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A good shop can check the rod for straightness and recondition the rod end.
The crank journal can be cut and a oversized bearing used.
The block needs to be cleaned-all oil passages must be cleaned.
You ether had oil starvation-should have damaged more than one bearing-usually.
Over rev'd the motor, check for a broken valve spring that caused the bad lifter. ( a bad re-tune or a mech. over rev with the manual trans).
Clogged injector-does the top of the piston with the bad bearing look the same as all other pistons?
A history of something bad before you got the car.
The more I think about it, the more I'm suspicious about the cars history and the possibility of a screwed oil change.
- The car was originally a demo car for Chevrolet in the UK
- It would have had its 500 mile oil change there, quite possibly by highly inexperienced techs who had NEVER once worked on a C7 before.
- The car was then sold off to a small-time dealer with 2k on the clock, who listed the car on eBay.
- The car sat around for possibly about a year before I purchased it. I know this because every panel gap was filled with moss!
- The dealer told me that HE changed the oil just before selling it to me. Yet again another chance for a major ****-up, or possibly a cover-up to prevent me from changing the oil when he had it running super thick oil to mask the minor knocking.
The only other thing I can think that could have attributed to a bent rod was that I was running a Alky methonal system. That said, I was running 100% meth so I'd think it would be almost impossible to bend a rod with just fuel? And the engine has never once bogged down on me giving the impression of too much meth, or run rich indicating the same.
is it possible the meth system valve leaked and you slightly hydro locked cyl #2 damaging the rod and bearing on a start up?
My meth nozzles are installed in a pipe that’s angled downwards towards the intercooler. Any leaking meth would pool down there, and I think it would take a substantial amount of pressure to force it back up the pipe?
My 2018 Z06 probably had same issues, we think its the oil pump valve regulator that fail... i lost oil pressure around Stavelot.
By then it only had 2 laps on track and only 2000 km
This was monday, by saturday Werner found a new GM replacement engine and installed it and it was ready for pick up sunday....
Werners engine builder said he seen this a few times, either LT4 LT1 envies survive the first 3000 miles and are rock solid, or they fail within the first few thousand miles...
My insurance company paid everything including rental car as i was on vacation
Best of luck
regards
Rune
Last edited by Z06Norway; 08-06-2018 at 04:37 AM.
Reason: typo
My 2018 Z06 probably had same issues, we think its the oil pump valve regulator that fail... i lost oil pressure around Stavelot.
By then it only had 2 laps on track and only 2000 km
This was monday, by saturday Werner found a new GM replacement engine and installed it and it was ready for pick up sunday....
Werners engine builder said he seen this a few times, either LT4 LT1 envies survive the first 3000 miles and are rock solid, or they fail within the first few thousand miles...
My insurance company paid everything including rental car as i was on vacation
Best of luck
regards
Rune
Wow that’s lucky that you got an insurance payout! I’m having to foot the entire bill for the rebuild. Kinda sucks on a car that is barely broken in!
Does the C7 give any notification (chimes etc) of low oil pressure?
As im having my engine rebuilt I’m wondering how I might verify that my oil pump valve regulator is working correctly.
Just to conclude this thread, it would seem that my C7 has had hard life prior to my ownership. I purchased it with 3000 miles on the odo, but according to the shop who rebuilt my engine, it had already been rebuilt once before ....and poorly.
They told me that the oil pump was mis-aligned (oil starvation maybe the cause?) and the oil pan had been sealed in place with excessive amounts of hard white sealant. So much had been applied that it had found its way all around the engine! Here is a picture of the oil diverter barbel. Notice the white crap on it? Apparently this was stuck to everything!
I would have a GM service department pull the VIN repair history. Curious if this was a sloppy *** GM repair...likely due to a poorly installed torque tube during a transmission and/or converter warranty issue that wiped out the crank bearings. I saw many of these scenarios a few years back and the original owners dumped the cars immediately after the GM warranty repairs.
OP here you better make sure if you use the old dry sump tank & those lines that feed the motor you better make dam sure EVERY dam part gets super clean & all that stuff. ALL it takes is one little part of metal in the wrong place to start all of this over again..Good luck with the rebuild on her. Robert
07-23-2018, 11:57 AM
