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If you are located in the Jersey area try East Coast Supercharging. They have years of experience with modified cars and they only work on GM products. They tuned my C6 after I did the engine over.
So I spent all of yesterday installing two new narrowband sensors, a new dual wideband system, Brisk plugs, Accel ceramic spark wires and a new MAF. I wish I had a new set of headers in my hand, because I pretty much uninstalled the current ones to get the new sensors in!
Took the car for a drive and it seems to be running a bit better! It still feels like the tune has a long way to go as it stalls occasionally at intersections and it surges quite badly under some part throttle circumstances. I'm beginning to wonder if the surges are because I'm still running the little Procharger proflow bypass valve which came with my P1SC1 7PSI kit. I cant imagine that can be capable of bypassing all the flow from a D1X with a small pulley.
I've got an LT5 throttlebody to install tomorrow. I'm hoping that if I just throw parts at it, one will be the magic cure
So I spent all of yesterday installing two new narrowband sensors, a new dual wideband system, Brisk plugs, Accel ceramic spark wires and a new MAF. I wish I had a new set of headers in my hand, because I pretty much uninstalled the current ones to get the new sensors in!
Took the car for a drive and it seems to be running a bit better! It still feels like the tune has a long way to go as it stalls occasionally at intersections and it surges quite badly under some part throttle circumstances. I'm beginning to wonder if the surges are because I'm still running the little Procharger proflow bypass valve which came with my P1SC1 7PSI kit. I cant imagine that can be capable of bypassing all the flow from a D1X with a small pulley.
I've got an LT5 throttlebody to install tomorrow. I'm hoping that if I just throw parts at it, one will be the magic cure
Send me another log
You need to keep an eye on your Narrow Band swings as these chinese headers caused quite the debacle with a customer whom we did an LT4 swap on... put the OEM manifold back on and the problem was solved. Flanges aren't flat or easily warp with heat, and gaskets are junk.
You need to keep an eye on your Narrow Band swings as these chinese headers caused quite the debacle with a customer whom we did an LT4 swap on... put the OEM manifold back on and the problem was solved. Flanges aren't flat or easily warp with heat, and gaskets are junk.
Yeah I'm kinda gutted that i binned my OEM headers (lack of space in garage) or I think I would have put them back on by now. I had to loosen the flanges off a bit when I installed the new narrowband sensors, and I noticed they seemed a bit warped. I am using them with OEM gaskets though so hopefully they are ok. Maybe you can give me a super sweet deal on a new set of headers
Attached is a log from the other day, let me know what you think. (BTW this is also based on a completely different tune to the original one I posted)
Yeah I'm kinda gutted that i binned my OEM headers (lack of space in garage) or I think I would have put them back on by now. I had to loosen the flanges off a bit when I installed the new narrowband sensors, and I noticed they seemed a bit warped. I am using them with OEM gaskets though so hopefully they are ok. Maybe you can give me a super sweet deal on a new set of headers
Attached is a log from the other day, let me know what you think. (BTW this is also based on a completely different tune to the original one I posted)
OK I'll take a look. Also, Black Friday sales are right around the corner and we're giving away something big again too like a Whipple, SPI kit, or trip to Vegas! lol
OK I'll take a look. Also, Black Friday sales are right around the corner and we're giving away something big again too like a Whipple, SPI kit, or trip to Vegas! lol
Yeah I've got a set of those heat shields (well the DEI titanium ones). I think they was probably just transmitting the heat straight to the spark plug boot as there was direct contact between the header and the shield.
I'm looking at a set of ceramic spark plugs right now as it looks like I'm going to have to replace them anyway.
Off topic: where did you get your Procharger inlet tube from, and are you running direct injection still on your ride?
agree with fryeant I went with kooks headers and their 3” x pipe and fit and finish was flawless. Those or ARH would solve this.
Procharger sent me that inlet tube for my F1A-94 but I upgraded to a huge green filter. And yes I use my DI and have CRFUELER Holley 2.0 port injection for secondary fueling.
agree with fryeant I went with kooks headers and their 3” x pipe and fit and finish was flawless. Those or ARH would solve this.
Procharger sent me that inlet tube for my F1A-94 but I upgraded to a huge green filter. And yes I use my DI and have CRFUELER Holley 2.0 port injection for secondary fueling.
hows your IATs? You're sucking straight engine heat. I tested this with thermocouples and air at the filter was like 130 degrees on a 90 degree day. Sadly I don't think there's another solution for that much power. Stock intake location may not be enough air.
Last edited by BrunoTheMellow; 11-11-2018 at 09:03 PM.
hows your IATs? You're sucking straight engine heat. I tested this with thermocouples and air at the filter was like 130 degrees on a 90 degree day. Sadly I don't think there's another solution for that much power. Stock intake location may not be enough air.
They are ok now b/c it's not 95 degrees outside. Plus I am just doing occasional pulls here and there. I will come up with something more cold air like with my TIG setup at some point. Still have to weld on my 46mm precision wastegate first and wrap that up. The BIG problem I had was that TINY *** K&N filter PC sent me. That caused loss in boost and idle issues. The green one made a huge difference car pulls so insanely hard noticeably different with that green filter. I also ran it without the filter and it's the same, pulls noticeably harder than the small K&N. But yeah I agree will work some cold air solution at some point.
I have a similar config with my air filter now too - but I'm running the Airraid Race air filter which is pretty much see-thru. Then when its wet out I put the sock over it.
What I'd really like to do is find out if there is a way to build an air filter box around the hood scoop, so that it can get fresh air directly from outside the car
I have a similar config with my air filter now too - but I'm running the Airraid Race air filter which is pretty much see-thru. Then when its wet out I put the sock over it.
What I'd really like to do is find out if there is a way to build an air filter box around the hood scoop, so that it can get fresh air directly from outside the car
Can you not reach the stock filter location? For a haltech style intake with custom piping?
FYI air coming out the radiator at 70 mph is pretty much exactly the average of ambient and coolant temp.
so at 90 it was between 130 and 140 degrees coming out of the radiator and into that filter.
heres what I did with my little p1sc (Procharger offers a custom pipe but I had to build one up after the fact because it was so expensive). So the legend is:
t1 is exit of radiator, hood vent.
t2 is inside the stock filter fender hole, which I proved in a previous test is 100% ambient temp.
T3 is infront of the open filter, by radiator.
T4 is behind the open filter, by alternator.
So with my filter at least I was getting fresh air from the fender hole. mind you I don't run meth. But with a filter on the driver's side with no fresh air, thats HOT air going on.
The hood scoop idea would work definitely. If you look at my open filter location, at WOT it actually dropped the hood vent temp down to ambient after 2 gears. It actually counteracts the air coming out of the radiator and pulls air in from the vent. Which is nuts considering how far from the vent it is. So if you just turn the filter towards the throttle body you might gain quite a bit of cold air.
Last edited by BrunoTheMellow; 11-12-2018 at 10:29 AM.
Here is my Manifold Air Temp which is a custom Holley Temp sensor I placed right into intake behind throttle body, giving me accurate temp of air coming right into my cylinders. The intercooler is, of course, making this low, but I agree I plan on making some custom piping and a cold air system once I get my precision wastegate TIG welded onto my charge pipe and see how much room I have left.
Can you not reach the stock filter location? For a haltech style intake with custom piping?
FYI air coming out the radiator at 70 mph is pretty much exactly the average of ambient and coolant temp.
so at 90 it was between 130 and 140 degrees coming out of the radiator and into that filter.
heres what I did with my little p1sc (Procharger offers a custom pipe but I had to build one up after the fact because it was so expensive). So the legend is:
t1 is exit of radiator, hood vent.
t2 is inside the stock filter fender hole, which I proved in a previous test is 100% ambient temp.
T3 is infront of the open filter, by radiator.
T4 is behind the open filter, by alternator.
So with my filter at least I was getting fresh air from the fender hole. mind you I don't run meth. But with a filter on the driver's side with no fresh air, thats HOT air going on.
The hood scoop idea would work definitely. If you look at my open filter location, at WOT it actually dropped the hood vent temp down to ambient after 2 gears. It actually counteracts the air coming out of the radiator and pulls air in from the vent. Which is nuts considering how far from the vent it is. So if you just turn the filter towards the throttle body you might gain quite a bit of cold air.
Can you give some info as to what couplings and sizes you used? I was going to TIG some aluminum piping but going to look for composite first, as it doesn't hold heat as much. Thanks for showing us pics and this info! Great stuff.
hows your IATs? You're sucking straight engine heat. I tested this with thermocouples and air at the filter was like 130 degrees on a 90 degree day. Sadly I don't think there's another solution for that much power. Stock intake location may not be enough air.
Bruno that's my main worry, is restricting air flow over trying to find cold air. I know those bellmouths make HUGE power, and that's sucking hot air right behind the radiator. Course that's dyno or drag stuff so you can ice and control heat somewhat, but I want to track mine and just keep it as efficient as possible. So there is a fine balance in air flow (CFM) vs heat and heat soak. The HUGE intercooler makes up for some of it but I do want to improve it. Open to suggestions.
Bruno that's my main worry, is restricting air flow over trying to find cold air. I know those bellmouths make HUGE power, and that's sucking hot air right behind the radiator. Course that's dyno or drag stuff so you can ice and control heat somewhat, but I want to track mine and just keep it as efficient as possible. So there is a fine balance in air flow (CFM) vs heat and heat soak. The HUGE intercooler makes up for some of it but I do want to improve it. Open to suggestions.
Do you run meth??? Instead of a 180 degree coupling, using two 90s to position the filter just below the vent and removing the vent ducting would grab a lot of fresh air (one 90 aims up, a tiny straight pipe and the second 90 aims it towards the passenger side). Like above mentioned. Obviously you can't do this if you ever drive it in the rain. But maybe you can have it so you can turn it 1 way or the other by just loosening 1 clamp. 2 minute job.
I used the
stock p1sc 90 rubber coupling from the supercharger,
p1sc "stage 2" intake piping cut to size (it's just a 3.5" 45 degree pipe),
4.5" to 3.5" 45 degree reducer
Stock airbox with the neck cut down to 1" long (per A&A supercharger instructions as an example)
high flow filter. BMS I think.
Last edited by BrunoTheMellow; 11-12-2018 at 06:23 PM.
11-03-2018, 03:34 PM
