Intercooler Pump Cavitation & Shutdown
#41
Le Mans Master
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2019 Corvette of the Year Winner
St. Jude Donor '15
How about the Stock system actually moves the hot steamed coolant through the system and doesn't need the pumps assistance until it solidifies again. And once it reaches this state it takes three minutes to solidify again. Therefore, lowering the temperatures actually fouls up that system.
Engine radiator coolant turns to steam in the engine....this system does have to work exactly the same. It isn't seeing those temperatures. Those engineers aren't that stupid. Some have lost out to me, but, they know how to get paid!
Engine radiator coolant turns to steam in the engine....this system does have to work exactly the same. It isn't seeing those temperatures. Those engineers aren't that stupid. Some have lost out to me, but, they know how to get paid!
#42
Increasing the pressure in the system will help prevent cavitation (and raise boiling point), how to do that would be complex.
Would need a cylinder with a sliding seal on the inside placed into the system. On one side would be coolant, the other would be air that could be pressurized with an air chuck. During the vacuum bleed procedure you would want the minimum amount of air in the cylinder. After the vacuum bleed, add about 5 psi to the cylinder. This way the system is always starting with 5psi, and the pressure would go up as the system heats up. (Vacuum bleed when the system is cold)
How about putting another stock pump in the circuit? 2nd pump down by the stock reservoir? Having two pumps might solve your issues, assuming they don't both shut down at the same time.
Also, I believe that fluid cavities more readily the closer to boiling point it gets.
Would need a cylinder with a sliding seal on the inside placed into the system. On one side would be coolant, the other would be air that could be pressurized with an air chuck. During the vacuum bleed procedure you would want the minimum amount of air in the cylinder. After the vacuum bleed, add about 5 psi to the cylinder. This way the system is always starting with 5psi, and the pressure would go up as the system heats up. (Vacuum bleed when the system is cold)
How about putting another stock pump in the circuit? 2nd pump down by the stock reservoir? Having two pumps might solve your issues, assuming they don't both shut down at the same time.
Also, I believe that fluid cavities more readily the closer to boiling point it gets.
Last edited by CGZO6; 07-09-2016 at 09:21 AM.
#43
The fluid in the system is at the lowest pressure where it gets sucked into the pump. When the coolant gets warm/hot it is more likely for the fluid to cavitate at pump entry. This is why I think it would be beneficial to pre pressurize the system when cold.
Last edited by CGZO6; 07-28-2017 at 07:35 AM.
#44
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
Not sure? The pump has a PWM function, but it is not PWMed, and it has a diagnostic function, that is not connected. Empty pins in the plug for that. This is a 2015.
What a great job you guys have done!!!! I realize you have more tests to do, but i find it interesting that Tadge was quoted on this thread as saying some of the problem may be related to improper intercooler fill ie too much air in the system.
A few here have reported that GM TAC has recommended replacing a number of wiring harnesses and pumps and after the dealer did what they recommended the cars ran better and ran cooler. I wonder if they replaced the pumps with ones that don't shut off if such a thing exists. Also recall a thread on making sure the system was vacuum filled properly.
I tried to get this done at MY expense at two dealers last year. One said they didn't have the equipment and the other larger dealer tried to bleed it and said they couldn't get any more air out. I have a lot more air than what you guys are describing but the pump shutting off for that period of time is huge. Looking forward to your tests tomorrow! Your work is excellent.
A few here have reported that GM TAC has recommended replacing a number of wiring harnesses and pumps and after the dealer did what they recommended the cars ran better and ran cooler. I wonder if they replaced the pumps with ones that don't shut off if such a thing exists. Also recall a thread on making sure the system was vacuum filled properly.
I tried to get this done at MY expense at two dealers last year. One said they didn't have the equipment and the other larger dealer tried to bleed it and said they couldn't get any more air out. I have a lot more air than what you guys are describing but the pump shutting off for that period of time is huge. Looking forward to your tests tomorrow! Your work is excellent.
Increasing the pressure in the system will help prevent cavitation (and raise boiling point), how to do that would be complex.
Would need a cylinder with a sliding seal on the inside placed into the system. On one side would be coolant, the other would be air that could be pressurized with an air chuck. During the vacuum bleed procedure you would want the minimum amount of air in the cylinder. After the vacuum bleed, add about 5 psi to the cylinder. This way the system is always starting with 5psi, and the pressure would go up as the system heats up. (Vacuum bleed when the system is cold)
How about putting another stock pump in the circuit? 2nd pump down by the stock reservoir? Having two pumps might solve your issues, assuming they don't both shut down at the same time.
Also, I believe that fluid cavities more readily the closer to boiling point it gets.
Would need a cylinder with a sliding seal on the inside placed into the system. On one side would be coolant, the other would be air that could be pressurized with an air chuck. During the vacuum bleed procedure you would want the minimum amount of air in the cylinder. After the vacuum bleed, add about 5 psi to the cylinder. This way the system is always starting with 5psi, and the pressure would go up as the system heats up. (Vacuum bleed when the system is cold)
How about putting another stock pump in the circuit? 2nd pump down by the stock reservoir? Having two pumps might solve your issues, assuming they don't both shut down at the same time.
Also, I believe that fluid cavities more readily the closer to boiling point it gets.
We have our concerns with a twin pump design, not when running, but when a pump is lost. It starts to get messy if one shuts down. It also adds cost at this point, which we are trying to stay away from (for now) until we simply cannot move forward with out a redesign.
Back in the mid 2000s, Daytona prototypes would run a pressure relief valve on the coolant. No radiator cap. They ran 25-35 psi of water pressure, and pre-charged the system to 15 psi.
We can add a schrader valve, and see what effect it has, if we bump pressure up a few psi.
currently buttoning up the car, and hope to be on track before lunch.We will add the schrader valve to see what steady state, natural pressure rise is, and we can add a few psi in the pits, if we continue to have a problem.
#45
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
We would need to isolate the pressure bump, like mentioned above. We can try to adapt a shock canister, and see how much pressure we gain in the system.
#46
You could try adding a small inner tube to your expansion tank with the valve on the top. That would isolate the air in the tube from the coolant. Don't know if the inner tube would last being in the coolant tough.
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GSpeed (07-09-2016)
#47
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Thread Starter
Car is currently complete, bled naturally, and ready to go. We found that how we had filled the system prior, had allowed roughly 3oz of air. We did not vacuum fill it, nor pressurize it. Filled as best one can if he were in his garage with no tools.
Hopefully water quality remains high enough to not cavitate.
Results after lunch.
Hopefully water quality remains high enough to not cavitate.
Results after lunch.
#48
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Only 3 things I know of that cause cavitation; 1. Pump speed too high 2. Vapor caused by steam (highly unlikely) 3. Air in the system by some means.
What is water temp exiting the intercooler bricks?
What is water temperature exiting the front heat exchanger?
What is water temp exiting the intercooler bricks?
What is water temperature exiting the front heat exchanger?
#49
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#50
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Thread Starter
Pump stops when the temp spikes, and pump starts when the temp drops. Hump in the middle is the pump in shutdown mode.
#51
Hey G-man. Just want to compliment you on your level headed professionalism. You seem to have a great way of dealing with all these arm-chair /back-seat posters. You sir are a gem. You obviously accept the fact that two heads are better than one, and are truly open to anyone's suggestions, or opinions. That shows your commitment to this project. It is really exceptionally nice to see someone with such knowledge, and no real ego/attitude that usually accompanies that. My hat is off to you, and THANKS from our Z family.
#52
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
Good news and bad news:
Car ran 16 minutes straight.
Cliffs:
91* air
Water temp max 224 (still climbing 1.5*/lap)
Oil temp max 282 (climbing 2*/lap)
Trans temp max 228 ( plateaued)
Blower pump shutdown occurred 12 minutes in, 4 times as long as previously, but still reached shut down mode.
We can see that the temps begin to swing, 8 laps in, and then compound, eventually swinging 20* plus, and then shutdown mode.
We're making two changes, because the car now takes almost a full session to develop the issue.
Will update next session mid afternoon. We're running with "the drivers edge" track day guys, and very thankful they let us have run time in the fast sessions whenever we need it!
Car ran 16 minutes straight.
Cliffs:
91* air
Water temp max 224 (still climbing 1.5*/lap)
Oil temp max 282 (climbing 2*/lap)
Trans temp max 228 ( plateaued)
Blower pump shutdown occurred 12 minutes in, 4 times as long as previously, but still reached shut down mode.
We can see that the temps begin to swing, 8 laps in, and then compound, eventually swinging 20* plus, and then shutdown mode.
We're making two changes, because the car now takes almost a full session to develop the issue.
Will update next session mid afternoon. We're running with "the drivers edge" track day guys, and very thankful they let us have run time in the fast sessions whenever we need it!
Last edited by GSpeed; 07-09-2016 at 05:48 PM.
#53
Le Mans Master
In your logging do you see a spike in CTS after the intercooler pump stops, or just in IATs?
I'm wondering if the increase in IAT leads to reduced timing which leads to more heat, or does the coolant temp not track the IATs at all?
I'm wondering if the increase in IAT leads to reduced timing which leads to more heat, or does the coolant temp not track the IATs at all?
#54
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Thread Starter
We don't see any increase in engine coolant temp when this occurs. Only IAT2, and blower water temps, then a dead throttle pedal.
The next two changes are easy, the change after that, should this next run not work, will require the car to be taken down. we can't do that model change in less than 2 hours.
Will keep everyone posted
#55
my whipple system never cavitate's big bosch pump well fed by reservoir
through the cooler and into the beast, on the spill down in the circuit there is a bleed hose that brings air from the tank back up to the fill it also acts as an overfill spill down kinda smart really
through the cooler and into the beast, on the spill down in the circuit there is a bleed hose that brings air from the tank back up to the fill it also acts as an overfill spill down kinda smart really
#56
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
8 laps session 2, cavitation is better. No pump shut down.
Went right back out in the next session, and see if it'll do it again.
Went right back out in the next session, and see if it'll do it again.
Last edited by GSpeed; 07-09-2016 at 03:38 PM.
#57
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
Car completed its first full session.
Ambient 96*
Engine coolant max 221
Trans temp max 249
Oil temp
Max 279
We did a total of 23
Laps over almost 35 minutes, with a stop between sessions for me to download data, check systems, and send him on his way again.
Full report coming soon. If you have questions, ask away. Still some validation to go, and beta test it.
Ambient 96*
Engine coolant max 221
Trans temp max 249
Oil temp
Max 279
We did a total of 23
Laps over almost 35 minutes, with a stop between sessions for me to download data, check systems, and send him on his way again.
Full report coming soon. If you have questions, ask away. Still some validation to go, and beta test it.
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"Keeping You on Track!"
http://www.gspeed.com
877-512-5180
Instagram_Facebook_YouTube
GSpeed C7Z Cooling Development
2014 NASA Texas TT1 Champion
2015 NASA Texas ST1 Champion
2018 NASA TTU & TT3 National Champions
2019 NASA ST2 National Champion
2019 NASA Texas TT2 Champion
2020 SCCA Majors COTA GT2 pole sitter
2020 SCCA Trans Am Road Atlanta SGT Winner
2022 NASA National Champion ST2
2023 NASA National Champion ST2
2023 NASA National Champion TT2
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simrokkzz (03-11-2021)
#58
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Thread Starter
Would also like to add that today is 4* warmer than the last test sequences. Track temp 155, ambient 98. IAT into blower 105.
#59
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Car completed its first full session.
Ambient 96*
Engine coolant max 221
Trans temp max 249
Oil temp
Max 279
We did a total of 23
Laps over almost 35 minutes, with a stop between sessions for me to download data, check systems, and send him on his way again.
Full report coming soon. If you have questions, ask away. Still some validation to go, and beta test it.
Ambient 96*
Engine coolant max 221
Trans temp max 249
Oil temp
Max 279
We did a total of 23
Laps over almost 35 minutes, with a stop between sessions for me to download data, check systems, and send him on his way again.
Full report coming soon. If you have questions, ask away. Still some validation to go, and beta test it.
What about IATs? How are you logging boosted air temp? (sorry if I missed it)