DSOMonster

I was low on fluid after 4 months and wondered WTF? The fluid was still clear, but low after 3000 miles??? I filled the reservoir and it felt better, but not like it did when I first got it. I chalked it up to MAYBE the factory did not fill it enough??? After reading some of the clutch fluid threads, I decided to have it done. Here are some symptoms I experienced over the past month or 500 miles:

- Difficult to get in to 1st gear unless at a complete stop unless standing on the clutch.

- Really notchy shifts.

- Car would jerk when shifting at low RPM to normal (under 3k RPM) shifts.

- Engagement was lower on the clutch travel.

I had the dealership flush and replace the clutch fluid at my 2nd service interval. The service adviser looked at me as if I was LOONEY!

I've been using this dealership for well over 10 years having them service over 7 vehicles. The service dept. knows me well and I have asked them to perform some wacky stuff, but I guess flushing and replacing the clutch fluid at 3400 miles is a first for them! The Service Manager came out and asked if I was sure about this. After about 2 seconds of me looking at him with my WTF look, he relented and gave the GO. We laughed about it later.

Anyway, all I have to say is WOW. The clutch feels much better. The bite is right in the middle of the travel, instead of lower on the travel prior to service. No more herky, jerky when letting off the clutch in slow to normal shifts. At higher rev shifts, the shifting was still awesome before the service. Much easier to get in to the shift gates. No need to depress the pedal all the way to the floor. Even the service tech said it made worlds of difference. In fact, the Service Dept. noted in their system to recommend clutch fluid service to all Camaro and Corvette owners.

For those of you who have experienced some of the symptoms above, check your clutch fluid level. At your next service visit, have the dealer flush and replace the fluid.

-Ron

FiremanC7

Ron, Thanks for the heads up! Will check mine this evening.

BobD

TeamOGI

Is that a DIY type of repair, or would you recommend only having it done by the dealer? Also, how much did they charge you for the flush and fill?

DSOMonster

The DIY version is the Ranger method or something like that. You syringe the fluid out of the reservoir, replace with new fluid, place cap back on, pump the clutch 10 or 15 times, repeat until the fluid is crystal clear.

I just had the dealer do it since it was in for it's second service. It cost me $149.99. Money well spent.

DSOMonster

I performed the Ranger Method on my C6 several times over 8 years of ownership. I had more time back then. Between kids and work, I would gladly pay the money now, for an hour of free time.

BEZ06

Yikes!!! It takes me 25 to 30 minutes to drive to either one my local dealers, then wait for hoonose how long for them to do it.

Actually, the C6 Service Manual says to disconnect and lower the exhaust so that you can remove the CATs, then remove the tunnel plate so that you can get to the bleed valve on the clutch slave cylinder - so if the dealer does that it's gonna cost a couple hours of shop time.

I don't know what the C7 Service Manual says, but it's probably exactly the same as the C6.

When I do the Ranger method it takes me 4 to 5 minutes to do the procedure - MUCH less time than taking the car to a local dealer. And I use Prestone DOT 4, which is around $4 for a 12 ounce bottle at Walmart.

Just MHO, but for me it's a lot quicker and cheaper for me to take 5 minutes and do the job myself every couple months!!!

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DSOMonster

Wow, 4 to 5 minutes? Heck it takes me that long just to pop the damn hood.

All jokes aside, the Ranger Method took about an hour from the time I get stuff ready all the way up to clean up. I would estimate at least 10 to 13 repeat fluid swaps.

My dealership is 8 minutes away and all of our current cars have the maintenance program as part of the purchase. We normally get a loaner car even if it is for a few hours.

My time is spent differently now than 5 years ago.

Just not enough time in the day to turn wrench. Who knows, maybe when the maintenance period ends, I may go back to performing my own service. Until then, I use my time differently.

b4i4getit

The Ranger method is cosmetic only. Do not fool yourself into thinking this is the same as a real clutch fluid flush. Make sure that the dealer does not simply replace the fluid in the reservoir and tell you they flushed the system. Some dealers are known to do this and it is a waste of money. Do it right or don't do it at all.

DSOMonster

I know my Service Dept. pretty well. My Service Tech I've known over 10 years and the Vette Tech over 7 years. Both of them asked if I was sure I wanted the flush and replace job because it would cost a lot of money. They said the normal service will take care of any fluids they need to fill. I instructed them I wanted the full service and was charged accordingly. I also instructed the tech to save the old fluid so I could see the condition it was in. The brake/clutch fluid was a light caramel color but still in the consistency as the new one. Not black at all.

All I can say is the clutch feel is way better!

BEZ06

I totally disagree with that!!! The method my fellow Ranger Ranger discusses is MUCH more than "cosmetic"!!!


I agree that dropping the exhaust, removing the CATs, then removing the tunnel plate so that you can reach the bleed valve, then doing a flush by opening the bleed valve and activating the clutch is the ideal way to refresh your clutch fluid - if you don't mind paying for a couple hours of shop time.

Read the Ranger method:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...al-issues.html


You can see that the way the system works really does allow you to virtually completely refresh the fluid in the entire clutch system.

I've been doing the Ranger method since I got my first C6 in Dec '04. I've been tracking my C6 Z06 and ZR1 for many years now (more than 5000 track miles on the Z06, and probably more than 2000 on the ZR1) and I have NEVER had the slightest problem with either clutch due to the hydraulic system.

Do the Ranger method and you won't have clutch problems.

If it's too much of a problem to do it, I agree that you should take it to the dealer to have them flush the system for you.
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b4i4getit

You and many others are wasting your time. Changing the fluid in the reservoir will have little effect on the fluid in the slave. Thats not how hydraulic systems work. Sludge is heavier than oil and will remain in the slave unless a proper flush is done. Tell any hydraulic expert what you are doing and he will laugh at you.

05dsom

then why is the reservoir fluid black?

BEZ06

EXACTLY!!!!

It's black because the fluid moves back and forth in the entire system because it's a short length and low volume.

b4i4getit has been an anti-Ranger method guy for years - in many, many threads about flushing the clutch fluid using my fellow Ranger Ranger's method, b4i4getit it has been a naysayer concerning the method.

That's fine if he doesn't want to use it, but I've been using it with excellent results for more than 10 years now on 3 different C6s I've owned. The evidence is overwhelming that it works just fine if used a couple times a year on a street driven car.

In Ranger's discussion of the method he says something like "...and that's why the fluid circulates around in the clutch system". It doesn't really "circulate" because it's not a circular system, but it's such a low volume system, with a lot of that volume in the reservoir and just a small amount in the line from the reservoir to the master cylinder and the line from the mc to the slave cylinder/actuator, that it does move back and forth a lot, which is sufficient

Here's part of a post I made a number of years ago here on the forum when other members wondered how/why the method works for the clutch and why it wouldn't work for the brakes:

If anyone wants to take their car to the dealer to have them remove the exhaust/Cats and the tunnel plate in order to reach the bleed valve on the actuator, fine. It will get you clean/fresh fluid in 100% of the clutch hydraulic system. As you drive away from the dealership you'll have about 98% clean fluid after a few shifts.

However, if someone else wants to flush the clutch system using the Ranger method, it does work to get you probably 98% fresh fluid throughout the system - and that's close enough for me compared to what you get from flushing through the bleed valve.

Just MHO - YMMV!!
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b4i4getit

I don't care what method you do. If GM really thought the Ranger method was the PROPER way of clutch fluid replacement don't you think they would do it that way and save their techs a lot of unecessary work ? Tell me how you avoid the laws of physics when sludge collects in the slave ? Gravity will keep it in there. Its not going to flow up to the master. There is minimal fluid being exchanged and the bad stuff that does damage will stay in the slave. The clutch is a non return system. The Ranger method justs mixes clean fluid with older fluid at the master which dilutes the old fluid and does nothing to replace fluid in the slave. I am just trying to dispell this nonsense about changing fluid in the reservoir as being as good as a real system flush. It has a marginal effect and you saying it is 98 % is just downright fiction. Also if you were at the NCM bash there was a class taught by NCM Master Tech Paul Koemer where he discussed bleeding the clutch as being the ONLY way to do it properly. For those of you that still have concerns talk to an automotive engineer that has knowledge of how the Corvette hydraulic system works. That's where I got my information.