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My A/C has never worked properly since i purchased the car. Even with a coolant re-charge and software updates it still blows warm in the summer! Here in the UK the summer is only hot enough to warrant A/C for about a week of the year, and even then I can just remove the top instead. Removing the A/C will also reduce a bit of weight, increase airflow to the main radiator, and get rid of some ugly lines in the engine bay.
So I want the A/C gone!
Has anyone gone down this route? My main concerns are:
1) Will the engine radiator still mount correctly without the A/C radiator?
2) Finding an accessory belt the right size with the compressor removed
3) Can all CEL codes be blanked out by HPTuners
4) Will it still blow hot air on request for cold days.
No, but something is not right. I have a convertible and live in Florida, and I promise that I can create ice in the dead of summer. The performance increase is not worth not having defroster, etc.
No, but something is not right. I have a convertible and live in Florida, and I promise that I can create ice in the dead of summer. The performance increase is not worth not having defroster, etc.
Perhaps a blend door is stuck?
I wonder if i plug in my MDI scanner if I will get any codes to do with the A/C. Blend doors sound like something tucked way behind the dashboard?
I don't think so as far as the scans, but don't quote me. I have not (thankfully) had to mess with them on mine. I know on my Hummer there are 4, they are a PITA, and if your pulling the dash to do one you do all 4.
I guess maybe google and youtube it and see what you can find out...
I don't think so as far as the scans, but don't quote me. I have not (thankfully) had to mess with them on mine. I know on my Hummer there are 4, they are a PITA, and if your pulling the dash to do one you do all 4.
I guess maybe google and youtube it and see what you can find out...
I've had a quick look, but my guess is that nobody has attempted a DIY replacement of the blend actuator on a C7 yet. Going by C6 and C5 forum posts it sounds highly likely that is what my problem is. Also, I noticed that even with A/C off and my thermostat set to cool, it is pulling in hot air, not ambient temperature air. Not sure if that is normal for the C7 or not?
If it does turn out to be a dash-out job I think I'll continue down my path of AC delete!
My A/C has never worked properly since i purchased the car. Even with a coolant re-charge and software updates it still blows warm in the summer! Here in the UK the summer is only hot enough to warrant A/C for about a week of the year, and even then I can just remove the top instead. Removing the A/C will also reduce a bit of weight, increase airflow to the main radiator, and get rid of some ugly lines in the engine bay.
So I want the A/C gone!
Has anyone gone down this route? My main concerns are:
1) Will the engine radiator still mount correctly without the A/C radiator?
2) Finding an accessory belt the right size with the compressor removed
3) Can all CEL codes be blanked out by HPTuners
4) Will it still blow hot air on request for cold days.
Thanks guys
Originally Posted by kwiksilverz28
No, but something is not right. I have a convertible and live in Florida, and I promise that I can create ice in the dead of summer. The performance increase is not worth not having defroster, etc.
Perhaps a blend door is stuck?
I haven't heard of anybody pulling the AC in their cars yet although some racers may have. I live in NC with hot summers and even with the transparent top installed the AC provides lots of cooling capacity. If the refrigerant charge is proper (not too little, not too much) then something else is wrong. Blend doors could be an issue but what about the cooling fan? Is it operating correctly when the AC is on? Do you get better interior cooling when driving at speed on a highway?
Has somebody performed the AC Performance Test defined in the Factory Service Manual?
The interior temp sensor and the sun load sensor combine to determine how much cooling is required. If the interior temp sensor has failed then the system uses default values which may not be proper for the environment your car is in. B0163.
One of the air duct temp sensors could also affect system performance. B0173, B0178, B0509, B0514, B3933. The AC clutch may be disengaged which will cause poor AC performance.
There are a bunch of other codes for other sensors and actuators but it would a fair amount of time to go through and list them all.
I haven't heard of anybody pulling the AC in their cars yet although some racers may have. I live in NC with hot summers and even with the transparent top installed the AC provides lots of cooling capacity. If the refrigerant charge is proper (not too little, not too much) then something else is wrong. Blend doors could be an issue but what about the cooling fan? Is it operating correctly when the AC is on? Do you get better interior cooling when driving at speed on a highway?
Has somebody performed the AC Performance Test defined in the Factory Service Manual?
The interior temp sensor and the sun load sensor combine to determine how much cooling is required. If the interior temp sensor has failed then the system uses default values which may not be proper for the environment your car is in. B0163.
One of the air duct temp sensors could also affect system performance. B0173, B0178, B0509, B0514, B3933. The AC clutch may be disengaged which will cause poor AC performance.
There are a bunch of other codes for other sensors and actuators but it would a fair amount of time to go through and list them all.
Bill
Thanks for all the info Bill. The fans are working when AC is on and if the system is in auto they go to full power (fighting against themselves). Cooling is no better on the highway (other than with the window open lol).
Can the ‘B’ codes be pulled wirh a normal OBD scanner, or will I need to get out my Drewtech Mongoose and work out how to use that again?
Thanks for all the info Bill. The fans are working when AC is on and if the system is in auto they go to full power (fighting against themselves). Cooling is no better on the highway (other than with the window open lol).
Can the ‘B’ codes be pulled wirh a normal OBD scanner, or will I need to get out my Drewtech Mongoose and work out how to use that again?
More than likely not able to read with an OBD scanner. 45% of the codes on a modern car can't be read by a basic OBD2 scanner. Most of the failures are in that 45%.
We've deleted A/C on two different in house builds and I have a couple customers running our A/C delete pulley. Production units are about a month out but I can make one in house in the meantime. It will still blow hot air on request.
We've deleted A/C on two different in house builds and I have a couple customers running our A/C delete pulley. Production units are about a month out but I can make one in house in the meantime. It will still blow hot air on request.
Thanks Dane, I’m assuming that the pulley is required becausing simply removing the compressor will mess up the routing around other pullies like the water pump?
If you can send me a price I’d be interested for sure.
My A/C has never worked properly since i purchased the car. Even with a coolant re-charge and software updates it still blows warm in the summer! Here in the UK the summer is only hot enough to warrant A/C for about a week of the year, and even then I can just remove the top instead. Removing the A/C will also reduce a bit of weight, increase airflow to the main radiator, and get rid of some ugly lines in the engine bay.
So I want the A/C gone!
Has anyone gone down this route? My main concerns are:
1) Will the engine radiator still mount correctly without the A/C radiator?
2) Finding an accessory belt the right size with the compressor removed
3) Can all CEL codes be blanked out by HPTuners
4) Will it still blow hot air on request for cold days.
Thanks guys
Will not effect radiator mounting and will allow better air flow thru the radiator. It will not effect heat operations at all, you will not get any CEL light or codes, finding and routing a belt with out the a/c compressor in place is going to be the bitch. The C6 cars were easy, that car had a separate belt for the a/c compressor and all you had to do was remove the belt. The LT1 camaro has a separate a/c belt, but the accessories hang different on the engines , different locations and brkts etc. I agree, remove the weight, will run cooler and gain a horsepower or 2
Radiator is out. Also removed the lines that run along the firewall (not pictured). I’m just trying to weigh up (no pun) whether to remove the compressor or just unplug it so that the clutch is disengaged and it shouldn’t rob any HP.
03-10-2019, 07:30 AM
Has anyone performed an A/C delete on the C7?
