday. The thermostat is a Murry 160, you have to trim the little tab off the seal for it to fit the housing. Coolant and oil temps are back to running cool now, nothing visibly wrong with the thermostat but I think if I were to test it with a heat gun or submerg in water at 160 or higher that it is not fully opening.
The following users liked this post:
1ccrider (03-03-2018)