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Here is how to change the fluid and filter on the 2014 Corvette with the A6 automatic transmission. Before you begin, you will need 7 quarts of Dexron VI ATF, a filter for the A6 and a new pan gasket. I also created some special tools to make the job easier.
Begin by raising the car and make sure that it is firmly supported. It should be level as well, as when you are finished, the fluid level will need to be checked.
Slide a large piece of cardboard under the rear of the vehicle. Crawl under the vehicle, place a drain pan under the transmission fluid level check drain plug. Next, using a 13mm socket, remove the check drain plug. This will allow some of the fluid to drain out, thus reducing the mess when the pan is actually removed. Note that GM does not place drain plugs on their automatic transmissions. After the fluid has drained, re-install the level check drain plug. Just snug it down, no need to tighten it.
The next step is to now remove the pan. Remember, it is still full of fluid, so have your large drain pan close by. Approximately 6 quarts are still in the pan, just waiting to slosh and spill all over you and your garage floor, thus the large piece of cardboard you slid under before starting this procedure. Using a 10mm socket, begin removal of the pan bolts. Begin with the four at the rear of the transmission. These are the ones that are a little difficult to remove. Yes, they can be removed without having to drop or remove anything from the vehicle. The one in the left rear corner is the worst. Figure 1 shows this bolt. Use a 10mm wrench, placed along-side the transmission to loosen this bolt, then, using your fingers, turn the bolt and then remove it.
Figure 1: Left rear pan bolt
Next, using a short depth ¼” 10mm socket and a ¼” wobble extension, remove the remaining pan bolts along the rear of the pan. These are partially obstructed by the rear crossmember, but the short socket with wobble extension will get them out. The remaining pan bolts are easy, with direct access. Now, loosen the two pan bolts, one on each side, just in front of the rear pan bolts just removed. Do not take these out, these will be the pivot bolts that allow the pan to swing down slightly as the remaining bolts are removed. Now take all of the other pan bolts out, except the two that were loosened and one at the front of the pan.
Remove the remaining bolt at the front of the pan, while holding the pan up and in place. Once the front bolt is removed, make sure that the drain pan is centered under the front edge of the pan. Allow the pan to pivot, front edge down. Fluid will pour over the front edge, hopefully into your drain pan. You did remember to put the cardboard down first, didn’t you? To further remove additional fluid, raise the pan back up and let it drop. This time with a little more speed. Do this two or three additional times, as each time gets more fluid out of the pan. It also helps slosh a little extra fluid all over the garage floor.
Now, push the pan back up to the bottom of the transmission and remove the remaining two bolts. Carefully lower the pan. Dump the remaining fluid into your drain pan. It helps to have two drain pans, one that is full of transmission fluid, and a second that can be slid in under the transmission, as fluid will continue to drip out. Figure 2 shows the transmission with the pan removed. The old filter is still installed. Yes, more fluid will spill out as the filter is removed.
Figure 2; transmission with pan removed as viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
Grasp the filter and pull it straight down. Be ready for some more fluid. Once the filter is removed, the seal can be replaced. This is optional, several do not do this, but if you want to replace the seal, note that the steel-collar filter seal is pressed in place. To remove, use a screwdriver or chisel to drive the edge of the seal in towards the center of the opening, then grasp the seal with needle-nosed pliers and pull it down and out. Be careful that the transmission case is not damaged. This sounds harder than it really is, the seal collapses rather easy.
To install the new seal, yes, you guessed it, there is a special tool. But you don’t need to buy one. You will need some 1” washers and a 1/2” bolt that is 3” to 4” long and two 1/2” nuts. Assemble the stack with the first nut screwed on so that 5/8” of the threads are still visible. Then place two or three of the washers on top of the nut. Then install the second nut and tighten. Figure 3 shows the seal installation tool.
Figure 3: Seal installation tool and the filter seal.
Now place the new seal on top of the washers and guide the seal into place. Tap on the bolt head to seat the seal.
Now lubricate the new filter pipe where it will install into the seal with clean transmission fluid. Slide the filter straight up and into place. Make sure that the large tang on top of the filter rides up in the relief area around the valve body. Don’t worry, the pan holds the filter up and in place.
Now clean out the pan. Wipe it out to remove any dirt or sludge. Mine was clean, with only some staining. Figure 4 shows the pan before cleaning out. Note the large round ring, this is the magnet, it is retained because it is a magnet (no bolts). To clean the pan, simply grab the magnet and lift it out of the pan.
There was no need to use any solvent when cleaning the pan, a good wipe-down was all that was required. This was after over 104,000 miles of driving. Don’t forget to wipe down the outside and also ensure that the edge of the pan that seals to the gasket is clean.
Figure 4: Pan after removal before cleaning.
Once the pan is clean, clean the magnet by wiping with a clean rag, be sure to remove any metal filings. Figure 5 shows the magnet, not much to it, just a simple ring.
Figure 5: Pan magnet
Re-install the magnet in the clean pan by placing it over the raised bump in the pan. Just set it in place, it’s not going anywhere. Figure 6 shows the clean pan with the magnet back in place,
Figure 6: Pan with Magnet
Now, get out the new gasket. The old one is re-usable if it is not damaged, but I always use a new one. Remember, the fluid level in the transmission is above the gasket when the vehicle is off. Place the new gasket on the pan. Note that there are two nubs on the gasket. These hold the gasket in place on the pan and in the transmission case as well. Since this is a steel gasket with rubber seals, it will stay in place. Do not use any sealer. Make sure to clean off the mating surface on the transmission case.
Carefully guide the pan into place, maintaining about ½ inch space from the bottom of the transmission. Now, at the rear, be sure that the gasket alignment nub is inserted into the corresponding hole in the case. Now, make sure that the front nub is also engaged in the correct hole in the case as well. Gently push the pan up to the bottom of the transmission. It should go all the way up to the case. If not, re-verify that the nubs are correctly engaged into their corresponding holes. Also, if the pan will not fully seat, double check that the filter is properly installed and located.
While holding the pan up against the bottom of the case, start two pan bolts, one on each side of the case. Hand-tighten these so that the pan remains in place. Now install all of the pan bolts. You can save the rear corner bolt for last. Once all the remaining bolts are installed and finger-tight, the rear corner bolt can be installed. I do this by using one finger on each hand. Guide the bolt into the hole, and then using the two fingers turn the bolt to install it and get it finger-tight.
Get out the inch torque wrench. Follow the factory torque sequence, first tightening the bolts in the prescribed order to 40 inch-pounds. Figure 7 shows the factory torque sequence. Next, repeat the sequence, again to 40 inch-pounds. You will find that the bolts that were tightened first will now seem loose. This is due to the bolts that were tightened later compressing the gasket. For the one corner bolt that is obstructed, the torque wrench cannot be used, carefully tighten using the 10mm wrench, you will have to estimate the torque value. Now, following the factory torque sequence, tighten all of the bolts to 80 inch-pounds. Repeat the procedure, as the first bolts torqued may now be not fully tightened. At this point, the pan is installed and all that remains is to fill the transmission.
Figure 7: Factory pan torque sequence
Just how does one fill the 6L80 transmission in a Corvette? Note that the factory does not have a dipstick, and if they did, where would it be accessed? This is quite common on newer vehicles. On the 6L80e Transmission, the fill hole is on the top, right corner, where a dipstick would normally be installed. There is a plug, with a lock, that can be removed, and a hose installed to then allow fluid to be pumped in. But there is an easier way. You will need a couple of items. First, a 12mm x 1.75 mm thread pitch brass fitting with a 3/8” hose barb. Figure 8 shows this.
Figure 8: 12mm x 1.75mm brass fitting with 3/8” hose barb.
Next, a ball valve with 3/8” hose barbs on both ends. This is assembled with the hose barb to create what is shown in figure 9. Do not neglect the hose clamps. You don’t want this coming apart while you are using it. Once this is assembled, the transmission will be filled, and the level will be checked by using this tool. No need to remove the fill plug on top of the transmission.
Figure 9: fill and level check tool.
Now, remove the fluid level check plug from the bottom of the transmission. Install the hose barb end of the fill and level check tool. Tighten snugly, but not too tight. Install a suitable length of 3/8” hose on the open hose barb of the ball valve. Use a hose clamp and tighten the clamp. Open the valve. Figure 10 shows the fill and level check tool installed with the fill hose connected.
Figure 10: Fill and level check tool installed.
At this point you have two options; you can use a pump and pump the fluid into the transmission, or you can use a funnel and fill the transmission. Either method works just fine. I use the funnel approach, as it is easy. The only thing to consider is that for both options, have the pump or the funnel above the transmission pan, as the last two or three quarts will take the fluid level above the fill check standpipe in the pan.
Once all 7 quarts are in. Close the ball valve (turn the handle so that it is 90 degrees in relation to the hose. Place your drain pan under the ball valve and remove the hose from the valve (don’t remove the valve just yet). Remember, there will be fluid in the hose, let it drain in the pan. Remove the hose from under the vehicle.
Start the car. With your foot on the brake, cycle the transmission through the gears. Pause in each gear to make sure that you feel the car engage reverse and then drive. You have to have the vehicle running and the transmission temperature between 86 and 112 degrees F to check the fluid level. The transmission will warm up much faster if you sit in the car with your foot firmly on the brake and the transmission in reverse or drive. You can slightly depress the gas pedal, but don’t raise the RPMs above 1000. Depending on the outside temperature, it will take approximately 5 to 10 minutes.
Once the transmission is between the checking temperature points (I shoot for 100 degrees), shift the transmission back to park and remove your foot from the brake. Roll down the window and LEAVE THE CAR RUNNING. Crawl back under the car, slide the drain pan under the fill and level check fitting and now open the ball valve. Fluid should run out. If it does not, you need to add additional fluid. Let the fluid run out until it is just dripping. Remove the fitting from the bottom of the pan and install the level check drain plug. Tighten to 18 foot-pounds. Turn the vehicle off and check for leaks.
Here is how to change the fluid and filter on the 2014 Corvette with the A6 automatic transmission. Before you begin, you will need 7 quarts of Dexron VI ATF, a filter for the A6 and a new pan gasket. I also created some special tools to make the job easier.
Begin by raising the car and make sure that it is firmly supported. It should be level as well, as when you are finished, the fluid level will need to be checked.
Slide a large piece of cardboard under the rear of the vehicle. Crawl under the vehicle, place a drain pan under the transmission fluid level check drain plug. Next, using a 13mm socket, remove the check drain plug. This will allow some of the fluid to drain out, thus reducing the mess when the pan is actually removed. Note that GM does not place drain plugs on their automatic transmissions. After the fluid has drained, re-install the level check drain plug. Just snug it down, no need to tighten it.
The next step is to now remove the pan. Remember, it is still full of fluid, so have your large drain pan close by. Approximately 6 quarts are still in the pan, just waiting to slosh and spill all over you and your garage floor, thus the large piece of cardboard you slid under before starting this procedure. Using a 10mm socket, begin removal of the pan bolts. Begin with the four at the rear of the transmission. These are the ones that are a little difficult to remove. Yes, they can be removed without having to drop or remove anything from the vehicle. The one in the left rear corner is the worst. Figure 1 shows this bolt. Use a 10mm wrench, placed along-side the transmission to loosen this bolt, then, using your fingers, turn the bolt and then remove it.
Figure 1: Left rear pan bolt
Next, using a short depth ¼” 10mm socket and a ¼” wobble extension, remove the remaining pan bolts along the rear of the pan. These are partially obstructed by the rear crossmember, but the short socket with wobble extension will get them out. The remaining pan bolts are easy, with direct access. Now, loosen the two pan bolts, one on each side, just in front of the rear pan bolts just removed. Do not take these out, these will be the pivot bolts that allow the pan to swing down slightly as the remaining bolts are removed. Now take all of the other pan bolts out, except the two that were loosened and one at the front of the pan.
Remove the remaining bolt at the front of the pan, while holding the pan up and in place. Once the front bolt is removed, make sure that the drain pan is centered under the front edge of the pan. Allow the pan to pivot, front edge down. Fluid will pour over the front edge, hopefully into your drain pan. You did remember to put the cardboard down first, didn’t you? To further remove additional fluid, raise the pan back up and let it drop. This time with a little more speed. Do this two or three additional times, as each time gets more fluid out of the pan. It also helps slosh a little extra fluid all over the garage floor.
Now, push the pan back up to the bottom of the transmission and remove the remaining two bolts. Carefully lower the pan. Dump the remaining fluid into your drain pan. It helps to have two drain pans, one that is full of transmission fluid, and a second that can be slid in under the transmission, as fluid will continue to drip out. Figure 2 shows the transmission with the pan removed. The old filter is still installed. Yes, more fluid will spill out as the filter is removed.
Figure 2; transmission with pan removed as viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
Grasp the filter and pull it straight down. Be ready for some more fluid. Once the filter is removed, the seal can be replaced. This is optional, several do not do this, but if you want to replace the seal, note that the steel-collar filter seal is pressed in place. To remove, use a screwdriver or chisel to drive the edge of the seal in towards the center of the opening, then grasp the seal with needle-nosed pliers and pull it down and out. Be careful that the transmission case is not damaged. This sounds harder than it really is, the seal collapses rather easy.
To install the new seal, yes, you guessed it, there is a special tool. But you don’t need to buy one. You will need some 1” washers and a 1/2” bolt that is 3” to 4” long and two 1/2” nuts. Assemble the stack with the first nut screwed on so that 5/8” of the threads are still visible. Then place two or three of the washers on top of the nut. Then install the second nut and tighten. Figure 3 shows the seal installation tool.
Figure 3: Seal installation tool and the filter seal.
Now place the new seal on top of the washers and guide the seal into place. Tap on the bolt head to seat the seal.
Now lubricate the new filter pipe where it will install into the seal with clean transmission fluid. Slide the filter straight up and into place. Make sure that the large tang on top of the filter rides up in the relief area around the valve body. Don’t worry, the pan holds the filter up and in place.
Now clean out the pan. Wipe it out to remove any dirt or sludge. Mine was clean, with only some staining. Figure 4 shows the pan before cleaning out. Note the large round ring, this is the magnet, it is retained because it is a magnet (no bolts). To clean the pan, simply grab the magnet and lift it out of the pan.
There was no need to use any solvent when cleaning the pan, a good wipe-down was all that was required. This was after over 104,000 miles of driving. Don’t forget to wipe down the outside and also ensure that the edge of the pan that seals to the gasket is clean.
Figure 4: Pan after removal before cleaning.
Once the pan is clean, clean the magnet by wiping with a clean rag, be sure to remove any metal filings. Figure 5 shows the magnet, not much to it, just a simple ring.
Figure 5: Pan magnet
Re-install the magnet in the clean pan by placing it over the raised bump in the pan. Just set it in place, it’s not going anywhere. Figure 6 shows the clean pan with the magnet back in place,
Figure 6: Pan with Magnet
Now, get out the new gasket. The old one is re-usable if it is not damaged, but I always use a new one. Remember, the fluid level in the transmission is above the gasket when the vehicle is off. Place the new gasket on the pan. Note that there are two nubs on the gasket. These hold the gasket in place on the pan and in the transmission case as well. Since this is a steel gasket with rubber seals, it will stay in place. Do not use any sealer. Make sure to clean off the mating surface on the transmission case.
Carefully guide the pan into place, maintaining about ½ inch space from the bottom of the transmission. Now, at the rear, be sure that the gasket alignment nub is inserted into the corresponding hole in the case. Now, make sure that the front nub is also engaged in the correct hole in the case as well. Gently push the pan up to the bottom of the transmission. It should go all the way up to the case. If not, re-verify that the nubs are correctly engaged into their corresponding holes. Also, if the pan will not fully seat, double check that the filter is properly installed and located.
While holding the pan up against the bottom of the case, start two pan bolts, one on each side of the case. Hand-tighten these so that the pan remains in place. Now install all of the pan bolts. You can save the rear corner bolt for last. Once all the remaining bolts are installed and finger-tight, the rear corner bolt can be installed. I do this by using one finger on each hand. Guide the bolt into the hole, and then using the two fingers turn the bolt to install it and get it finger-tight.
Get out the inch torque wrench. Follow the factory torque sequence, first tightening the bolts in the prescribed order to 40 inch-pounds. Figure 7 shows the factory torque sequence. Next, repeat the sequence, again to 40 inch-pounds. You will find that the bolts that were tightened first will now seem loose. This is due to the bolts that were tightened later compressing the gasket. For the one corner bolt that is obstructed, the torque wrench cannot be used, carefully tighten using the 10mm wrench, you will have to estimate the torque value. Now, following the factory torque sequence, tighten all of the bolts to 80 inch-pounds. Repeat the procedure, as the first bolts torqued may now be not fully tightened. At this point, the pan is installed and all that remains is to fill the transmission.
Figure 7: Factory pan torque sequence
Just how does one fill the 6L80 transmission in a Corvette? Note that the factory does not have a dipstick, and if they did, where would it be accessed? This is quite common on newer vehicles. On the 6L80e Transmission, the fill hole is on the top, right corner, where a dipstick would normally be installed. There is a plug, with a lock, that can be removed, and a hose installed to then allow fluid to be pumped in. But there is an easier way. You will need a couple of items. First, a 12mm x 1.75 mm thread pitch brass fitting with a 3/8” hose barb. Figure 8 shows this.
Figure 8: 12mm x 1.75mm brass fitting with 3/8” hose barb.
Next, a ball valve with 3/8” hose barbs on both ends. This is assembled with the hose barb to create what is shown in figure 9. Do not neglect the hose clamps. You don’t want this coming apart while you are using it. Once this is assembled, the transmission will be filled, and the level will be checked by using this tool. No need to remove the fill plug on top of the transmission.
Figure 9: fill and level check tool.
Now, remove the fluid level check plug from the bottom of the transmission. Install the hose barb end of the fill and level check tool. Tighten snugly, but not too tight. Install a suitable length of 3/8” hose on the open hose barb of the ball valve. Use a hose clamp and tighten the clamp. Open the valve. Figure 10 shows the fill and level check tool installed with the fill hose connected.
Figure 10: Fill and level check tool installed.
At this point you have two options; you can use a pump and pump the fluid into the transmission, or you can use a funnel and fill the transmission. Either method works just fine. I use the funnel approach, as it is easy. The only thing to consider is that for both options, have the pump or the funnel above the transmission pan, as the last two or three quarts will take the fluid level above the fill check standpipe in the pan.
Once all 7 quarts are in. Close the ball valve (turn the handle so that it is 90 degrees in relation to the hose. Place your drain pan under the ball valve and remove the hose from the valve (don’t remove the valve just yet). Remember, there will be fluid in the hose, let it drain in the pan. Remove the hose from under the vehicle.
Start the car. With your foot on the brake, cycle the transmission through the gears. Pause in each gear to make sure that you feel the car engage reverse and then drive. You have to have the vehicle running and the transmission temperature between 86 and 112 degrees F to check the fluid level. The transmission will warm up much faster if you sit in the car with your foot firmly on the brake and the transmission in reverse or drive. You can slightly depress the gas pedal, but don’t raise the RPMs above 1000. Depending on the outside temperature, it will take approximately 5 to 10 minutes.
Once the transmission is between the checking temperature points (I shoot for 100 degrees), shift the transmission back to park and remove your foot from the brake. Roll down the window and LEAVE THE CAR RUNNING. Crawl back under the car, slide the drain pan under the fill and level check fitting and now open the ball valve. Fluid should run out. If it does not, you need to add additional fluid. Let the fluid run out until it is just dripping. Remove the fitting from the bottom of the pan and install the level check drain plug. Tighten to 18 foot-pounds. Turn the vehicle off and check for leaks.
Thanks for the excellent write up Harvey White! I'm not sure how many miles are on my car currently, but it's about time to get this done as I usually try and do at least a fluid swap every 30K. Since I have the Z51, also A6, with the remote cooler do you happen to know if there are procedural differences? I assume I would need more ATF, but haven't looked up the capacity on that yet. I have added a aux trans cooler on several other cars and even a remote filter on my 240Z and SVX, which makes changing the tranny blood much easier. Too bad you still have to drop the pan to change these filters. Thanks.
How do you check the trans temperature is at about 100*F
Scan tool or use the DIC display.
If none of the above is available or works you can measure the trans pan temp at the middle bottom with a thermocouple that is properly attached. Hand held point and shoot temp gauges are not accurate in this situation.
I did find the trans oil temp on the driver display. It's lowest reading is 100*F, so I waited until it just started reading off the peg.
The rear 3 bolts are very hard to get to. I modified a 10 mm socket making it shorter and was able to torque two of the three hard to reach bolts with this 4 inch wobble extension.
Just wanted to thank Harvey for the great write up.
Got my fluid changed and it went quite smooth!
One thing I did different was removing the pan, I did not need to do the “balance on 2 bolts” and was able to remove it without any spill!
When pumping the fluid back in the pan, I put the 7 quarts but as I was adding the new fluid, I was dumping the old one in the bottles. I ended up with almost 6 full bottles of old fluid.
When I opened the fluid check tool I made with the instructions, almost a whole quart came back down into the bottle, so it evened out to what I had removed, comes to just over 6 quarts total until it started dripping for me to close the plug. And yes, my transmission temp was at about 100F.
Last but not least, you cannot shift through all gears when setting on Manual, only up to 3rd gear when you’re stopped, you get an alert on your panel “Shift Denied” not a big deal, when I went for a drive I made sure to change into the higher gears.
All is well and my old fluid was quite dark! Car does feel smoother with this change (well plus the LSD fluid, oil, new larger radiator, coolant flush.. Overall a success!
06-09-2021, 06:03 PM
2014 Automatic Transmission fluid change?
