6104696

I know that there are a zillion side skirt threads. I thought I would post my installation research and experience since I spent some time on this before deciding what to do.

I decided on ACS in carbon flash; there are many good vendors and good options so I won't go into why I chose ACS.

Got my ACS carbon flash skirts the other day. Installed them this weekend. Nice fit, nice finish, very happy.

I carefully evaluated all the installation options:

1) ACS recommends and supplies rivets. Pros, IMO: Permanent, solid, same as GM installation. Cons, IMO: Hard to remove for repaint, repair, replacement (drilling rivets can be a PITA, especially when/if the rivet starts spinning with the drill bit). Large-ish (3/16") holes to be drilled. Tough to realign if you are slightly off after drilling. Some have raised a concern that the high and concentrated pressure that a rivet puts on fiberglass could crack the glass and work it's way loose.

2) Old ACS recommendation: U-bolt kit (which they provided to me so I could evaluate the U-bolts vs. rivets). Pros: easier to remove. Cons: Gotta drill big (5/16") holes; it also seems like a lot of work to install.

3) Self-tapping screws (recommended I believe by RPI and others). Pros: small holes (drill 3/32", the screws expand the holes to 1/8" or so, for #8 screws). You have some slight movement/adjustment possibility of your first hole is off. Easy to remove. Cons: There is some question as to how long and how well self tapping screws will hold in the fiberglass. If a screw falls out while driving, you could flatten a rear tire (though I have not heard of any problems in these areas).

4) Double sided tape (WeaponX?). Pros: No drilling. Cons: the tape acts as a 1/16" or so spacer between the car and the rocker. There is a question as to how long it will hold (though I know of no complaints in this regard). Alignment is a bit tricky, and once you stick it in place, there is no adjustment possibility. I would guess that removal (after a while, anyway) would require dental floss to cut the tape, then Goof-Off or other chemical to remove the tape residue from the skirt and the rocker.

Against ACS's recommendation, I used self tapping screws in addition to the 5 GM factory screws. I just didn't feel like "committing" to the rivets. I used automotive silicone on each screw so if the threads should strip, the screws SHOULD stay adhered to the skirts rather than fall out and flatten a tire. If I notice the skirts or the screws getting loose, I can easily replace the screws with rivets, one by one, without any alignment issues.

Drilling the first hole in the body of a brand new car was a trip, of course. But once that was done, and it was in the right place and things were on track, the rest was easy.

I used 3/8" screws (stainless) with stainless washers to act as spacers, for the lower attachment points, which have little clearance with the aluminum chassis. 1/2" everywhere else.

The alignment was easy with a good set of spring clamps. I initially couldn't find my spring clamps so I tried clothespins, and though they held the skirts in place they were not sturdy enough so I picked up some more spring clamps.

Ramps were not needed. With a pair of floor jacks (with wooden homemade pucks) at the two jacking points on each side, there is plenty of room to align the skirts (and to position jackstands for safety). I used a close-quarters electric drill but probably had enough room for a regular drill.

As noted in the ACS instructions, I did have to grind some of the original holes a bit to get the factory screws back in place, but only on the passenger side. It was a piece of cake with a dremel and a router bit. The screw holes lined up perfectly on the driver side, but I had to grind one area slightly to better clear one of the undercarriage bolts.

I think that the rivets are probably the "best" installation option now that I have been through the alignment and drilling process, but I am happy that I can easily remove these if I need to and can easily replace the screws with the rivets (or bigger screws) if the screws start to fail. The screws all seemed to have a good "bite" into the fiberglass, and the silicone gives me some added protection from loosening (maybe). We'll see how they hold up to bumpy roads and high speeds. With 11 or 12 self tapping screws and 5 factory screws per side, I am not concerned about a "catastrophic" failure. If the screws get loose it will happen slowly, and I will keep an eye on it.

Anyway, that's my experience, FWIW. Not everyone will have the same experience or opinions. Very happy with ACS. Flame suit on.

SUB VETTE

Great write-up. Thanks for doing it, car looks great.

rikhek

Good write-up. I bought the ACS skirts in primer and since they are consumable pieces I painted them Satin Black with a couple rattle cans. They match the "satin" fender trim and front splitter.

I didn't give the mounting process quite as much thought as the OP. Mounted mine in less than an hour as follows.

1. Jacked car high enough to get drill under rockers.
2. Used factory bolts to hold the skirts in place.
3. Used remaining skirt holes to drill rocker holes.
4. Insert Xmas tree push pins I bought at Lowe's to secure.

Code3marine

Beautiful car

rikhek

Thanks. Looks even better in a bigger picture than provided in my Avatar.

sTz

Good write-up. There are many ways to fasten the skirts as mentioned. I used the OEM screws, rivits underneath, and tape on the rockers. So far so good.

131A

Beautiful car and great write-up, I just ordered mine today.

tail_lights

I have mine almost ready to install. Painted them Carbon Flash but it's not as metallic as the stock color, luckily they aren't in a spot that will be easily noticed either. I am covering them with 3M scotchguard film so I can hit them with a pressure washer and not worry about my paint chipping LOL. When I am ready to install I also plan on swapping to low dust brake pads, cleaning the rims barrel and all, and lowering the car on stock bolts. That should make for a fun time!!

punky

Installed mine per the instructions with supplied rivets and it was very simple and straight forward. No problems since great product.

rikhek

The rivets work great but are a pain in the *** to remove due to spinning when needing to replace or repaint due to an off track excursion or other unplanned event. I'm on my second set of skirts due to an "event". After my event all push pins held on the skirt that was destroyed. The skirt around them was shattered, however, the push pins were not the weak link as every one of them held in place.

6104696

This was my main concern about the rivets; I do consider the side skirts to be a "consumable" and expect to have to remove them for repair or replacement at some point. The push pins seems like a good idea....but do they hold the skirts tightly? What did you do for the "lower" ACS mounting holes that are close to the chassis? Not enough room for the push pins there, I think. Or did you just rely on the 5 factory screws and the 6 push pins?

rikhek

The 5 factory screws and 6 push pins are all that's need. They get the skirt as tight up against the rocker as rivets, glue or anything else and are simple to remove. I tried the expanding push pins but they didn't work in several of the holes as the hole is not deep enough to insert them all the way. There are factory components behind/above the drilled holes which limit the depth. I even tried cutting the expanding push pins down to make them shorter with no success. Also, the push pins provided a tighter fit than the expanding push pins. These are the expanding push pins that don't work in several of the holes:

ZR1Bob

I got the RPI skirts because I wanted body color ones to match my body color vents and they are good at those. As noted, RPI recommends screws, not rivets for the reasons mentioned relating to removing them. However, they don't recommend self tapping screws but regular ones that they supply and pre drilling a specific sized hole. Don says he thinks self tappers tend to make larger holes so screws could come out. Nevertheless, I have experience with self tappers so I am OK with them and that's what I used. Done carefully they should work fine but I will watch to make sure I don't see any coming out. Did not use any double sided tape but that is not a bad idea. Happy with the outcome so far. --Bob

6104696

Oops. then my options summary is incorrect. Can you post a photo of the screws (and backing nuts?) that RPI uses? Is there a link to their installation instructions? (don't post their instructions...potential copyright issues).....

davester

Appreciate your thoughtful write up! I went ACS a well and am 100% pleased with the product. I chickened out and had my dealer Hendrick's Chevrolet do the install. They charged $140, were done in an hour while I waited, and did a perfect job using the ACS rivets.

ZR1Bob

Can't be too helpful, but here is a picture of what I believe is the RPI screw, about 1/2" long Phillips head, but I am not 100% certain and I can't find the installation instructions. I am sure Don could tell you with a phone call. Their instructions recommend drilling a pilot hole (I think 1/8" but again I don't have the instructions handy) No backing nuts were included. Could not find a link on their website for any installation instructions--it would be a good idea for them to do this. --Bob

FastestBusaAround

The ACS Carbon Flash paint matches the factory paint perfectly. I would not recommend buying them other than painted from ACS. I have been in their facilities - and there is no reason to get them painted anywhere else.

6104696

Thanks Bob. Very helpful. I consider that to be a self-tapping screw; perhaps it has a different technical name, but that is essentially what I used. So I consider my understanding to be correct....but perhaps my terminology was wrong. I think RPI recommends a 3/32" pilot hole which is what I used for the #8 self tappers.


So far they are holding fine but not so many miles yet and, until I take a few rides down bumpy NY streets (whichI don't plan on doing with the Z06 any time soon), I guess I have not adequately tested the integrity of the installation.

lordofwar

nice job,now get the mudflaps to help protect the car.

6104696

I installed the GM mudflaps around the corner from the dealer on the day of delivery. Drove straight to detailer and had the rockers, etc. xpelled, and now I have the side skirts. I think I am adequately protected.

I considered the larger ACS or Apsis mud flaps, but just didn't like the way they looked (my car, my opinion). The GM flaps really help, but not as much as the bigger flaps; everything is a compromise. But the rear fender fronts (upper and lower) and the brake duct vents are xpeled so we are good to go.