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I had the track alignment done of my C7Z yesterday at Curry's and there were a few interesting points I thought I'd pass along.
The first is that there isn't a separate track alignment supplement like with the 2014s. I was looking for mine, couldn't find it, and after some internet searches discovered it was in the owners manual itself and that the specs have changed slightly (more rear camber) for all 2015 C7.
The second is that it appears to be easier to get more camber in the C7 Z06 than on the C7 Z51. We easily got -2.0 camber both front and rear as specified and could have gotten more. On the C7 Z51 I believe the most I got was -1.7.
Finally, the length of the tie rod ends tends to be the big limiting factor in getting a lot of camber and the correct toe. So start by lengthening the tie rod ends as much as you can, then adjust camber, and finally adjust the toe. That way you don't adjust the camber and find yourself out of tie rod end length.
I had the track alignment done of my C7Z yesterday at Curry's and there were a few interesting points I thought I'd pass along.
The first is that there isn't a separate track alignment supplement like with the 2014s. I was looking for mine, couldn't find it, and after some internet searches discovered it was in the owners manual itself and that the specs have changed slightly (more rear camber) for all 2015 C7.
The second is that it appears to be easier to get more camber in the C7 Z06 than on the C7 Z51. We easily got -2.0 camber both front and rear as specified and could have gotten more. On the C7 Z51 I believe the most I got was -1.7.
Finally, the length of the tie rod ends tends to be the big limiting factor in getting a lot of camber and the correct toe. So start by lengthening the tie rod ends as much as you can, then adjust camber, and finally adjust the toe. That way you don't adjust the camber and find yourself out of tie rod end length.
Hope this helps.
Currys in northern Virginia? Did they also check the bump steer?
2 degrees of camber on the supper sticky Cup 2s seems perfect. Camber is a double edged sword. When you have over 600 lb/ft available almost at any RPM putting the power down becomes very important. More camber will give you less tire patch straight line (at some point).
Furthermore, the double A-arm in this car seems very effective. A high static camber is very useful on old McPherson strut cars, or poorly designed McPherson struts in general.
2 degrees of camber is not just a good compromise, it's almost no compromise.
Curry's in Leesburg. We didn't check bump steer but my understanding is that is only an issue if you lower the car a lot.
Sorry to say that you were misinformed, anytime you change the angle (camber,caster) & length of the tie rod arms you changed the bump steer. How much it changed it & weather or not it will have an affect on handling I don't know...
Sorry to say that you were misinformed, anytime you change the angle (camber,caster) & length of the tie rod arms you changed the bump steer. How much it changed it & weather or not it will have an affect on handling I don't know...
OK dude. I said that was my understanding. Give them a call and ask.
The first try to get track settings right resulted in the rear caster being off and the handling was affected. Now that I got it squared away the car is much more stable.
Tadge is also using rear caster to explain why the Z didn't fare well in Motor Trend's comparison.
This car does require a specialty shop to get the alignment right. I also think the alignment gets out of whack much easier on this car than other cars. The camber shifted a bit during the first track day.
The first try to get track settings right resulted in the rear caster being off and the handling was affected. Now that I got it squared away the car is much more stable.
Tadge is also using rear caster to explain why the Z didn't fare well in Motor Trend's comparison.
This car does require a specialty shop to get the alignment right. I also think the alignment gets out of whack much easier on this car than other cars. The camber shifted a bit during the first track day.
Common side effect of eccentric bolts moving from hitting rumble strips, pot holes, etc. I've seen some people drill & put a small bolt through it so it won't move.
Common side effect of eccentric bolts moving from hitting rumble strips, pot holes, etc. I've seen some people drill & put a small bolt through it so it won't move.
Thats a good cheap idea. I had mine move already. We marked it this time but i like the idea of a small bolt.
I had the track alignment done of my C7Z yesterday at Curry's and there were a few interesting points I thought I'd pass along.
The first is that there isn't a separate track alignment supplement like with the 2014s. I was looking for mine, couldn't find it, and after some internet searches discovered it was in the owners manual itself and that the specs have changed slightly (more rear camber) for all 2015 C7.
The second is that it appears to be easier to get more camber in the C7 Z06 than on the C7 Z51. We easily got -2.0 camber both front and rear as specified and could have gotten more. On the C7 Z51 I believe the most I got was -1.7.
Finally, the length of the tie rod ends tends to be the big limiting factor in getting a lot of camber and the correct toe. So start by lengthening the tie rod ends as much as you can, then adjust camber, and finally adjust the toe. That way you don't adjust the camber and find yourself out of tie rod end length.
Hope this helps.
How much work to change camber? Do you take it to alignment shop every time you track And change it back for street?
.
I've also seen guys cut camber into their tires as well. One can assume the reason is going back & forth between street & track settings. I do not know if camber can be cut into our tires though....
Thats a good cheap idea. I had mine move already. We marked it this time but i like the idea of a small bolt.
I really don't like eccentric bolts.
I took them out of my circle track car & bought a set of "slugs" (square metal pieces with different offset holes that fit in the same slot where the eccentric bolts go) since us circle track guys bump & rub a lot. I'll take a picture & post later when I'm back at my race shop.
The first try to get track settings right resulted in the rear caster being off and the handling was affected. Now that I got it squared away the car is much more stable.
Tadge is also using rear caster to explain why the Z didn't fare well in Motor Trend's comparison.
This car does require a specialty shop to get the alignment right. I also think the alignment gets out of whack much easier on this car than other cars. The camber shifted a bit during the first track day.
Thanks, I'll go ahead and verify that. Honestly I didn't realize that the rear caster was adjustable on the C7 and I'm pretty sure it wasn't on previous gen cars so I didn't pay much attention to it. The guy doing the actual alignment work just went by what I told him since it was outside the parameters of what the alignment system said.
MustOfBeenYellow - thanks for the tip of bump steer. I'll ask about that as well but it's not something we've looked at in the past.
As far as switching back and forth on alignments is concerned, my plan is to daily drive the track alignment and see how the tire wear is. I suspect that with the occasional track duty I'll wear the tires out before the extra camber would wear the inside edges.
On my C6Z I used to switch back and forth by adding and removing washers and then resetting toe with toe plates but that car had a camber kit on it and now that it's 99% track I don't bother.
Thank you. I have a 2014 C7 and am having a devil of a time getting enough camber in the front for track alignment. This should help.
behind the a-arms (top) there are 2 washers(shims) behind each of the four bolts, in the 2014 owners manual it says not to remove washers(shims) in the 2015 manual it tells you to remove one from each bolt to get neg camber. did that myself yesterday and in the morning im getting a alignment and expect to get all neg. camber i want! we shall see.
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