VIDEO - Hallett Motor Racing C7 Z06
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
VIDEO - Hallett Motor Racing C7 Z06
Spent yesterday at Hallett Motor Racing driving a 2015 C7 Z06. Day went well except the car kept popping out of third gear. If you watch you'll see the car is in neutral mid corner after a hard braking zones. Kept doing this all day. I get on the gas and RPMs peak until I put it back in gear. Got to the point that I reached and put it back into gear before getting on the throttle as I got used to it... I'll get it to dealer to get it fixed.
I was driving on OEM Michelin Pilot Super Sports and OEM steel rotor street pads. Best time of the day was 1:24.54 with a 150 lb passenger and a full tank of fuel. This is over a second faster than my C6Z on BFG R1 tires and race pads without a passenger. On race rubber and pads I think I'd be in the 1:20s. Car is significantly quicker than the C6Z and much easier to drive fast.
Lap times indicate no pulling of power due to heat. It was low 60 degrees and we were running 20 minute sessions. My fastest session lap times supporting this statement were:
Out lap - 1:27.39
Lap 1 - 1:26.84
Lap 2 - 1:25.19
Lap 3 - 1:25.47
Lap 4 - 1:25.23
Lap 5 - 1:24.79
Lap 6 - 1:24.54
Lap 7 - 1:24.90
Lap 8 - 1:26.59 - Intentionally slow
In lap - 2:22.37
Engine parameters
Max oil - 280 degrees
Max water - 241 degrees
Max trans - 259 degrees
Hallett is a low speed track with my max speed for the day 120.3 mph. Very hard on brakes. My pads are down to the wear indicators and are shot. This is mostly due to running the car in PTM Sport 1 to get a feel for it for the first 3 sessions. The computer does a lot of braking in Sport 1. Usage in PTM Race mode made wear acceptable.
Best to watch the video by going into settings and set at 720p HD.
Rick
P.S. The PDR camera leaves a lot to be desired..... There would be a market for an upgraded camera from an aftermarket source.
I was driving on OEM Michelin Pilot Super Sports and OEM steel rotor street pads. Best time of the day was 1:24.54 with a 150 lb passenger and a full tank of fuel. This is over a second faster than my C6Z on BFG R1 tires and race pads without a passenger. On race rubber and pads I think I'd be in the 1:20s. Car is significantly quicker than the C6Z and much easier to drive fast.
Lap times indicate no pulling of power due to heat. It was low 60 degrees and we were running 20 minute sessions. My fastest session lap times supporting this statement were:
Out lap - 1:27.39
Lap 1 - 1:26.84
Lap 2 - 1:25.19
Lap 3 - 1:25.47
Lap 4 - 1:25.23
Lap 5 - 1:24.79
Lap 6 - 1:24.54
Lap 7 - 1:24.90
Lap 8 - 1:26.59 - Intentionally slow
In lap - 2:22.37
Engine parameters
Max oil - 280 degrees
Max water - 241 degrees
Max trans - 259 degrees
Hallett is a low speed track with my max speed for the day 120.3 mph. Very hard on brakes. My pads are down to the wear indicators and are shot. This is mostly due to running the car in PTM Sport 1 to get a feel for it for the first 3 sessions. The computer does a lot of braking in Sport 1. Usage in PTM Race mode made wear acceptable.
Best to watch the video by going into settings and set at 720p HD.
Rick
P.S. The PDR camera leaves a lot to be desired..... There would be a market for an upgraded camera from an aftermarket source.
#7
Safety Car
Maybe gm could include an option but you wont get the 700+ hrs of video with the ginormous file sizes of 1080 etc. The video is plenty clear enough but keeps the files sizes manageable.
#9
Le Mans Master
65-70deg with low humidity!
We heard the ZR1's oil was about 275deg in similar conditions so same same!
The Ring has ~1000ft of elevation changes, but, we can assume similar phenomenon, I guess!?
The Ring has ~1000ft of elevation changes, but, we can assume similar phenomenon, I guess!?
Last edited by johnglenntwo; 01-18-2015 at 07:57 PM.
#10
Safety Car
Thread Starter
The Cosworth Toolbox is very impressive for downloading data and in depth analysis. Good stuff.
#11
Burning Brakes
This is some of the best data yet. Those times are quick, consistent and Hallett is a good test of brakes and cooling in a big hp car, as the bus stop is very hard on brakes and the car gets no long sections at speed to help run air through the coolers and brake ducts. Summer heat may still be an issue, but this is an impressive run in a true street car on true street tires. How many total laps at speed do you think you ran? Sounds like a set of pads may be a must to get through a weekend. Thanks for the info and running the car fast and hard.
#12
Melting Slicks
This is some of the best data yet. Those times are quick, consistent and Hallett is a good test of brakes and cooling in a big hp car, as the bus stop is very hard on brakes and the car gets no long sections at speed to help run air through the coolers and brake ducts. Summer heat may still be an issue, but this is an impressive run in a true street car on true street tires. How many total laps at speed do you think you ran? Sounds like a set of pads may be a must to get through a weekend. Thanks for the info and running the car fast and hard.
Bish
#13
Safety Car
This^^^^^
OEM pads are notorious for not lasting. I would expect switching to a PFC (if available) or Endless and brake fluid like SRF would greatly increase the life of the brake pads and be well worth the money.
#14
Safety Car
Thread Starter
As it was a last minute deal I was scrambling to get the track alignment, 15W-50 oil and brake fluid changed all on Friday.
The OEM pads performed very well with street tires and might last a weekend if you run in PTM Race mode. Me running 3 sessions in Sport1 really did a number on them. I wanted to get the feel for the car prior to going to Sport 2 and then Race.
I stress, the OEM brake system impressed me greatly. The brakes on the C5 and C6Z were terrible for track usage. These were great. No fade or long pedal all day.
PTM Race mode is the way to go for best times and pad longevity. I think a set of OEM pads might last a weekend if set to Race but it would be stretching it.
I didn't mention but tires are pretty much shot as well....
#15
I'll get it to dealer to get it fixed.
Rick,
Bring it in to South Pointe for repairs. We'll take care of you. Plus I want to see your wheels. I'd like to put some red on my wheels.
David Lowe @ South Pointe
Rick,
Bring it in to South Pointe for repairs. We'll take care of you. Plus I want to see your wheels. I'd like to put some red on my wheels.
David Lowe @ South Pointe
#16
Melting Slicks
OEM brakes and brake pads were very impressive for what they are. I switched OEM brake fluid for ATE Racing brake fluid as SRF was unavailable. I've since ordered SRF. I had NO brake issues all day. Track pad choices are limited as far as I know right know to Carbotech which I do not like and won't buy/run. I love PFC pads.
As it was a last minute deal I was scrambling to get the track alignment, 15W-50 oil and brake fluid changed all on Friday.
The OEM pads performed very well with street tires and might last a weekend if you run in PTM Race mode. Me running 3 sessions in Sport1 really did a number on them. I wanted to get the feel for the car prior to going to Sport 2 and then Race.
I stress, the OEM brake system impressed me greatly. The brakes on the C5 and C6Z were terrible for track usage. These were great. No fade or long pedal all day.
PTM Race mode is the way to go for best times and pad longevity. I think a set of OEM pads might last a weekend if set to Race but it would be stretching it.
I didn't mention but tires are pretty much shot as well....
As it was a last minute deal I was scrambling to get the track alignment, 15W-50 oil and brake fluid changed all on Friday.
The OEM pads performed very well with street tires and might last a weekend if you run in PTM Race mode. Me running 3 sessions in Sport1 really did a number on them. I wanted to get the feel for the car prior to going to Sport 2 and then Race.
I stress, the OEM brake system impressed me greatly. The brakes on the C5 and C6Z were terrible for track usage. These were great. No fade or long pedal all day.
PTM Race mode is the way to go for best times and pad longevity. I think a set of OEM pads might last a weekend if set to Race but it would be stretching it.
I didn't mention but tires are pretty much shot as well....
I agree that turning of the vast majority of the electronic 'nannies' will enhance OEM pad life especially at the rear, but I bet it would still only extend their useful life to > one track weekend, but < two! Hence not a really useful gain IMHO.
Have you had a bad experience with Carbotech in the past? I've found them, at least in the 12 and 10 ranges, to be an excellent track pad.
Bish
#17
Safety Car
Thread Starter
IMHO, ATE is a relatively poor replacement for OEM brake fluid as it's boiling points, both wet and dry, are fairly low. It was great when you could buy both the blue and gold colored fluid as it made it very easy to know when to stop the fluid exchange, but that was all it was good for. Again, just my opinion!! YMMV. Motul 600 and of course SRF, (my personal favorite), would be my recommendations.
I agree that turning of the vast majority of the electronic 'nannies' will enhance OEM pad life especially at the rear, but I bet it would still only extend their useful life to > one track weekend, but < two! Hence not a really useful gain IMHO.
Have you had a bad experience with Carbotech in the past? I've found them, at least in the 12 and 10 ranges, to be an excellent track pad.
Bish
I agree that turning of the vast majority of the electronic 'nannies' will enhance OEM pad life especially at the rear, but I bet it would still only extend their useful life to > one track weekend, but < two! Hence not a really useful gain IMHO.
Have you had a bad experience with Carbotech in the past? I've found them, at least in the 12 and 10 ranges, to be an excellent track pad.
Bish
I also liked it when ATE was available as either blue or gold. Thank goodness our government is protecting us by not allowing the blue as the little bit of dye the add is not DOT approved. I used to use as the different colors indicated when you had a complete flush.
I do something some will probably frown on to ensure a complete flush with same colored fluid(s). I add 6 - 8 drops of colored food dye to the bottle/can of brake fluid prior to replacing/flushing. This little bit of dye is enough to change the color. One bottle/can I'll have red tinted fluid, the next green, etc. Works great with no observed adverse effects.
I run SRF in my race car (ASA stock car) and my C6Z. I'll be putting it in the C7Z when it arrives. Nothing compares to SRF.
For those interested, here's the boiling points for some of the fluids mentioned. I only consider the wet boiling point in choosing a brake fluid:
DRY:500F -- WET:???F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 PM-1C (new since 2006)
DRY:590F -- WET:???F --- TILTON TBR-1 ($11.95/0.25L) (new since 2006)
DRY:622F -- WET:???F --- TILTON TSR-1 ($17.95/0.25L) (new since 2006)
DRY:626F -- WET:???F --- FERODO FSF050 Super Race Brake Fluid (new since 2009)
DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated
DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE)
DRY:536F -- WET:388F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:608F -- WET:390F --- AP RACING PRF660
DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS
DRY:617F -- WET:399F --- MOTUL RBF 660
DRY:572F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600
DRY:593F -- WET:421F --- MOTUL RBF 600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610
DRY:613F -- WET:424F --- ENDLESS RF-650
DRY:635F -- WET:430F --- PROJECT MU G/FOUR 335
DRY:683F -- WET:439F --- PROSPEED RS683 (new since 2010)
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF
Also agree that the nannies eat brake pads like fat kids eat candy. If you're careful I think you might get a weekend out of a set of OEM pads with nannies off running street tires.
Regarding Carbotech, I've had terrible experience with Carbotech some years back. Spent a lot of money on them with Carbotech stringing me along even after I provided them documented proof of performance issues with their pads. I might give them another shot if somebody gave me a set to try. I still have a bad taste in my mouth due to the way they treated me AND POOR pad performance. Fool me once.....
Last edited by rikhek; 01-19-2015 at 01:43 PM.
#18
Safety Car
Thread Starter
After being told I was number one on the order list for the new Z you lied to me and told me months later I was number one on "My salesman's list, not the dealer list".
After promising to sell at MSRP when it came time to order you stated you would not sell without "market adjustment".
South Pointe management didn't even have the courtesy to return my phone calls.
If you look up scummy, bottom dwelling, sleazy new car dealer in the dictionary there's a picture of South Pointe Chevrolet.
I bought my car from Jim Glover Chevrolet. They treated me with respect and like they wanted my business. It's hard to express just how GOOD Jim Glover is and how BAD South Pointe is.
You guys suck. I let everyone who will listen just how bad you are. I'm a car guy and MANY friends/coworkers/relatives come to me for car buying advice. The first advice I give every one of them is to NOT even consider doing business with ANY of the South Pointe dealerships.
Rick
P.S. Too bad you do have Chad, the best Corvette tech in town working for you.
Last edited by rikhek; 01-19-2015 at 02:05 PM.
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samrwalker (09-29-2016)
#19
Well, I guess that says it all....
#20
Melting Slicks
Agreed, ATE is a mid level racing fluid but it's much better than the stock fill. ATE was the best available in town and since this was a spur of the moment track opportunity I went with it. It worked fine the entire day I believe due to me running street tires. With R compound tires or slicks my experience is that it would have boiled. ATE will suffice for most beginning/mid-level HPDE drivers. Advanced drivers and racers will boil it quickly.
I also liked it when ATE was available as either blue or gold. Thank goodness our government is protecting us by not allowing the blue as the little bit of dye the add is not DOT approved. I used to use as the different colors indicated when you had a complete flush.
I do something some will probably frown on to ensure a complete flush with same colored fluid(s). I add 6 - 8 drops of colored food dye to the bottle/can of brake fluid prior to replacing/flushing. This little bit of dye is enough to change the color. One bottle/can I'll have red tinted fluid, the next green, etc. Works great with no observed adverse effects.
I run SRF in my race car (ASA stock car) and my C6Z. I'll be putting it in the C7Z when it arrives. Nothing compares to SRF.
For those interested, here's the boiling points for some of the fluids mentioned. I only consider the wet boiling point in choosing a brake fluid:
DRY:500F -- WET:???F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 PM-1C (new since 2006)
DRY:590F -- WET:???F --- TILTON TBR-1 ($11.95/0.25L) (new since 2006)
DRY:622F -- WET:???F --- TILTON TSR-1 ($17.95/0.25L) (new since 2006)
DRY:626F -- WET:???F --- FERODO FSF050 Super Race Brake Fluid (new since 2009)
DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated
DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE)
DRY:536F -- WET:388F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:608F -- WET:390F --- AP RACING PRF660
DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS
DRY:617F -- WET:399F --- MOTUL RBF 660
DRY:572F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600
DRY:593F -- WET:421F --- MOTUL RBF 600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610
DRY:613F -- WET:424F --- ENDLESS RF-650
DRY:635F -- WET:430F --- PROJECT MU G/FOUR 335
DRY:683F -- WET:439F --- PROSPEED RS683 (new since 2010)
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF
Also agree that the nannies eat brake pads like fat kids eat candy. If you're careful I think you might get a weekend out of a set of OEM pads with nannies off running street tires.
Regarding Carbotech, I've had terrible experience with Carbotech some years back. Spent a lot of money on them with Carbotech stringing me along even after I provided them documented proof of performance issues with their pads. I might give them another shot if somebody gave me a set to try. I still have a bad taste in my mouth due to the way they treated me AND POOR pad performance. Fool me once.....
I also liked it when ATE was available as either blue or gold. Thank goodness our government is protecting us by not allowing the blue as the little bit of dye the add is not DOT approved. I used to use as the different colors indicated when you had a complete flush.
I do something some will probably frown on to ensure a complete flush with same colored fluid(s). I add 6 - 8 drops of colored food dye to the bottle/can of brake fluid prior to replacing/flushing. This little bit of dye is enough to change the color. One bottle/can I'll have red tinted fluid, the next green, etc. Works great with no observed adverse effects.
I run SRF in my race car (ASA stock car) and my C6Z. I'll be putting it in the C7Z when it arrives. Nothing compares to SRF.
For those interested, here's the boiling points for some of the fluids mentioned. I only consider the wet boiling point in choosing a brake fluid:
DRY:500F -- WET:???F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 PM-1C (new since 2006)
DRY:590F -- WET:???F --- TILTON TBR-1 ($11.95/0.25L) (new since 2006)
DRY:622F -- WET:???F --- TILTON TSR-1 ($17.95/0.25L) (new since 2006)
DRY:626F -- WET:???F --- FERODO FSF050 Super Race Brake Fluid (new since 2009)
DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated
DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE)
DRY:536F -- WET:388F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:608F -- WET:390F --- AP RACING PRF660
DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS
DRY:617F -- WET:399F --- MOTUL RBF 660
DRY:572F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600
DRY:593F -- WET:421F --- MOTUL RBF 600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610
DRY:613F -- WET:424F --- ENDLESS RF-650
DRY:635F -- WET:430F --- PROJECT MU G/FOUR 335
DRY:683F -- WET:439F --- PROSPEED RS683 (new since 2010)
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF
Also agree that the nannies eat brake pads like fat kids eat candy. If you're careful I think you might get a weekend out of a set of OEM pads with nannies off running street tires.
Regarding Carbotech, I've had terrible experience with Carbotech some years back. Spent a lot of money on them with Carbotech stringing me along even after I provided them documented proof of performance issues with their pads. I might give them another shot if somebody gave me a set to try. I still have a bad taste in my mouth due to the way they treated me AND POOR pad performance. Fool me once.....
Like you, I hope that PFC get a set of pads out soon for the irons, along with Endless, etc. I'm hoping that my order goes through as intended tomorrow but I'm getting the Z07 package, so its the CCM's for me.
Bish