ElCid79

Yes. Carbons only. It burns off the outer layers of adhesives preventing a gas bubble from forming between the rotor and pads.

Batman 357

I got in 25 then traffic got all over me and I had to just drive. They faded, stunk and smoked a little. Pedal started coming back a bit then I had to quit. Maybe a few ashen areas on the front pads. Not sure if I'll just go with it or try again. Going to do the track burnish in a couple of weeks.

Adam Silver05

Mission complete (I think). Took a while to figure out a road and find time. Took my 8 year old and used the counter app. The occasional car behind me couldn't figure out what to do but eventually went around. It was funny, I think they thought I was crazy or trying to race them or trying to **** them off. A taxi tried to stop me....lol

2fastnow

I think 50...... 60 MPH stops? What I think they really meant was 50 (TO) 60 MPH stops as they advised.

jvp

Incorrect. It's 50 stops. 60MPH to 0MPH. Full stop. And threshold brake so you don't activate the ABS.

2fastnow

If you search Google there is no mention of anything close to that many stops to break in ceramic or any other sport type brake system that I could find. I even called a major brake shop that installs them...they never herd that.

Werks

Oooh....Google

Even called a major brake shop......

Give youre self a big clap on the back then lol! Who cares about Google results and what a "major brake shop that (supposedly) installs them" says. What's right is right and what's not is not. Obviously based on the response you got from that "major shop" if you have CCM brakes and have questions you should probably deal with someone else lol because JVP is correct.

JVP is one of the early adopters of CCM rotors just like myself. I've been tracking with CCM rotors since 2011 and I think JVP started right around the same time. We've both gone through multiple sets of rotors over the years and "sorta kinda" have an idea of how to do things properly. The 50 stops from 60mph down to 0,threshold braking (so just enough pedal pressure before ABS kicks in) as JVP mentioned is needed to burnish your pads. This is completely different than traditional "bedding" of pads which is done via multiple stops to apply a transfer layer of pad material on the rotor surface.

"Burnishing" is basically a method of super heating the actual friction material on the brake pad in order to burn off and out gas the volatiles and adhesives used during the mixing and later molding of the individual friction mateials components into the pad shape. If you do not do this the pads will gradually out gas during hard stops when pad temperatures get elevated and that gas will form a layer between the pad surface and the rotor forcing them apart which reduces brake force. So while not absolutely needed if you just plan on putting around town in your car, if you plan on doing hard stops similar to what you would do during a spirited blast through the canyon or certainly a track day then you need to do the burnishing process in order for your brakes to work to their maximum potential.

Or you can trust what ever search you did on Google and that "major brake shop" and skip the whole process. You may then just find that the next time you try to do a panic stop to avoid hitting a car your brake pedal goes soft, your car does not slowing down as quick as normal and you run right into someone but you would have at least followed the advise of a "major brake shop" lol who I'm sure will be more than willing to pick up the expense of repairing your car for you right?

A bit of advice. This whole CCM brake technology is so new that very few people, let alone companies have very much experience with it. Those on here that have been running these brakes for a while (especially those of us that track with them regularly) have had to figure out a lot of what we talk about first hand through trial and error. Trust the people that have used the stuff for a while, treat anything else that you hear from others may they even be companies with suspicion because most of them unfortunately do not have a clue about what they are talking about.

2fastnow

Nevermind you are right. I have those brakes but I got lucky I guess

Werks

Actually I learned how to (it's spelled) "write" boring speeches way before Porsche and Ferrari were using ceramic brakes. If I'm not mistaken Ferrari did not introduce those until they came out with the 360 Challenge car which I believe was 1999 or 2000 and I'm a little older than that. In any case it's also obvious that you still do not have a clue about what you are talking about. If you know so much about the brands and carbon ceramic brakes you will also know that although all of these rotors are all made by Brembo SGL Group that the P car guys use the SGL type CCB rotors which are manufactured differently than our Brembo CCM rotors and are much more prone to damage with track use (which is why most P car guys run iron on track). Plus you will also know that both the P cars and F cars come with different pad compounds than our cars, so anything to do with what is on their cars has nothing to do with what’s on ours! If you want to compare apples to apples take a look at the Gen 5 Viper ACR recommended pad burnishing process as that car ships with our type of Brembo rotors and uses the same TMD Friction sourced Pagid and Textar brake pad compounds that our cars come with.

Just a few facts to counter your B.S, oh sorry I mean your complete lack of not only any but even one single definitive fact, or proof which I guess would make what you have written pure speculation???? We can keep on going back and forth all day if you want? Bottom line, if you do not know what you are talking about, don't talk about it. You are only steering people in the wrong direction with bad advice.

2fastnow

Okay you are right. I have the brakes in my GT500 and my Porsche...they never told me to do that. Perhaps they all ready did that at the factory. Stand corrected. When I get my Z06 I will do that, thanks

Werks

If I came across as an **** I'm sorry that was not the intent. Just trying to make sure people get correct information on things and as mentioned JVP and I found out a lot of it the hard way back 5-6 years ago when this stuff was really new to our cars. So we were really forced to research this stuff just to be able to understand what was going on with our stuff because nobody could tell us anything lol. In any case I'm not up to date on the GT500 brake's and what they are using. The PCCB's on your Porsche are a little different in that the rotors seem to be made using a courser chop of carbon fiber strands and then over the rotor friction surface a thin roughly 0.5mm thick layer of ceramic coating is applied (this is the SGL manufacturing system) which is why those rotors have an almost polished kind of shiney metalic look to them versus our CCM's which have the mottled gray look of ceramic with exposed carbon strands (Brembo manufacturing system) as can be seen in the picture posted 7-8 posts above. In any case with the PCCB's that thin ceramic surface coating tends to get stress fractures when exposed to excessive heat (like with track use) and over time starts to chip/fall of and when that starts to happen the rotors are junk. That is what happened to a lot of their track guys a few years back and with the typical P-car tax a lot of them got hit quite hard in the pocket book and will never go back to PCCB's again.

Our rotors on the otherhand last longer and seem to be a better solution for track oriented use where they will be exposed to higher temperatures but to reduce rotor wear additional brake cooling is certainly advisable. In any case though as far as the pad burnishing process is concerned, with our stuff you really want to take the time to do the 50x back to back stops. You are going to get a lot of smoke, it's going to seem like your brakes are on fire and by the end your brake pedal will go to the floor but once you are done and have gone through the cool down process (which for me means jumping on the highway right away and doing about 10 minutes on there with no brake use) you are going to find that brake performance is normally noticeably better. As I also mentione you can get away with not doing it if you are just going to putt around on the street but honestly if you are spending the money to get the best brakes possible imho you might as well put in the little bit of extra effort that it takes to make them perform the best possible.

This burninshing process should also be listed in your owners manual which I hope they have by now updated as in my 2011 Carbon Editions manual they had incorrectly listed 5x 60mph to 0mph stops instead of 50 lol!

2fastnow

^^^ as you say. but isn't it always the way something so important when you buy these complex big money machines that a simple 'remember sir to brake in your ceramic brakes' we can do it for you at no charge.
Or Never mind we'd rather bang you for a couple of grand installing new ones without you Knowing why.

Fte390

My 16 ZO6 with O7 option really mucks up my wheels with brake dust. Don't track it except for drag strip. Would ceramic pads stop the dust issue? Thanks

Tenchi

Yup, no brake dust from my carbon ceramics. The wheels are much nicer than our Z51 because of it.

airindia33

Ok so I recently bought a used Z07 with 5k miles on it. I'm 99% sure the old owner (65 yr old man) didn't burnish the brakes. I didn't really read much. Did castrol srf fluid and alignment and went to Sebring and Daytona. I've been racing for years and ran 1:58s at Daytona and 2:21s at Sebring... Brakes performed really well... Didn't do the street or track process.

Should I do it now?

ElCid79

its easy to tell. Take a look at the pads, if they have a thin white edge to a solid white color, you are good to go. If they are not burnished and you do it will improve pedal feel.

OSKI

Exactly!

thunderhound@53

I have not burnish my brakes yet, only have 1135 miles on it, think I'll wait until I log about 2500 miles before burnishing.. only drive it on weekend in fair weather..no rain..

2016 Laguna Blue 3LZ Z06 / Z07 package
1135 pamper miles..

Gary '09 C6

IMO at 1,000--1,500 miles is the right time to get this done

Questar

Just reading the new 2017 owners manual and it appears that they have added a new burnishing method for the Z06 Z07 option cars with carbon brakes. They outlined a fairly simple process for on-track burnishing that takes @ 7 laps to complete.

Trying to do the 50 stops process on the street was a real PITA so I think I'll try this on-track method for my new Z as soon as I get my breakin miles completed.