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Has my engine just taken a sh*t??

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Old 05-20-2018, 11:22 AM
  #61  
raylo
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OK, we won't ask!

Originally Posted by FYREANT
Do NOT plan to try and “bump” the engine over while you are working on it please!! Trust me!

Ant
Old 05-20-2018, 11:22 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by FYREANT
No, that will not work. If you remove the plugs, how will it hold the pressure? Do NOT plan to try and “bump” the engine over while you are working on it please!! Trust me!

Ant
I didn’t mean remove the plugs hehe, I meant just disable the ignition. Should have been clearer there.

But it yeah I don’t think the pressure idea is a good one as it would probably be easy to overcome while fiddling with the springs and then bye bye valve.

Bumping the car over until you get the piston you want to work on up to the top isn’t an awful idea though is it?
Old 05-20-2018, 11:29 AM
  #63  
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Make sure you have the ignition disabled so she doesn't try to fire! I think it would be very hard to hit them all perfectly like this, though.

Originally Posted by jimxms


Bumping the car over until you get the piston you want to work on up to the top isn’t an awful idea though is it?
Old 05-20-2018, 11:32 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by jimxms


I didn’t mean remove the plugs hehe, I meant just disable the ignition. Should have been clearer there.

But it yeah I don’t think the pressure idea is a good one as it would probably be easy to overcome while fiddling with the springs and then bye bye valve.

Bumping the car over until you get the piston you want to work on up to the top isn’t an awful idea though is it?
Its not something I would do. New head gaskets and bolts are cheap. Just pull the heads..
Old 05-20-2018, 11:36 AM
  #65  
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Or try this:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...iABEgK_1_D_BwE
Old 05-20-2018, 12:08 PM
  #66  
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You could just use rubber bands to hold the valves up. tedious but it would work. Use smaller rubber bands wrapped around and around again on the valve stem. Should be sufficient enough to keep the valves from dropping.

But if you are replacing the lifters the heads have to come off anyway and it is a mute point.
Old 05-20-2018, 12:17 PM
  #67  
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Hey, that's an idea... or maybe a fat o-ring that has an inner dimension that is very snug to the valve stem.

Originally Posted by TriPinTaZ
You could just use rubber bands to hold the valves up. tedious but it would work. Use smaller rubber bands wrapped around and around again on the valve stem. Should be sufficient enough to keep the valves from dropping.

But if you are replacing the lifters the heads have to come off anyway and it is a mute point.
Old 05-20-2018, 12:27 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by TriPinTaZ
You could just use rubber bands to hold the valves up. tedious but it would work. Use smaller rubber bands wrapped around and around again on the valve stem. Should be sufficient enough to keep the valves from dropping.

But if you are replacing the lifters the heads have to come off anyway and it is a mute point.
Originally Posted by raylo
Hey, that's an idea... or maybe a fat o-ring that has an inner dimension that is very snug to the valve stem.
Forgive me for not understanding, but how are you gonna get it around the valve to begin with? The main time this is a concern is when you are pressing the springs down to remove the retainers. There is not enough of the valve tip to put anything around and you sure around gonna get it around the valve with the spring and retainer in the way..
Old 05-20-2018, 12:32 PM
  #69  
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Yeah, it would be a challenge. I think the rubber bands could be cut, wrapped and tied. Have to think more about the o-rings... maybe not possible unless you are Houdini. In any case it would be a PITA.

Originally Posted by FYREANT
Forgive me for not understanding, but how are you gonna get it around the valve to begin with? The main time this is a concern is when you are pressing the springs down to remove the retainers. There is not enough of the valve tip to put anything around and you sure around gonna get it around the valve with the spring and retainer in the way..

Last edited by raylo; 05-20-2018 at 12:32 PM.
Old 05-20-2018, 12:36 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by FYREANT
Its not something I would do. New head gaskets and bolts are cheap. Just pull the heads..
Is pulling the heads do-able as a 1 person job without a hoist? I have no idea how heavy or awkward the heads are.

Noob question: do the exhaust manifolds need to be unbolted to get the heads out?

Also, is there much involved with disconnecting the fuel
system that runs over the top?
Old 05-20-2018, 12:56 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by jimxms


Is pulling the heads do-able as a 1 person job without a hoist? I have no idea how heavy or awkward the heads are.

Noob question: do the exhaust manifolds need to be unbolted to get the heads out?

Also, is there much involved with disconnecting the fuel
system that runs over the top?
Do not need a hoist for heads. Must unbolt manifolds. Would recommend removing the headers all together. Fuel system line can be disconnected pretty easily.

If you’ve never done anything like this before, I recommend not popping your cherry on a $70,000 vehicle. It could cost a lost to learn a few lessons!
Old 05-20-2018, 12:57 PM
  #72  
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You don't need a hoist, heads are heavy but manageable by one. Yes, exhaust manifolds need to be disconnected, part of what makes the job such a PITA. Also need to drain coolant. Fun, fun, fun.

Originally Posted by jimxms


Is pulling the heads do-able as a 1 person job without a hoist? I have no idea how heavy or awkward the heads are.

Noob question: do the exhaust manifolds need to be unbolted to get the heads out?

Also, is there much involved with disconnecting the fuel
system that runs over the top?
Old 05-20-2018, 12:59 PM
  #73  
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What he said.

Originally Posted by FYREANT
If you’ve never done anything like this before, I recommend not popping your cherry on a $70,000 vehicle. It could cost a lost to learn a few lessons!
Old 05-20-2018, 01:35 PM
  #74  
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Coolant draining is no problem really. Will all the accessories need to come off the front of the engine too? That would definitely have me biting off more than I could chew.

I’m going to have a go at cranking the engine over tomorrow and get a camera into the spark plug holes to see how easy/hard it is to get the piston where I want it. If it’s easy then I may consider doing the springs, if not then I’ll let a pro do it instead.

I assume the piston won’t travel higher than the spark plug hole? So when it’s near the hole we can assume that the valves won’t fall far enough in to get lost?
Old 05-20-2018, 01:42 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by jimxms
[left]Coolant draining is no problem really. Will all the accessories need to come off the front of the engine too? That would definitely have me biting off more than I could chew.
Anything that connects to the head. This also includes the harness bolts on the back of the heads that are a royal PITA!

Originally Posted by jimxms
I assume the piston won’t travel higher than the spark plug hole? So when it’s near the hole we can assume that the valves won’t fall far enough in to get lost?
Yes, correct.

Last edited by FYREANT; 05-20-2018 at 01:43 PM.
Old 05-20-2018, 01:43 PM
  #76  
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Only stuff has to come off is attached to the head or in the way.

You don't want to visualize piston position with a camera. Get the firing order and put the timing mark so #1 is TDC. Then work from there. Gonna be hard to do bumping the starter. Much easier if you can get a socket on the pulley and turn by hand. There might be some other way to do it but I don't know. If you must do it with the starter maybe try one of those remote starter tools to turn it over whilst you watch the timing mark.

Originally Posted by jimxms
Coolant draining is no problem really. Will all the accessories need to come off the front of the engine too? That would definitely have me biting off more than I could chew.

I’m going to have a go at cranking the engine over tomorrow and get a camera into the spark plug holes to see how easy/hard it is to get the piston where I want it. If it’s easy then I may consider doing the springs, if not then I’ll let a pro do it instead.

I assume the piston won’t travel higher than the spark plug hole? So when it’s near the hole we can assume that the valves won’t fall far enough in to get lost?

Last edited by raylo; 05-20-2018 at 01:44 PM.
Old 05-20-2018, 01:54 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by raylo
Only stuff has to come off is attached to the head or in the way.

You don't want to visualize piston position with a camera. Get the firing order and put the timing mark so #1 is TDC. Then work from there. Gonna be hard to do bumping the starter. Much easier if you can get a socket on the pulley and turn by hand. There might be some other way to do it but I don't know. If you must do it with the starter maybe try one of those remote starter tools to turn it over whilst you watch the timing mark.
From what I remember when installing the Procharger, getting to the crank bolt is a royal PITA. The steering rack has to be unbolted and from what I remember the subframe loosened and dropped a few centimetres.

Remote starter is a good idea though. It'll soon get old having to run into the car and press the clutch in every time I want to crank the car over.

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Old 05-20-2018, 01:57 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by raylo
Only stuff has to come off is attached to the head or in the way.

You don't want to visualize piston position with a camera. Get the firing order and put the timing mark so #1 is TDC. Then work from there. Gonna be hard to do bumping the starter. Much easier if you can get a socket on the pulley and turn by hand. There might be some other way to do it but I don't know. If you must do it with the starter maybe try one of those remote starter tools to turn it over whilst you watch the timing mark.
Originally Posted by jimxms
From what I remember when installing the Procharger, getting to the crank bolt is a royal PITA. The steering rack has to be unbolted and from what I remember the subframe loosened and dropped a few centimetres.

Remote starter is a good idea though. It'll soon get old having to run into the car and press the clutch in every time I want to crank the car over.
Yep, as I said a few posts ago. Can’t get to the crank bolt without pulling the rack.
Old 05-20-2018, 02:05 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by FYREANT
Forgive me for not understanding, but how are you gonna get it around the valve to begin with? The main time this is a concern is when you are pressing the springs down to remove the retainers. There is not enough of the valve tip to put anything around and you sure around gonna get it around the valve with the spring and retainer in the way..
Couldn't you use a Magnet pen?

Last edited by Internets_Ninja; 05-20-2018 at 02:06 PM.
Old 05-20-2018, 02:11 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by TriPinTaZ
Couldn't you use a Magnet pen?
Lol no. I could not see that actually working. To remove the springs, you’re going to be working on them from the top not the side. So no room to get a magnet anywhere around there.


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