black.z51.c6

First video is an overview 1/4 of the way through


second video is how to take tension off inner belt for removal


third video is overview 1/2 of the way through


fourth video is how the keyway lines up from crankshaft to ati hub


fifth video is of me walking pulley on with installation tool. My buddy is fixing his car too and needed help so i walk away for about a minute


sixth video is of the crank bolt differences i found between the oem and the replacement oem from ati (they send you one with the pulley)


seventh video is final wrap up and first start up


last video is just that i had two codes pop up from the air intake install i cleared them and all is good.

123sugey

Wow !! That is a lot of how to’s in one thread !!!!! Nice 😎

black.z51.c6

I am not a youtuber,.. I don’t know how those people do it so polished. I am a forum guy, I learn a lot here from information others post so i am just trying to help others. This was intimidating to me because i had never done it. You will need a decent amount of tools but if I can do it so can anyone.

C7/Z06 Man

I checked out the ARP/GM Damper Bolts:

* All "Dry Sump" engines (LS3,7,9/ LT1 dry sump, LT4) use the same "Long Bolt". The 'wet sump' engines use a 'shorter bolt' (per ATI tech).

So it looks like the ARP 234-2504 (long bolt) may be correct for the LT4 & the ARP 234-2503 (shorter bolt) "may be" the bolt for the "Wet Sump" LT1 engines. The (shorter bolt) will screw into the stock dry sump crank/damper from what I have been told.

* GM has a really nice heavy duty LT4 (long) Damper bolt (@$13.66) with a thick 'floating' flat washer just 'like' the ARP's flat washer. It's GM part # 11570163, the only real difference between the ARP & GM bolt is the bolt head on the GM bolt is a 6 point and the ARP has a larger/longer 12 point head. I have both damper bolts in front of me right now and from a heavy duty appearance one looks as good as the other except for the ARP 12 point bolt head. The local GM parts man says the speed shops are buying these all the time & he was out of stock at the moment.

BOTTOM LINE FOR ME: When I go to install the ATI Damper I will first hand screw the "ARP" long bolt into the 'stock' damper before removing it to make sure the long bolt will work.

PS: That ATI (GM) black damper bolt the OP used for pulling the damper on the rest of the way looks like the GM part # 11570163 bolt.

black.z51.c6

You are correct 2504 is the right part.

Internets_Ninja

Looks like you posted video #3 twice and missed posting video #4. Otherwise, good work and nice documentation.

AndreyC7

@C7/Z06 Man , I got confused. Having 2014 LT4 Z51 dry sump, do I need to replace original damper bolt with 11570163 when I install ATI 917315 - or it's already there?

black.z51.c6

Thank you, all videos can be found in my youtube profile, not a youtuber but a forum guy that wanted to take some
of the apprehension away from other people thinking of doing it.

C7/Z06 Man

I did not get a new damper bolt with my setup so I bought a new one. Not sure if you can reuse the stock bolt so I would replace it to be safe.

AndreyC7

Received my damper and it has GM bolt 11570163 in box.

AndreyC7

@black.z51.c6 What's that black headless bolt in 3rd video? Don't see it in puller kit nor ATI box.

black.z51.c6

thats the toolmto seat the new balancer… I bought a crappy one, dont do that! Spend 65 instead of 35 and it wont be a piece of sht like mine was

AndreyC7

Thanks. Can you please refer this tool (good one)? Should not be using 11570163 bolt (included) for seating?
Didn't find this in your videos.

black.z51.c6

If you go on summit racing or similar site you will find that there are 20 dollar options and 40-50 mine was bent, but it was 20 dollars. I had to thread it in backwards Because the end that was supposed to go into the motor was bent too far. 30 dollars saved wasn’t worth the stress of it. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...yABEgL7yvD_BwE

also lube The balancer and the snout of the crankshaft so it slides on better. mine was making loud popping and cracking noises as it started to seat further and further on. it was kind of scaring the **** out of me… It was fine but if I could do it over again I would’ve put more oil on it

black.z51.c6

never ever use the bolt… you won’t engage enough threads to make it not risk stripping it out. if you strip it out you have to pull the crankshaft out of the engine… F me! There is a ton of pressure on that harmonic balancer when you are seating it. It Took more effort than I expected. But hitting 230-240 ft lbs, once seated, was easier than I anticipated

AndreyC7

Thanks! Some people say I can use old bolt to seat it, don't know if it will get enough threads into crankshaft. Got it, it was bad advice.
Also found advice for metal hub to put it to oven at 250F for 20 minutes and then it slides in with no effort.

black.z51.c6

I am a toolmaker and the rule of thumb is that if you can engage the same amount of threads as the diameter of the bolt, than everything past that isn’t really holding. For example, a 1/4 inch bolt, once a 1/4 inch deep… is going to hold the same as a 1/2 inch deep….
But, I still wouldn’t take that risk, unless I did it 100 times before… again that would be a nightmare if it got stripped.

AndreyC7

Got it. That rule makes sense. Btw that cheap Amazon tool was "Crank Install Tool Harmonic Balancer Puller 551141 Compatible for GM LS & LT Engines 1997-Current (Gen 3,4&5)" https://a.co/d/4ffNTUI ? Looking for something with fast delivery.

black.z51.c6

I was, should have ordered the right one to start

black.z51.c6

Let me know back here if you end up doing it… what state are you in?